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THE  LIBRARY 

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OF  CALIFORNIA 

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DANIEL  H.  BURN  HAM 

ARCHITECT 
PLANNER  OF  CITIES 


DANIEL  HUDSON  BURNHAM 

From  a  painting  by  Zorn.  1899 


DANIEL  H.  BURN  HAM 

ARCHITECT 
PLANNER.  OF    CITIES 

BY 

CHARLES     MOORE 

WITH     ILLUSTRATIONS 

VOLUME    ONE 


BOSTON     AND    NEW   YORK 

HOUGHTON  MIFFLIN  COMPANY 
A\C  A\XX1 


COPTRIGHT,    I92I,    BY   CHAKLES  UOORB 
ALL  RIGHTS  RBSKRVSO 


Ubraiy 


/JA 

V  ^1 


DEDICATED  TO 

MARGARET  SHERMAN  BURNHAM 

IN  THE  HOME  NO  LESS  THAN  IN  THE  MARKET-PLACE  THE 

SPIRIT  OF  CHICAGO  IS  WORKING  IN  AND  THROUGH 

THE  CITIZENS  TO  CREATE  THE  PERFECT  CITY 

WTHEREIN  ALL  THE  PEOPLE  MAY  LABOR 

UNDER  BEST  CONDITIONS  AND  ENJOY 

THE  TRUE  SATISFACTIONS  OF  UFE 


ir:^,4*^'>.i 


PREFACE 

THE  Centennial  Celebration  at  Philadelphia  in  1876, 
after  the  Civil  War,  developed  a  new  consciousness 
of  nationality  and  inherent  power;  and  during  the 
next  fifteen  years  the  arts,  especially  architecture  and  sculpture, 
reached  excellencies  never  before  attained  in  this  country. 

The  celebration  of  the  four  hundredth  anniversary  of  the 
discovery  of  America  by  Columbus,  the  World's  Columbian 
Exposition  at  Chicago  in  1893,  caused  our  architects  and 
landscape  architects,  our  sculptors  and  our  painters  to  work 
together  for  the  first  time.  The  spiritual  result  of  that  coopera- 
tion has  been  a  feeling  for  public  service  awakened  then  among 
the  artists  themselves.  The  eminent  material  result  was  a 
group  of  buildings,  not  only  of  individual  dignity  and  beauty, 
but  also  expressing  that  higher  beauty  which  results  from  har- 
mony in  style,  arrangement,  and  landscape  setting. 

The  Chicago  Fair  marked  a  long  advance  in  American  ap- 
preciation and  encouragement  of  the  fine  arts.  And  artists  con- 
sidered the  future  to  a  growing  extent  in  terms  of  cooperation 
and  of  public  service.  Thus  they  recognized  for  the  first  time 
the  necessity  of  some  establishment  for  the  sound  training  of 
their  successors,  who  would  be  called  upon  to  deal  with  the 
problems  and  fulfil  the  opportunities  of  increasing  wealth  and 
national  power.  The  impulse  to  plan  American  cities  for  unity, 
amenity,  and  beauty  was  born  of  the  Exposition.  So,  too,  was 
the  idea  of  establishing  at  Rome  a  school  for  training  art  stu- 
dents in  the  traditions  and  achievements  of  the  past.  The  ac- 


viii  PREFACE 

quaintances  developed  at  Chicago  stimulated  the  several  arts; 
for  the  great  majority  of  our  artists  had  some  part  in  the  work 
there,  and  came  away  with  the  satisfaction  of  success. 

The  one  man  who  from  the  beginning  realized  the  great 
possibihties  the  Fair  ofTered  for  the  encouragement  of  fine  arts 
in  America  was  Daniel  H.  Burnham.  He  selected  the  artists, 
induced  them  to  undertake  the  work  as  a  public  service,  se- 
cured to  each  a  full  opportunity  for  expression,  maintained 
harmony  among  them,  and  fought  their  battles  with  commit- 
tees and  contractors. 

Such  was  his  success  and  his  training  that  he  was  thereafter 
continuously  in  public  service.  First  he  was  called  to  lead  in 
the  replanning  and  development  of  the  National  Capital.  Then 
Cleveland  and  San  Francisco  appealed  to  him.  Next  the  Gov- 
ernment again  sought  his  aid  for  Manila  and  the  summer  cap- 
ital of  Baguio.  All  the  years  from  the  time  of  the  Fair  he  had 
been  pondering  in  his  mind  the  needs  and  possibihties  of 
Chicago.  At  last  the  chance  for  action  came.  His  abilities,  his 
prestige,  his  vision  were  given  to  his  home.  He  saw  in  his 
dreams  the  finest  commercial  city  of  the  world  standing  on  the 
shores  of  Lake  Michigan  —  the  finest  city  in  which  to  work  and 
to  live. 

To  this  end  he  planned  more  largely,  more  comprehensively, 
and  more  finely  than  any  one  had  ever  planned  before.  He 
saw  his  plans  recorded  in  such  manner  that  they  will  remain 
an  incentive  and  a  guide  to  his  own  and  to  succeeding  genera- 
tions. As  a  reward  he  lived  to  see  the  Plan  of  Chicago  under- 
taken by  the  people  of  that  city  in  a  spirit  and  on  a  scale  to  in- 
sure ultimate  accomphshment. 

These  results  were  achieved  only  by  struggles,  long,  arduous; 


PREFACE  ix 

and  often  delayed  by  temporary''  defeat.  Not  all  of  his  under- 
takings have  been  carried  out,  as  yet.  In  some  instances  things 
have  been  done  contrary  to  his  advice.  Yet  as  lessons  his 
failures  are  hardly  less  valuable  than  his  successes. 

No  one  man  alone  accomplishes  such  great  undertakings; 
nor  is  he  at  all  times  the  leader  in  the  realization  of  his  own 
ideas.  The  successful  man  owes  much  to  the  spirit  of  his  age, 
and  very  much  to  the  men  with  whom  he  is  associated.  The 
•  story  of  Mr.  Burnham's  life  is  in  part  the  story  of  many  other 
lives  that  touched  his;  of  influences  more  powerful  than  the  in- 
dividual can  command.  In  telling  the  story  every  attempt  has 
been  made  to  estimate  at  their  true  value  the  work  and  in- 
fluence of  those  who  cooperated  with  him.  It  was  a  glorious 
company  that  fought  under  his  leadership  —  McKim,  Saint- 
Gaudens,  the  Olmsteds,  Frank  Millet,  Theodore  Thomas,  are 
but  t>TDical  names.  Scarcely  an  architect  of  prominence  during 
a  quarter  of  a  century,  scarcely  a  cause  dear  to  the  profession, 
but  finds  a  place  on  these  pages.  Where  plain  words  were 
spoken  they  concern  not  individuals  but  causes;  for  in  Mr. 
Burnham's  catholic  nature  were  no  personal  animosities  — 
only  friendships. 

He  was  first  of  all  a  man,  with  all  a  man's  virtues,  and  also 
with  some  failings  —  that  are  not  cloaked.  Attempt  has  been 
made  to  disclose  enough  of  his  personal,  private  life  to  place 
him  in  true  relation  to  his  public,  professional  work;  for  there 
was  in  his  mind  no  marked  separation  between  the  two.  He 
was  essentially  the  same  man  in  home  and  office;  and  he  la- 
bored to  bring  up  his  children  as  dependable,  serviceable  mem- 
bers of  the  community.  Here  he  met  with  complete  success. 

It  is  impossible  to  acknowledge  all  the  help  given  in  the 


X  PREFACE 

preparation  of  this  book.  Many  acknowledgments  are  re- 
corded on  the  pages  themselves.  Much  of  Mr.  Burnham's 
public  career  came  under  the  observation  of  the  author,  who 
believes  that  he  knew  the  workings  of  the  Burnham  mind  well 
enough  to  insure  that  Mr.  Burnham  himself  would  not  dis- 
approve seriously  of  anything  written  herein. 

Charles  Moore 
Washington,  February,  1921 


CONTENTS 

I.  Two  Centuries  of  Burnhams,  1635-1846  1 

Responsibilities  imposed  by  ancestors  —  The  Burnhams  of 
Ipswich,  Massachusetts,  in  Puritan  days  —  Migrations  —  Be- 
ginnings of  Vermont  —  John  Burnham  delays  a  hanging  —  Burn- 
ham  Hollow  and  its  industries  —  The  Burnham  fortune  in  Eng- 
land —  Removal  to  Henderson,  New  York  —  Swedenborg's 
teachings  —  Birth  of  Daniel  Hudson  Burnham  —  Removal  to 
Chicago. 

II.  Finding  his  Feet,  1855-1875  13 

Chicago  in  its  teens  —  Edwin  Burnham  as  a  Chicago  merchant  — 
Dan  Burnham's  school  days  in  Chicago  and  Massachusetts  — 
Enlists  for  the  Civil  War  —  Mercantile  life  lacks  charm  —  Archi- 
tecture —  Fever  for  gold  —  The  disillusionments  of  Nevada  — 
Return  to  architecture  —  John  Wellborn  Root  —  Burnham  & 
Root. 

III.  Success,  1875-1891  22 
A  commission  and  what  came  of  it  —  Marriage  —  The  first  sky- 
scraper —  Chicago  ofTice  buildings  —  Cage  construction  —  The 
tallest  building  in  the  world  —  The  spirit  of  Chicago  —  Character 

of  Chicago  architecture  —  The  Richardson  influence  —  The 
work  of  Burnham  &  Root. 

IV.  The  World's  Columbian  Exposition,  1891-1893  31 
Origin  of  the  celebration  of  the  Four  Hundredth  Anniversary  of 

the  Discovery  of  America  —  Organization  —  James  W.  Ells- 
worth enlists  Frederick  Law  Olmsted  in  the  project  —  The  site 

—  Preliminary  plans  —  The  organization  —  Selection  of  the 
architects  —  D.  H.  Burnham,  chief  of  construction  —  Meeting 
of  the  architects  —  Death  of  John  W.  Root  —  Harry  Codman 

—  Submission  of  architect's  plans  —  A  dream  to  be  realized 

—  Charles  B.  Atwood  as  a  designer. 

V.  Friendships  of  the  Fair  53 

Sacrifice  of  private  practice  —  Life  in  a  shack  —  Revels  — 
Theodore  Thomas  and  his  orchestra  —  Augustus  Saint-Gau- 
dens's  head  for  the  Adams  Memorial  —  Francis  Davis  Millet 
and  William  Eleroy  Curtis  —  Charles  FoUen  McKim. 

VI.  Recognition  69 

Dinner  to  Mr.  Burnham  by  fellow-architects  and  citizens  of 
New  York  —  Witty  report  in  the  New  York  Tribune  —  A  testi- 
monial —  Introduction  by  Richard  M.  Hunt  —  Mr.  Burnham's 


xii  CONTENTS 

tribute  to  Frederick  Law  Olmsted  —  James  S.  Norton  toasts 
Chicago  —  William  D.  Howells. 

VII.  Picking  up  the  Threads,  1894-1895  82 

Organization  of  the  firm  of  D.  H.  Burnham  &  Co.  —  Solution 
of  problems  in  commercial  building  —  Professor  Charles  Eliot 
Norton's  opinions  and  tributes  —  President  Charles  W.  Eliot 

—  Influence  of  the  Chicago  Fair  on  American  architecture  — 
Characteristics  of  the  Burnham  buildings. 

VIII.  President  of  the  American  Institute  of  Archi- 
tects 95 
Election  of  Mr.  Burnham  —  Improvement  of  Government 
architecture  —  Achievements  of  the  Institute  —  Free  prelimi- 
nary services  —  Dangers  in  competitions  —  Duties  of  the  archi- 
tect to  the  Government  —  Trade  unionism  in  the  Institute  — 
Death  of  Richard  Morris  Hunt  —  Controversy  with  Secretary 
Carlisle  —  The  question  of  fees  for  Government  work  —  Some 
conclusions. 

IX.  Europe  for  the  First  Time,  1896  117 

Mr.  Burnham  a  product  of  the  Middle  West  —  A  well-earned 
vacation  —  Funchal  as  fairyland  —  The  Mediterranean  — 
The  Riviera  —  Malta  —  Egypt  —  Chicago  friends  —  The 
Pyramids  —  The  Holy  Land  —  Constantinople  —  Athens  — 
Meeting  with  Charles  McKim  —  Rome. 

X.  The  Improvement  of  Washington  City,  1901  129 

Beginnings  of  the  National  Capital  —  Interest  shown  by 
President  Washington  —  The  L'Enfant  Plan  of  1792  —  De- 
cline of  public  taste  —  Efl'ect  of  the  Civil  War  on  Washington- 

—  The  L'Enfant  Plan  mutilated  —  Celebration  of  the  Washing 
ton  Centenary —  Conference  between  the  Senate  Committee  on 
the  District  of  Columbia  and  the  American  Institute  of 
Architects  —  The  McMillan  Resolution  —  Mr.  Burnham  ac- 
cepts the  chairmanship  of  the  Senate  Park  Commission  — 
The  membership. 

XI.  The  United  States  Senate  Park  Commission,  1901  141 

Mr.  Burnham  enters  upon  national  service  • —  The  work  be- 
gins —  Private  practice  —  Visits  to  historic  places  on  the  James 
and  Potomac  Rivers  —  Commission  to  design  the  Washington 
Railway  Station  —  Augustus  Saint-Gaudens  added  to  the 
Commission  —  Visit  to  Europe  by  Messrs.  Burnham,  McKim, 
Olmsted,  and  Moore  —  Momentous  interview  with  President 
Cassatt  in  London  —  Senator  McMillan  commissions  Mr. 
Burnham  "General"  —  Presentation  of  the  Washington  Plan. 

XII.  Washington  Problems;  THE  Cleveland  Plan,  1902  173 

Work  on  the  Washington  Union  Station  —  Problems  involved 

—  Visit  to  California  —  A  plan  for  San  Francisco  —  Death  of 


CONTENTS  xiii 

J.  B.  Sherman  —  The  Memorial  to  General  Grant  —  Restora- 
tion of  the  White  House  —  The  Flatiron  Building  —  A  group 
plan  for  Cleveland  —  Charlevoix  —  Death  of  Senator  McMil- 
lan —  The  McKinley  Memorial  in  Buffalo. 

XIII.  The  West  Point  Plan,  1902-1903  189 
Mr.  Burnham  accepts  Secretary  Root's  invitation  to  enter 

the  West  Point  competition  —  Programme  troubles  —  Ques- 
tions of  style  —  Edward  H.  Bennett  —  Compromise  rejected 

—  An  ideal  development  suggested  —  Loses  in  the  competi- 
tion. 

XIV.  The  Washington  Station  and  the  Cleveland 

Group  Plan,  1903  197 

Congress  completes  the  legislation  for  a  union  station  —  Mr. 
McKim's  criticism  —  The  Chicago  Lake  Front  Plan  —  A  typ- 
ical Sunday  at  Evanston  —  Mr.  McKim  receives  the  Gold 
Medal  of  the  R.LB.A.  —  The  Cleveland  Report  presented. 

XV.  The  Struggle  to  Preserve  the  Mall  in  Wash- 
ington, 1903-1904  205 
Effects  of  Senator  McMillan's  death  on  the  Washington  Plan 

—  The  first  test  —  The  Agricultural  Department  Building  — 
Opposition  of  Representative  Cannon  —  Work  of  Glenn 
Brown  —  Hearing  on  the  Newlands  Bill  —  Mr.  Burnham  re- 
lates the  history  of  the  Washington  Plan  —  The  argument  — 
President  Roosevelt  and  Secretary  Taft  to  the  rescue  —  The 
Consultative  Board. 

XVI.  Far  West  and  F.\r  East:  San  Francisco,  Manila, 

Baguio,  1904-1905  230 

Secretary  Taft  invites  Mr.  Burnham  to  make  plans  for 
Manila  and  Baguio  —  Association  for  the  Improvement  of 
San  Francisco  arranges  for  a  comprehensive  plan  —  The 
shack  on  Twin  Peaks  —  The  National  Museum  Building  — 
Visit  to  Secretary  Paul  Morton  —  The  San  Francisco  Plan 
begun  —  Willis  Polk  —  Working  in  the  Philippines. 

XVII.  The  Harvard  Yard  — A  Dip  into  the  Wilder- 
ness, 1905  246 
Burnham  diaries  —  Visit  to  Charles  Eliot  Norton  —  Letter 
from  Charles  Francis  Adams  —  Problem  of  the  Harvard 
Yard  —  The  Burnham-Millet  Report  —  Professor  Norton's 
hard  task  —  Mr.  Millet's  strictures  —  Mr.  Burnham  made  a 
Doctor  of  Laws  —  Mr.  McKim's  illness. 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

Daniel  Hudson  Burnham  Colored  frontispiece 

From  a  painting  by  Zorn,  1899 

The  Old  Burnham  House  at  Ipswich,  Massachusetts  2 

Henderson  Harbor,  on  Lake  Ontario  6 

Birthplace  of  Daniel  H.  Burnham,  Henderson,  New 

York  6 

Edwin  Burnham  10 

From  a  daguerreotype 

Elizabeth  Keith  Burnham  12 

Chicago  Landmarks  of  the  1850's  14 

Chicago  in  the  1870's  14 

Daniel  H.  Burnham  at  Twelve  and  at  Nineteen  18 

Mrs.  Daniel  H.  Burnham  22 

BUIWHAM    AND    RoOT    IN    THEIR    OfFICE    IN    THE   RoOKERY 

Building,  Chicago,  about  1892  26 

Frederick  Law  Olmsted  32 

Henry  Sargent  Codman  32 

Meeting  of  the  Board  of  Architects  and  the  Grounds 
AND  Building  Committee  of  the  Columbian  Exposi- 
tion, February  24,  1891  36 
From  a  water-color  by  W.  T.  Smedley 

McKiM,  Mead,  and  White  40 

John  W.  Root  44 

Augustus  Saint-Gaudens  46 

Burnham  and  Atwood  in  the  World's  Fair  Draughting- 
RooM  48 

From  a  drawing  by  Thulstrup 

Mr.  Burnham  and  his  World's  Fair  Staff  52 

Log  Cabin  on  the  Wooded  Island:  The  Scene  of  the 
Artists'  Revels  56 

The  Administration  Building  Illuminated  56 


xvi  ILLUSTRATIONS 

Bust  from  the  Adams  Memorial  at  Washington  by 
Augustus  Saint-Gaudens  60 

Washington:  The  Senate  Park  Commission  Plan,  1901; 
showing  the  Capitol  Group,  the  Union  Station,  the 
Mall  leading  to  the  WashingtonMonumentGardens, 
the  Lincoln  Memorial,  the  Memorial  Bridge,  the 
White  House  Group,  and  the  Memorial  to  the  Mak- 
ers OF  THE  Constitution  {in  color)  G2 
From  a  rendering  by  Jules  Guerin 

Charles  Follen  McKim  64 

Theodore  Thomas  68 

The  Loving-Cup  presented  to  Mr.  Burnham  at  the 
New  York  Dinner  72 

From  a  design  for  the  programme  of  toasts,  by  Edwin  How- 
land  Blashfield 

List  of  Guests  at  the  New  York  Dinner  etched  on  the 
Bottom  of  the  Loving-Cup  •  76 

Designed  by  Charles  F.  McKim 

The  Court  of  Honor,  Chicago  World's  Fair  80 

Charles  Atwood  84 

From  a  caricature  by  Simmons 

Charles  Eliot  Norton,  1878  88 

Illinois  Trust  and  Savings  Bank,  Chicago  92 

Architects'  Dinner  at  Kingsley's  Restaurant,  Chicago, 
February  28,  1891  96 

Group  of  World's  Fair  Architects,  Artists,  and  Offi- 
cials, May,  1891  100 

The  Carlisle-Burnham  Controversy  104 

From  a  cartoon  printed  in  Life,  April  12,  1894 

Mr.  Burnham  and  Daniel  H.  Burnham,  Jr.,  about  1894  108 

The  Oliver  Building,  Pittsburgh  112 

Entrance  to  the  Burnham  Home,  Evanston  118 

Fourth  OF  July  on  the  Lawn  AT  Evan STON  118 

Point  West  of  Algiers  {in  color)  122 

From  a  water-color  sketch  by  D.  H.  Burnham 

Algiers  {in  color)  126 

From  a  water-color  sketch  by  D.  H.  Burnham 


ILL  USTRA  TIONS  xvii 

Simmons  Memorial  Library,  Kenosha,  Wisconsin  130 

James  McMillan,  United  States  Senator  134 

From  the  bust  by  Augustus  Saint-Gaudens 

Frederick  Law  Olmsted,  Jr.  138 

Washington  :  The  Senate  Park  Commission  Plan  of  1901 
FOR  the  Treatment  of  the  Washington  JVIonument 
Grounds  and  the  Mall  142 

Facsimile  of  Letter  of  May  29,  1901,  from  Augustus 
Saint-Gaudens  146 

Washington  :  The  Senate  Park  Commission  Plan  of  1901 
FOR  the  Central  Composition  150 

Vaux  le  Vicomte,  near  Melun,  France:  Two  Views         156 

Washington:  The  Senate  Park  Commission  Plan,  1901; 
showing  the  McKim  Design  for  the  Lincoln  Me- 
morial, the  Memorial  Bridge  leading  to  Arlington, 
AND  the  Parkway  connecting  Potomac  and  Rock 
Creek  Parks  (in  color)  162 

From  a  rendering  by  Carlton  T.  Chapman 

Coat-of-Arms  of  the  Senate  Park  Commission,  1901: 

Caricature  by  A.  M.  Githens  166 

Washington:  The  Senate  Park  Commission  Plan  of  1901 

SHOWING  THE  MaLL  SySTEM  170 

Washington:  Showing  the  Relations  between  the 
Capitol  and  the  Union  Station  174 

Washington:  The  Union  Station  and  the  Post  Office, 

BOTH  designed  BY  D.  H.  BuFtNHAM  &  Co.  178 

The  Fuller  (Flatiron)  Building,  New  York  182 

From  a  drawing  by  Jules  Guerin 
Peirce  Anderson  186 

View  of  Military  Academy,  West  Point,  from  the 
Chapel  190 

Design  for  Improvements  at  the  Military  Academy, 
West  Point  194 

The  Burnham  Design  for  the  Treatment  of  the  Plaza 
facing  the  Union  Station,  Washington:  Two  Per- 
spectives 198 

Group  Plan  for  the  Civic  Centre,  Cleveland  202 


xviii  ILL  USTRA  TIONS 

Washington  :  The  Senate  Park  Commission  Plan  of  1901 ; 

SHOWING    THE     PROPOSED   TREATMENT     OF    THE    CaPITOL 

Grounds,  the  Development  of  Union  Square  contain- 
ing THE  Grant  Memorial,  and  the  Beginning  of  the 
Mall  System  206 

Washington:  The  Mall  from  the  Washington  Monu- 
ment 210 

Washington:  The  Senate  Park  Commission  Plan  for 
the  Washington  Monument  Gardens  {in  color)  214 

From  a  rendering  by  Jules  Guerin 

The  Masonic  Temple,  Chicago  218 

From  a  drawing  by  Willis  Polk 

Orchestra  Hall,  Chicago  222 

Washington:  The  Senate  Park  Commission  Plan,  1901, 
FOR  Union  Square  on  the  West  Front  of  the  Capitol, 
now  occupied  by  the  Botanic  Gardens  {in  color)  226 

Mr.  Burnham  at  Twin  Peaks  Bungalow,  San  Francisco, 
1905  230 

Celebrating  Paul  Morton's  Entrance  into  President 
Roosevelt's  Cabinet,  at  Arbor  Lodge,  Nebraska 
City,  July  17,  1904  232 

William  Keith  236 

Baguio,  Philippine  Islands  240 

Breakfast  Porch,  W.  Cameron  Forbes's  House,  Baguio  240 

Daniel  H.  Burnham  and  Frank  D.  Millet  246 

From  a  caricature  by  Simmons 

The  Harvard  College  Yard  250 

In  the  Woods  :  Burnham,  McKim,  and  Dr.  Hitchcock         256 


DANIEL  H.  BURNHAM 

ARCHITECT 
PLANNER  OF  CITIES 


DANIEL  H.  BURNHAM 

CHAPTER  I 

TWO   CENTURIES  OF  BURNHAMS 

1635-1846 

DANIEL  HUDSON  BURNHAM  had  a  high  regard 
for  his  ancestors.  He  took  satisfaction  in  the  fact 
that  he  came  of  good,  substantial  stock  which 
reached  back  to  the  very  beginnings  of  this  country.  He 
never  tried  to  bridge  that  genealogical  hiatus,  the  Atlantic 
Ocean,  but  rested  content  with  the  knowledge  that  his  forbears 
were  of  the  Puritans  of  Massachusetts.  To  him  ancestry  was 
not  a  source  of  complacency,  but  an  inspiration  to  service. 
That  Burnhams  in  their  day  and  generation  had  rendered 
steadfast  and  loyal  service  to  the  community  seemed  to  call 
him  into  whole-hearted  service  for  his  city  and  his  country. 
Such  service  he  gave  freely  and  gladly,  putting  aside  any 
thought  of  compensation.  By  devoting  his  time  and  his  talents 
to  public  service,  he  felt  that  not  only  was  he  living  up  to  his 
own  obUgations,  but  also  was  imposing  the  obligation  of  his 
example  on  those  who  should  follow  him. 

Tradition  has  it  that  in  the  year  1635  the  good  ship  Angel 
Gabriel,  belying  her  name,  went  to  pieces  on  the  coast  of 
Maine;  that  her  master.  Captain  Andrews,  and  his  three 
nephews,  John,  Thomas,  and  Robert  Burnham,  escaped  with 
their  lives,  indeed,  but  suffered  the  loss  of  the  chests  which  held 
all  their  worldly  goods;  that  they  made  their  way  to  the  frontier 


2  TWO  CENTURIES  OF  BUBNIIAMS 

sclllcmcnl  of  Ipswich  in  the  Colony  of  MassachuscLls  Bay,  and 
there  eslablished  a  name  which  persists  to  this  day. 

It  was  in  the  year  1628  that  John  Endecott  with  the  first 
company  of  Puritans  landed  at  Salem,  with  a  grant  from 
Charles  I  to  the  Massachusetts  Bay  Company.  Fcjur  years 
later  Governor  I*>ndecott  sent  his  son  John  to  establish  a  LulTer 
settlement  at  the  old  Indian  town  of  Agawam,  as  a  defence 
a.qainst  the  threatened  incursions  of  the  French  from  the 
north,  The  location  i)eing  favorable,  the  town  quickly  began 
to  attract  settlers,  who  changed  the  name  to  Ipswich,  after  the 
English  port  whence  so  many  Puritans  set  sail  for  the  new 
world.  A  grist-mill  was  built  by  Sir  Richard  Saltonstall's  son; 
and  a  church  was  erected  on  Meeting-I  louse  Hill,  where  the 
First  Church  now  stands.  Roads  were  cut  through  the  forests 
to  form  a  land  connection  with  Salem.  Fisheries  were  estab- 
lished to  provide  the  settlers  with  the  abundant  cod  as  well  as 
with  lobsters  that  often  weighed  as  much  as  twenty-five  pounds. 
In  time  the  log  hou.se  gave  way  to  more  pretentious  structures 
built  of  boards  sawed  by  Ii.hhI  and  fastened  with  iron  nails 
wrought  by  the  town  blacksmith,  the  roofs  being  thatched 
with  grass  from  the  salt-marshes.  Indeed,  the  first  fire  to  which 
the  Burnham  boys  proba])ly  ran  was  caused  by  a  servant- 
woman  knocking  the  ashes  from  her  pipe  on  the  dry  thatch. 

As  the  boys  became  of  age,  they  were  duly  enrolled  among  the 
citizens:  John  in  1639,  Thomas  in  1643,  and  Robert  in  1647. 
Their  uncle.  Captain  Andrews,  continued  to  reside  in  Ipswich, 
where  he  raised  up  a  large  family.' 


»  The  niirnlwm  Famili/.  Hy  Hodcrick  II.  Hiirnham.  Ilnrlford,  1869. 
Gencaloyical  Itnords  aj  'J'liomas  liuniliaiii  tlic  Emigrant.  IJy  Roderick  U. 
Hurnham.   Hartford,  1884. 


THE  OLD  BIRNH-VM  HOUSE  AT  IPSWICH,  MASSACHf SETTS 


A  COLONIAL  LITERARY  CENTRE  3 

Ipswich  was  a  typical  Puritan  community.  Gentlemen,  who 
were  entitled  to  the  prefix  "Mr.,"  went  about  the  streets  in  sil- 
ver-laced coats  and  hats  embroidered  with  gold;  later,  ladies 
of  the  better  sort  had  their  gowns  made  by  a  man-tailor  in 
Boston;  and  so  eager  was  the  pursuit  of  Dame  Fashion  that 
the  authorities  often  were  called  upon  to  limit  by  law  the 
gorgeousness  of  attire  to  the  pecuniary  means  of  the  wearer. 

In  Uterature  Ipswich  was  conspicuous.  John  Winthrop,  the 
leader,  was  a  barrister  of  the  Inner  Temple;  he  had  served  in 
a  naval  war  and,  what  was  rare  in  those  days,  he  had  travelled 
extensively  on  the  Continent  of  Europe.  Nathaniel  Ward,  the 
minister,  a  graduate  of  Emmanuel  College,  Camljridge,  counted 
among  his  friends  Sir  Francis  Bacon,  Bishop  Usher  of  Biblical 
chronology  fame,  and  also  the  Heidelberg  theologian,  David 
Pareus,  who  had  lured  his  pupil  from  law  to  theology.  Ward 
it  was  who  wrote  the  code  of  law  for  the  colony,  embodying 
therein  principles  of  liberty  which  proved  him  no  unworthy 
disciple  of  John  Milton.  By  way  of  diversion  he  wrote  a  satire 
called  "The  Simple  Cobbler  of  Agawam,"  which  ran  through 
four  English  editions  in  a  single  year.  Then,  too,  the  most  pop- 
ular poet  and  greatest  literary  light  in  all  America  was  living 
in  Ipswich  during  the  boyhood  of  the  Burnhams.  Anne  Brad- 
street,  daughter  of  Governor  Dudley  and  wife  of  Governor- 
to-be  Simon  Bradstreet,  was  known  in  America  and  in  Eng- 
land as  "The  Tenth  Muse";  and  in  both  lands  her  poems  were 
then  prized  by  readers  as  highly  as  they  now  are  by  collectors. 

Being  farmers  with  extensive  tracts  of  land  and  mill-owners, 
the  Burnhams  had  their  full  share  in  all  town  activities.  John 
attained  the  high  dignity  of  deacon  in  the  church;  Thomas  was 
a  lieutenant  of  militia,  as  was  his  son  after  him.  John  went  out 


4  TWO  CENTURIES  OF  BURNHAMS 

to  the  Pequot  War  and  King  Philip's  War.  Burnhams  testified 
for  the  King  in  witch-trials;  some  became  selectmen,  while 
others  were  detailed  to  keep  order  in  church;  and  still  others, 
seated  in  the  General  Court,  did  legislative  work  in  Boston. 
In  the  female  Une  the  records  show  that  a  certain  Miss  Abigail 
Burnham  was  so  disorderly  in  meeting  that  her  father  was 
called  into  court  and  commanded  to  admonish  her.  ^ 

From  Ipswich  Burnhams  scattered  throughout  New  England, 
and  in  Connecticut  the  family  became  both  numerous  and  in- 
fluential. John,  the  son  of  the  first  Thomas,  and  John's  son 
Jacob  lived  and  died  in  Ipswich.  A  century  and  a  quarter  after 
the  first  coming,  Jacob's  son  John,  accompanied  by  his  own  son 
John,  Jr.,  migrated  first  to  Connecticut,  and,  after  a  short  stay, 
wended  his  way  northward  to  the  present  State  of  Vermont, 
which  was  to  be  the  home  of  the  family  for  another  century. 

At  the  time  of  their  migration  in  1761,  John  Burnham,  the 
father,  was  forty-seven  years  old,  and  his  son  was  nineteen. 
Bennington  was  in  its  beginnings  and  the  Burnhams  were 
among  the  first  settlers  of  both  the  town  and  the  future  state. 
Owing  to  the  narrowness  of  the  family  fortunes,  the  boy's  edu- 
cation had  been  limited  to  a  few  weeks  of  schooling,  so  that  what 
he  made  of  himself  was  due  to  opportunity  and  his  own  exer- 
tions. In  1765  he  removed  to  Shaftsbury,  where  he  located  him- 
seK  near  'Squire  Munroe,  a  "Yorker,"  who  was  acting  as  a 
justice  of  the  peace  under  a  New  York  appointment,  and  whose 
efforts  to  extend  the  jurisdiction  of  that  colony  over  the  un- 
organized territory  made  him  obnoxious  to  those  settlers  who 
held  their  lands  under  New  Hampshire  grants. 

'  Ipswich  in  the  Massachusetts  Bay  Colony.  By  Thomas  Franklin  Waters. 
1905. 


BEGINNINGS  OF  VERMONT  5 

A  dispute  having  arisen  between  the  justice  and  young  Burn- 
ham,  the  former  prevailed  in  consequence  of  his  presumed  legal 
knowledge.  Thereupon  John  Burnham  determined  to  acquire 
an  acquaintance  with  the  law  at  least  sufficient  to  enable  him 
to  maintain  his  rights.  There  were  no  la\s^ers  in  the  territory 
and  no  law  books  nearer  than  Lansingburg,  New  York.  To  that 
town  he  walked,  and  there  he  procured  a  copy  of  Blackstone's 
"Commentaries"  and  two  volumes  of  New  York  colonial  laws. 
These  books  he  studied  assiduously  during  his  spare  time,  and 
as  occasion  arose  he  put  his  knowledge  into  practice  ^^'ith  such 
success  that  he  soon  became  "quite  a  pettifogger  for  his  times 
and  in  a  new  country." 

The  year  1771  found  him  "keeping  a  store"  in  Bennington. 
In  1776  and  1777  Captain  John  Burnham,  Jr.,  represented  Ben- 
nington in  the  delegate  convention  which  was  struggling  to  form 
a  new  and  separate  state,  while  his  father  sat  for  Shaftsbury. 

Captain  John  Burnham  was  one  of  the  committee  of  five, 
which,  on  January  16,  1777,  reported  to  the  honorable  conven- 
tion of  representatives  from  the  several  towns  on  the  west  and 
east  sides  of  the  range  of  the  Green  Mountains,  within  the  New 
Hampshire  Grants,  a  declaration  of  independence,  wherein  is 
set  forth  the  right  of  the  inhabitants  to  form  themselves  into 
a  separate  state.  This  right  they  based,  first,  on  the  principle 
that  "whenever  protection  is  withheld,  no  allegiance  is  due, 
or  can  of  right  be  demanded";  and,  secondly,  on  the  basis  that 
"whenever  a  part  of  the  community  have  been  manifestly 
aimed  at  by  either  the  legislative  or  executive  authority  of  such 
community,  necessity  requires  a  separation."  This  declara- 
tion was  directed  at  "the  monopolizing  land-traders  of  the 
Colony  of  New  York"  countenanced  and  encouraged  by  both 


6  TWO  CENTURIES  OF  BURN  HAMS 

the  legislative  and  executive  authorities  of  that  colony  by 
"overt  acts  so  fresh  in  the  minds  of  the  members  that  it  is 
needless  to  name  them."  In  further  justification  was  pleaded 
the  resolution  of  the  Continental  Congress  of  May  15,  1776, 
recommending  the  assemblies  and  conventions  of  the  United 
Colonies,  "where  no  government  sufficient  to  the  exigencies  of 
their  affairs  hath  been  established,  to  adopt  such  government 
as  shall  conduce  to  the  happiness  and  safety  of  their  constit- 
uents in  particular  and  America  in  general." 

The  territory  included  was  that  usually  known  as  the  New 
Hampshire  Grants;  and  the  name  of  "the  separate,  free  and  in- 
dependent jurisdiction  or  State"  was  to  be  New  Connecticut, 
a  designation  which  continued  until  the  following  June,  when 
the  name  Vermont  was  chosen.  The  names  of  John  Burnham, 
of  Shaftsbury,  and  John  Burnham,  Jr.,  of  Bennington,  are 
among  the  fifty  names  signed  to  this  declaration. 

The  first  General  Assembly  which  framed  the  constitution  of 
the  State,  met  on  March  12, 1778,  at  Windsor,  with  the  younger 
John  Burnham  among  its  members.  The  Assembly  held  an  ad- 
journed session  at  Bennington  on  June  14,  and  on  the  first  day 
of  the  session,  John  Burnham,  Jr.,  became  the  hero  of  an  exploit 
that  has  kept  his  name  green  in  the  local  histories  of  Vermont. 

People  from  the  country  for  miles  around  had  gathered  at 
Bennington  to  witness  a  double  event  —  the  convening  of  the 
Assembly  and  a  hanging.  State's  Attorney  Ethan  Allen  had 
won  a  great  victory  by  convicting  one  David  Redding  of  "con- 
duct inimical  against  the  United  States  of  America,"  and  the 
prisoner  was  to  be  executed  that  day.  Suddenly  John  Burn- 
ham stalked  into  the  council  chamber  and  maintained  before 
the  Governor  and  Council  that  by  the  common  law  of  England 


HENDERSON  HARBOR,  ON  LAKE  ONTARIO 


BIRTHPLACE  OF  DANIEL  H.  Ul  ILMIAAI.  ilENDERSON,  NEW    WHK 


A  HANGING  POSTPONED  7 

"no  man  could  be  sentenced  but  upon  conviction  by  twelve  of 
his  peers,"  whereas  Redding  had  been  convicted  by  a  jury  of 
only  six  men.  Thereupon  a  reprieve  was  granted.  "This," 
says  the  chronicler,  "was  the  cause  of  great  disappointment  to 
the  people  who  had  assembled  to  witness  the  execution,  to  ap- 
pease whom  Ethan  Allen  mounted  a  stimip  and  exclaimed: 
'Attention,  the  whole;  on  a  certain  future  day  some  one  shall  be 
hanged,  and  if  Redding  is  not  the  man,  I  myself  will  be'!  A 
week  later  Redding  was  tried  by  a  regularly  constituted  jury, 
was  convicted  and  was  hanged.  Thus  was  the  law  maintained 
treason  punished  and  the  people  satisfied."  ^ 

Both  father  and  son  were  enrolled  in  the  Revolutionary  War, 
but  neither  saw  active  service.  Captain  John,  the  younger,  was 
adjutant  of  the  Second  Regiment;  but  his  main  duties  were  per- 
formed as  a  commissioner  of  sequestration  and  sale  of  Tory 
property,  his  accounts  showing  the  handUng  of  over  £34,000 
of  such  property. 

In  1785,  when  forty-three  years  old,  the  younger  John  es- 
tablished himself  at  Middletown,  where  he  built  several  houses. 
Six  years  later  his  active  business  mind  found  emplo>Tnent  in 
building  an  industrial  centre  in  a  section  of  the  town  which 
became  known  as  "Burnham's  Hollow,"  an  appellation  the 
region  retains,  although  all  Burnhams  have  disappeared.  There 
he  built  first  a  forge,  then  a  foundry,  followed  by  grist-mills,  a 
saw-mill,  an  oil-mill,  a  carding  machine,  and,  of  course,  a  dis- 
tillery. For  twenty  years  he  conducted  these  enterprises  with 
success.  Then  came  the  freshet  of  1811,  which  swept  away  in 


*  Vermont  Historical  Gazetteer,  vol.  i,  p.  165.  Article  on  "Attorneys  at 
Law."  by  ex-Gov.  Hiland  Hall.  1862.  Also  Williams's  Statistics  of  the 
Rutland  County  Bar. 


8  TWO  CENTURIES  OF  BURNHAMS 

a  night  the  labor  of  long  years.  He  was  then  sixty-nine  years 
old;  he  had  spent  a  strenuous  hfe  in  acquiring  an  education, 
supporting  a  family,  serving  the  State  and  building  up  the  indus- 
tries of  the  community.  He  rebuilt  his  forge,  but  he  never  after- 
wards did  a  large  business.  The  chronicle  records  him  as  "a 
man  of  uncommon  ability."  It  balances  his  character  accordmg 
to  the  standards  of  earlier  times  by  saying  that  "for  the  success 
of  the  religious  interests  in  town  perhaps  not  much  is  due  to 
him,  although  he  paid  something  for  such  purposes  and  was 
in  the  habit  of  attending  meetings  on  the  Sabbath,  but  did  not 
believe  in  the  immortality  of  the  soul;  yet  it  must  be  conceded 
for  the  success  of  business  enterprises  at  that  early  day  the  town 
is  much  indebted  to  him."  ^  In  this  man  of  large  enterprises  we 
fmd  the  prototype  of  his  great-grandson,  Daniel  H.  Burnham. 
The  freshet  of  1811  marks  the  cuknination  of  the  Burnham 
family  fortunes  in  Vermont.  In  that  year  John  Burnham,  Sr., 
died  at  his  son's  house  in  Middletown,  at  the  ripe  age  of  ninety- 
seven.  In  the  same  year,  Nathan  Burnham,  eldest  son  of 
John,  Jr.,  removed  to  Henderson,  New  York,  taking  with  him 
his  wife,  Rebecca  Noble,  his  son  Edwin,  and  his  daughter 
Emily.  ^  The  second  son,  Jacob,  remained  in  the  ancestral 
home,  which  came  into  his  possession  when  Jolm,  Jr.,  died 
on  August  1,  1829,  at  the  age  of  eighty-seven.' 

*  Vermont  Historical  Gazetteer,  vol.  ii,  p.  809.  Article  on  "Middletown." 
See  also  History  of  Middletown,  Vt.,  in  Three  Discourses,"  by  Hon.  Barnes 
Frisbie  (Rutland,  1867),  p.  39.  William  H.  Blanchard,  of  Montpelier,  made 
for  the  author  searches  among  the  Revolutionary  records,  the  journals  of 
the  Vermont  Assembly,  and  many  manuscript  records. 

2  Emily  became  Mrs.  Nathaniel  Eastman  and  lived  in  Seville,  Ohio, 
where  she  died,  April  2,  1891,  aged  ninety-one  years. 

*  The  fourth  son,  Sylvester,  died  in  1860.  There  were  three  daughters: 
Lucy,  who  married  Jeremiah  Leflingwell;  Julia,  who  married  Samuel  Wil- 
lard;  and  Betsy,  who  became  Mrs.  Harry  Gillet. 


AN  ELUSIVE  FORTUNE  9 

The  last  record  of  the  Vermont  Burnhams  is  in  1830,  when 
Jacob's  son,  John  3d,  became  excited  over  the  rumor  that  a 
great  fortune  awaited  the  family  in  the  Bank  of  England.  He 
corresponded  with  some  of  the  Ipswich  Burnhams  in  his  en- 
deavors to  obtain  a  clue  to  the  family  history,  with  the  purpose 
of  getting  his  share  of  the  great  inheritance,  estimated  at  a  hun- 
dred and  sixty  miUion  dollars.  Whether  there  ever  was  a  Ben- 
jamin Bumham,  who  died  in  London,  in  1694,  possessed  of  a 
hundred  and  fifty  acres  on  Bumham  Road  (now  Regent  Street), 
London,  is  still  a  family  mystery. 

Why  Nathan  Bumham  selected  the  town  of  Henderson  as 
the  place  of  his  abode  can  only  be  surmised.  Perhaps  his  fa- 
miliarity with  mill  business  drew  him  thither,  for  at  the  time  of 
his  coming  Lodowick  Salisbury  had  bought  the  saw-  and  grist- 
mills which  that  stanch  Presbyterian,  Deacon  Fellows,  had 
built  on  Big  Stony  Creek,  a  stream  that  empties  into  Lake  On- 
tario about  two  miles  from  the  town.  Perhaps,  also,  it  was  the 
failure  of  the  mills  under  three  owners  that  induced  Nathan 
Burnham  to  become  a  country  merchant. 

About  1820  the  Reverend  Holland  Weeks  came  from  Abing- 
ton,  Massachusetts,  to  Henderson,  to  settle  on  a  few  acres  he 
owned  in  that  town.  He  did  some  farming  and  was  the  village 
postmaster.  He  was  then  fifty-two  years  old,  having  been  born 
in  BrookljTi,  Connecticut,  in  1768.  He  graduated  at  Dart- 
mouth College  in  1795,  was  ordained  as  a  Congregational  min- 
ister, and  from  1799  to  1807  was  settled  at  Waterbury,  Con- 
necticut. After  a  few  years  spent  as  a  missionary  in  northern 
Vermont  and  New  York,  he  served  from  1807  to  18i4  as  the 
pastor  at  Pittsford,  Vermont,  and  for  six  years  at  Abington, 
Massachusetts,  where  his  preaching  drew  larger  congregations 


10  TWO  CENTURIES  OF  BURNHAMS 

than  the  church  could  accommodate.  Possibly  his  heterodoxy 
was  stimulating  to  the  people  of  the  Massachusetts  town.  He 
was  not  sound  on  the  doctrines  of  the  Trinity  and  eternal  dam- 
nation, and  he  developed  a  strong  leaning  toward  the  theories 
of  Swedenborg,  which  had  lately  been  brought  to  this  country. 
On  Christmas  day,  1825,  he  organized  in  Henderson  a  Society 
of  the  New  Jerusalem  with  thirteen  members;  and  he  continued 
to  preach  gratuitously  to  his  little  flock  of  thirty  or  forty  souls 
until  his  death  on  July  24,  1843. 

His  first  wife,  the  mother  of  his  children,  was  Harriet  B. 
Hopkins,  of  Great  Barrington,  Massachusetts,  a  granddaughter 
of  the  Reverend  Samuel  Hopkins,  of  Newport,  Rhode  Island, 
a  direct  descendant  of  John  Alden  and  Priscilla  MuUins.^ 
His  second  wife,  Mrs.  Delia  (Clapp)  Graves,  the  widow  of  the 
Reverend  William  Graves,  of  Woodstock,  Vermont,  elected 
not  to  follow  her  spouse  to  Henderson;  and  his  three  elder 
daughters  soon  married,  leaving  to  his  youngest  child,  Eliza- 
beth Keith,  the  physical  care  of  the  household  and  of  her 
brother,  while  her  father  looked  after  their  morals  in  a  rigid 
manner.  She  was  both  cook  and  housekeeper  and  something  of 
a  farmer  as  well. 

On  May  31,  1832,  at  the  age  of  twenty-two  she  married 
Edwin  Burnham,  one  of  her  father's  flock.  After  seven  years 
of  married  life  in  Henderson,  they  spent  a  year  in  Detroit,  where 
he  was  employed  by  Oliver  Newberry,  one  of  the  largest  of  the 
Great  Lakes  vessel-owners.  Then  they  returned  to  Henderson 
because  she  felt  that  her  father  needed  her  care.  For  a  year 
they  lived  in  Smithville,  five  miles  from  Henderson,  but  re- 

•  Holland  Weeks  also  was  a  descendant  of  John  Alden,  through  his 
daughter  Ruth. 


EDWIN  BURNHAM 


REMOVAL  TO  CHICAGO  11 

turned  to  the  home  town  and  the  old  store.  In  Henderson 
seven  children  were  born  between  1833  and  1851.  Their  sixth  ^ 
child,  Daniel  Hudson,  was  born  on  September  4,  1846,  in  the 
northwest  chamber  of  the  substantial  stone  house  still  standing 
and  well  occupied  by  Mr.  H.  M.  Scott,  who  is  easily  persuaded 
to  show  the  birth-room  and  also  the  name  of  Edwin  Burnham 
cut  in  the  cellar  door. 

\\]\en  Holland  Weeks  died  there  was  no  reason  for  remaining 
in  Henderson.  Edwin  Burnham  wanted  to  remove  to  Rome, 
New  York;  but  his  wife,  ambitious  for  her  children,  said  Chi- 
cago —  with  emphasis.  In  that  promising  Httle  city  Edwin's 
brother.  Dyer,  was  established  in  the  practice  of  law;  and 
Chicago  promised  good  education  and  good  society.  So  to 
Illinois  Edwin  wended  his  way  alone  to  spy  out  the  land.  His 
first  venture,  a  stone  quarry  near  Joliet,  came  to  grief  because 
of  the  dishonesty  of  the  partner,  Skelly  by  name;  and  quite 
in  despair  he  contemplated  another  retreat  to  Henderson.  To 
forestall  this  purpose,  the  determined  Mrs.  Burnham  broke 
up  the  home  and  shipped  the  furniture  to  Chicago.  Finally 
he  entered  the  wholesale  drug  business  in  partnership  first 
with  William  Sears  and  afterwards  with  Peter  Van  Schaack. 
The  warehouse  was  burned  in  the  great  fu-e  of  1871.  His  eldest 
son  Edwin  was  taken  into  the  business,  but  was  not  cut  out 
for  mercantile  life;  and  after  the  father's  death,  September  30, 
1874,  the  firm  became  Morrison  and  Van  Schaack,  and  is  now 
the  great  drug-house  of  Fuller  Morrison  Company. 

Mrs.  Burnham  was  of  medium  height;  she  enjoyed  fairly  good 

1  There  were  in  all  seven  children:  Edwin  Ruthven,  Romeo  Duane,  Ellen 
Weeks,  Mary  Elizabeth  (married  the  Reverend  John  Goddard,  a  Sweden- 
borgian  minister),  Lewis  Tafel  (married  a  niece  of  Joseph  E.  Worcester  of 
dictionary  fame),  Daniel  Hudson,  and  Clara  Lilian  (Mrs.  W.  H.  Woodyatt). 


12  TWO  CENTURIES  OF  BURNHAMS 

health;  while  not  handsome  she  had  a  nimble  wit  and  such  a 
love  of  fun  as  to  carry  her  through  many  trying  circumstances 
and  to  make  her  a  comfort,  help,  and  reliance  to  her  friends. 
Like  her  husband,  she  was  deeply  religious ;  but  she  kept  a  mind 
ever  open  to  new  ideas,  provided  they  were  not  inimical  to 
morals.  She  lived  until  the  World's  Fair  was  virtually  com- 
pleted, and  to  her  resorted  many  of  her  son  Daniel's  most  in- 
timate friends,  who  enj  oyed  her  quick  humor  and  ready  repartee. 
Among  these  visitors  the  most  constant  was  Frank  Millet,  to 
whom  she  recalled  his  own  beloved  mother.  She  survived  her 
husband  for  nineteen  years  and  died  in  Evanston,  on  January 
15,  1893,  at  the  ripe  age  of  eighty-three  years.  From  her  the 
son  inherited  courage,  progressiveness,  clear  judgment,  ready 
sympathy,  sincerity,  and  moral  responsibility.^ 

*  Genealogy  of  the  Family  of  George  Weeks  of  Dorchester,  Massachusetts; 
1635-1650.  By  Robert  D.  Weeks.  1885.  Also  notes  furnished  by  her 
daughter,  Mrs.  W.  H.  Woodyatt,  of  Evanston,  Illinois. 


ELIZABETH  KEITH  BURNHAM 


CHAPTER  II 

FINDING  HIS  FEET 

1855-1875 

THE  third  migration  of  the  Burnham  family  took 
place  in  1855,  when  Edwin  Burnham  with  his  fam- 
ily removed  from  Henderson  to  Chicago,  then  a  city 
eighteen  years  old,  which  for  three  years  had  enjoyed  railway 
connections  with  the  East. 

Daniel,  eight  years  old,  was  sent  to  Snow's  Swedenhorgian 
Academy,  on  Adams  Street,  between  Dearborn  and  State 
Streets.  Afterwards  he  went  to  the  Dearborn  and  the  Jones 
pubhc  schools.  School  books  had  few  attractions  for  him,  but 
his  drawing  teacher,  a  Miss  Starr,  noting  his  fondness  for  draw- 
ing, encouraged  him  to  make  black  crayon  portraits  from  life ; 
and  also  he  developed  a  propensity  to  write  stories  for  children's 
magazines.  At  the  age  of  fifteen  mihtary  ardor  seized  him.  The 
country  was  m  the  throes  of  the  Civil  War  and  he  conceived 
it  to  be  his  duty  to  take  part  in  the  strife.  Accordingly  he  en- 
listed in  the  Nineteenth  Illinois  Infantry,  from  which  predica- 
ment his  father  firmly  extricated  him,  much  to  his  disgust. 
The  class  of  1865  at  the  Central  High  School,  which  numbered 
Daniel  H.  Burnham  among  its  temporary  members,  contained 
an  unusual  number  of  boys  who  became  influential  citizens  of 
Chicago.  The  standard  of  scholarship  in  the  school  was  high, 
especially  in  Greek,  Latin,  and  mathematics.  The  chief  glory 
of  the  students,  however,  was  the  Irving  Literary  Society,  de- 
voted to  oratory  and  school  pohtics.    In  that  arena  Luther 


14  FINDING  HIS  FEET 

Laflin  Mills  first  won  fame,  at  times  by  the  recitation  of  the 
orations  of  Daniel  Webster  and  Patrick  Henry,  or  more  often 
with  perfervid  periods  of  his  own  composition.  Ferdinand 
Peck,  best  of  Latin  scholars,  was  perfect  in  deportment.  Then 
there  were  the  two  friends,  Henry  B.  Mason  and  James  B. 
Galloway,  to  the  latter  of  whom  was  applied  Homer's  descrip- 
tion of  Achilles — "the  face  of  the  hero  was  ivory  set  in  gold." 
Melville  E.  Stone,  now  manager  of  the  Associated  Press,  and 
his  brother  Ormond,  the  astronomer,  were  of  the  class,  but  did 
not  graduate.  George  Bell  Swift,  afterwards  Mayor  of  Chicago, 
was  not  numbered  with  the  scholars  like  Mills  and  Peck;  but 
he  stood  far  above  Dan  Burnham,  a  tall,  athletic  fellow,  much 
too  large  for  his  age,  and  called  the  handsomest  boy  in  school. 
In  games  young  Burnham  was  a  leader,  but  his  neglect  of  books 
was  so  flagrant  that  he  retained  a  place  in  school  only  by  man- 
ners exceptionally  good  in  a  class  where  100  per  cent  in  deport- 
ment appears  to  have  been  the  rule,  and  by  his  faciUty  in  ex- 
ecuting on  the  blackboard  creations  in  colored  crayons  that 
brought  distinction  to  his  class  on  public  occasions.  Edward 
Waller,  his  lifelong  friend,  and  Edgar  Stanton  were  his  lieu- 
tenants, and  for  a  week  before  an  exhibition,  the  three  won 
immunity  from  recitations  while  the  other  pupils  enviously 
watched  the  pictures  grow  under  their  leisurely  ministrations.^ 

When  Dan  was  seventeen  years  old  his  father  took  him  and 
his  sisters  Ellen  and  Clara  to  Waltham,  Massachusetts.  Ellen 
kept  the  house  and  her  brother  and  sister  were  placed  in  the 
New  Church  School  kept  by  the  Worcesters.  There  Dan 
formed  a  friendship  with  the  Reverend  Joseph  Worcester 
which  lasted  throughout  his  life.  Two  years  later  he  was  sent 
»  Chicago  Tribune,  December  29,  1895. 


CHICAC.O  LANDMARKS  OF  THE  1850'S 


CHICAGO  IN  THE  IMTO'S 


MASSACHUSETTS  SCHOOL  DAYS  15 

to  Bridgewater,  Massachusetts,  where  he  became  the  sole  pupil 
of  the  Reverend  Tilly  Brown  Haj^vard,^  a  New  Church  min- 
ister and  a  graduate  of  Harvard  College  in  the  class  of  1820, 
whose  task  it  was  to  fit  this  young  man  for  Harvard;  but  he 
failed  to  pass  the  examinations  for  entrance.  Nor  was  he  more 
successful  at  Yale.  He  was  destined  to  win  degrees  from  both 
institutions,  but  only  after  much  hard  work  and  long-delayed 
study.  The  idle  years  were  never  quite  made  up;  and  all  his 
life  he  felt  the  lack  of  that  mental  training  which  comes  from 
early  acquaintance  with  the  lessons  taught  by  the  past.  It  was 
during  his  stay  in  Bridgewater  that  young  Burnham's  atten- 
tion was  drawn  to  architecture,  and  his  facility  in  drawing  was 
tiu-ned  in  that  direction. 

"When,  in  1868,  his  school  days  over,  Dan  Burnham,  at  the 
age  of  twenty-two,  returned  to  Chicago,  he  was  placed  in  a 
,  mercantile  house.  Evidently  he  felt  no  call  to  the  ministry. 
It  is  not  difficult  to  imagine  the  irksomeness  of  business  rou- 
tine on  an  active-minded  youth  trained  in  the  most  imaginative 
of  religious  schools  and  conscious  of  his  own  potential  abilities. 
After  four  months  of  restlessness,  his  father,  who  recognized 
the  natural  bent  of  his  son's  mind,  took  him  to  the  architects 
Loring  &  Jenney  and  committed  him  to  their  care.  During  the 
year  he  remained  with  this  firm  he  got  the  opportunity  to  build 
some  small  houses  on  his  own  account. 

'  Mr.  Hayward  was  never  settled  over  any  church,  but  preached  tem- 
porarily in  several  places.  He  kept  a  private  school  in  Boston  until  1850, 
and  was  especially  successful  in  teaching  mathematics.  He  was  the  young- 
est of  the  twelve  original  members  of  the  First  Boston  New  Church  Society, 
having  been  in  college  with  Thomas  Worcester,  Sampson  Reed,  and  others 
of  that  persuasion.  He  translated  several  of  Swedenborg's  works  into 
Latin;  was  editor  of  the  New  Church  Magazine,  and  for  thirty  years  was 
secretary  of  the  New  Church  General  Convention.  His  obituary  appears 
in  the  Boston  Transcript,  September  20,  1878. 


16  FINDING  HIS  FEET 

It  happened,  however,  that  he  fell  in  with  a  Colonel  Cum- 
mings,  who  was  ambitious  to  seek  gold  in  Nevada.  Cummings 
organized  a  party  eager  to  make  their  fortunes  in  the  West;  and 
this  expedition  Dan  Burnham,  together  with  his  boyhood 
friend  Edward  C.  Waller,  joined.  The  mining  venture  in  Ne- 
vada failed;  and  Burnham  also  was  defeated  for  the  ofTice  of 
State  Senator.  Mr.  Waller  lost  a  considerable  amount  of  money 
before  the  two,  sadder  and  wiser,  returned  to  Chicago  in  De- 
cember, 1870,  rumor  has  it  on  a  cattle  train.  For  a  time  Burn- 
ham and  Gustave  Laureau  were  partners  in  architecture;  but 
Laureau  disappeared  at  the  time  of  the  Fire.  Afterwards  Burn- 
ham sold  plate-glass  for  a  man  named  Dodge,  who  also  left 
without  warning  and  in  debt  to  Carlyle  Mason,  for  whom 
Burnham  afterwards  planned  a  warehouse  to  square  an  ac- 
count for  which  he  was  not  liable. 

In  the  spring  of  1872,  as  Mr.  Burnham  relates,  the  year  after 
the  great  fire,  there  was  in  Chicago  a  firm  of  architects  called 
Carter,  Drake  &  Wight,  who  did  a  large  business.  The  principal 
designer  was  Peter  B,  Wight,  who  had  come  to  Chicago  with  a 
high  reputation  obtained  by  his  design  of  the  Italian  Gothic 
Fine  Arts  Building  at  the  corner  of  Fourth  Avenue  and  Twenty- 
Fourth  Street,  New  York  City.  "Many  of  the  younger  men 
admired  Mr.  Wight,  I  among  them.  I  desired  to  be  under  him, 
and  this  led  to  my  becoming  a  draughtsman  in  his  office." 
At  last  he  had  found  his  architectural  feet.  To  Mr.  Wight  he 
felt  that  he  owed  more  than  to  any  other  one  man:  from  him 
he  obtained  an  appreciation  of  scholarship  in  architecture. 

"The  first  tune  I  saw  Daniel  Burnham,"  Mr.  Wight  has 
written,  "was  in  my  own  office  in  Chicago,  during  the  winter 
of  1872-73.   He  was  then  twenty-six  years  of  age.   He  was 


FIRST  MEETING  WITH  JOHN  W.  ROOT         17 

introduced  to  our  firm  by  his  father,  the  late  Edwin  Burnham, 
one  of  the  early  settlers  of  Chicago,  who  had  retired  from  the 
wholesale  drug  trade  at  the  time  of  the  Fire  and  was  very 
desirous  that  Dan  should  be  cured  of  his  roving  disposition  and 
continue  the  study  of  architecture.  He  was  put  under  my  per- 
sonal direction  as  a  student.  I  introduced  him  to  John  W.  Root, 
who  had  followed  me  from  New  York  to  Chicago  during  the  pre- 
vious year  and  was  then  the  head  draughtsman  in  my  office. 
We  were  very  busy  trying  to  rebuild  the  burned  city." 

"It  was  in  Mr.  Wight's  office,"  records  Mr.  Burnham,  "that 
I  first  became  acquainted  with  John  Wellborn  Root,  with 
whom  I  at  once  formed  an  acquaintance  which  lasted  until  the 
end  of  his  life."  The  two  men,  so  unlike  in  all  theu"  charac- 
teristics, became  firmly  attached  to  one  another.  Each  supplied 
some  things  that  the  other  lacked ;  and  yet  they  had  so  much 
in  common  that  their  natures  readily  coalesced.  For  one  thing 
both  were  affectionate  in  temperament;  for  another  both  were 
ambitious,  determined  to  succeed  and  ready  to  pay  the  price 
of  success. 

Mr.  Root  was  nearly  four  years  younger  than  Mr.  Burnham 
and  was  better  trained  in  his  profession.  On  the  other  hand, 
he  had  no  taste  for  business;  whereas  so  soon  as  restlessness  be- 
gan to  die  down,  Mr.  Burnham's  inheritance  from  his  ances- 
tors began  strongly  to  assert  itself,  without,  however,  obtaining 
domination  over  that  other  side  of  his  nature.  He  was  never  so 
much  of  a  business  man  that  he  was  not  also  an  artist.  He  felt 
as  an  artist,  thought  as  an  artist,  and  when  he  came  up  against 
his  limitations  in  knowledge  or  as  a  creator,  he  never  failed  to 
recognize  those  qualities  in  others. 

It  is  impossible  to  understand  Mr.  Burnham's  character 


18  FINDING  HIS  FEET 

without  giving  full  consideration  to  this  early,  deep,  and  abid- 
ing friendship  between  the  two  partners.  John  Root  was 
born  in  Lumpkin,  Georgia,  January  10,  1850,  the  first  child  of 
Sidney  Root  and  his  wife,  Mary  Clark.  The  Roots  were  of 
French  Huguenot  extraction.  On  leaving  France  they  settled  in 
Badby  Parish,  England,  whence  their  descendants  emigrated' 
to  northern  Vermont  in  colonial  days.  Sidney  Root,  John's 
father,  was  born  in  the  Connecticut  Valley.  As  a  youth  he 
wanted  to  study  architecture,  but  his  worldly-wise  father  in- 
sisted on  apprenticing  hun  to  a  jeweller.  At  the  age  of  twenty 
his  roving  disposition  took  him  to  Georgia;  he  opened  a  dry- 
goods  store  in  Lumpkin  and  soon  married  the  daughter  of  James 
Clark  and  Permeha  Wellborn.  Judge  Clark  was  a  recluse  who 
burned  at  night  the  manuscripts  he  wrote  during  the  day, 
leaving  to  his  capable  wife  the  management  of  the  plantation. 
They  named  their  first  child  after  his  maternal  uncle,  John 
Wellborn,  a  member  of  the  Thirty-First  Congress,  who  in 
middle  life  gave  his  fortune  to  the  church  and  until  his  death 
in  1874  spent  his  time  in  preaching  to  the  poor. 

As  a  boy  John  Root  was  the  despair  of  his  parents;  he  was 
lazy,  with  a  propensity  for  practical  jokes.  These  defects  were 
more  than  balanced,  however,  by  evidences  of  precocity;  at 
the  age  of  two  he  could  play  on  the  violin  without  making 
discords,  and  at  seven  he  was  drawing  the  family  portraits. 
His  father,  remembering  his  own  thwarted  airibitions,  deter- 
mined that  his  son  should  become  an  architect.  During  the 
War  of  Secession,  Sidney  Root  invested  his  capital  in  block- 
ade-runners, which  quickly  brought  him  a  fortune.  During  the 
siege  of  Atlanta  (at  that  time  the  family  home)  he  was  in  Europe 
on  a  special  mission  for  President  Davis.    From  the  Clark 


P 


a 
n 


JOHN  WELLBORN  ROOT  19 

plantation,  where  the  family  had  taken  refuge,  John,  then  four- 
teen years  old,  was  taken  by  his  father's  partner,  Robert  T. 
Wilson,  to  Wilmington,  whence,  on  a  foggy  night,  they  sailed 
through  the  blockade  and  made  a  good  run  to  Liverpool. 

John  was  placed  in  a  school  at  Claremont,  where  he  had  spe- 
cial courses  in  music  and  architectural  drawing.  He  was  pre- 
cocious, but  not  studious.  A  Liverpool  organist  told  him  that 
he  would  never  play  well  because  he  had  too  ready  an  ear.  He 
was  the  prize  runner  and  jumper;  and  he  thrashed  the  English 
lads,  who,  without  knowledge  of  American  distinctions,  called 
him  by  the  hated  name  of  "Yankee." 

After  the  war  he  returned  to  America  and  entered  as  a  sopho- 
more the  class  of  1868  in  the  College  of  the  City  of  New  York, 
taking  the  engineering  course.  The  Young  Narcissus  took 
prizes  as  easily  as  he  made  friends;  his  vacations  were  spent 
among  his  father's  relatives  in  Connecticut,  where  he  dreamed 
away  the  summer  days,  looking  forward  to  a  course  at  the  Ecole 
des  Beaux  Arts.  His  dreamswere  brought  to  a  sudden  end.  The 
family  fortune  had  disappeared  even  more  suddenly  than  it 
came.  So  he  entered,  without  salary,  the  office  of  James  Ren- 
wick,  who  was  building  Gothic  cathedrals  during  the  period 
of  the  so-called  Gothic  revival.  A  year  later  he  found  a  paying 
job  with  Mr.  Snook,  who  was  selling  to  A.  T.  Stewart  and  the 
Vanderbilts  what  was  then  known  as  classical  architecture. 
From  that  office  he  followed  Mr.  Wight  to  Chicago. 

Like  all  ambitious  draughtsmen,  Daniel  Bumham  was  de- 
termined to  have  an  office  of  his  own.  Several  small  jobs  that 
his  firm  did  not  care  to  undertake  came  to  him  through  his 
friends.  Finding  that  he  could  not  do  them  in  the  office,  he 
hired  a  room  of  about  thirteen  by  sixteen  feet  at  No.  90  Wash- 


20  FINDING  HIS  FEET 

ington  Street,  where  he  worked  nights,  with  John  Root  to  help 
him.  In  the  spring  of  1873  there  was  enough  business  in  sight 
to  warrant  a  partnership. 

Looking  back  on  those  days,  Mr.  Burnham  recalled  the 
early  struggles  of  the  firm. 

Root  came  at  night  and  afterwards  for  half  of  each  day.  We 
found  it  difficult  to  keep  enough  cash  on  hand  to  pay  the  office 
expenses  and  his  board.  Then  Root  came  permanently,  giving 
all  day  and  hah  the  night  to  our  drawing.  I  took  my  turn  out- 
side and  worked  haK  or  all  day  for  other  architects  in  order  to 
make  our  financial  ends  meet.  I  lived  with  my  father  and  paid 
no  board.  The  panic  of  1873  came  and  most  of  the  little  plants 
we  had  hoped  to  see  blossom  were  blasted.  We  bought  no 
clotliing.  A  client  who  had  promoted  a  female  college  during 
the  previous  spring,  but  who  had  failed  to  carry  out  his  project, 
had  been  foresighted  enough  to  arrange  with  his  tailor  for  a 
credit  of  five  hundred  dollars.  Instead  of  the  money  he  owed 
us  for  plans  he  gave  to  each  of  us  a  suit  of  dark  blue  clothes. 
Thus  we  were  enabled  to  resume  our  social  duties  without  the 
queer  feeling  that  had  been  growing  upon  us. 

Office  rent  was  twenty  dollars  a  month.  In  the  office  was  a 
fireplace  and  a  large  brick  vault.  We  must  have  burned  a  ton 
and  a  haK  of  soft  coal  that  winter  in  order  to  keep  our  fingers 
warm  enough  to  work !  Paper  we  bought  a  few  yards  at  a  time, 
just  enough  by  the  most  economical  handling  to  lay  out  the 
immediate  plan  and  an  elevation  or  two.  Then  with  a  couple 
of  pencils,  a  piece  of  rubber,  a  few  boards,  two  stools,  and  a 
dozen  thumb  tacks  we  did  business.  Between  us  we  had  a  full 
color-box  and  one  stick  of  India-ink.  We  did  all  our  work  our- 
selves. I  wrote  out  specifications  in  long-hand.  Architects  at 
that  time  used  no  blanks;  they  did  their  business  in  their  hats 
and  often  wrote  certificates  in  pencil  on  any  piece  of  paper 
that  came  handy.  We  worked  up  a  set  of  blanks  for  ourselves 
and  later  had  them  printed.  As  soon  as  we  could  alTord  it,  we 
had  a  good  lawyer  go  over  the  contract  forms,  and  the  phrasing 


EARLY  STRUGGLES  21 

of  our  forms  came  into  common  use  not  only  in  this  country, 
but  also  in  Europe.  Even  while  doing  our  own  work  we  or- 
ganized methods  of  report  and  recording  which  grew  to  be  the 
standards  for  architects. 

We  were  gay  and  very  happy ;  work  gradually  came  our  way, 
and  when  it  did  we  used  to  dive  down  to  the  next  floor  below, 
burst  in  on  Dr.  Woodyatt,  a  crony  of  about  our  age,  and  tell 
him  about  it.  He  on  his  part  used  to  come  up  three  steps  at  a 
time  whenever  a  leading  citizen  became  a  patient  of  his. 

We  could  n't  do  all  our  drawings  very  long,  so  we  had  to  go 
to  the  expense  of  takmg  on  help.  Tom  Wing  was  our  first 
draughtsman.  Root  worked  in  the  centre  of  the  table  that 
faced  two  windows  opening  over  a  vacant  lot.  Tom  worked  at 
one  end,  with  his  back  to  the  wall.  Then  for  a  time  came 
Will  Holabud,^  a  West  Point  man,  straight  as  a  ramrod.  We 
were  proud  of  him.  He  made  the  ofiice  look  dignified,  al- 
though he  was  ^^ith  us  only  half  a  day  at  a  time  and  for  but 
a  brief  period.  Then  came  Clinton  Warren.  We  took  the  middle 
room,  put  in  a  stove,  and  began  to  buy  a  whole  roll  of  tracing- 
cloth  at  a  time.  Next  we  hired  the  front  room  on  Washington 
Street,  and  finally  the  room  across  the  hall.  There  we  stayed 
seven  years,  finally  paying  over  seven  hundred  dollars  a  year 
rent.  At  first  the  rent  item  made  me  lie  awake  nights,  but 
before  seven  years  were  over  fortune  had  smiled  on  us.  We  got 
a  real  home  to  build ! 

»  Now  senior  partner  of  the  firm  of  Holabird  &  Roach,  architects. 


CHAPTER  III 
SUCCESS 

1875-1891 

SUCCESS  came  so  suddenly  and  so  unexpectedly  to  the 
firm  of  Burnham  &  Root  that  one  is  apt  to  ascribe  the 
result  to  chance.  It  was  due,  nevertheless,  to  the  confi- 
dence their  perseverance  and  their  latent  abilities  had  inspired 
in  one  of  their  friends.  George  Chambers,  a  young  real-estate 
broker,  was  an  especial  friend  of  John  Root;  he  was  also  a 
protege  of  John  B.  Sherman,  who  had  helped  him  to  get  a 
start  in  business.  Mr.  Sherman  was  a  man  of  wealth  and  in- 
fluence; and  when  in  1874  he  confided  to  his  young  friend  his 
intention  to  build  a  house  on  Prairie  Avenue,  Mr.  Chambers 
persuaded  him  to  give  the  commission  for  the  plans  of  his  man- 
sion to  one  of  the  younger  men,  meaning  in  his  own  mind,  John 
Root.  Only  half  persuaded,  Mr.  Sherman  consented  to  meet 
the  young  architect  whom  Mr.  Chambers  should  send. 

It  so  happened  that,  Mr.  Root  being  out  of  town,  Mr.  Burn- 
ham  kept  the  appointment.  Perhaps  there  was  method  in  all 
this,  for  already  the  charm  of  Mr.  Burnham's  manner  in  meet- 
ing clients  had  begun  to  count;  whereas  Mr.  Root  was  at  his 
best  when  working  over  the  draughting-boards.  He  abhorred 
getting  business.  At  all  events,  the  meeting  was  mutually  agree- 
able, and  Mr.  Burnham  left  with  a  commission  to  prepare 
sketches  for  a  house  and  stable  to  cost  $60,000,  a  large  sum  for 
those  days. 


MRS.  DANIEL  H.  BLBIVHAM 


MARRIAGE  23 

During  the  frequent  discussions  of  the  plans,  IVlr.  Sherman's 
daughter  Margaret  was  called  in  for  criticism.  The  acquaint- 
ance thus  begun  developed  rapidly;  and  in  spite  of  the  best  in- 
tentions on  the  part  of  the  architect  to  finish  his  task  before 
making  a  proposal  of  marriage,  the  young  couple  were  engaged 
before  the  house  was  completed.  Mr.  Sherman  gave  free  con- 
sent, nor  was  he  deterred,  but  rather  strengthened,  when  Mr. 
Burnham  suggested  breaking  off  the  engagement  because  of 
family  financial  difficulties  involving  matters  which  the  sensi- 
tive architect  thought  questions  of  honor.  In  fact  that  very 
sensitiveness  seemed  to  the  prospective  father-in-law  a  guar- 
antee of  safety  in  entrusting  his  daughter  to  her  suitor.  Nor 
was  he  seriously  swayed  by  the  reports,  not  unfounded,  of  the 
convivial  propensities  of  the  firm.  The  event  proved  that  he 
had  no  cause  to  regret  the  confidence  thus  imposed;  and  during 
his  own  subsequent  troubles  he  found  his  constant  son-in-law  a 
tower  of  strength,  understanding,  and  consideration.  The  mar- 
riage took  place  on  January  20,  1876.  On  Burnham's  part  it 
proved  a  stimulant  to  ambition  and  a  steadying  force  in  life. 
In  return,  the  wife  contributed  to  the  family  fortunes  the  rare 
gift  of  thorough  sympathy  in  his  work  and  willingness  to  make 
the  sacrifices  rendered  necessary  by  his  enforced  absences  from 
home,  often  sudden  and  prolonged,  and  by  his  absorption  in 
great  projects  that  required  sustained  negotiation  and  delicate 
handling.  She  it  was  who  maintained  a  home  patriarchal  in 
character,  abundant  in  hospitahty,  and  increasingly  a  refuge 
and  a  delight,  as  will  frequently  appear  in  these  pages. 

The  commission  given  by  Mr.  Sherman,*  and  the  successful 

*  John  B.  Sherman  was  born  on  a  farm  in  Beekman,  Dutchess  County, 
New  York,  in  1825,  and  began  business  life  as  a  clerk  in  a  country  store. 


24  SUCCESS 

way  in  which  it  was  carried  out,  led  directly  to  others.  Mr. 
Burnham's  narrative  records  that  "after  the  Sherman  house 
came  the  Grannis  Building  on  Dearborn  Street,  a  structure 
seven  stories  high.  Here  our  originality  began  to  show.  Wc 
made  the  front  of  the  building  all  red,  the  terra-cotta  exactly 
matching  the  brick.  It  was  a  wonder.  Everybody  went  to  see 
it,  and  the  town  was  proud  of  it.  WTien  it  was  finished  Burn- 
ham  &  Root  moved  into  it,  and  there  we  stayed  until  it  was 
destroyed  by  fire.  Then  we  moved  to  the  Montauk  Block, 
designed  by  Burnham  &  Root,  the  first  'sky-scraper,'  as  this 
building  of  ten  stories  was  immediately  dubbed.  It  was  the 
first  distinctly  tall  building  in  Chicago  and  its  commercial  suc- 
cess made  it  the  forerunner  of  tall,  fireproof  ^  buildings  in  the 
United  States." 

At  the  age  of  twenty-three  he  married ;  he  was  caught  up  in  the  California 
whirlwind  and  became  a  '49er.  Having  made  several  thousand  dollars  in 
gold-mining  he  returned  to  his  home;  but  finding  the  old  life  too  contracted, 
he  bought  a  farm  in  Kendall  County,  Illinois.  Then  he  became  a  commis- 
sion merchant  in  Chicago,  eventually  leasing  one  of  the  numerous  stock- 
yards. In  1865  his  opportunity  came.  Impressed  with  the  economies  which 
would  result  from  concentrating  the  stockyards  at  one  point,  he  became  the 
leading  spirit  in  forming  the  combination  known  as  the  Union  Stockyard 
&  Transit  Company,  in  which  the  railroads  and  leading  capitalists  interested 
themselves.  At  the  age  of  forty  he  retired  with  ample  fortune  to  enjoy  a  life 
of  ease  in  Poughkeepsie,  New  York;  but  the  yards  needed  his  guiding  hand, 
and  reluctantly  he  returned  to  the  task  in  1867,  becoming  superintendent, 
a  position  he  held  with  a  brief  intermission  until  his  death  in  1903.  Sherman 
Park  is  named  in  his  honor,  because  he  was  for  thirty  years  a  South  Parks 
Commissioner. 

'  Up  to  this  time  "fireproof"  floors  were  constructed  of  wrought-iron 
beams  with  brick  arches  sprung  between  them  and  resting  on  their  flanges. 
The  destruction  of  the  Equitable  Building  in  New  York  proved  that  such 
construction  was  not  fireproof  —  the  exposed  portions  of  the  iron  beams,  on 
becoming  heated  from  below,  first  bent  and  then  entirely  gave  way.  In  the 
Montauk  Building  for  the  first  time  the  iron  floor-beams  were  protected  with 
fire-clay  tile,  an  air-chamber  was  left  beneath  the  bottom  of  them,  and  out- 
side this  was  a  fire-clay  plate. 

In  the  Montauk  Building  for  the  first  time  metal  was  used  in  foundations 
—  old  sixty-six  pound  railroad  iron  buried  in  concrete  being  used  to  spread 


THE  TALLEST  BUILDING  IN  THE  WORLD     25 

In  their  enlarged  offices  in  the  Montauk  Building,  Burnham 
&  Root  designed  the  Rookery,'  the  Phoenix  Insurance  Build- 
ing,^ also  the  old  Insurance  Exchange,^  and  the  first  section 
of  the  Monadnock,  the  latter  of  sixteen  stories  above  ground. 
WTien  the  Rookery  was  finished  they  moved  into  still  more 
spacious  quarters  in  that  building,  and  there  continued  until 
the  Railway  Exchange  was  built  by  Mr.  Burnham,  in  1903. 

Meanwhile  Jenney  &  Mundie  had  built  the  Home  Insurance 
Building,  with  cast-iron  columns  in  the  outer  walls  above  the 
second  story,  and  Holabird  &  Roche  had  erected  the  Tacoma 
Building  ^^dth  a  complete  riveted  steel  frame  from  the  founda- 
tion up.  These  successes  led  Burnham  &  Root  to  design  the 
Rand,  McNally  Building  in  the  same  manner.  Thereafter, 
all  the  high  buildings  designed  by  them  were  of  similar  con- 
struction, including  the  last  and  most  beautiful  of  all  the  great 
buildings  that  Root  designed  —  the  Temple  at  La  Salle  and 
Monroe  Streets.^ 

In  1890  the  Masonic  Temple  was  completed.  It  was  heralded 

as  the  tallest  building  in  the  world.   This  is  among  the  first 

the  footing,  a  method  resorted  to  because  the  former  method  of  using  stone 
so  filled  the  basement  that  no  room  remained  for  steam  boilers  and  elevator 
pumps.  In  time  caissons  dug  to  solid  rock  and  filled  with  concrete  came  to 
be  used.  The  problem  of  foundations  was  especially  important  in  Chicago 
which  rests  on  an  alluvial  deposit. 

In  the  Montauk  Building  the  attempt  to  get  two  "first"  stories  by  mak- 
ing the  lower  one  two  or  three  feet  below  the  level  of  the  sidewalk  was  used 
for  the  first  time.  Thereafter  clients  were  persuaded  that  they  could  get 
more  rent  from  an  office  or  shop  on  the  sidewalk  level  than  they  could  from 
two  spaces,  one  below  and  the  other  above  that  level. 

1  The  offices  of  D.  II.  Burnham  &  Co.  (Hubert  and  Daniel  H.  Burnham, 
sons  of  D.  H.  Burnham)  are  now  in  the  Rookery. 

2  Afterwards  called  the  Western  Union  Telegraph  Building. 

'  Replaced  by  one  of  D.  H.  Burnham  &  Co.'s  latest  creations,  the  Con- 
tinental and  Commercial  National  Bank  Building. 

*  Peter  B.  Wight's  address  on  the^work  of  D.  H.  Burnham.  Architectural 
Record,  July,  1915. 


26  SUCCESS 

buildings  of  all  steel  construction  attributed  to  Bumham  & 
Root,  although  they  had  used  the  cage  construction  in  part  for 
the  Rookery  and  the  Phoenix  Insurance  Building.  The  Monad- 
nock  was  the  last  sky-scraper  built  in  Chicago  on  spread  foun- 
dation of  steel  and  concrete,  just  as  the  Montauk  was  the  first. 
"Thus,"  says  Mr.  Wight,  "building  history  was  made  and  an 
epoch  recorded  by  Mr.  Bumham  and  his  coadjutors  during  his 
lifetime." 

In  a  critical  article  on  the  architecture  of  Burnham  &  Root, 
Mr.  A.  N.  Rebori  avers  that  "it  can  be  said  with  truth  that  Mr. 
Burnham  lived  during  a  period  of  opportunities  in  the  making, 
a  period  during  which  the  sky-scraper  was  not  only  conceived, 
but  in  which  it  was  carried  to  its  ultimate  structural  develop- 
ment. That  he  played  a  tremendous  part  in  the  growth  of  this 
truly  American  problem  is  at  once  apparent.  The  majority  of 
the  commercial  buildings  designed  and  planned  under  his  direct 
control  will  readily  prove  that  he  possessed  a  marvellous  ad- 
ministrative faculty.  He  was  the  dictator  who  organized  the 
work  of  the  various  mechanical  and  technical  experts  who  con- 
tributed to  the  making  of  tall  buildings.  He  considered  it 
was  his  first  duty  to  permit  the  structure  to  serve  in  the  most 
economical  manner  possible  the  functions  for  which  it  was 
intended."  ^ 

Important  and  characteristic  of  its  time  as  was  the  commer- 
cial success  of  Burnham  &  Root,  their  contribution  to  the  de- 
velopment of  architecture  in  America  is  of  primary  concern 
here.  The  Chicago  Fire  of  1871  began  a  new  epoch  in  the  his- 
tory of  the  city.  As  Mr.  Burnham  came  to  preach,  it  marked 
the  beginning  of  civic  consciousness,  of  cooperation  among  the 
'  Architectural  Record,  July,  1915. 


BUB^HAM  AiND  ROOT  IN  THEIR  OFFICE  IN  THE  ROOKERY  BUILDING 
CHICAGO,  ABOUT  1892 


THE  SPIRIT  OF  CHICAGO  27 

people  for  the  city's  advancement,  of  willingness  and  even  de- 
sire and  determination  to  accomplish  the  seemingly  impossible. 
Then  and  there  the  Spirit  of  Chicago,  to  which  he  so  confidently 
and  successfully  appealed  in  later  years,  had  its  birth.  Up  to  the 
time  of  the  fire,  Chicago  had  been  a  thriving  Western  city;  its 
architecture  was  essentially  Western,  with  such  exceptions  as 
would  naturally  be  found  in  a  growing  city  of  three  or  four 
hundred  thousand  people.  Its  best  wholesale  stores,  as  a  rule, 
did  not  exceed  five  stories  in  height,  although  there  were  two 
or  three  of  six  stories,  including  one  prominent  marble  building 
of  the  latter  class.  Its  best  residences  were  isolated  and  set  in 
the  midst  of  gardens.  Its  churches  were  pretentious  and  ugly, 
many  of  them  being  built  of  white  limestone  taken  from  quar- 
ries fifty  miles  away,  which  had  been  opened  within  fifteen 
years.  The  exceptions  were  St.  James's,  designed  by  Frank 
Wiles,  of  Montreal,  and  the  Eames  residence,  on  Michigan 
Avenue,  by  Richard  Upjohn,  of  New  York.  The  Marshall  Field 
residence,  designed  by  Richard  M.  Hunt,  in  process  of  erection 
at  the  time  of  the  fire,  was  not  reached  in  the  destruction. 

The  extensive  work  during  the  first  two  years  was  confined 
mainly  to  rebuilding  the  business  district.  Then  came  the 
panic  of  1873  to  put  a  stop  to  building  operations.  It  was  fully 
six  years  before  recovery  was  in  progress.  From  1880  until  the 
panic  of  1893  Chicago  experienced  an  era  of  building  greater 
than  any  knowTi  either  before  or  since  that  period.  In  this  new 
work,  as  we  have  seen,  Burnham  &  Root  had  their  full  share. 

In  American  architecture  throughout  the  country  the  period 
was  one  of  individuality  and  eclecticism.  In  the  East,  H.  H. 
Richardson  in  Boston  was  exerting  all  his  genius  and  the  results 
of  wide  European  training  to  invent  a  style  of  architecture 


28  SUCCESS 

based  on  Romanesque  and  Byzantine  tj'pes,  and  for  ten  or 
fifteen  years  his  influence  predominated  throughout  North 
America.  His  work  in  Massachusetts  and  in  the  cities  of  Al- 
bany, Pittsburgh,  and  Cincinnati  was  in  itself  an  inspiration  to 
the  architectural  profession.  In  Chicago  he  built  the  Marshall 
Field  warehouse,  the  Franklin  MacVeagh  and  the  J.  J.  Glessner 
residences  and  other  houses.  It  has  been  said  of  him  that  "he 
was  an  artist  and  a  genius  and  when  he  found  the  methods 
of  the  Ecole  des  Beaux  Arts  slow  and  laborious  he  coined  for 
himseK  a  style,  electric,  personal,  romantic  —  Gothic  in  spirit, 
Romanesque  in  detail  —  robust,  virile,  ingenious,  but  wholly 
barbaric:  remarkable  for  its  absence  of  proportion  and  sense 
of  real  beauty;  in  the  hands  of  his  followers  lawless  and  now 
happily  extinct."  ^ 

Richardson's  style  was  unsuited  to  the  modem  requirements 
in  respect  to  hght  and  air,  but  he  accomplished  a  great  purpose 
in  calling  public  attention  to  architecture  as  one  of  the  fine 
arts,  and  it  was  in  his  oflTice  that  the  men  were  trained  who  were 
to  satisfy  modern  demands  and  at  the  same  time  bring  into  our 
architecture  those  elements  of  beauty  and  proportion  which 
create  charm. 

Mr.  Peter  B.  Wight,  in  summing  up  the  work  of  Burnham 
&  Root,  said  that  "John  Root  was  too  origmal  in  his  own 
artistic  conceptions  to  form  his  style  on  that  of  any  other  man. 
If  his  sails  caught  the  fresh  breeze  of  architectural  appreciation 
among  his  clients,  nevertheless  he  steered  his  ships  into  ports 
of  his  own  choosing.  The  Chicago  pubUc  had  come  to  have  a 
perception  of  the  artistic  side  of  architecture,  and  this  fact 
gave  the  opportunity  to  Root  to  display  his  great  versatihty 
>  The  Promise  of  American  Architecture  (Washington,  1905),  p.  23. 


CHICAGO  ARCHITECTURE  29 

and  restrained  originality,  over  which  quahties  Burnham  en- 
thused wath  all  the  exuberance  of  unrestrained  enthusiasm.  It 
was  this  which  caused  the  business  to  increase,  for  Burnham 
never  let  an  occasion  pass  without  proclaiming  the  great  tal- 
ents of  his  partner.  It  was  one  of  the  secrets  of  their  success. 
Also  it  reUeved  Root  from  any  necessity  of  blowing  his  own 
trumpet.  Burnham  had  a  great  faculty  of  impressing  his 
clients  with  the  firm's  ability  to  solve  any  problem  that  came 
to  it.  He  would  make  rapid  sketches  which  Root  afterward 
elaborated  with  the  greatest  care.  He  inspired  confidence  in  all 
who  came  within  the  range  of  his  positive  and  powerful  per- 
sonaUty.  Root  had  the  ability  to  carry  to  success  anything  that 
Burnham  offered  to  do.  There  was  a  magnetism  in  both  that 
attracted  a  large  circle  of  friends.  These  friends  saw  quickly 
how  intimate  were  the  personal  relations  of  the  partners,  and 
hence  the  combination  brought  success  and  was  crowned  by 
other  successes." 

It  would  have  been  strange,  indeed,  if  John  Root,  whose  ear 
was  attuned  to  every  melody,  had  not  caught  the  impulses  that 
Richardson  was  sending  through  the  American  architectural 
world.  The  earliest  group  of  buildings  erected  by  Burnham  & 
Root  are  Romanesque  in  feeling,  and  were  undoubtedly  in- 
spired by  Richardson's  successes.  Other  Chicago  architects 
were  likewise  affected,  and  prior  to  the  World's  Fair  not  a  single 
example  of  monumental  classical  architecture  was  erected  in 
Chicago.  Surely  the  former  City  Hall,  with  its  mansard  roof 
and  puny,  superimposed  orders,  does  not  belong  to  the  classical 
category. 

To  the  First  Illinois  Regiment  Armory  John  Root  imparted 
the  Richardson  (or,  better,  the  Romanesque)  feeling  for  great 


30  SUCCESS 

wall  spaces  and  small  penetrations.  Massiveness  and  vigor  are 
combined  with  romantic  charm  after  the  manner  of  a  master. 
The  building  is  wholly  without  ornament,  obtaining  its  effect, 
as  architecture  should,  by  dignity  of  proportion  and  the  com- 
plete solution  of  the  problem. 

Mr.  Burnham  is  credited  in  the  profession  with  the  concep- 
tion of  the  Monadnock  Building.  Renouncing  colonnades, 
mouldings,  and  every  other  embellisliment,  the  designer  se- 
cured his  effect  by  the  frank  expression  of  structural  require- 
ments. Austere  the  building  certainly  is,  but  it  rises  into  the 
reahn  of  art  by  reason  of  subtleties  of  proportion  and  the  di- 
rect manner  in  which  it  answers  its  intended  large  purpose. 

That  Mr.  Burnham  had  a  personal  acquaintance  with 
Richardson  appears  from  a  conversation  between  the  two, 
which  is  reported  in  the  "Reminiscences  of  Augustus  Saint- 
Gaudens."  Richardson  told  Burnham  that  when  he  (Richard- 
son) was  designing  the  Allegheny  County  Court-House,  in 
Pittsburgh,  he  sent  for  Saint-Gaudens  and  placed  before  him 
all  the  sketches  for  the  building.  Then  he  followed  the  sculp- 
tor's advice,  being  confident  that  Saint-Gaudens's  opinion  as 
to  mass  and  outline  was  better  than  that  of  any  other  man.^ 
Probably  this  was  the  beginning  of  Mr.  Burnham's  owti  high 
appreciation  of  Saint-Gaudens's  judgment. 

^  Reminiscences  of  Augustus  Saint-Gaudens,  by  Homer  Saint-Gaudens, 
vol.  I,  p.  327. 


CHAPTER  IV 

THE  WORLD'S  COLUMBIAN  EXPOSITION 

1891-1893 

I  DO  not  know  who  first  advocated  holding  a  World's  Fair 
on  the  four  hundredth  anniversary  of  the  discovery  of 
America  by  Columbus,"  confessed  Mr.  Burnham,  "but 
by  the  summer  of  1889,  New  York,  Washington,  St.  Louis,  and 
Chicago  had  organizations  at  work,  each  in  the  interests  of  its 
own  city.^  The  Chicago  organization  raised  money  by  subscrip- 
tion and  sent  E.  T.  Jaffen>%  a  well-known  railway  manager,  and 
Mr.  Chanute,  an  engineer,  to  examine  and  report  on  the  French 
Universal  Exposition  then  being  held  in  Paris."  It  also 
elected  a  committee  to  report  on  sites.  This  committee  invited 
Mr.  Burnham  to  consult  with  them  as  to  the  location  to  be 
proposed  in  support  of  Chicago's  claims  before  Congress.  Meet- 
ings were  held  during  the  autumn  and  winter,  but  little  work 
was  accomplished.  When  it  became  certain  that  the  fair  would 
be  held  in  Chicago,  the  State  of  Illinois  Hcensed  ^  the  corpora- 
tion known  as  the  "World's  Columbian  Exposition." 
Congress  provided  for  a  national  commission  entrusted  with 

'  The  suggestion  first  appeared  in  the  New  York  Independent,  in  a  series 
of  letters  from  Spain,  written  by  Clarence  W.  Bowen,  one  of  its  editors. 
In  1884  Mr.  Bowen  went  to  Spain  and  had  interviews  with  the  King; 
Riano,  Minister  of  Public  Instruction;  with  Castelar,  and  with  the  Duke  of 
Veragua,  representing  the  family  of  Columbus.  It  was  Riaiio  who  suggested 
the  Columbus  caravels  sailing  from  Palos.  Mr.  Bowen  kept  the  subject 
alive  until  it  became  an  accomplished  fact.  (Manuscript  letter  from  Mr. 
Bowen  to  the  author,  April,  1918.) 

==  April  9,  1890. 


32      THE  WORLD'S  COLUMBIAN  EXPOSITION 

the  care  and  custody  of  the  exhibits,  including  communications 
with  exhibitors  and  all  intercourse  with  foreign  ofTicials.  Also 
for  a  local  corporation  to  build  the  exposition  and  conduct  the 
fair.  Each  organization  had  its  own  officers. 

There  was  the  usual  delay  and  waste  of  precious  time  in  dis- 
cussions as  to  the  site.  The  national  and  the  local  commissions, 
the  Chicago  authorities  and  the  railway  ofTicials  all  had  diver- 
gent but  positive  views.  Order  was  brought  out  of  chaos  by 
James  "W.  Ellsworth.  Mr.  Ellsworth  had  not  been  a  promoter 
of  the  fair  project.  He  was  opposed  to  fairs  as  commonly  con- 
ducted and  was  in  the  management  against  his  own  desires. 
But  being  connected  with  the  enterprise,  he  set  about  making 
the  right  beginning.  To  Lyman  J.  Gage,  president  of  the  Illi- 
nois organization,  he  suggested  that  Frederick  Law  Obnsted, 
the  leading  American  landscape  architect,  be  consulted.  At  first 
Mr.  Gage  demurred  on  the  score  of  expense,  but  finally  con- 
sented that  Mr.  Olmsted  and  his  partner,  Harry  Codman,  be 
invited  to  visit  Chicago  to  consult  with  Mr.  Burnham,  who 
had  continued  to  act  as  an  informal  adviser.  On  his  way  to  Bar 
Harbor  to  keep  an  appointment  with  James  G.  Blaine,  Mr. 
Ellsworth  stopped  at  Brookline  to  see  Mr.  Oknsted,  whom 
he  found  inclined  not  to  have  anything  to  do  with  "a  fair." 
WTiereupon  Mr.  Ellsworth  set  before  Mr.  Oknsted  the  alluring 
possibilities  of  a  great  exposition  area  with  waterways,  canals, 
lagoons,  and  fine  architecture.  He  kindled  Mr.  Olmsted's  en- 
thusiasm with  the  prospect  of  developing  six  hundred  acres 
at  an  outlay  of  fifteen  million  dollars.  Mr.  Ellsworth,  al- 
most alone  among  the  directors  at  the  beginning,  saw  the 
vision. 

On  his  arrival  in  Chicago,  Mr.  Oknsted  proceeded  to  examine 


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FREDERICK  LAW  OLMSTED  33 

in  succession  seven  sites  proposed  for  the  location  of  the  fair, 
three  on  Lake  Michigan  and  four  inland.  None  of  the  sites  had 
anything  to  recommend  it  in  the  way  of  scenery.  Quickly  the 
inland  sites  were  eliminated.  Of  the  Lake  sites  he  preferred  the 
one  on  the  north  for  two  reasons :  first,  the  cost  of  preparing  the 
ground  would  be  comparatively  small;  secondly,  a  spectacular 
effect  would  be  produced  by  the  great  marine  commerce  of 
Chicago  passing  in  review  before  the  grounds.  The  railroads, 
however,  refused  to  spend  the  money  necessary  to  provide 
transportation  facilities  to  the  northern  site. 

Quite  reluctantly  Mr.  Olmsted  turned  to  Jackson  Park.^ 
He  knew  both  the  advantages  and  the  disadvantages  of  this 
location.  Years  before  the  fair  was  thought  of,  he  and  his  part- 
ner, Calvert  Vaux,  had  made  a  plan  for  Jackson  and  Washing- 
ton Parks  and  the  connecting  strip  of  land  known  as  the  Mid- 
way. During  the  intervening  years  no  part  of  the  plan  for 
Jackson  Park  had  been  carried  out,  but  there  had  been  some 
development  in  Washington  Park,  mostly  unintelligent.  Be- 
fore maldng  formal  report  favoring  Jackson  Park,  Mr.  Olm- 
sted took  counsel  with  Burnham  &  Root  with  reference  to 
the  distribution  of  large  buildings  upon  the  sandy  ridges 
and  to  spreading  out  these  ridges  by  means  of  retaining  walls 
backed  by  excavated  material  taken  from  spaces  intended 
for  lagoons. 

The  place  was  forbidding  in  the  extreme.  The  land,  made  by 
the  Lake,  consisted  of  three  ridges  of  sandbars  parallel  with  the 
shore ;  the  intervening  swales  were  covered  by  boggy  vegeta- 

*  "The  Landscape  Architecture  of  the  World's  Columbian  Exposition," 
a  paper  read  by  Frederick  Law  Olmsted  at  the  convention  of  the  American 
Institute  of  Architects,  Chicago,  1893. 


34      THE  WORLD'S  COLUMBIAN  EXPOSITION 

tion.  The  few  oak  trees  that  found  lodgment  on  the  two  inner- 
most ridges  stood  with  branches  mutilated  by  the  gales  sweep- 
ing in  from  the  Lake.  The  soil  was  subject  to  flooding  and  the 
sandy  sub-soil  was  water-soaked.  The  engineers  gave  Mr.  Olm- 
sted the  pleasing  assurance  that  by  the  time  the  fair  opened  the 
surface  of  the  Lake  would  be  four  feet  higher  than  it  was  at  the 
time  he  was  studying  the  plan. 

In  order  to  fit  the  site  for  the  purposes  intended,  it  was  ap- 
parent that  the  lagoons  must  take  the  character  of  canals; 
they  must  be  made  formal  and  their  banks,  which  would  nec- 
essarily be  walls,  must  have  an  architectural  character  in  har- 
mony with  the  buildings  to  which  they  would  form  foregrounds. 
Here  at  least  was  a  start. 

On  August  20,  1890,  F.  L.  Olmsted  &  Co.  were  retained  as 
consulting  landscape  architects;  September  2,  A.  Gottlieb  was 
made  consulting  engineer  and  Messrs.  Burnham  &  Root  con- 
sulting arcliitects.  In  October,  Burnham  &  Root  resigned: 
Mr.  Root  was  elected  consulting  architect,  and  Mr.  Burnham 
was  made  chief  of  construction.  These  officers  reported  to  the 
Grounds  and  Buildings  Committee,  the  chairman  of  which 
committee  was  E.  T.  Jeffery,  president  of  the  Illinois  Central 
Raihoad.  With  clear  ideas  of  centralization  in  management, 
Mr.  Jeffery  drew  Mr.  Burnham's  commission  so  that  all  other 
officials  would  have  to  report  directly  to  him  and  could  make 
no  communication  excepting  through  him.  In  short,  he  was  to 
be  literally  the  head  of  the  construction  work. 

At  this  time  Mr.  Burnham  was  forty-three  years  old.  He  was 
the  senior  member  of  an  architectural  firm  that  had  built  in 
the  neighborhood  of  forty  miUion  dollars'  worth  of  buildings. 
No  other  firm  in  Chicago,  and  probably  no  other  firm  in  this 


DIVISION  OF  WORK  35 

country,  could  show  such  a  financial  record.  Besides  their 
Chicago  work,  they  had  erected  structures  from  Bar  Harbor  to 
San  Francisco,  and  from  Marquette  to  the  City  of  Mexico. 
They  had  done  no  building  in  the  chief  cities  of  the  East. 

Mr.  Burnham  had  a  commanding  presence;  he  was  five  feet 
eleven  inches  in  height,  with  a  broad  forehead,  blue  eyes,  and 
straight  nose.  His  hair  was  brown  and  his  mouth  was  covered 
by  a  heavy  mustache.  His  square  chin  gave  evidence  of  deter- 
mination, but  the  dimple  planted  in  it  made  for  companion- 
ship. His  bright  complexion  and  full  face  made  up  a  most  agree- 
able personaUty.  His  disposition  had  two  extremes:  he  could 
be  severe,  hard,  exacting,  regardless  of  the  feelings  of  any- 
body who  went  contrary  to  the  programme  laid  dowTi;  on  the 
other  hand,  he  could  be  alTectionate,  jovial,  companionable, 
entertaining,  and  generously  hospitable.  In  neither  case  did 
he  ever  lose  his  dignity.  As  with  the  MacGregor,  where  he  sat 
was  the  head  of  the  table. 

The  general  scheme  of  land  and  water  for  the  Exposition 
was  suggested  by  Mr.  Olmsted.  The  arrangement  of  the  ter- 
races, bridges,  and  landings  was  made  by  his  partner,  Harry 
Codman.  The  size  and  number  of  the  buildings  was  deter- 
mined by  Ohnsted,  Codman,  Burnham,  and  Root,  working  on 
a  schedule  made  by  the  Classification  Committee,  the  general 
orders  being  that  the  structures  should  contain  an  area  about 
one  third  greater  than  the  corresponding  buildmgs  at  the  Paris 
Exposition  of  1889.  The  shape  and  disposition  of  the  buildings 
were  determined  by  Mr.  Burnham  and  Mr.  Root  in  consulta- 
tion with  the  engineer,  Mr.  Gottlieb. 

Several  tentative  plans  were  drawn  on  cross-sectional  lith- 
ographed maps  of  Jackson  Park.    The  National  Commission 


36      THE  WORLD'S  COLUMBIAN  EXPOSITION 

insisted  that  a  plan  be  submitted  for  their  approval.  Thereupon 
"a  crude  plat  on  a  large  scale  was  rapidly  drawn  on  bro\Mi 
paper,  mostly  with  a  pencil  in  the  hands  of  IVIr.  Root,  whose 
architectural  prescience  and  coordinating  talent  was  of  invalu- 
able service  in  the  result."  ^  The  plat  contemplated  an  archi- 
tectural court,  similar  to  the  one  at  the  Paris  Exposition.  This 
court  should  enclose  a  body  of  water  and  should  serve  as  a  digni- 
fied and  impressive  entrance  hall  to  the  Exposition.  There  was 
a  formal  canal  leading  northward  from  the  court  to  a  series  of 
broader  waters  of  a  lagoon  character,  by  which  nearly  the  entire 
site  would  be  penetrated,  so  that  the  principal  buildings  would 
have  a  water  as  well  as  a  land  frontage  and  would  be  approach- 
able by  boat.  Also,  it  was  decided  that  near  the  middle  of  the 
lagoon  system  there  should  be  an  island  fifteen  acres  in  area, 
in  which  would  be  clusters  of  the  largest  trees  growing  upon 
the  site;  that  this  island  should  be  free  from  conspicuous  build- 
ings and  that  it  should  have  a  generally  secluded,  natural, 
sylvan  aspect. 

This  large-scale  brown-paper  plat  done  in  pencil,  with  brief 
written  specifications  almost  equally  sketchy,  was  submitted 
to  the  National  Commission  and  to  the  Illinois  corporation. 
On  December  1, 1890,  it  was  adopted  as  the  Plan  of  the  Exposi- 
tion. Thus  far,  the  only  thing  original  in  the  scheme  was  the 
introduction  of  the  canal,  lagoons,  and  wooded  island.  The 
plan  was  the  work  of  the  four  men  in  consultation,  Olmsted, 
Codman,  Burnham,  and  Root.  It  was  not  due  to  an  inspira- 
tion, but  was  thought  out  logically  step  by  step,  keeping  in 
view  the  immediate  purposes  of  the  exposition  and  the  final 
treatment  of  the  ground  as  a  pubUc  park.  It  was  a  crude  out- 
*  Statement  of  Mr.  Burnham. 


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DESIGNING  THE  BUILDINGS  37 

line  without  suggestion  of  architectural  treatment  or  style. 
Up  to  this  time  nothing  had  been  done  or  said  as  to  the 
architecture  proper,  except  idly  and  in  a  desultory  way.  Mr. 
Root  was  leaning  to  variety  in  style  and  color  for  the  build- 
ings. 

On  December  1, 1890,  the  status  was  as  follows:  the  Exposi- 
tion was  to  be  built  on  two  sites  seven  miles  apart;  one  on  the 
Lake  front  in  the  city  and  the  other  in  Jackson  Park;  a  sketch 
plan  for  part  of  the  Jackson  Park  sites  had  been  ofTicially 
adopted.  It  was  necessary  immediately  to  take  charge  of 
nearly  seven  hundred  acres  of  land,  the  larger  part  of  which 
was  swamp,  to  design  and  build  the  Exposition  and  place  the 
exhibits,  all  to  be  accomplished  in  two  years  and  five  months. 
Every  moment  was  precious.  It  was  out  of  the  question  for  the 
firm  of  Burnham  &  Root  to  think  of  designing  any  part  of  the 
buildings,  because  of  the  relations  its  members  had  already  as- 
sumed toward  the  enterprise.  Mr.  Burnham,  therefore,  drew 
up  a  memorial  to  the  Grounds  and  Buildings  Committee, 
which  the  conferees  signed.  This  memorial,  dated  December  9, 
1890,  shows  that  during  the  intimate  and  protracted  confer- 
ences an  ideal  larger  and  finer  than  anything  theretofore  ac- 
complished in  any  country  had  been  created  in  the  minds  of 
the  designers.  The  memorial  is  as  follows : 

To  the  Grounds  and  Buildings  Committee: 

Preliminary  work  in  locating  buildings,  in  determining  their 
general  areas,  and  in  other  elementary  directions  necessary  to 
proper  progress  in  the  design  and  erection  of  the  structures 
of  the  Columbian  Exposition  has  now  reached  a  point  where  it 
becomes  necessary  to  determine  a  method  by  which  designs 
for  these  buildings  shall  l^e  obtained. 


38      THE  WORLD'S  COLUMBIAN  EXPOSITION 

We  recognize  that  your  action  in  the  matter  will  be  of  great 
importance,  not  only  in  its  direct  effect  upon  the  artistic  and 
commercial  success  of  the  Exposition,  but  hardly  less  upon  the 
aspect  presented  by  America  to  the  world,  and  also  as  a  prec- 
edent for  future  procedure  in  this  country  by  the  Government, 
by  corporations  and  by  individuals. 

In  our  advisory  capacity  we  wish  to  recommend  such  action 
to  you  as  will  be  productive  of  the  best  results,  and  will  at  the 
same  time  be  in  accord  with  the  expressed  sentiments  of  the 
architectural  societies  of  America. 

The  following  suggestions  relate  only  to  the  central  group  of 
buildings  in  Jackson  Park,  it  being  the  intention  from  time  to 
time  to  designate  other  architects  for  the  various  important 
structures  that  are  to  be  erected  in  addition  thereto. 

That  these  buildings  should  be  in  their  design,  relationship, 
and  arrangement  of  the  highest  possible  architectural  merit  is 
of  importance  scarcely  less  than  that  of  the  variety,  richness, 
and  comprehensiveness  of  the  various  displays  within  them. 
Such  success  is  not  so  much  dependent  upon  the  expenditure  of 
money  as  upon  the  expenditure  of  thought,  knowledge,  and  en- 
thusiasm by  men  known  to  be  in  every  way  endowed  with  these 
qualifications ;  and  the  results  achieved  by  them  will  be  the  meas- 
ure by  which  America,  and  especially  Chicago,  must  expect  to 
be  judged  by  the  world. 

Several  methods  of  procedure  suggest  themselves:  first,  the 
selection  of  one  man  to  whom  the  designing  of  the  entire  work 
should  be  entrusted;  second,  competition  made  free  to  the  whole 
architectural  profession;  third,  competition  among  a  selected 
few;  fourth,  direct  selection. 

The  first  method  would  possess  some  advantages  in  the 
coherent  and  logical  result  which  would  be  obtained,  but  the 
objections  are  that  time  for  the  preparation  of  designs  is  so 
short  that  no  one  man  could  hope  to  do  the  subject  justice, 
even  were  he  broad  enough  to  avoid,  in  a  work  of  such  varied 
and  colossal  character,  monotonous  repetition  of  ideas.  And 
again,  such  a  method  would  invoke  criticism,  just  or  unjust,  and 
would  certainly  debar  the  enterprise  from  the  friendly  coopera- 


METHODS  OF  SELECTING  ARCHITECTS       39 

tion  of  diversity  of  talent,  which  can  be  secured  only  by  bring- 
ing together  only  the  best  architectural  minds  of  the  country. 

Second.  The  second  method  named  has  been  employed  in 
France  and  other  European  countries  with  success,  and  would 
probably  result  in  the  production  of  a  certain  nimiber  of  plans 
possessing  more  or  less  merit  and  novelty.  But  in  such  a 
competition  much  time,  even  now  most  valuable,  would  be 
wasted,  and  the  result  would  be  a  mass  of  irrelevant  and  almost 
irreconcilable  material,  which  would  demand  great  and  ex- 
tended labor  to  bring  into  coherence.  It  is  greatly  to  be  feared 
that  from  such  a  heterogeneous  competition  the  best  men  in  the 
profession  would  refrain,  not  only  because  the  uncertainties 
involved  in  it  are  too  great  and  their  time  too  valuable,  but 
because  the  societies  to  which  they  abnost  universally  belong 
have  so  strongly  pronounced  on  its  futility. 

Third.  A  limited  and  fair  competition  would  prevent  fewer 
embarrassments,  but  even  in  this  case  the  question  of  time  is 
presented,  and  it  is  most  unlikely  that  any  result  derived 
through  this  means,  coming  as  it  would  from  necessarily  partial 
acquaintance  with  the  subject  and  hasty,  ill-considered  pres- 
entation of  it,  could  be  satisfactory ;  and  the  selection  of  an  in- 
dividual would  be  open  to  the  same  objections  made  above 
as  to  a  single  designer.  Far  better  than  any  of  the  other  methods 
seems  to  be  the  last. 

Fourth.  This  is  to  select  a  certain  number  of  architects, 
choosing  each  man  for  such  work  as  would  be  most  nearly  par- 
allel with  his  best  achievements.  These  architects  to  meet  in 
conference,  become  masters  of  all  the  elements  to  be  solved, 
and  agree  upon  some  general  scheme  of  procedure. 

The  preliminary  studies  resulling  from  this  to  be  compared 
and  freshly  discussed  in  a  subsequent  conference  and,  with  the 
assistance  of  such  suggestions  as  your  advisers  may  make, 
be  brought  into  a  harmonious  whole. 

The  honor  conferred  upon  those  so  selected  would  create  in 
their  minds  a  disposition  to  place  the  artistic  quality  of  their 
work  in  advance  of  the  mere  question  of  emoluments;  while 
the  emulation  begotten  in  a  rivalry  so  dignified  and  friendly 


40      THE  WORLD'S  COLUMBIAN  EXPOSITION 

could  not  fail  to  be  productive  of  a  result  which  would  stand 
before  the  world  as  the  best  fruit  of  American  civilization. 

D.  H.  BURNH.UI 

Chief  of  Construction 
John  W.  Root 

Consulting  Architect 
F.  L.  OUMSTED  &  Co. 

Consulting  Landscape  Architects 
A.  Gottlieb 
Chief  Engineer 

Naturally,  the  paper  precipitated  a  heated  debate  in  the 
Committee  on  Grounds  and  Buildings.  Finally,  by  a  narrow 
margm,  the  recommendations  were  adopted.  On  request  of  the 
committee,  Mr.  Burnham  selected  five  men  or  firms,  and  the 
committee  promptly  confirmed  the  selection.  Thereupon,  Mr. 
Burnham  sent  to  each  of  the  selected  ones  this  letter: 

[December  12] 

The  enclosed  recommendation  was  approved  last  night  by  the 
Board  of  Directors  of  the  World's  Columbian  Exposition,  and 
in  the  same  resolution  they  empowered  the  Grounds  and  Build- 
ings Committee  to  secure  the  services  of  five  architects  to  design 
the  main  group  of  buildings  at  Jackson  Park. 

The  Committee  authorizes  me  to  confer  ^^^th  the  following 
gentlemen,  namely,  Richard  M.  Hunt,  of  New  York;  McKim, 
Mead  &  WTiite,  of  New  York;  George  B.  Post,  of  New  York; 
Peabody  &  Stearns,  of  Boston;  Van  Brunt  &  Howe,  of  Kansas 
City;  with  a  view  to  your  employment. 

It  is  intended  to  place  the  problem  in  your  hands  as  to  the 
artistic  aspects  only  —  first,  of  the  group  as  a  whole ;  second, 
of  the  separate  buildings. 

The  Committee  are  disposed  to  leave  the  methods  of  design- 
ing to  the  five  architects,  and  you  may  determine  among  your- 
selves whether  to  make  a  joint  design  of  the  whole  as  one,  or 
each  to  take  up  separate  parts  to  be  modified  to  meet  such  views 


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INVITATION  TO  THE  ARCHITECTS  41 

as  shall  be  expressed  in  your  conferences  from  time  to  time. 
This  bureau  will  be  expected  to  supply  you  with  all  data  about 
materials,  sizes,  general  disposition,  and  cost  of  building,  and 
it  is  also  to  have  charge  of  the  constructional  features,  and 
finally  of  the  execution  of  the  entire  work,  but  with  the  under- 
standing that  the  artistic  parts  are  to  be  carried  out  with  your 
approval  and  that  you  are  from  time  to  time  to  visit  the  work 
either  in  a  body  or  separately  as  may  be  determined  wise.  Our 
consulting  architect,  Mr.  Root,  would  act  as  your  interpreter 
when  you  are  absent  mthout  imparting  into  the  work  any  of 
his  own  feelings, 

I  realize  the  hesitancy  j^ou  may  feel  in  assuming  the  respon- 
sibility for  a  design  when  you  do  not  fully  control  the  execution 
of  it.  The  Committee  feel,  however,  that  strict  economy  of  the 
two  essentials,  time  and  money,  will  be  best  subserved  by  keep- 
ing the  actual  control  of  the  work  in  the  hands  of  one  man  and 
his  bureau ;  and  I  can  assure  you  that  your  intents  and  purposes 
of  design,  once  agreed  upon  by  the  Committee,  shall  be  car- 
ried out  as  you  wish  and  that  they  shall  not  be  altered  or 
meddled  with,  and  when  exigencies  arise  making  any  important 
change  necessary,  you  shall  be  consulted  and  have  the  matter 
in  charge  the  same  as  in  original  design. 

I  shall  be  pleased  to  hear  from  you  by  wire  if  you  think  fa- 
vorably of  this  proposition.  I  shall  be  here  until  Monday 
evening,  and,  unless  detained,  shall  be  in  New  York  City 
Wednesday  next,  stopping  at  the  Windsor.  As  in  a  personal 
interview  it  will  be  possible  to  make  matters  much  more 
plain,  I  hope  I  may  find  a  note  saying  that  I  may  have  the 
honor  of  seeing  you.  Those  who  accept  should  make  a  pre- 
liminary visit  here  together  as  soon  as  possible. 

Yours  very  truly 

D.  H.  BURNHAM 

Chief  of  Construction 

On  receipt  of  Mr.  Burnham's  invitation  the  Eastern  archi- 
tects held  a  meeting  at  the  office  of  McKim,  Mead  &  White,  at 
which  the  general  type  of  architecture  to  be  used  was  dis- 


42      THE  WORLD'S  COLUMBIAN  EXPOSITION 

cussed.  It  was  decided  to  recommend  a  common  height  of 
cornice.  Mr.  Mead  remembers  particularly  that  at  this  meet- 
ing Mr.  McKim  got  on  his  feet  to  give  his  views  and  began 
with  a  series  of  preliminary  remarks.  He  was  interrupted  by 
Mr.  Hunt,  who  exclaimed :  "Damn  your  preliminaries,  get  down 
to  facts!" 

While  Mr.  Mead  cannot  definitely  remember  who  made  the 
suggestion  that  the  classic  motive  be  used,  he  has  a  distinct 
impression  that  it  was  the  unanimous  opinion  of  the  Eastern 
architects  that  the  classic  motive  should  be  used.  Mr.  Mead  took 
an  active  part  in  the  early  meetings  of  the  architects  of  the 
Fair,  but  dropped  out  of  active  participation  later  on,  when 
Mr.  McKim  virtually  devoted  his  whole  time  to  the  work.  It  is 
to  be  noted  that  the  idea  of  a  uhified  composition  is  contained 
in  the  letter  of  invitation  to  the  Eastern  architects,  which  was 
written  by  Mr.  Burnham  and  gives  ample  evidence  of  his  pas- 
sion for  orderly  arrangement.  The  letter  must  have  been  the 
result  of  conversations  with  Mr.  Root  and  Mr.  Ohnsted. 
The  choice  of  the  classical  motive,  however,  was  absolutely 
new  to  Chicago,  no  architect  in  that  city  having  used  it  up  to 
the  time  of  the  Fair. 

On  December  22,  Mr.  Burnham  met  at  dinner,  in  New  York, 
Mr.  Hunt,  Mr.  Post,  Mr.  Mead,  and  Mr.  Peabody.  He  had  a 
telegram  of  acceptance  from  Mr.  Van  Brunt.  The  Eastern 
architects  were  lukewarm.  Chicago  was  a  long  way  from  home. 
They  were  skeptical  as  to  funds.  It  took  all  of  Mr.  Burnliam's 
power  of  persuasion  to  win  them  over;  but  once  committed 
they  became  enthusiastic. 

On  his  return  Mr.  Burnham  was  authorized  to  select  five 
Chicago  architects  to  design  five  other  great  structures  of  the 


FIRST  MEETING  OF  THE  ARCHITECTS       43 

Exposition.  He  named  Burling  &  WTiitehouse,  Jenney  & 
Mundie,  Henry  Ives  Cobb,  S.  S.  Beman,  and  Adler  &  Sullivan, 
all  of  whom  accepted. 

On  January  10, 1891,  the  first  meeting  of  the  architects  took 
place  in  the  office  of  Burnham  &  Root,  with  Mr.  Hunt  in  the 
chair,  and  Mr.  Sullivan  acting  as  secretary.  During  the  after- 
noon, Mr.  Root,  who  had  been  in  Georgia,  arrived.  He  re- 
mained in  the  office  while  IVIr.  Burnham  drove  the  visitors 
to  Jackson  Park.  "It  was  a  cold  winter  day,"  Mr.  Burnham 
related;  "the  sky  was  overcast  with  clouds  and  the  Lake  was 
covered  with  foam.  We  looked  the  place  over.  Robert  Pea- 
body  climbed  up  on  a  pier  and  called  down:  'Do  you  mean  to 
say  that  you  really  propose  opening  a  Fair  here  by  '93?' 
'Yes,'  I  repUed,  'we  intend  to.'  'It  can't  be  done,'  he  said. 
'That  point  is  settled,'  I  replied." 

That  night  the  Grounds  and  Buildings  Committee  gave  a 
dinner  to  the  architects.  Mr.  Gage  presided  and  made  a 
charming  speech.  Next  Mr.  Jeffery  spoke.  Then  Mr.  Burn- 
ham was  called  on.  He  said  that  in  one  sense  the  Columljian 
Exposition  was  to  be  the  third  great  American  event,  compar- 
able to  1776  and  1861.  "In  both  these  crises  men  came  to  the 
front  and  gave  themselves  up  to  the  public.  So  the  times  now 
demand  self-sacrifice.  The  success  of  this  undertaking  depends 
upon  team  work :  if  you  work  for  the  Exposition  as  a  whole,  it 
will  be  a  great  success."  There  was  a  fine  response.  The  Chi- 
cago men  promptly  responded  to  the  old  appeal  of  the  Spirit 
of  Chicago  on  which  they  had  been  brought  up.  From  that 
night  the  spirit  of  cooperation  never  failed. 

The  next  day  Mr.  Root  asked  the  visitors  for  five  o'clock  tea 
at  his  home  on  Astor  Place,   ^^llcn  they  appeared  he  was  in 


44      THE  WORLD'S  COLUMBIAN  EXPOSITION 

evening  dress  ready  to  go  to  a  dinner.  When  they  were  leaving 
he  went  out  into  the  cold  wind  to  see  them  into  their  carriages. 

The  next  morning  while  the  meeting  of  the  architects  was  in 
progress  [Mr.  Burnham  relates],  Mrs.  Root  ^  called  me  up  to 
say  that  John  had  a  bad  cold,  but  might  come  in  for  the  after- 
noon. In  the  afternoon  she  called  again  to  say  that  her  husband 
had  pneumonia.  During  the  next  three  days  I  remained  with 
him  nearly  all  the  time,  day  and  night.  On  Thursday  Harry 
Codman  went  with  me  to  the  house,  but  did  not  go  in.  John 
was  breathing  rapidly  when  I  entered  his  room.  "You  won't 
leave  me  again,  will  you?"  he  pleaded.  I  promised  to  stay. 
Later  I  went  in  to  see  his  wife,  who  was  very  ill.  His  aunt  came 
into  the  room  and  told  me  that  John  was  dead.  She  told  that 
he  had  put  his  hands  on  the  counterpane  as  if  he  were  running 
them  over  a  keyboard,  saying,  "Do  you  hear  that;  is  n't  it 
wonderful?  That  is  what  I  call  music."  Then  he  threw  up  his 
hands  and  was  gone. 

John  Root  possessed  a  mind  remarkable  for  its  artistic  in- 
sight, quickness,  and  clearness  of  apprehension  and  deep  sym- 
pathy with  everything  of  value  about  him.  Though  filled  to 
running  over  with  his  own  suggestive  thoughts,  he  never  failed 
to  grasp  another's.  It  was  his  everyday  custom  to  coordinate 
the  elements  of  discussions  with  a  rapidity  and  finish  that 
seemed  marvellous.  His  very  visions  were  as  real  to  him  as  the 
actual  objects  of  life  are  to  the  eyes  of  other  men.  He  saw  com- 
prehensively and  exactly  through  both  his  natural  eyes  and 
those  of  his  spirit;  and  his  power  of  expression  to  the  ears,  the 
eyes,  or  the  hearts  of  others  kept  pace  with  his  own  vivid  im- 
pressions. I  cannot,  of  course,  believe  that  the  architecture  of 
the  Exposition  would  have  been  better  had  he  lived,  but  it  cer- 

1  John  Root  married  Mary  Louise  Walker,  who  lived  but  six  weeks  after 
the  wedding.  Two  years  later,  in  1882,  he  married  Dora  Louise  Monroe, 
an  intimate  friend  of  his  first  wife,  and  the  daughter  of  Henry  Stanton  Mon- 
roe, a  Chicago  lawyer.  Three  children  were  born  to  them:  Margaret,  John 
Wellborn,  and  Mary  Louise.  A  romantic  study  of  the  life  of  John  Wellborn 
Root,  by  Harriet  Monroe,  with  etchings,  drawings,  and  facsimiles  of  his 
designs,  was  published  in  1896  by  Houghton  Mifflin  Company. 


HARRY  CODMAN  45 

tainly  would  have  been  modified  and  stamped  with  something 
of  his  great  individuaUty.  Our  personal  relations  had  been  in- 
timate and  even  fond  from  the  week  when  first  we  met.  We 
had  lived  together  for  eighteen  years  without  a  written  agree- 
ment —  or  a  quick  word  —  between  us.  When  he  died  I  re- 
mained with  the  Exposition  only  in  deference  to  the  judgment 
and  wishes  of  my  friends  among  the  directors. 

The  discussions  of  the  architects  extended  through  the  week 
after  the  death  of  IVIr.  Root.  The  plan  was  modified  by  impor- 
tant changes.  At  the  end  of  the  meeting  Mr.  Burnham  appor- 
tioned the  work  as  follows:  Frederick  Law  Olmsted  &  Co., 
landscape;  Richard  M,  Hunt,  Administration  Building;  Pea- 
body  &  Stearns,  Machmery  Hall;  McKim,  Mead  &  WTiite, 
Agricultural  Building;  George  B.  Post,  Manufactures  and  Lib- 
eral Arts;  Van  Brunt  &  Howe,  Electricity;  S.  S.  Beman,  Mines 
and  Mining;  Adler  &  Sullivan,  Transportation;  Henry  Ives 
Cobb,  Fisheries;  Burling  &  ^^^litehouse,  Venetian  Village; 
W.  L,  B.  Jenney,  Horticultural  Building. 

Harry  Codman's  knowledge  of  formal  settings  [says  Mr. 
Burnham]  was  greater  than  that  of  all  the  others  put  together. 
He  proposed  to  carry  back  the  fountain  [the  MacMonnies 
fountain  in  the  Court  of  Honor]  taking  it  out  of  the  north  and 
south  axis.  He  took  the  rough  plan  to  Brookline  and  set  to 
work  seriously  on  exact  dimensions,  terraces,  placing  of  bridges, 
and  the  general  laying-out  of  a  piece  of  formal  work.  We  had 
given  no  consideration  to  the  terraces,  but  had  agreed  that  the 
Itahan  Renaissance  style  of  architecture  should  be  adopted  for 
the  Court  of  Honor.  Harry  Codman  was  great  in  his  knowledge 
and  in  his  instinct.  He  never  failed.  He  liked  to  come  to  the 
business  meetings,  and  occasionally  he  made  excellent  sugges- 
tions about  organization.  I  loved  the  man.^  Nature  spoke 
through  him  direct. 

•  Mr.  Burnham's  affection  for  Harry  Codman  was  shared  by  Mr.  McKim 


46      THE  WORLUS  COLUMBIAN  EXPOSITION 

At  their  January  meeting  the  architects  confirmed  the  gen- 
eral scheme,  settled  the  exact  sizes  of  Court  and  Canal,  fixed 
the  location  of  the  main  buildings,  agreed  upon  the  height  of 
the  cornice  around  the  main  court,  and  also  the  approximate 
height  of  the  terraces  above  datum.  WTien  they  met  again  in 
February,  Charles  McKim  came  instead  of  Mr.  Mead.  The 
architects  brought  with  them  in  their  private  car  Augustus 
Saint-Gaudens. 

I  had  seen  the  necessity  [said  Mr.  Burnham,  in  relating  the 
story  of  this  momentous  meeting]  of  having  an  adviser  as  to 
the  sculptural  decoration;  so  I  wrote  to  Saint-Gaudens  asking 
if  he  would  come  out  to  give  general  advice  and  also  select 
the  sculptors. 

We  had  a  breakfast  for  the  visiting  men.  They  were  filled 
with  enthusiasm.  Charles  McKim,  with  a  good  deal  of  re- 
pressed excitement,  broke  out,  saying:  "Bob  Peabody  wants 
to  carry  a  canal  down  between  our  buildings."  I  said  I  would 
agree  to  that,  even  though  it  would  cost  something.  That  was 
Peabody's  contribution  to  the  landscape  of  the  Fair.  At  night 
that  canal  was  wonderfully  beautiful.  Next,  Saint-Gaudens 
took  a  hand.  He  said  the  east  end  of  the  composition  should  be 
bound  together  architecturally.  All  agreed.  He  suggested  a 
statue'  backed  by  thirteen  columns,  t>TDifying  the  thirteen 
original  States.  All  hailed  this  as  a  bully  thing.  A  day  or  two 
later  a  meeting  was  held  at  my  office,  the  Grounds  and  Build- 
ings Committee  being  present.  Lyman  J.  Gage  presided.  All 
the  fellows,  including  the  Chicago  men,  were  there,  each  with 

and  others  who  knew  him.  His  feeling  for  and  knowledge  of  architectural 
effects  seemed  intuitive.  He  lived  in  the  minds  and  hearts  of  his  friends  so 
long  as  they  lived.  He  died  during  the  Fair,  on  Januarj'  13,  1893,  at  the  age 
of  twenty-nine  years.  He  was  a  nephew  of  Professor  C.  S.  Sargent,  a  gradu- 
ate of  the  Massachusetts  Institute  of  Technology',  and  a  pupil  of  Edouard 
Andre,  of  Paris. 

1  The  Republic,  for  which  Saint-Gaudens  selected  Daniel  Chester  French, 
saying  that  no  one  else  could  do  it  so  well.  Chicago  now  has  a  replica  in 
bronze. 


AUGUSTUS  SAINT-GAUDENS 


A  GREAT  MEETING  OF  ARTISTS  47 

his  sketch  or  sketches.  One  by  one  they  put  the  drawings  on 
the  wall.  Hunt,  crippled  by  rheumatism,  sat  on  the  edge  of 
the  table  and  told  about  his  Administration  Building,  with  its 
dominating  dome  expressing  the  leadership  of  the  Government. 
The  scheme  as  a  whole  began  to  take  hold  of  us.  Then  came 
Post.  George  Post  had  a  dome  four  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
high.  When  they  saw  that  dome  a  murmur  ran  around  the 
group.  George  turned  about,  saying,  "I  don't  think  I  shall 
advocate  that  dome;  probably  I  shall  modify  the  building." 
Charles  McKim  had  a  portico  extending  out  over  the  terrace. 
It  was  extremely  prominent.  He  did  not  wait  as  George  had 
done,  but  explained  that  the  portico  had  merely  been  under 
consideration  and  that  he  should  withdraw  it  to  the  face  of 
the  building. 

Thus  was  the  feeling  for  unity  manifested ;  and  the  willingness 
of  those  two  men  to  subordinate  their  individual  ideas  in  order 
to  produce  a  single  harmonious  effect  illustrates  the  spirit 
which  made  possible  the  artistic  success  of  the  Fair.  WTiere 
those  two  led,  all  others  were  willing  to  follow. 

So  the  day  went  on.  Luncheon  was  brought  in.  Then  came 
the  large  Chicago  committee.  The  winter  afternoon  was  draw- 
ing to  an  end.  The  room  was  as  still  as  death,  save  for  the  low 
voice  of  the  speaker  commenting  on  his  design.  It  seemed  as  if 
a  great  magnet  held  every  one  in  its  grasp.  Finally,  when  the 
last  drawing  had  been  shown,  Mr.  Gage  drew  a  long  breath. 
Standing  against  a  window  and  shutting  his  eyes,  he  exclaimed, 
"Oh,  gentlemen,  this  is  a  dream."  Then,  opening  his  eyes,  he 
smilingly  continued,  "You  have  my  good  wishes,  I  hope  the 
dream  can  be  realized." 

All  day  long  Saint-Gaudens  had  been  sitting  in  a  corner, 
never  opening  his  mouth  and  scarcely  moving.  He  came  over 
to  me,  and  taking  both  my  hands  said,  "  Look  here,  old  fellow, 
do  you  realize  that  this  is  the  greatest  meeting  of  artists  since 
the  fifteenth  ccntui-^' ! " 

Afterwards,  the  officers  of  the  National  Commission  met  the 
architects  and  the  sketches  were  shown  to  them.  Late  in  Feb- 
ruary, 1891,  the  whole  work  was  adopted  by  all  the  authorities. 


48      THE  WORLD'S  COLUMBIAN  EXPOSITION 

It  was  determined  that  the  Woman's  Building  should  be 
designed  by  a  woman,  selected  by  an  architectural  competi- 
tion. Twelve  sets  of  sketches  were  submitted.  Miss  Sophia  G. 
Hayden,  of  Boston,  won  the  first  prize  and  designed  the  build- 
ing. Miss  Lois  Howe,  of  Boston,  won  second  place,  and  Miss 
Laura  Hayes,  of  Chicago,  third  place. 

The  death  of  Mr.  Root  left  the  office  without  its  chief  de- 
signer. In  casting  about  to  fill  this  place,  Mr.  Burnham  con- 
sulted several  Eastern  men,  among  them  Professor  Ware,  of 
Columbia  University,  who  strongly  urged  the  selection  of 
Charles  B.  Atwood.  Charles  McKim  shook  his  head  in  doubt. 
However,  Mr.  Burnham  made  an  appointment  to  meet  At- 
wood at  the  Brunswick  Hotel  in  New  York.  Atwood  did  not 
keep  the  appointment.  After  waiting  an  hour,  Mr.  Burnham 
left  the  hotel  to  catch  his  train  to  Chicago.  As  he  was  crossing 
the  street,  a  man  stepped  up  and  accosted  him,  saying  that  he 
was  Mr.  Atwood.  WTiereupon  Mr.  Burnham  brusquely  replied 
that  he  was  on  his  way  to  Chicago,  and  if  necessary  would  com- 
municate \\ith  him  later,  intimating  that  it  would  not  be  neces- 
sary. Within  four  hours  after  Mr.  Burnham  reached  his  office, 
Atwood  entered.  As  a  result  of  the  conference,  Mr.  Atwood 
became  the  chief  designer  for  Mr.  Burnham's  private  work. 
The  demands  of  the  Fair,  however,  became  so  insistent  that  he 
was  compelled  to  give  up  the  private  work. 

Charles  Atwood  designed  more  than  sixty  of  the  Fair  build- 
ings, besides  various  ornamental  features.  Continuing  the  At- 
wood story,  Mr.  Burnham  said : 

I  asked  him  to  design  an  art  building  and  explained  what  was 
wanted.  He  was  very  gentle,  with  an  engaging  manner  and 
certainly  he  was  a  very  great  artist.  His  Art  Building  in  design 
was  the  most  beautiful  building  I  have  ever  seen.  I  sent  a  blue- 


BURNHAM  AND  ATWOOD  IN  THE  WORLD  S  FAIR  DRAUGHTING-ROOM 
From  a  drawing  by  Thulstrup 


CHARLES  B.  ATWOOD  49 

print  of  the  Art  Building  to  New  York.  The  architects  took  it 
to  the  Players  Club  whence  they  sent  the  most  enthusiastic 
telegram  saying  that  it  was  a  triumph  of  architecture.^ 

When  it  came  to  the  Peristyle  I  sent  a  letter  to  the  governor 
of  each  of  the  thirteen  original  States,  asking  for  a  granite 
column  to  carry  out  Saint-Gaudens's  suggestion.  I  asked  At- 
wood  to  prepare  a  drawing  for  those  columns,  but  he  kept  put- 
ting me  off.  One  day  I  told  him  I  could  wait  no  longer.  Then 
he  pulled  out  a  drawer  and  showed  me  a  column  beautifully 
drawn.  He  inquired  if  I  had  really  made  up  my  mind  about 
the  scheme.  I  asked  what  he  meant,  catching  from  his  manner 
that  he  was  holding  back  something.  He  said  he  felt  that  the 
screen  as  planned  would  be  too  thin,  that  something  more  sohd 
and  better  tied  together  was  needed.  He  was  very  gentle,  but 
I  perceived  that  he  had  in  mind  some  scheme,  and  I  asked  if  he 
could  suggest  anything.  Thereupon,  he  took  out  a  drawing  of 
the  Peristyle  exquisitely  rendered.  It  was  as  if  some  one  had 
flung  open  the  Golden  Gates  before  me.  I  told  him  there  was 
no  question  about  it.  I  sent  a  copy  to  New  York.  There  was 
not  even  a  suggestion  of  a  possible  alteration.  They  tele- 
graphed most  emphatically  that  they  were  glad  of  the  change. 
Charles  McKim  came  often,  as  the  others  also  did.  McKim 
would  go  into  the  details  of  things  with  me.  He  was  an  inspi- 
ration. He  spent  one  entire  afternoon  looking  over  Atwood's 
drawings.  Every  little  while  he  took  down  the  books,  looked  at 
them,  and  then,  turning  to  me,  would  say:  "Confound  him,  he 
is  right  every  time." 

Mr.  Atwood's  work  on  the  Art  Building  and  the  Peristyle 
came  about  in  this  way.  The  Venetian  Village  was  abandoned 
when  it  was  decided  to  place  the  Music  and  Fine  Arts  Buildings 
in  Jackson  Park  instead  of  on  the  downtown  site  originally 
selected.  Mr.  Whitehouse  was  urged  to  design  the  Fine  Arts 
Palace,  but  severe  illness  at  the  time  prevented  him  from  doing 
it.  This  building  then  went  to  Mr.  Atwood.  The  original  loca- 

•  The  motives  of  the  Art  Building  appear  in  the  Field  Museum,  designed 
by  D.  H.  Burnham  &  Co.,  erected  in  accordance  with  the  Plan  of  Chicago, 
on  the  Lake  Front. 


50      THE  WORLD'S  COLUMBIAN  EXPOSITION 

tion  of  the  Venetian  Village  was  on  the  end  of  the  Pier  in  front 
of  the  Grand  Court,  ^^^len  the  Village  was  given  up,  Saint- 
Gaudens  suggested  the  thirteen  columns  shown  on  the  earlier 
plans  of  the  work.  This  design  being  deemed  inadequate,  the 
Music  Hall,  Peristyle,  and  Casino,  as  one  composition,  was 
entrusted  to  IVIr.  Atwood;  and  Mr.  Whitehouse  took  up  the 
very  important  work  of  designing  the  Festival  Hall.  The  total 
area  of  the  buildings  was  just  imder  two  hundred  acres. 

Frank  Millet  came  in  about  three  months  after  our  first 
meeting.  I  had  selected  as  Director  of  Color,  William  Prety- 
man,  largely  on  account  of  his  great  friendship  with  John  Root. 
He  was  to  have  charge  of  the  decoration;  and  knowing  that 
staff  was  to  be  used  he  had  begun  to  work  out  a  general  color- 
ing. He  concluded  that  ivory  would  be  the  best  color.  The 
Eastern  crowd  came  out  when  Beman's  building  was  nearly 
finished.  I  was  urging  every  one  on,  Imowing  it  was  an  awful 
fight  agamst  time.  We  talked  about  colors,  and  finally  the 
thought  came,  "Let  us  make  it  all  perfectly  white."  I  don't 
recall  who  made  the  suggestion.  It  might  have  been  one  of 
those  ideas  that  occur  to  all  minds  at  once,  as  so  often  happens. 
At  any  rate,  the  decision  was  mine.  At  the  time  Pretyman  was 
in  the  East,  and  I  had  Beman's  building  made  cream  white. 
When  Pretyman  came  back  he  was  outraged.  He  said  that  so 
long  as  he  was  in  charge  I  must  not  interfere.  I  told  him  I 
saw  it  differently.  He  then  said  he  would  get  out,  and  he  did. 
McKim  and  George  Post  recommended  Frank  Millet  for  the 
place.  I  had  great  faith  in  Post's  judgment  of  men;  so  I  went 
down  to  New  York  and  met  Frank  at  a  dinner  given  at  Del- 
monico's.  I  offered  Frank  fifteen  thousand  dollars  a  year,  the 
largest  salary  paid  to  any  one  on  the  staff.  I  told  the  directors 
I  thought  we  should  pay  that,  and  indeed  we  could  not  afford  to 
do  anything  else.  Frank  said  it  cost  him  that  to  live.  He  organ- 
ized the  whitewash-gang.  Turner  of  New  York  had  devised  a 
method  of  blowing  paint  on  buildings,  and  this  Frank  adopted. 
Afterwards,  it  came  into  general  use  for  painting  freight-cars.^ 

*  It  is  now  used  in  painting  automobile  trucks  and  the  cheaper  motor 
bodies. 


RESPONSIBILITIES  AND  OPPORTUNITIES     51 

This  brings  the  history  down  to  about  March,  1891.  Now 
for  the  first  time  the  Chief  of  Construction  was  enabled  to  form 
an  estimate  of  the  work  to  be  done.  Roughly  speaking,  it  con- 
sisted of  reclaiming  nearly  seven  hundred  acres  of  ground,  only 
a  small  portion  of  which  was  improved,  the  remainder  being  in 
a  state  of  nature  and  covered  with  water  or  wild-oak  ridges. 
In  twenty  months  this  must  be  converted  into  a  site  suitable 
in  substance  and  decoration  for  an  exposition  of  the  industries 
and  the  entertainment  of  representatives  of  all  the  nations  of 
the  world.  On  its  stately  terraces  a  dozen  palaces  were  to  be 
built  —  all  of  great  extent  and  of  high  archi]Lectural  impor- 
tance —  these  to  be  supplemented  by  two  hundred  other  struc- 
tures, some  of  which  were  to  be  almost  the  size  of  the  Exposi- 
tion buildings  themselves.  Great  canals,  basins,  lagoons,  and 
islands  were  to  be  formed;  extensive  docks,  bridges,  and 
towers  to  be  constructed.  The  standard  of  the  entire  work  was 
to  be  kept  up  to  a  degree  of  excellence  which  should  place  it  on 
a  level  with  the  monuments  of  other  ages.  The  opportunity 
for  gaining  honorable  distinction,  however,  made  the  duty  of 
choosing  men  for  the  force  comparatively  easy,  and  in  a  very 
short  time  after  the  plans  were  finally  adopted  the  men  were  on 
the  field  of  action,  working  with  one  object  —  the  welfare  of  the 
great  enterprise.' 

'  The  staff  was  made  up  of  Charles  B.  Atwood,  Designer  in  Chief; 
Francis  D.  Millet,  Director  of  Color;  E.  G.  Nourse,  General  Engineer; 
Frederick  Sargent,  Electrical  Engineer;  J.  C.  Slocum,  Mechanical  Engineer; 
William  S.  MacHarg,  Sanitary  and  Water  Engineer;  John  W.  Alvord, 
Engineer  of  Grades  and  Surveys;  Ernest  R.  Graham,  Assistant  Chief  of 
Construction;  Rudolph  Ulrich,  Landscape  Superintendent;  Dion  Gerald- 
ino,  General  Superintendant.  Later  these  changes  occurred:  Frederick 
Sargent  assumed  entire  charge  of  all  mechanical  plants,  Mr.  Slocum  going 
out,  and  R.  H.  Pierce  becoming  the  electrical  engineer.  In  March,  Mr. 
Sargent  withdrew,  leaving  Charles  F.  Foster  in  charge  as  the  mechanical 
engineer.  Mr.  Gottlieb,  the  Chief  Engineer,  withdrew  in  the  summer  of 
1891,  and  Mr.  ShanklanH  took  his  place.  Then  W.  H.  Holcomb  joined  the 
force  as  General  Manager  of  Transportation.  Colonel  Edmund  Rice, 
U.S.A.,  assumed  control  of  the  guard  in  May,  1892;  Edward  Murphy  took 
charge  of  the  fire  department  in  December,  1892,  taking  the  place  of  A.  C. 
Speed,  who  had  been  in  charge  until  then.  C.  D.  Arnold  was  made  OfTiciai 
Photographer;  and  John  E.  Owens  was  appointed  Medical  Director. 


52      THE  WORLD'S  COLUMBIAN  EXPOSITION 

During  the  storms  of  siiminer,  the  frosts  of  winter,  all  day, 
all  night,  week  in  and  week  out,  for  two  years  the  little  band 
of  American  boys  ran  the  race  for  victory  with  Father  Time 
and  won  it.  Without  looking  for  or  expecting  compensation  at 
all  equal  to  the  services  they  rendered,  without  jealousy,  with 
eager  willingness,  these  men  were  ever  to  the  front,  emulating 
each  other  ui  the  amount  and  quality  of  the  service  rendered. 
Though  I  cannot  pick  out  individuals  to  be  praised,  I  can  con- 
gratulate all  on  the  glory  they  have  won  through  constancy 
and  self-sacrifice.  They  show^ed  what  to  me  is  the  greatest 
heroism  —  forbearance  and  constant  helpfulness.  I  was  most 
proud  to  have  been  associated  with  them. 


\«-/ 


MR.  BURiMI-Ul  AND  HIS  WORLD  S  FAIR  STXFV 


I.  J.  Worwstor 
i.  P.  (VMalk-y 
:i.  M,  Purish 

4.  J.  f-.  Ilirks 
.').    n.  K.  (iralium 

II.  J,  F.  WcHsingpf 
7.  C.  Humphrey 

B.  R.  B.  Cuvunaugh 


9.  W.  B.  Green 
1(1.  M.  M.  Chesrown 
11.  L.  A.  Scovii 
li.  J.  E.  Kdly 
i:t,  Lieut.  F.  A.  Smith 
14.  F.  r.ordiar 
1.5.   M.  B.  Pickelt 
10.  A.  B.  Smith 


17.  C.  H.  Buldwin 
IM.  ][.  DcLimu 
U).  E.  II,  Jjick.son 

20.  S.  Donlan 

21.  F.  E.  FiTijuaoii 

23.  C.  M.  Wilkes 
2.1.  .1.  W.  Alvord 

24.  T.  H.  Montgomery 


25.  \V.  C.  Force 

26.  G.  H.  BLnckk-y 

27.  n.  Ulriih 
«8.   S.  G.  Neiler 
2(1.  J.  Brifield 
30.  H.  Hudson 
ai.  C.  F.  Foater 

Si.  H.  Higgiobolham 


33.  C.  C.  Whitmore 

34.  E.  G.  Nourse 

35.  W.  B.  M.iLHurg 
:f().  \V.  D.  Biihurd^un 
J7.  R.  H.  Pierce 

38.  E.  C.  Shauklund 
38.  M.  Murray 
40.  C.  D.  Arnold 


41.  C.  B.  Atwood 

42.  F.  D.  Millet 
4;i.  Col.  E.  Hicv 
44.  D.ll.  Bunihjim 
4.1.   E.  H.  (irii)iiiiii 
4(J,  \V.  II.  Ilol.o.uh 

47.  P.  M.  Symiinda 

48.  Dr.  J.  E.  Owens 


CHAPTER  V 

FRIENDSHIPS  OF  THE  FAIR 

IT  was  impossible  to  do  private  work  and  handle  the  prob- 
lems of  the  Fair.  There  were  the  committees  to  be  ap- 
peased :  the  National  Committee,  which  had  a  fine  opin- 
ion of  itself  and  insisted  on  knowing  about  everything  that  was 
done  and  why;  and  the  Chicago  Committee,  that  was  respon- 
sible for  raising  the  money  to  pay  for  the  creations  of  the  art- 
ists, creations  each  day  growing  finer  and  more  costly.  And 
there  were  the  artists  themselves,  who  had  caught  the  spirit  of 
high  excellence.  Each  one  had  the  idea  that  his  creation  was 
being  slighted,  and  was  ready  to  fight  for  it.  To  these  add  the 
contractors  bent  on  making  as  much  money  as  possible  out  of 
theu"  jobs.  To  harmonize  all  these  clashing  interests,  to  light 
and  fan  the  fires  of  patriotism  so  as  to  bum  away  the  personal 
element  and  produce  a  unified  result  to  which  each  should  con- 
tribute his  full  share;  all  this  required  insight,  tact,  apprecia- 
tion, and  determination,  ^^^lat  private  work  was  in  the  office 
was  handled  by  Dwight  H.  Perkins.  Family  life  had  to  be 
sacrificed.  Amid  the  welter  and  bustle  going  on  about  him, 
Mr.  Bumham  built  a  shack  in  which  he  lived  surrounded  by 
visiting  architects,  painters,  sculptors,  and  such  visitors  as  he 
might  invite.  Here,  after  night  came  in  from  the  broad  Lake 
to  put  an  end  to  the  day's  work,  he  gathered  about  the  long 
table  his  guests,  each  eager  to  discuss  his  particular  problems. 
Here  his  masterful  personality  was  tempered  by  quickness  to 
get  new  points  of  view  and  by  a  wide  sympathy  that  led  him  to 


54  FRIENDSHIPS  OF  THE  FAIR 

select,  approve,  and  determine  to  fight  for  whatever  thmgs 
were  good  and  true  and  fine. 

The  fluctuating  household  at  The  Shack  included  men  who 
had  already  won  the  honors  in  their  professions,  but  was  es- 
pecially strong  in  the  younger  men;  because  Mr.  Bumham 
always  was  seeking  for  artists  of  training  and  ability  who  had 
not  done  their  supreme  work.  He  believed  firmly  in  entrusting 
great  tasks  to  men  who  would  put  their  very  life-blood  into 
them  with  the  hope  thereby  of  winning  lasting  fame.  There 
came  into  that  goodly  company  the  Jove-like  and  jovial 
Richard  M.  Hunt,  first  of  Americans  to  conquer  in  the  Ecole 
des  Beaux  Arts,  who  was  understood  to  have  worked  on  the 
fagade  of  a  portion  of  the  Louvre.  To  his  personality,  no  less 
than  to  his  Administration  Building  dome,  his  companions-in- 
arms readily  yielded  domination.  Yet  his  ready  wit  was  no 
respecter  of  personages,  and  he  never  hesitated  to  let  fly  shafts 
that  penetrated  the  strongest  armor  of  seK-conceit.^  Then 
there  was  that  typical  New  Yorker,  George  Post,  whose  wal- 
rus-like visage  comported  not  at  all  \sith  an  expansive,  genial 
nature  that  viewed  the  world  in  the  round  and  found  it  good. 
And  George  Maynard,  struggling  with  his  Pompeiian  decora- 
tions; and  Edwin  Blashfield,  gentlest  of  knights  of  brush  and 
pen,  who  was  beginning  those  achievements  in  decoration  that 
were  to  establish  mural  painting  in  this  country;  together  with 
Kenyon  Cox,  who  by  both  precept  and  example  has  had  large 

*  Charles  McKim  relates  that  after  completing  his  pseudo-classical  resi- 
dence on  the  corner  of  Fifth  Avenue  and  Thirty-Fourth  Street,  which  Mc- 
Kim replaced  with  the  Knickerbocker  Trust  Buildmg,  Alexander  T.  Stew- 
art said:  "Mr.  Hunt,  you  are  the  only  person  I  have  met  who  hasn't 
congratulated  me  on  my  Greek  house.  How  do  you  like  it?"  Mr.  Hunt, 
glowering  at  the  merchant  prince,  exclaimed:  "Greek,  yes;  Greek  to  you 
and  Greek  to  me!" 


PAINTERS  AND  SCULPTORS  55 

part  in  the  cultivation  of  American  taste;  and  C.  Y.  Turner, 
with  the  visage  of  Shakspere,  and  a  wit  as  hvely.  Gari  Mel- 
chers,  fresh  from  European  triumphs,  came  to  place  his  "War" 
and  "Peace,"  painted  with  the  approval  of  the  master  Puvis 
de  Chavannes,  who  accompanied  the  young  American  to  the 
ceremony  when  the  latter  was  invested  with  the  cross  of  the 
Legion  of  Honor,  and  who  bestowed  on  him  the  jewel  that  the 
Third  Napoleon  had  pinned  on  Chavannes's  own  breast.  Came 
also,  for  longer  or  shorter  periods,  Armstrong  and  Carrol  Beck- 
with,  Coleman,  Dodge,  Earle,  Garnsey,  McEwen,  Reinhardt, 
Walter  Shirlaw,  Sullivan,  with  Alden  "Weir,  whose  sunny 
smile  spread  over  his  broad  face  as  sunshine  would  come  to 
light  up  one  of  those  trout-pools  that  could  always  lure  him 
from  a  canvas.  Under  the  nimble  pencils  of  Simmons  and 
Robert  Reid  the  foibles  of  members  of  the  company  were  hit 
off  in  caricatures  grotesque,  pungent,  satirical,  but  always 
good-natured.^ 

Marshalled  by  Augustus  Saint-Gaudens,  the  sculptors  for 
the  first  time  in  America  took  their  rightful  place  in  coopera- 
tion with  the  architects.  And  what  a  troop  they  were.  There 
was  Daniel  French,  embodying  the  spirit  of  permanence  and 
clearsightedness  in  the  serene  figure  of  The  Republic  that 
graciously  presided  over  the  Court  of  Honor;  and  again,  in 
conjunction  with  Edward  Potter,  manifesting  sustained  ability 
in  the  quadriga  surmounting  the  Peristyle  and  in  animal  sculp- 
ture. Frederick  MacMonnies,  giving  vent  to  the  exuberance  of 
America  in  the  joyous  fountain  that  lent  gaiety  to  the  great 
central  motive  of  the  Fair;  Olin  Warner,  whose  early  death 

'  One  set  of  these  caricatures  is  in  the  possession  of  James  W.  Ells- 
worth, now  living  in  New  York.  A  smaller  set  is  with  the  Burnham  papers. 


56  FRIENDSHIPS  OF  THE  FAIR 

lost  to  the  country  an  artist  on  his  way  to  the  heights;  Paul 
Bartlett,  then  a  promise  which  opportunity  has  fulfilled ;  Edwin 
Kemys,  with  his  animal  sculpture  that  came  to  attract  all  the 
money  Theodore  Roosevelt  could  spare  for  art;  and  Louis 
Saint-Gaudens,  wanting  only  the  intellectual  element  to  put 
him  in  the  same  class  with  his  brother;  and  Carl  Bitter,  capable 
and  conscientious,  whose  accidental  death  brought  grief  to  a 
host  of  admirers;  and  Loredo  Taft,  who  has  put  the  ethereal, 
haunting  spirit  of  the  Great  Lakes  into  his  Chicago  fountain; 
Larkin  G.  Mead,  sculptor  of  the  old  school;  Phemister  Proctor, 
lover  of  American  animals;  besides  Bela  Pratt,  Rohl-Smilh, 
Bush-Brown,  Rideout,  Boyle,  Waagen,  Bauer,  Martiny, 
Blankinship,  and  the  satisfactory  Partridge. 

When  friction  threatened  to  create  warmth,  there  was  the 
pervasive  Frank  Millet,  world  knowing  and  world-known,  to 
keep  the  fires  of  friendship  brightly  burning  with  his  racy 
stories,  and  his  infmite  capacity  for  ministering  to  others  be- 
fore looking  out  for  himself. 

Merrily  sped  the  hours  with  jests  and  stories  and  practical 
jokes  by  the  painters  and  sculptors,  and  on  Sunday  evenings 
there  was  music  by  a  band  made  up  from  Theodore  Thomas's 
Orchestra,  with  the  master  himself  to  direct  them.  One  is  re- 
minded of  Michaelangelo's  suppers  described  by  Benvenuto 
Cellini — butalways  without  the  "crows."  When  the  long  talks 
died  down  with  the  fire  in  the  great  fireplace,  each  sought 
his  cot,  often  to  be  haled  forth  when  some  eager  one,  whose 
head  had  no  sooner  touched  pillow  than  an  earth-shaking  idea 
popped  into  his  brain,  called  his  fellows  to  a  conference  that 
would  brook  no  delay.  Like  ghosts  they  would  emerge,  and, 
with  fire  renewed,  discuss  the  absorbing  proposition.   Yet  no 


LOG  CABIN  ON  THE  AS  UODICU  ISLAND 
The  scene  of  the  artists'  revels 


THE  AD.MIMSTRATION  BUILDING  ILLLMINATED 
Designed  by  Richard  M.  Hunt 


EARLY  MORNING  RIDES  57 

matter  if  the  small  hours  grew  larger,  all  knew  that  with  the 
return  of  daylight  the  great  wagon  would  be  at  the  door  and 
every  last  soul  of  them  would  be  bundled  in  to  make  the  entire 
tour  of  the  grounds.  Every  member  of  the  Burnham  house- 
hold was  required  to  make  a  survey  of  the  proposition  as  it 
stood  each  morning.  This  principle  of  a  common  point  of  view 
for  all  workers  on  a  project  was  one  that  Mr.  Burnham  carried 
out  in  all  his  work,  even  to  the  end  of  his  life.  It  was  one  of  the 
reasons  of  his  success. 

The  wide  acquaintance  with  all  the  factors  that  go  to  create 
a  building  —  with  architects,  landscape  architects,  sculptors, 
painters,  decorators,  and  contractors  —  proved  invaluable  to 
Mr.  Burnham  in  later  life.  Among  the  multitude  of  people  as- 
sociated with  him  in  the  work,  he  found  the  men  who  were  to 
make  his  staff  for  private  work.  Also  he  gained  a  knowledge  of 
the  temperaments  and  capacities  of  the  men  on  whom  he  af- 
terwards called  to  assist  him  in  pubUc  projects.  Moreover, 
he  had  his  own  architectural  taste  and  aims  directed  and  cul- 
tivated. 

Especially  he  formed  friendships  that  were  to  enrich  and 
ennoble  his  after  life,  giving  to  him,  as  he  also  gave  to  them, 
encouragement  and  support  in  struggles  to  attain  always  the 
best  things.  With  them  he  saw  the  vision  and  in  company 
with  them  he  worked,  not  merely  for  the  present,  but  al- 
ways for  the  future.  That  future  was  to  him  as  large  and  fine 
as  the  human  mind  could  conceive.  Herein  was  another  ele- 
ment of  his  success.  He  not  only  saw  farther  than  others  at  the 
beginning;  but  in  a  varying  measure  he  was  able  to  make  others 
partakers  in  his  visions. 

One  of  the   productive    friendships  was  wdth  Theodore 


58  FRIENDSHIPS  OF  THE  FAIR  ' 

Thomas.  In  scale  with  the  high  ideals  of  the  Fair,  the  manage- 
ment secured  the  Theodore  Thomas  Orchestra  to  give  daily 
concerts.  For  reasons  of  their  own  Steinway  &  Sons  were  not 
among  the  exhibitors.  But  the  contracts  made  with  foreign 
artists  gave  to  them  the  right  to  name  the  instruments  on 
which  those  artists  should  play.  The  music-instrument  manu- 
facturers took  the  stand  before  the  National  Committee  that 
only  instruments  represented  in  the  Exposition  should  be  used, 
and  that  organization  took  up  the  fight.  The  Chicago  Com- 
mittee, appalled  by  the  dropping  of  receipts  caused  by  the 
panic  of  1893,  succumbed  to  the  lure  of  cutting  expenses  by 
dropping  the  concerts.  Mr.  Thomas  sympathized  with  the 
manufacturers,  but  was  in  duty  bound  to  maintain  his  con- 
tracts with  the  artists  and  to  protect  them  in  their  rights.  Mr. 
Burnham  and  Mr.  Ellsworth  fought  Mr.  Thomas's  battles;  but 
the  latter,  after  securing  the  carrying-out  of  the  contracts  with 
the  musicians,  resigned.  Nothing  ties  men  together  tighter 
than  fighting  side  by  side,  and  after  that  Thomas  and  Bum- 
ham  became  the  firmest  of  friends,  to  their  personal  enjoyment 
and  to  the  benefit  of  Chicago,  as  the  sequel  proves. 

The  year  after  the  Fair  came  the  expiration  of  the  first  three 
years'  guarantee  of  the  fifty-two  men  who  underwrote  the  cost 
of  the  Thomas  Orchestra.  Chicago  was  in  the  midst  of  a  deep 
financial  depression,  and  the  orchestra  was  losing  the  entire 
guarantee  fund  of  $50,000  a  year.  Added  to  these  dishearten- 
ing circumstances  were  the  continuous  attacks  of  the  "Chi- 
cago Chronicle,"  growing  out  of  the  piano  controversy  during 
the  Fair.  At  this  juncture  Bryan  Lathrop  came  to  the  front, 
and  Burnham  joined  the  board  of  trustees  as  reorganized.  Be- 
ing a  great  beUever  in  the  mollifying  and  money-raising  elTi- 


THE  THOMAS  ORCHESTRA  59 

cacy  of  dinners,  Burnham  organized  three  such  feasts  for  pay- 
ing off  deficits  as  they  occurred. 

In  1903,  when  the  Thomas  Orchestra  seemed  about  to  go 
under,  Burnham  organized  a  syndicate  of  ten  men  to  buy  the 
Leroy  Payne  property,  next  north  of  the  Railway  Exchange, 
each  man  putting  in  310,000,  and  all  uniting  in  giving  a  mort- 
gage for  $350,000.  To  the  Orchestral  Association  the  land 
was  offered  at  cost.  The  offer  was  accepted;  subscriptions  for 
3650,000  were  obtained  by  Messrs.  Burnham,  Bryan  Lathrop, 
and  C.  N.  Fay;  plans  drawn  by  Robard  were  contributed  by 
Mr.  Burnham;  the  building  was  constructed  and  was  mort- 
gaged to  pay  the  remainder  of  the  cost.^ 

The  basis  of  Mr.  Burnham's  friendship  with  artists  was  his 
genuine  and  whole-hearted  appreciation  of  their  creative  abili- 
ties. His  friendship  for  John  Root  was  firmly  grounded  on  his 
admiration  of  Mr.  Root's  qualities  as  an  artist,  and  when  he 
lauded  his  partner's  abilities  to  clients  he  did  so  with  a  con- 
viction that  transcended  all  thoughts  of  money-making. 

In  the  case  of  his  friendship  with  Augustus  Saint-Gaudens, 
there  was  of  course  no  question  of  money.  Like  Richardson, 
Burnham  regarded  the  sculptor's  taste  as  supreme.  During  the 
work  on  the  Fair  he  had  occasion  to  see  the  true  modesty  and 
nice  discrimination  Saint-Gaudens  displayed  in  refraining  from 
accepting  commissions  for  himself,  and  with  fine  appreciation 
assigning  to  his  fellow-sculptors  the  work  which  each  was  best 
fitted  to  execute.  It  may  be  answered  that  Saint-Gaudens's 
genius  would  never  respond  to  whip  and  spur,  and  that  to  re- 


'  C.  N.  Fay's  article  on  the  Thomas  Orchestra  in  The  Outlook  for 
January  22,  1910.  See  also  the  history  of  the  Thomas  Orchestra,  by  Philo 
Otis. 


60  FRIENDSHIPS  OF  THE  FAIR 

quire  work  to  be  completed  by  a  certain  date  would  have  meant 
no  work  at  all.  But  it  took  a  fine  control  to  forego  the  great 
opportunity  to  be  represented  after  the  manner  of  his  choice 
in  an  assemblage  of  sculptors  such  as  never  before  had  been 
gathered  together  in  America.* 

On  the  walls  of  Mr.  Bumham's  home  hung  —  as  they  still 
hang  —  large  photographs  of  Saint-Gaudens's  standing  figure 
of  Lincoln  and  the  Puritan;  and  on  his  mantel  stood  an  original 
of  the  head  designed  for  the  Henry  Adams  Monument  in  Rock 
Creek  Cemetery  in  Washington,  perhaps  the  greatest  work  of 

'  Saint-Gaudens  says:  "Mr.  Burnham  was  extremely  anxious  that  I 
should  undertake  the  entire  development  of  the  sculpture  of  the  Exposition. 
But  this  was  entirely  out  of  the  question.  I  have  deeply  to  regret  that  my 
direct  relation  to  the  sculpture  I  was  forced  to  confine  to  the  figure  of  Colum- 
bus in  front  of  the  entrance  to  the  Administration  Building,  even  there 
acting  only  in  a  purely  advisory  capacity.  My  pupil,  Miss  Mary  Lawrence 
(now  Mrs.  Francois  M.  L.  Tonetti),  modelled  and  executed  it,  and  to  her 
goes  all  the  credit  of  the  virility  and  breadth  of  treatment  which  it  revealed. 

"Mr.  Burnham  arranged,  however,  that  I  should  become  a  general  ad- 
viser regarding  the  whole  scheme.  Under  these  conditions  I  suggested  the 
making  of  the  colossal  statue  of  Liberty  [The  Republic]  in  the  lagoon,  by 
Daniel  Chester  French.  The  scheme  for  the  peristyle  opening  out  on  the 
lake  is  also  an  enlargement  on  a  far  nobler  scale,  of  a  line  of  columns,  each 
representing  a  State,  which  I  suggested  for  that  place,  and  which  pleased 
Mr.  Burnham  greatly. 

"The  monumental  fountain  at  the  other  end  we  also  decided  on  at  that 
time,  and  Mr.  Burnham  desired  that  I  should  execute  it.  For  this  fountain 
I  had  in  mind  one  or  two  schemes.  But  in  the  consideration  of  calls  on  me 
I  agreed  to  undertake  it  only  on  condition  that  I  could  be  helped  by  Mac- 
Monnies.  MacMonnies  decided  that  he  would  rather  not.  I  then  urged  that 
the  execution  be  placed  in  his  hands,  and  there  was  no  other  piece  of  work 
with  which  I  have  been  associated  as  adviser  that  has  approached  this  in 
the  satisfaction  it  has  given  me.  It  seemed  to  fit  absolutely  with  his  tem- 
perament, with  his  appreciation  of  the  joy  of  life,  beauty,  and  happiness,  and 
I  consider  his  composition  as  a  whole,  and  particularly  the  central  motive 
of  the  boat,  the  rowing  maidens,  the  young  figure  of  America  on  top,  the 
most  beautiful  conception  of  a  fountain  of  modern  times,  west  of  the  Cas- 
pian Mountains.  It  was  the  glorification  of  youth,  cheerfulness,  and  the 
American  spirit,  and  I  think  it  is  a  calamity  greatly  to  be  deplored  that  it 
should  have  gone  to  ruin.  It  would  have  made  a  remarkable  monument  to 
that  extraordinary  exhibition."   {Reminiscences,  vol.  ii,  p.  73.) 


BUST  FROM  TIIK  ADAMS  MKMOlUAr,  AT  VVA.SHJNOTOiN  BY 
AUGUSTUS  SAINT-GAUDENS 


THE  ADAMS  MONUMENT  61 

sculpture  in  this  country  or  of  its  generation  an^^vherc.^  One 
day  Mr.  Bumham  was  calling  on  Mr.  Saint-Gaudens,  and, 
while  waiting  for  the  sculptor  to  return,  amused  himself  by 
piecing  together  some  fragments  lying  on  the  floor  and  appar- 
ently dashed  down  in  a  moment  of  impatience  over  the  result 
of  the  day's  labors.'^  The  puzzle  took  the  form  of  the  head  for 
the  Adams  Monument,  at  which  Mr.  Bumham  was  gazing 
with  awe  and  admiration  when  Mr.  Saint-Gaudens  entered. 
"So  you  care  for  it?"  asked  the  reassured  sculptor.  "I'll  put 
it  together  and  have  a  cast  made  for  you."  And  so  he  did  — 
the  only  replica  ^  of  the  work.  There  in  the  room  that  repre- 
sented the  perfect  peace  of  home  life  stood  the  embodiment  of 
the  insistent  question  that  runs  through  all  the  ages,  pagan  and 
Christian  —  if  a  man  die  shall  he  live  again?  In  other  and 
later  works  the  sculptor  has  sought  to  give  an  answer  to  the 
unanswerable  question;  but  in  this  he  simply  asks  it,  leaving 
to  each  one  who  approaches  it  his  own  answer.* 

*  "  I  know  of  no  analogous  work  so  profound  in  sentiment,  so  exalted  in 
its  art,  and  executed  by  methods  so  simple  and  broad,  since  the  most  telling 
sculpture  of  the  Middle  Ages.  In  me  personally  it  awakens  deeper  emotion 
than  any  other  modern  work  of  art."  (Gaston  Migeon,  in  the  Paris  Arl  and 
Decoration,  quoted  in  the  Reminiscences,  vol.  i,  p.  366.) 

^  "I've  demolished  the  figure  several  times,  and  now  it's  all  going  at 
once."    (Reminiscences,  vol.  i,  p.  361.) 

'  After  the  sculptor's  death  Mr.  Bumham  had  a  copy  of  the  replica  made 
for  Mrs.  Saint-Gaudens,  and  Herbert  Adams  has  the  third  and  last. 

*  "He  [Henry  Adams]  was  apt  to  stop  there  often  to  see  what  the  figure 
had  to  tell  him  that  was  new;  but  in  all  that  it  had  to  say,  he  never  thought 
of  questioning  what  it  meant.  He  supposed  its  meaning  to  be  the  one  com- 
monplace about  it  —  the  oldest  idea  known  to  human  thought  .  .  .  The 
interest  of  the  figure  was  not  in  its  meaning,  but  in  the  response  of  the 
observer.  As  Adams  sat  there  numbers  of  people  came  .  .  .  and  all  wanted 
to  know  its  meaning.  Most  took  it  for  a  portrait  statue  .  .  .  The  only  ex- 
ceptions were  the  clergy,  who  taught  a  lesson  even  deeper.  One  after  an- 
other brought  companions  there,  and  apparently  fascinated  by  their  own 
reflection,  broke  out  passionately  against  the  expression  they  felt  in  the 
figure  of  despair,  of  atheism,  of  denial.  Like  the  others  the  priest  saw  only 


62  FRIENDSHIPS  OF  THE  FAIR 

Mr.  Saint-Gaudens  was  a  man  of  few  words,  but  firm  con- 
victions. Silent  and  even  reticent  as  to  matters  that  did  not 
concern  his  art,  generous  and  appreciative  in  the  case  of  honest 
and  capable  work,  quick  to  discern  ability  and  promise,  he 
hated  pretence  and  was  impatient  of  mediocrity.  These  quali- 
ties made  his  judgments  sure;  so  that  where  he  led  others  might 
safely  follow.  Throughout  the  remainder  of  the  sculptor's  life 
Mr.  Burnham  relied  on  him  for  advice  and  counsel;  and  he  was 
never  disappointed. 

Notwithstanding  his  reticence,  Mr.  Saint-Gaudens  was  one 
of  the  most  companionable  of  men.  He  could  express  sym- 
pathy without  words,  whether  in  the  consultation  room  or  at 
table.  WTien  one  tried  to  recall  what  he  said,  one  was  at  a  loss 
to  remember  more  than  an  occasional  pregnant  sentence;  but 
there  was  always  the  sense  of  companionship  and  good-fel- 
lowship. He  let  others  do  the  talking,  but  afterwards  one  dis- 
covered that  he  had  guided  the  conversation.  The  friendship 
between  the  two  men  was  independent  of  time  or  space.  Sep- 
aration did  not  impair  nor  infrequency  of  meetings  blunt  it. 
It  responded  instantly  to  call.  Indeed,  the  mfluence  of  Saint- 
Gaudens  was  abiding  and  permanent  on  Mr.  Burnham,  who 
was  ever  testing  his  o\sti  ideas  by  the  criterion  of  how  his  friend 
would  look  at  the  problem.  Saint-Gaudens  counted  his  visits 
to  the  Fair  among  the  happy  experiences  of  his  life.   "The 

what  he  brought.  Like  all  great  artists,  Saint-Gaudens  held  up  the  mirror 
and  no  more.  The  American  layman  had  lost  sight  of  ideals;  the  American 
priest  had  lost  sight  of  faith."  (The  Education  of  Henry  Adams,  p.  329.) 

The  interpretation  in  the  text  is  one  of  several  given  to  the  author  by 
Mr.  Saint-Gaudens  during  a  conversation  on  a  subject  he  shunned  talking 
about  as  Beethoven  would  have  hesitated  to  talk  about  one  of  his  sym- 
phonies, which  speak  their  own  language.  Works  of  art  are  not  to  be  con- 
lined  by  words;  their  appeal  is  directly  to  the  emotions. 


^ 


WASHINGTON:  THE  SENATE  PARK  iluMM  o-n  l^ 
GARDEN^  I'  KNTHKJ 


I'liil  ,  -HM\\  IM,,  UN  nil.  i:\M    H.  W  I  v|     \v[-.    HIE  CAPITOL  GKIU  !■    \Mi  i  Mn\  -I  \J|i>\  (BIGHT).  THE  MALL  LEADING  TO  THE  WASHINGTON  MONUMENT 
JM  "I.N  MEMUHIAL   K>\J  THE  MEMUIUAL  UIUDUL  (LEFT);    AND.  ON  Till.  MtHTH  In  SOUTH  AXIS,  THE  WHITE  HOUSE  GROUP 
THE  MONUMENT  GARDENS,  AND  THE  MEMORIAL  TO  THE  MAKERS  OF  THE  CONSTITUTION 
A  boulevard  along  tbe  rorainiTciul  wHlcr-fronl  leads  1o  ihf  Army  Wur  College  (lower  centre).     Eoal  PotiJiunc  Park  (lefl  centre)  is  under  developmpntasa  plaj-paik.     From  o  rendering  bj  Jules  GuirUi 


» 


FRANCIS  DAVIS  MILLET  63 

days  I  passed  there,"  he  writes,  "hnger  in  the  memory  hke 
a  glorious  dream,  and  it  seems  impossible  that  such  a  vision 
can  ever  be  recalled  in  its  poetic  grandeur  and  elevation. 
Certainly  it  has  stood  far  beyond  any  of  the  expositions,  great 
as  they  have  been,  that  have  succeeded  it." 

Francis  D.  Millet  —  Frank  Millet,  as  he  was  known  the 
world  around  —  was  another  man  who  at  this  time  entered 
permanently  into  Mr.  Burnham's  affections.  Mr.  Millet  had 
a  genius  for  friendship.  Probably  there  was  no  club  in  the 
world  into  which  he  could  drop  without  fmding  a  friend.  Pos- 
sessed of  rare  gifts  as  a  painter  and  a  writer,  a  drummer-boy  in 
the  Civil  War  and  a  correspondent  of  great  London  and  Ameri- 
can newspapers  in  the  wars  of  the  Near  and  Far  East,  demo- 
cratic to  the  last  degree  and  with  a  heart  that  vibrated  in  sym- 
pathy with  every  person  in  distress,  ready  to  abandon  instantly 
his  owTi  pursuits  to  aid  one  who  needed  help,  Frank  Millet  was 
one  of  those  rare  men  whose  friendship  is  a  great  acquisition. 
There  was  no  person  however  exalted  and  no  person  however 
humble  who  did  not  respond  to  his  genial  humor,  always  with 
a  smack  of  the  soil,  or  who  could  resist  the  charm  of  his  shrewd, 
common-sense  way  of  looking  at  things.  He  had  a  story  and  an 
experience  for  every  occasion,  and  withal  his  modesty  was  so 
innate  that  he  was  never  the  hero  —  although  often  the  victim 
—  of  his  own  narratives.  His  paintings  have  a  place  in  many 
galleries  on  both  sides  of  the  Atlantic;  but  he  never  gave  up  to 
self  what  was  meant  for  mankind.  For  that  very  reason  he 
did  not  reach  so  high  or  so  permanent  a  place  in  art  as  his  abil- 
ities if  fully  cultivated,  and  his  indefatigable  industry,  would 
have  given  him.  So  it  is  that  he  lived  mainly,  and  highly,  in 
the  hearts  of  his  friends. 


64  FRIENDSHIPS  OF  THE  FAIR 

It  has  already  been  told  how  he  stepped  into  the  breach  to 
take  up  the  work  of  decoration  at  the  Fair.  Another  side  of  his 
versatile  nature  was  evidenced  when  it  became  necessary  to 
resort  to  all  sorts  of  expedients  to  stimulate  the  gate-receipts 
brought  low  by  the  panic  of  1893.  He  became  director  of  pub- 
licity and  with  the  aid  of  William  E.  Curtis  got  up  fake  attrac- 
tions calculated  to  draw  the  crowd.  With  the  Prince  of  Jolo 
as  the  centre,  they  held  great  reviews,  where  a  regiment  or  two 
of  soldiers  were  swelled  into  an  army  by  marching  them 
around  and  around  the  big  buildings.  Again  they  placed  the 
dusky  potentate  on  a  barge  filled  with  colored  musicians  from 
Clark  Street  and  towed  him  and  his  improvised  suite  through 
the  canals,  so  that  all  visitors  might  have  a  view  of  royalty. 
Then,  too,  these  impromptu  impresarios  staged  sanguinary 
combats  among  the  denizens  of  the  Midway,  where  bladderfuls 
of  blood  from  the  stockyards  did  service  for  the  human  gore 
seemingly  shed  in  profusion.  Curtis  wrote  letters  to  the  Chi- 
cago papers  protesting  against  these  cruel  and  inhuman  sports, 
falsely  so  called;  and  thereupon  people  flocked  to  see  the  bar- 
baric encounters.  Such  were  the  dire  straits  to  which  the  ebb- 
ing tide  of  visitors  brought  the  pubUcity  conspirators. 

The  Fair  ended,  Mr.  Millet  projected  a  record  of  the  great 
achievement  which  should  be  in  its  way  as  fine  as  the  Exposi- 
tion itself.  Colored  illustrations,  beautiful  in  design  and  exe- 
cution, were  arranged  for  and  a  number  of  them  made;  but  the 
newly  developed  half-tone,  made  cheaply  from  the  photograph, 
satisfied  public  taste,  and  enterprising  pubUshers  quickly  oc- 
cupied the  field,  making  the  venture  unsuccessful.  Mr.  Biuti- 
ham,  from  a  sense  of  honor  and  not  because  of  any  real  responsi- 
bility, took  upon  himself  the  loss  —  between  twenty  and  thirty 


CHARLES  FOLLEN  McklM 


CHARLES  FOLLIN  McKIM  65 

thousand  dollars  —  having  to  show  for  it  only  the  few  water- 
colors  which  found  a  place  on  the  walls  of  his  home. 

Of  all  the  friendships  that  grew  out  of  these  mind-expanding 
days,  the  one  which  had  the  greatest  influence  on  Air.  Bum- 
ham's  after  work  and  achievement  was  the  companionship  of 
Charles  F.  McKim.  One  trait  was  common  to  the  two  men  — 
an  indomitable  will.  Burnham  demanded  perfection;  McKim 
furnished  it.  McKim  could  and  often  did  change  Bumham's 
mind.  No  one  ever  changed  McKim's  mind;  because  he  never 
expressed  it  until  he  had  got  at  the  essence  of  his  problem. 
That  being  settled  there  could  be  no  change.  Constantly  he 
would  say,  "You  can  compromise  anything  but  the  essence."  ^ 
To  him  an  architectural  problem  was  a  siun  in  arithmetic,  an 
equation  in  algebra,  a  proposition  in  geometry;  and  as  in  math- 
ematics he  began  by  reducing  the  problem  to  its  lowest  terms. 
Again  the  problem  was  a  statement  to  be  expressed  clearly, 
simply,  directly,  with  every  sentence  grammatical  in  form,  and 
the  whole  infused  with  the  charm  that  comes  from  nice  choice 
of  words,  balance  of  phrases,  and  only  such  ornament  as  is  nec- 
essary to  give  grace  as  well  as  force. 

McKim  was  not  only  unchangeable,  but  he  was  also  insistent 
and  persistent.  Once  his  mind  was  made  up  as  to  the  course  to 
be  pursued,  he  bent  every  energy  to  attain  his  object  —  and 
did  not  rest  until  his  warfare  was  accomplished.  Saint-Gaudens 
speaks-  of  his  "rodent-like  determination."   So  quiet,  so  per- 

1  This  aphorism  McKim  would  ascribe  sometimes  to  Seth  Low,  some- 
times to  Elihu  Root,  and  occasionally  to  John  Cadwallader.  It  was  his 
motto.  Saint-Gaudens's  motto  was:  "It  does  n't  make  much  difference 
what  you  do;  it's  the  way  you  doit  that  counts."  Bumham's  was:  "Ye  shall 
know  the  truth  and  the  truth  shall  make  you  free";  only  he  preferred  to 
change  the  quotation  to  "set  you  free." 

'  Reminiscences,  vol.  ii,  p.  284. 


66  FRIENDSHIPS  OF  THE  FAIR 

suasive,  so  seemingly  yielding,  so  courteous  to  suggestion  was 
he  that  one  was  often  deceived  into  thinking  he  was  about  to 
surrender,  when  in  truth  he  was  simply  gathering  his  forces  for 
a  new  attack.  " Charles  the  Charmer"  and  "Blarney  Charles" 
Saint-Gaudens  called  him,  and  rightly,  for  with  clients  he  was 
the  gentlest  revolutionist  that  ever  overthrew  a  dynasty  of 
pretentious  mediocrity  and  bad  taste.  His  startling  innova- 
tions were  supported  by  apt  illustration,  pertinent  similes  and 
a  quiet  wit;  executed  work  always  left  his  client  convinced.  He 
was  an  expensive  man  to  deal  with;  but  the  money  went  into 
the  work,  very  Uttle  of  it  getting  into  his  own  pockets.^  What- 
ever his  hands  turned  out  proved  to  be  a  work  of  art  possessed 
of  immortal  charm.  He  had  the  gift  of  taking  his  conceptions 
out  of  the  category  of  time  and  placing  them  among  the  works 
that  belong  to  the  ages.  To  know  him,  to  be  associated  with 
him  in  daily  intercourse  over  a  common  work  of  the  largest, 
finest  scope  and  character  was  a  liberal  education. 

Into  Burnham's  life  McKim  came  to  fill  the  void  left  by 
John  Root's  death.  Burnham  was  ready  for  the  advance.  Root 
was  romantic,  versatile,  impressionable.  He  could  never  be- 
come a  great  musician,  his  teacher  said,  because  he  had  too 
ready  an  ear.  So  in  architecture  he  lacked  discipline  and  con- 
viction. He  had  never  thought  things  through.  On  the  con- 
trary, McKim,  born  of  martyrs  for  conscience'  sake,  educated 
in  the  best  schools  of  the  world,  on  money  taken  out  of  the 
meagre  means  of  his  self-denying  father,  fighting  his  way  to 
success,  not  by  yielding  to  popular  fancy,  but  by  bringing  men 


'  After  a  life  of  work  for  the  wealthiest  of  clients,  he  left  a  fortune  of  but 
$200,000,  the  life-use  of  which  he  gave  to  his  daughter,  naming  the  American 
Academy  in  Rome  as  his  residuary  legatee. 


REVIVAL  OF  COLONIAL  ARCHITECTURE      67 

of  means  to  realize  the  value  of  the  things  that  endure,  McKim 
came  as  an  answer  to  all  those  strivings  and  longings  which 
were  latent  in  Burnham's  nature. 

Burnham  was  a  Roman  of  the  Augustinian  age  —  a  great 
builder,  seeking  seK-expression  in  works  of  power  and  dignity 
and  grandeur.  So  it  was  that  when  McKim,  putting  aside  all 
other  work,  gave  himself  completely  to  the  Fair,  he  worked  so 
quietly,  so  persuasively,  so  insistently,  that  he  became  the  guid- 
ing and  controlling  force.  "He  was  my  right-hand  man,"  said 
Burnham,  years  later.  Probably  no  one  —  not  even  McKim 
himself  —  realized  at  that  time  that  the  unobtrusive,  modest, 
hesitant  man  had  begun  to  build  a  firm  foundation  under  the 
structure  of  American  architecture,  a  foundation  made  up  of 
materials  gathered  from  the  best  of  all  ages,  suited  to  the  needs 
of  a  rich  and  powerful  nation,  and,  best  of  all,  used  by  the 
fathers  of  the  Repubhc  and  so  made  a  part  of  our  great  inher- 
itance from  them.^  Small  wonder  is  it  that  McKim  from  then 
on  exercised  a  dominant  influence  on  the  career  of  Burnham, 
always  avid  for  the  enduring  things.^ 

'  "As  a  firm  I  am  sure  we  were  about  the  earliest  exponents  of  the  re- 
naissance of  the  Colonial.  In  1876,  before  Bigelow  left  the  firm  and  while 
Stanford  White  was  still  with  Richardson,  we  four  men,  McKim,  Mead, 
Bigelow,  and  White,  made  what  we  always  called  our  celebrated  trip  to 
New  England,  for  the  purpose  of  seeing  and  making  drawings  of  the  best 
examples  of  Colonial  work.  This  trip  included  Marblehead,  Salem,  New- 
buryport  and  Portsmouth;  and  there  are  still  in  existence,  in  our  scrap- 
book,  drawings  made  on  that  trip.  I  think  from  that  date  we  may  be  said 
to  have  been  launched  on  our  classic  renaissance  course,  from  which  we 
have  never  swerved."  (Letter  from  William  R.  Mead  to  the  author, 
April  11,  1918.) 

2  To  McKim  Burnham  wrote  on  January  11,  1893: 

"My  dear  Charles:  Again  I  thank  you  for  happy  memories.  So  many 
cluster  round  your  loved  name  in  my  mind  now,  I  cannot  commence  to 
count  them.  You  reserve  nothing;  but  all  comes  to  your  friend, 

"D.  H.  Burnham." 


68  FRIENDSHIPS  OF  THE  FAIR 

There  was  one  quality  that  all  these  friends  possessed  in  com- 
mon—  joy  in  living.  Through  them  all  —  Thomas,  Saint- 
Gaudens,  Millet,  McKrm,  Burnham  —  ran  the  pagan  strain 
characteristic  of  the  artist.  No  matter  what  their  ancestry, 
they  had  none  of  the  austerity  of  the  Puritan.  They  realized 
the  richness  and  beauty  of  life.  They  used  the  wealth  of  clients 
to  promote  the  joyousness  and  fineness  of  living.  They  rose 
above  the  trammels  and  sordidness  of  material  things  and  lived 
in  the  reahn  of  the  spirit.  To  them  the  amenities  of  life  were 
worth  seeking  first  of  all.  To  them  the  Chicago  Fair  was  an 
opportunity  to  express  their  feelings  to  the  world,  and  they 
used  it  to  the  full  —  and  with  great  success. 


THEODORE  THOMAS 


CHAPTER  VI 

RECOGNITION 

IN  recognition  of  the  great  benefit  to  architecture,  sculp- 
ture, and  painting  that  had  resulted  from  his  connection 
with  the  World's  Columbian  Exposition  —  so  the  invita- 
tion read  —  Mr.  Bumham's  fellow-architects  and  the  citizens 
of  New  York  gave  a  dinner  on  March  25,  1893.  The  dinner 
meant  that  New  York,  although  balked  in  its  desire  to  have  the 
Fair  located  in  that  city,  determined  to  give  to  the  Chicago 
project,  then  approaching  completion,  whole-hearted  and  en- 
thusiastic support. 

It  was  a  very  different-minded  gathering  from  the  one  Mr. 
Bumham  had  entertained  two  years  before,  when  he  pleaded 
with  the  New  York  architects  to  give  their  cooperation  and 
support,  thereby  seizing  the  opportunity  to  do  a  great  service 
to  the  Nation  and  at  the  same  time  advance  the  cause  of  art  in 
America.  That  moment  was  selected  when  the  artistic  success 
of  the  Fair  was  assured:  the  artists  had  finished  their  work  and 
knew  it  was  good;  before  the  gates  were  opened  to  the  public 
they  assembled  to  give  recognition  to  the  achievement  and  to 
the  men  who  brought  about  the  seemingly  impossible  by  mak- 
ing the  desert  shores  of  Lake  Michigan  blossom  with  a  supreme 
conquest  over  nature  and  all  material  obstacles;  and,  what  was 
still  more  notable,  by  securing  the  cooperation  and  thorough 
team-work  of  the  artists  of  America. 

Hidden  in  the  crowd  at  the  lower  tables  were  Charles  Mc- 
Kim,  Frank  Millet,  and  Augustus  Saint-Gaudens,  who,  with 


70  RECOGNITION 

Mr.  Rowland  and  ]\lr.  Carey,  planned  and  arranged  the  din- 
ner, and  who  quietly  enjoyed  their  handiwork.  The  report 
printed  in  the  "New  York  Tribune"  reproduced  the  spirit  of 
the  occasion,  where  the  flow  of  humor  gave  a  life  and  vivacity 
quite  unusual  in  testimonials. 

Upon  Mr.  Burnham  [the  report  says]  has  devolved  a  great 
degree  of  responsibihty  during  the  last  three  years.  His  meth- 
ods have  been  characterized  by  superlative  coolness  and  di- 
rectness of  purpose.  Under  his  guiding  hand  have  arisen  that 
cluster  of  buildings  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Michigan  which,  in  their 
completed  state,  will  be  a  surprise  to  the  art  critics  of  two 
hemispheres. 

The  testimonial,  as  all  will  admit,  was  most  appropriately 
bestowed.  Those  who  witnessed  the  scene  in  the  Madison 
Square  Concert  Hall  last  evening  will  testify  that  no  honor  was 
ever  more  modestly  received. 

It  was  a  distinguished  assemblage  of  men  who  joined  in 
doing  honor  to  the  guest  of  the  evening.  At  the  main  table 
were  Richard  M.  Hunt,  who  presided;  Charles  EUot  Norton, 
Joseph  H.  Choate,  William  Lindsay,  Lyman  J.  Gage,  Henry  E. 
Howland,  Charles  Dudley  Warner,  J.  S.  Norton,  WiUiam  D. 
Howells,  Marshall  Field,  General  Horace  Porter,  Abram  S. 
Hewitt,  Commodore  Henry  Erben,  Ferdinand  W.  Peck,  Henry 
Villard,  Herbert  W.  Ladd,  Dr.  David  H.  Greer,  Parke  Godwin, 
Daniel  C.  Gihnan,  William  R.  Ware,  Henry  G.  Marquand, 
ex-Senator  Warner  Miller,  and  J.  Seaver  Page.^ 

*  At  the  other  tables  were:  James  W.  Alexander,  Francis  R.  Appleton, 
William  W.  Appleton,  D.  Maitland  Armstrong,  E.  EUery  Anderson,  Gorton 
W.  Allen,  Thomas  Allen,  Edwin  B.  Adams,  Charles  T.  Barney,  Charles  C. 
Beaman,  Edwin  H.  Blashfield,  William  Bispham,  Cornelius  N.  Bliss,  Ed- 
ward C.  Boardman,  Edwin  Booth,  J.  G.  Brown,  Robert  W.  Brown,  William 
T.  Bull,  Prescott  Hall  Butler,  Howard  Russell  Butler,  Peter  T.  Barlow, 
John  E.  Brooks,  Clarence  Clough  Buel,  William  C.  Brownell,  Noah  Brooks, 
H.  C.  Bunner,  Edward  Burnett,  Joseph  B.  Bishop,  Charles  I.  Berg,  A.  T. 
Cabot,  John  L.  Cadwallader,  J.  Cleveland  Cady,  Henry  W.  Cannon,  Wil- 
liam Carey,  Edward  Cary,  Charles  F.  Chichester,  William  C.  Church, 
Thomas  B.  Clarke,  William  F.  Clarke,  Charles  W.  Clinton,  William  A. 


THE  NEW  YORK  DINNER  71 

The  room  was  handsomely  decorated  on  the  floor  with  all 
that  was  green,  and  in  the  galleries  by  all  that  was  beautiful,  as 
the  ladies  who  occupied  the  boxes  will  understand.  The  main 
table  was  across  the  front  of  the  stage.  Back  of  this  was  a 
cluster  of  palms,  behind  which  was  the  orchestra.  And  the 
music,  soft  and  sweet  and  beautiful,  came  out  of  the  palms. 
In  front  of  the  chau-man  was  a  large  cluster  of  American 

CofTin,  Beverly  Chew,  Walter  Damrosch,  Melville  C.  Day,  William  E. 
Dodge,  Alexander  W.  Drake,  L.  Clarke  Davis,  Paul  Dana,  John  Du  Fais, 
James  H.  Dunham,  Reginald  DeKoven,  F.  W.  Devoe,  James  W.  Ellsworth, 
F.  E.  Elwell,  Joe  Evans,  William  T.  Evans,  Allen  W.  Evarts,  Loyall  Far- 
ragut,  Alphonse  Fetley,  Daniel  C.  French,  Charles  H.  Farnham,  Charles 
Gordon  Fuller,  R.  Swain  Gifl'ord,  Richard  Watson  Gilder,  Daniel  C.  Gil- 
man,  E.  L.  Godkin,  Charles  W.  Gould,  Lloyd  McK.  Garrison,  Plunkett 
Greene,  Elmer  E.  Garnsey,  William  C.  Gibson,  William  C.  Hall,  H.  J.  Har- 
denbergh,  J.  Henry  Harper,  John  Harper,  George  H.  Hazen,  Peter  Cooper 
Hewitt,  James  J.  Higginson,  Charles  Hitchcock,  George  Hitchcock,  Ripley 
Hitchcock,  Thomas  Hovendcn,  Henry  L.  Higginson,  Louis  AI.  Howland, 
John  E.  Hudson,  Joseph  Howland  Hunt,  Daniel  Huntington,  Charles  L. 
Hutchinson,  Benoni  Irwin,  Joseph  JelTerson,  W.  L.  B.  Jenney,  Eastman 
Johnson,  Robert  U.  Johnson,  Francis  C.  Jones,  H.  Bolton  Jones,  Arthur  W. 
Jones,  A.  W.  Kingman,  David  H.  King,  Jr.,  John  La  Farge,  George  IVL  Lane, 
Francis  Lathrop,  Will  H.  Low,  Forbes  Leith,  Warrington  G.  Lawrence, 
Charles  R.  Lamb,  Charles  F.  McKim,  Henry  R.  Marshall,  Charles  B.  Mac- 
Donald,  William  R.  Mead,  George  von  L.  Meyer,  Brander  Matthews,  Wil- 
lard  Metcalf,  Hoffman  Miller,  Francis  D.  Millet,  Alfred  Bishop  Mason, 
Joseph  B.  Millet,  Percy  S.  Mallett,  Montagu  Marks,  T.  F.  Miller,  Charles 
V.  Mapes,  Delancy  Nicoll,  Daniel  S.  Newhall,  Thomas  Newbold,  Frederick 
Law  Olmsted,  Stephen  H.  Olin,  Walter  G.  Oakman,  Robert  S.  Peabody, 
Bruce  Price,  Alfred  Parsons,  Wheeler  H.  Peckham,  James  W.  Pinchot, 
Henry  W.  Poor,  A.  P.  Proctor,  William  R.  Richards,  Daniel  G.  Rollins, 
Horace  Russell,  the  Rev.  Dr.  William  R.  Rainsford,  Charles  S.  Reinhart, 
George  L.  Rives,  Robert  H.  Robertson,  Charles  A.  Rich,  Richard  K.  Sheldon, 
John  J.  Sinclair,  Samuel  Spencer,  John  G.  Stearns,  Edmund  C.  Stedman, 
Henry  B.  Stone,  Albert  Stickney,  Philip  Schaff,  Edward  Schell,  Jacob  H. 
Schiff,  Charles  Scribner,  Frank  H.  Scott,  James  A.  Scrymser,  Walter  Shir- 
law,  E.  K.  Sibley,  Edward  E.  Simmons,  William  T.  Smedley,  F.  Hopkinson 
Smith,  Francis  Lynde  Stetson,  Augustus  Saint-Gaudens,  Horace  E.  Scudder, 
WUliam  A.  Stiles,  William  B.  Tuthill,  Hamilton  McK.  Twombly,  Frank 
Thomson,  A.  H.  Thorp,  A^bbott  H.  Thayer,  Louis  C.  Tiffany,  Charles  W. 
Truslow,  Frederick  C.  Thomas,  Walter  Trimble,  John  R.  Thomas,  Henry  R. 
Towne,  Henry  Van  Brunt,  Edward  C.  Waller,  William  R.  Ware,  William 
Walton,  J.  Alden  Weir,  Edmund  Wetmore,  Horace  White,  Thomas  W. 
Wood,  Sir  Henry  Trueman  Wood,  Olin  H.  Warner,  Willard  P.  Ward, 
P.  A.  B.  Widener,  and  C.  B.  Worthington. 


72  RECOGNITION 

Beauty  roses.  It  was  observ^ed  that  Mr.  Bumham  blushed 
several  times  during  the  evening,  though  he  has  only  recently 
come  from  Chicago.  Some  thought  that  the  glow  in  his  face 
was  reflected  from  the  cluster  of  roses  which  stood  before  him. 
But  it  was  never  intimated  that  he  loiew  what  the  artificial 
rosebush  had  in  store  for  him. 

Mr.  Hunt  started  the  speech-making.  He  said  many  pleas- 
ant things  of  the  guest.  Then  he  caused  the  veneer  rosebush  to 
be  removed  and  there  stood  a  loving-cup  with  the  capacity  of 
a  whole  gallon,  and  with  three  handles  to  support  its  convey- 
ance to  the  lips.  It  was  empty  when  it  was  offered  to  Mr.  Burn- 
ham,  but  with  true  American  shrewdness  he  proceeded  to  make 
the  best  of  his  bargain,  and  seizing  a  filled  bottle  of  claret  from 
a  neighbor,  he  poured  the  liquid  into  the  vessel,  took  a  drink, 
and  passed  it  to  Mr.  Hunt.  It  was  pleasant  to  note  the  eager- 
ness with  which  Joseph  H.  Choate,  L>Tnan  J.  Gage,  and  Gen- 
eral Horace  Porter  reached  forward,  each  to  find  a  place  on  one 
of  the  three  handles  of  that  loving-cup.  The  contents  were 
exhausted  when  this  trio  was  ready  to  part  with  it.  Then  some 
one  poured  into  it  a  quart  bottle  of  champagne  and  it  was 
started  in  the  direction  of  Mr.  Howland,  Mr.  Villard,  and  ex- 
Senator  Miller,  who  looked  into  the  empty  cup  and  pronounced 
the  metal  solid  and  pure,  for  that  was  all  there  was  left  for  him 
to  pass  judgment  upon. 

Mr.  Bumham  then  arose  and  spoke,  in  part  as  follows: 
"Could  I  accept  the  honor  bestowed  upon  me  as  if  intended  for 
myseK  alone,  I  would  be  most  unworthy  of  it.  The  names  of 
you  who  greet  me  to-night  are  knowTi  to  all  your  countrjTnen; 
many  of  them  are  household  words.  You  mould  and  du-ect  the 
higher  purposes  of  American  life.  You  have  called  me  here  to 
stamp  some  acts  of  mine  with  approval.  I  am  glad  to  come ;  it 
opens  the  door  for  me  to  tell  you  that  the  artistic  glorj^  of  the 
Exposition  belongs  to  my  brethren  in  architecture,  sculpture 
and  painting.  WTiile  I  deeply  feel  this  honor  and  thank  you  for 
it,  my  friends  and  I  have  come  to  bear  testimony  that  the 
teachings  of  our  fathers  were  not  in  vain,  and  that  their  sons 
still  justify  the  hope  of  their  ancestors  at  the  foundation  of  the 


TO  OANiLLHUUiuGN  C^U BMHAM    _^  j 


-ii     I-  jiTHlri-tli 


THE  LOVING-C.l  P  PRESENTED  TO  MR.  BURNHAM  AT  THE  7vE\\    YORK  DINNER 
From  a  design  for  the  programme  of  toasts,  by  Edwin  Howland  Blashfield 


SELF-SACRIFICES  OF  THE  ARTISTS  73 

Republic.  I  feel  that  undue  prominence  has  been  given  to  the 
mere  quickness  with  which  the  Exposition  has  been  built.  That 
is  not  for  me  the  most  admirable  feature  of  the  enterprise,  for 
in  the  last  decade  or  two  one  could  go  out  on  the  streets  of  a 
great  city  and  collect  a  force  of  engineers  and  draughtsmen  very- 
much  as  formerly  he  hired  mechanics.  The  times  have  multi- 
plied the  corps  of  trained  technical  men  and  we  can  now  in 
months  do  the  former  work  of  years. 

"The  space  of  time  in  which  a  great  work  can  now  be  accom- 
plished is  not  mar\^ellous.  Brain,  muscle,  materials,  and  the 
means  of  rapid  transport  are  instantly  at  command.  If  one  has 
capital  and  a  well-considered  plan,  the  thing  does  itself.  But 
that  which  is  wonderful  and  which  I  can  scarcely  beUeve,  al- 
though I  have  been  in  the  midst  of  it,  is  the  noble,  artistic 
result  which  has  come  from  the  work  of  American  artists  who 
have  had  only  a  few  months'  time  to  prepare  those  ver>^  de- 
signs for  the  great  buildings  of  the  Exposition  which  have  ac- 
tually been  executed  with  httle  change  from  the  sketches  which 
were  presented  in  February,  1891. 

"Called  together  as  they  were,  with  scarcely  a  warning, 
imder  the  stress  of  immediate  need,  given  but  thirty  days  to 
settle  the  elements  of  the  work,  these  men  on  the  day  appointed 
brought  in  the  completed  designs  of  the  structures  as  they 
stand  to-day.  No  one  would  have  believed  that  so  high  a  qual- 
ity of  art,  so  magnificent  a  general  result,  could  have  come  out 
of  such  haste,  even  if  the  masters  of  the  past  had  been  revivi- 
fied to  do  the  work.  Was  it  an  inspiration?  I  think  it  was,  and 
I  ascribe  it  to  the  possession  of  those  deep  lessons  of  our  youth, 
implanted  by  the  old-fashioned  teachings  of  our  fathers  about 
self-sacrifice  and  duty.  In  these  principles  remained  the  in- 
spiration that  made  men  conform  like  brothers  and  harmonize 
their  work;  and  in  the  fu-e  of  such  feeling  their  natures  were 
welded  into  an  instrument  for  the  common  honor  and  glory  of 
our  country-. 

"  Their  temper  has  not  changed  in  the  two  years  past.  They 
have  vied  with  each  other  for  a  common  result  which,  as  indi- 
viduals they  have  subordinated  themselves  to  bring  about ;  in 


74  RECOGNITION 

short,  they  have  been  what  all  Americans  should  be  in  public 
matters  —  unselfish.  (Applause.)  You  know  who  these  men 
are.  They  sit  with  you  to-night.  Each  of  you  knows  the  name 
and  genius  of  him  who  stands  first  in  the  heart  and  confidence 
of  American  artists,  the  creator  of  your  own  parks  and  many 
other  city  parks.  (Applause.)  He  it  is  who  has  been  our  best 
adviser  and  our  common  mentor.  In  the  highest  sense  he 
is  the  planner  of  the  Exposition  —  Frederick  Law  Olmsted. 
(Applause.)  No  word  of  his  has  fallen  to  the  ground  among  us 
since  first  he  joined  us  some  thirty  months  ago.  An  artist,  he 
paints  with  lakes  and  wooded  slopes;  with  la\^Tls  and  banks  and 
forest-covered  hills;  with  mountain-sides  and  ocean  views.  He 
should  stand  where  I  do  to-night,  not  for  his  deeds  of  later 
years  alone,  but  for  what  his  brain  has  wrought  and  his  pen 
has  taught  for  half  a  century. 

"There  were  two  others  in  the  morning  of  this  work;  one  was 
Root,  my  beloved  partner  (applause)  who  fell  just  when  his 
busy  hands  had  shaped  a  plan  which  we  have  followed  ever 
since;  then  Codman  passed  away,  but  until  we  also  go,  they 
will  dwell  with  us;  their  shining  faces  scarce  out  of  sight;  their 
noble  voices  still  ringing  in  the  ears  of  our  souls. 

"I  find  myseK  using  the  words  noble  and  unselfish  when 
I  speak  of  each  of  those  who  wrought  with  me.  I  must  go  on 
with  this.  I  can  find  no  other  fitting  adjectives  for  the  corps. 
Hunt,  its  chaii'man  (applause),  deeply  trained  in  the  knowledge 
of  our  art;  and  its  great  exemplars.  Post,  Peabody,  Van  Brunt, 
Sullivan,  "WTiitehouse,  Jenney,  Beaman,  Cobb,  Atwood  —  and 
Charles  McKim,  our  critic,  counsellor  and  friend;  Saint-Gau- 
dens,  and  Frank  Millet.  (Applause.)  How  one  loves  to  speak 
your  names !  Architects,  painters,  and  sculptors  of  my  country ! 
How  proud  we  are  of  you !  What  can  express  the  deep  sense 
of  obligation  we  are  under  for  your  old-fashioned  devotion  to 
the  country;  for  this  \ictory  of  peace?  If  then,  you  place  upon 
my  acts  the  stamp  of  your  approval,  I  accept  the  honor  with 
humility,  and  I  will  cherish  this  cup  as  a  souvenir  to  recall 
not  alone  the  happy  night  when  I  sat  among  you,  but  also  the 
day  when  so  many  American  artists  joined  together  in  loving 


LIONIZING  A  DANIEL  75 

emulation  and  created  an  epoch,  and  when  their  deeds  illum- 
inated me." 

At  the  close  of  I\Ir.  Burnham's  speech  there  was  great  ap- 
plause, equal  to  that  which  had  resulted  from  an  intermediate 
series  of  stereopticon  illustrations  of  the  buildings  in  Jack- 
son Park,  to  which  Mr.  Burnham's  portrait  had  ser\'ed  as  a 
period. 

In  response  to  the  toast  of  Chicago,  a  brilliant  speech  was 
made  by  James  S.  Norton,  of  that  city,  who  spoke  as  follows: 

"Nothing  could  be  more  gratifying  to  a  Chicago  man  than 
this  noble  tribute  to  Mr.  Burnham;  and  not  merely  because  he 
belongs  to  Chicago,  and  she  is  proud  of  hun,  but  because,  also, 
the  work  which  he  has  done  so  well,  and  which  now  elicits  your 
admiration,  is  largely  her  work.  You  cannot  honor  him  beyond 
his  just  deserts;  and  you  will  not  spoil  him  by  your  approba- 
tion. It  may  be  said  of  him,  as  was  said  of  another,  that  he  has 
earned  his  fame  by  the  arduous  greatness  of  things  done;  and 
such  men  are  not  stultified  by  applause.  It  never  did  hurt  a 
Daniel  to  be  lionized.^  (Laughter  and  applause.)  And  in  hon- 
oring him  you  testify  your  appreciation  of  that  liberal  spirit 
which  has  permitted  him  to  enlist  in  the  great  work  over  which 
he  has  presided,  without  regard  to  local  pride  or  sectional  jeal- 
ousies, the  men  who  best  express  the  constructive  and  artistic 
genius  of  the  age.  Those  marvellous  palaces  which,  untenanted, 
would  justify  a  convocation  of  the  nations,  are  monuments  not 
only  to  the  skill  of  architect  and  artist,  but  also  to  the  bold 
spirit  and  clear  prevision  of  the  men  who  dared  to  set  the  scale 
of  such  a  work.    (Applause.) 

"  This  is,  indeed,  a  new  sensation  for  Chicago.  Hitherto  she 
has  received  from  this  quarter  full  recognition  of  her  claims 
as  a  pork,  beef,  and  grain  market,  and  scant  courtesy  to  her 
aspirations  for  art  and  culture.  That  now,  in  this  city  of  ac- 

*  The  sentiment  printed  on  the  programme  —  e\-idently  the  conceit  of 
Mr.  Hunt  —  was:  "A  director  of  faith  is  good;  but  since  faith  without 
works  is  dead,  a  Director  of  Works  is  better.  The  Daniel  who  now  comes  to 
judgment  may  safely  be  lionized." 


76  RECOGNITION 

complishments,  her  chosen  representative  should  receive  the 
plaudits  of  the  very  elect  for  his  services  to  art,  is  at  least  a 
sweet  surprise.   (Applause.) 

"But  this  makes  easy  and  agreeable  the  duty  which  is  as- 
signed to  me.  I  come,  in  the  friendliest  mood,  to  offer  consola- 
tion for  any  disappointment  which  may  have  resulted  from  the 
location  of  the  Fair.  (Laughter.)  If  you  will  kindly  recall  the 
spirited  controversy  over  that  question,  you  will  remember 
that  New  York  signified  a  willingness.  She  did  not  really  want 
the  Fair,  of  course  —  for  she  has  said  so  since  —  but  she  cer- 
tainly assumed  a  wistful  expression ;  and  when  the  matter  was 
settled  she  did  not  see  the  hand  of  Providence  in  it,  and  had 
her  doubts  about  the  wisdom  of  the  choice  —  doubts  which  she 
did  not  regard  as  confidential.  (Laughter.)  Chicago,  of  course, 
was  elated.  She  was  a  good  deal  smaller  then,  and  it  pleased 
her  to  be  treated  as  a  large  city;  and  she  swelled  up  and  said  the 
size  of  the  job  was  quite  immaterial;  and  now,  like  the  man  who 
won  the  elephant  in  the  raffle,  she  rejoices  that  it  is  no  bigger. 
(Laughter.) 

"And  that  recalls  me  to  my  theme.  Just  think  of  the  expect- 
ant hosts  that  will  descend  upon  that  city.  We  don't  mind  the 
New-Yorkers  so  much,  for  they  won't  expect  anything  of  us 
(laughter),  and  the  slightest  trace  of  gentility  will  give  them  a 
pleasant  surprise.  They  will  look  to  find  our  streets  paved 
with  good  intentions,  and  ordinary  mud  will  be  a  relief  to  them. 
But  what  will  Boston  say  —  Boston  who  writes  to  us  by  way  of 
Albany,  that  she  is  disappointed  in  New  York?  (Laughter.) 
And  Philadelphia  who  once  had  a  little  trouble  of  her  own  — 
what  won't  she  say?  And  then  suppose  we  have  a  flock  of 
crowned  heads  from  over  the  water.  You  would  not  mind  such 
a  thing  at  all.  You  are  accustomed  to  treat  princes  and  poten- 
tates with  an  easy  condescension  that  fascinates  them ;  but  we 
are  lowly  born  and  bashful  (laughter) ;  and  while  we  sympathize 
with  kings  and  queens  and  mean  to  treat  them  'square,'  we 
lack  the  tact  which  enables  you  to  check  undue  familiaiity 
with  a  club.    (Laughter.) 


LIST  OF  GUESTS  AT  THE  NEW  YORK  DINNER  ETCHED  ON  THE  BOTTOM  OF 

LOVING-CUP  PRESENTED  TO  DANIEL  H.  BURNHAM 

Designed  by  Charles  F.  McKim 


NEW  YORK  AND  CHICAGO  77 

"But  above  all,  New  York  is  to  be  congratulated  upon  a  rare 
opportunity  to  show  the  greatness  of  her  soul.  She  is  our  fore- 
most city.  Even  excluding  New  Jersey  and  Long  Island,  she 
is  still  one  of  the  two  largest  cities  in  the  country.  (Laughter 
and  applause.)  She  is  the  pride  of  the  whole  Nation,  and,  by 
the  way,  she  is  not  so  stupid  as  to  be  wholly  unconscious  of  her 
own  superiority.  Even  Rome,  in  all  her  glory,  with  sevenfold 
her  opportunity,  did  not  surpass  her.  She  sat  upon  her  seven 
hills  and  never  hatched  a  President.    (Laughter.) 

"It  has  been  said  that  New  York  is  insular,  self -centered,  in- 
different to  all  things  off  the  island.  Will  it  appear  so  in  the 
coming  season  of  national  pride  and  patriotic  effort?  This 
gathering  to-night  and  the  words  spoken  here  go  far  to  reassure 
us.  It  is  Chicago's  misfortune  that  no  matter  how  unselfishly 
she  may  strive  for  the  success  of  the  Fau",  half  the  world  will 
find  her  motives  wholly  mercenary.  It  is  New  York's  good 
fortune  that  her  help  and  sympathy  cannot  be  misinterpreted. 
(Applause.)  Let  me  commend  this  thought  to  you;  and  let  me 
add  that  with  a  view  to  your  future  happiness  we  cordially  in- 
vite you  to  be  good  to  us.  It  is  not  merely  that  we  need  your 
practical  aid  for  the  Fair  —  of  course  we  need  that  —  but  that 
the  men  who  have  sacrificed  so  much  in  the  cause  that  is  your 
cause  and  that  of  every  citizen  should  have  a  generous  support. 
(Applause.)  I  do  not  speak  by  their  authority.  They  are  not 
asking  for  commendation;  but  they  would  be  strange  men  not 
to  be  stimulated  by  your  appreciation  and  grateful  for  a  hand 
outstretched  in  kindliness.    (Applause.) 

"And  you  have  this  further  consolation,  that  you  have  es- 
caped the  dust  and  din  of  preparation,  and  will  first  see  the 
Fair  complete.  It  will  be  a  sudden,  full  sensation.  You  will 
see  in  all  its  finished  beauty  what  poets  and  artists  have 
vaguely  dreamed,  and  in  that  sight  will  be  a  revelation  of  the 
real  sublimity  of  man's  conceptions  and  the  possible  majesty 
of  his  handiwork.  I  care  not  in  what  spirit  you  may  come. 
Bring  but  the  common  sentiment  of  men,  and  that  first  view 
will  print  a  picture  on  your  memories  that  time  will  not  efface. 
(Applause.) 


78  RECOGNITION 

"And  then,  too,  you  will  see  Chicago  —  the  most  interesting 
city  in  the  world  to  one  who  studies  the  evolution  of  cities. 
Elsewhere  the  phases  of  development  have  succeeded  each 
other  too  slowly  to  be  noted  except  in  part  through  the  imper- 
fect medium  of  history.  There  the  changes  have  come  so  rap- 
idly within  the  field  of  view  that  the  entire  process  may  be 
seen.  The  whole  marvellous  transformation  from  the  trading- 
post  to  the  chosen  theatre  of  a  world's  pageant  has  come  within 
the  range  of  single  lives  yet  far  from  spent.  (Applause.)  We 
look  back  to  find  the  origin  and  explanation  of  Chicago  in  those 
forces  which  fixed  the  natural  highways  of  a  vast  and  fertile 
territory.  We  see  her  now,  a  field  of  prodigious  activities,  a 
marvel  of  brilliant  achievement,  a  turbulent  school  of  sociology. 
It  has  fallen  to  this  generation  to  see  the  elements  of  society  in 
violent  agitation;  and  just  now  the  storm-centre  seems  to  be 
over  Chicago.  What  the  result  may  be  let  him  declare  who 
knows  the  scope  of  wisdom  and  the  limitations  of  folly.  We 
only  know  that  in  that  city  men  are  being  moulded  by  the 
pressure  of  events;  that  the  incessant  urgency  of  life,  adding 
each  day  a  little  to  the  task  of  yesterday,  a  little  also  to  the 
strength  of  yesterday,  is  breeding  a  race  of  men  fit  for  re- 
sponsibilities; and  that  the  same  energy  which  has  made  her 
in  half  a  century  a  great  spectacular  city,  is  now  surely  tending 
toward  the  better  purpose  of  her  life."  (Long-continued  ap- 
plause.) 

Professor  Charles  Eliot  Norton,  who  spoke  for  Architecture, 
Sculpture,  and  Painting,  created  the  surprise  of  the  evening. 
That  the  "belated  Grecian,"  as  Charles  Dudley  Warner  face- 
tiously referred  to  him,  should  have  found  so  much  to  commend 
in  the  Chicago  work,  was  regarded  as  a  veritable  triumph.  He 
called  it  the  height  of  the  attainment  of  American  artists. 
"The  general  design  of  the  grounds  and  of  the  arrangement  of 
the  buildings  was  in  every  respect  noble,  original  and  satis- 
factory, a  work  of  a  fine  art  not  generally  included  in  the  list 


PjRESIDENT  CLEVELAND'S  LETTER  79 

of  poetic  arts,  but  one  of  the  most  important  of  them  all  to 
America  —  that  of  the  landscape  architect.  Of  all  American 
artists,  Frederick  Law  Olmsted,  who  gave  the  design  for  the 
laying  out  of  the  grounds  of  the  World's  Fair,  stands  first  in  the 
production  of  great  works  which  answer  the  needs  and  give 
expression  to  the  life  of  our  immense  and  miscellaneous  de- 
mocracy. The  buildings  which  surround  the  Court  of  Honor, 
so-called,  at  Chicago,  make  a  splendid  display  of  monumental 
architecture.  They  show  how  well  our  ablest  architects  have 
studied  the  work  of  the  past;  and  the  arrangement  of  the 
buildings  according  to  the  general  plan  produces  a  superb  ef- 
fect in  the  successful  grouping  in  harmonious  relations  of  vast 
and  magnificent  structures."  ' 

The  other  toasts  were:  "The  WTiite  City,"  by  Richard 
Watson  Gilder;  "Columbus,"  by  Charles  Dudley  Warner; 
"Our  Country,"  by  William  Lindsay;  "The  Exposition,"  by 
Lyman  J.  Gage;  "New  York,"  by  Horace  Porter;  "The  Rest 
of  the  World, "  by  Joseph  H.  Choate. 

President  Cleveland  by  letter  expressed  his  regret  that  the 
pressure  of  public  business  rendered  it  impossible  for  him  to 

*  Professor  Norton's  admiration  of  the  Fair  was  so  outspoken  at  various 
times  as  to  start  the  rumor  that  he  intended  to  forsake  Shady  Hill  in 
Cambridge  and  remove  to  the  Windy  City.  "Unthinking  optimism  and 
self-willed  pessimism,"  says  a  Cambridge  newspaper,  "tossed  the  rumor 
back  and  forth."  When  appealed  to,  Mr.  Norton  said  the  rumor  grew  out 
of  his  saying  to  William  James  that  if  he  were  a  younger  man  he  should 
like  to  cast  his  lot  in  with  a  city  like  Chicago.  Then  he  said  with  con- 
viction: "I  like  Chicago.   I  like  the  spirit,  the  civic  power  of  the  place." 

After  praising  Mr.  Atwood's  peristyle  and  art  building,  and  Mr.  Olm- 
sted's landscape  work,  he  "said  more  for  Mr.  Burnham's  personal  honor 
than  the  modest  Director  of  Works  would  have  believed  he  or  any  other 
Chicago  man  could  win  from  the  Harvard  professor  who  is  popularly  re- 
puted to  admire  nothing  modern,  not  even  the  modern  man.  But  to  Mr. 
Norton  the  civic  enthusiasm  and  success  of  Chicago  seem  to  be  embodied  in 
Mr.  Burnham." 


80  RECOGNITION 

accept  the  committee's  invitation,  and  added  that  "he  would 
be  glad  to  emphasize,  by  his  presence,  his  own  appreciation  of 
Mr.  Bumham's  services,  were  it  possible." 

During  the  first  part  of  the  dinner,  Mr.  Burnham  was  very 
much  impressed  with  William  D.  Howells,  the  novelist.  "All 
you  said  of  him  in  Boston,"  he  wrote  to  Mr.  Norton,  "came 
back  to  me.  I  fear  he  thought  me  rude,  because  I  used  my 
short  time  well  in  looking  him  over;  but  even  if  he  did,  it  pays 
me  well.  I  never  before  saw  just  such  a  face,  and  ever>'thing 
about  the  man  at  once  fitted  into  my  way  of  thinking  and  lik- 
ing. His  face  is  beautiful." 

So  ended  the  first  occasion  in  the  history  of  this  country 
when  a  member  of  one  of  the  artistic  professions  was  publicly 
honored.  Thereafter  honors  came  thick  and  fast.  In  April, 
McKim  wTote  that  the  New  York  friends  w'anted  him  to  be- 
come a  non-resident  member  of  the  Century  Club,  that  Mecca 
for  the  men  who  have  arrived  in  art,  literature,  and  the  things 
that  thereto  pertain  —  an  invitation  which  he  accepted,  con- 
tinuing his  membership  so  long  as  he  lived.  McKim  further 
announced:  "You  will  be  glad  to  know  that  Yale  intends  to 
give  you  a  scientific  degree  of  value  (through  Judge  Rowland) 
and  Harvard  one  in  the  arts,  in  the  present  year.  So  that  we 
shall  hope  to  see  you  in  the  East  before  the  season  is  far  ad- 
vanced." 

These  degrees  were  conferred  at  the  June  commencements. 
It  is  interesting  to  note  that  the  two  colleges  which  Mr. 
Burnham  as  a  boy  failed  in  his  endeavor  to  enter  were  the 
first  to  recognize  his  achievements. 

The  twenty-seventh  annual  convention  of  the  American 
Institute  of  Architects,  held  at  Chicago  in  July,  1893,  in  the 


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PRESIDENT  OF  INSTITUTE  OF  ARCHITECTS    81 

midst  of  the  Fair,  elected  Mr.  Burnham  president,  the  fifth  in 
the  succession.^ 

'  The  succession  was:  1857-76,  Richard  Upjohn,  New  York;  1877-87, 
Thomas  U.  Walter,  Philadelphia;  1888-91,  Richard  M.  Hunt,  New  York; 
1892-93,  Edward  H.  Kendall,  New  York;  1894-95,  Daniel  H.  Burnham, 
Chicago. 


CHAPTER  VII 

PICKING  UP  THE  THREADS 

1894-1895 

WHEN  the  Fair  closed  in  the  autumn  of  1893,  and 
Mr.  Burnham  started  to  reestabUsh  his  private 
office,  the  country  was  in  the  midst  of  a  financial 
panic  which  slowed  down  business,  although  certain  men  of 
large  means  came  to  realize  that  improved  real  estate  was  the 
surest  investment  and  began  to  act  accordingly.  The  salary 
he  had  received  did  not  pay  his  living  expenses,  and,  with  the 
liability  of  the  uncompleted  book  of  the  Exposition,  he  found 
himself  in  debt. 

First  he  set  about  constituting  the  new  firm  of  D.  H.  Burn- 
ham  &  Co.,  taking  as  partners  Ernest  R.  Graham,  who  had 
been  his  assistant  chief  of  construction,  a  man  of  immense 
energy  and  all-around  capacity;  E.  C.  Shankland,  Chief  Engi- 
neer of  the  Fair,  a  reliable  man  capable  of  hard  work ;  and  Charles 
Atwood,  for  whose  ability  and  brilliancy  as  a  designer  he  had 
unbounded  admiration.  These  men  were  to  have  a  share  in  the 
profits,  but  the  management  of  the  business  Mr.  Burnham  kept 
wholly  in  his  own  hands.  He  also  retained  control  of  his  own 
time,  for  he  foresaw  the  demands  that  outside  work,  such  as 
the  presidency  of  the  Institute,  would  make  upon  him,  and  he 
was  disposed  to  invite  rather  than  repel  public  service.  The 
great  asset  of  the  firm  was  Mr.  Burnham's  reputation  as  the 
best-known  architect  in  America.^ 

1  Mr.  Atwood  had  control,  under  Mr.  Burnham,  of  all  artistic  matters 
appertaining  to  the  business,  including  making  designs;  Mr.  Graham  had 


COMMERCIAL  ARCHITECTURE  83 

After  the  Fair,  as  before  it,  Mr.  Burnham's  firm  was  em- 
ployed largely  with  commercial  structures;  that  is,  with  a  class 
of  buildings  in  which  the  American  architect  has  achieved  his 
greatest  distinction,  and  thereby  has  made  both  his  most  seri- 
ous claim  to  originaUty  and  also  his  most  notable  contribution 
to  the  history  of  architecture.  The  measure  of  success  in  the 
case  of  the  individual  architect  must  be  the  completeness  with 
which  he  has  solved  the  problem  of  utility  combined  with 
agreeableness  of  presentation.  At  all  hazards  he  must  solve  his 
problem  if  he  is  to  continue  to  be  employed.  After  that  the 
question  will  be  as  to  how  far  he  can  control  his  cUent  in  mak- 
ing the  design  lastingly  satisfactory  to  the  trained  eye  and  un- 
derstanding. IVIr.  Burnham  had  a  positive  genius  for  contriv- 
ing a  great  commercial  structure,  whether  retail  store,  office 
building,  or  railway  station,  in  such  mannerfes  to  yield  revenue, 
be  economical  in  operation,  and  have  enduring  qualities.  This 
was  his  own  personal,   distinct  contribution  which  he  shared 

supervision  and  control  of  the  employees,  and  in  general  acted  as  Mr. 
Burnham's  representative  in  his  absence.  Mr.  Shankland  supervised  the 
designs,  the  specifications  and  the  execution  of  constructive  work.  Mr. 
Atwood  received  27  per  cent  of  the  profits  and  Mr.  Graham  and  Mr.  Shank- 
land  each  received  10  per  cent.  Mr.  Burnham  reserved  the  right  to  act  as 
promoter  of  buildings  and  other  enterprises  and  to  receive  the  profits  aris- 
ing therefrom. 

These  profits  often  were  large.  In  1894  one  such  arrangement  involved 
a  total  outlay  of  $3,300,000,  of  which  sum  $1,600,000  was  borrowed  on 
mortgage  from  one  of  the  largest  New  York  insurance  companies.  A  stock 
company  was  formed,  and  in  addition  to  architectural  fees  of  $85,000  for 
the  firm,  Mr.  Burnham^personally  received  $40,000  in  stock  for  his  services 
in  supervising  and  carrj'ing  through  the  negotiations.  In  New  York  build- 
ing operations  he  was  associated  with  such  financiers  as  August  Belmont, 
Charles  Flint,  and  Charles  T.  Barney. 

Mr.  Atwood  withdrew  December  10,  1895;  Mr.  Shankland  withdrew 
January  1,  1900.  After  the  latter  date  the  two  remaining  partners  divided 
the  profits  on  the  basis  of  6  to  4.  On  January  1,  1910,  Hubert  and  Daniel 
H.  Burnham,  Jr.,  were  admitted  to  the  firm.  Beginning  in  1908,  Pierce 
Anderson  received  a  share  of  the  profits  in  addition  to  his  salary. 


84  PICKING  UP  THE  THREADS 

with  no  one  in  his  firm.  Beyond  this  he  had  a  feeUng  for  all 
those  elements  which  tend  to  lift  a  structure  out  of  the  cate- 
gory of  mere  profit-yielders,  and  make  it  an  ornament  to  a  city. 
He  could  visualize  the  form  which  a  building  should  take;  then 
he  had  the  ability  to  bring  most  clients  to  his  way  of  thinking; 
and  aftenvards  he  could  command  the  talent  necessary  to 
achieve  the  results  both  in  the  matter  of  engineering  and  also 
of  design.  He  came  out  of  the  Fair  and  his  association  with 
fellow-artists  with  a  training,  previously  lacking,  in  taste  and 
in  the  fundamental  principles  of  architecture. 

James  W.  Ellsworth's  testimony  is  to  the  point:  "It  was 
questioned  by  many  whether  the  loss  of  Mr.  Root  was  not  irrep- 
arable. IMr.  Root's  death  brought  out  quaUties  in  Mr.  Burn- 
ham  which  might  not  have  developed,  at  least  not  so  early, 
had  IVIr.  Root  lived.  Previously  Mr.  Burnham  was  supposed  to 
attend  more  to  the  business  side,  and  Mr.  Root  to  the  artistic. 
My  idea  is  that  on  the  artistic  side  IVlr.  Burnham  did  lean  more 
or  less  on  Mr.  Root.  After  the  latter's  death,  however,  one 
would  never  realize  anything  of  this  kind,  or  ever  know  from 
Mr.  Burnham's  actions  that  he  ever  possessed  a  partner,  or  did 
not  command  in  both  directions." 

Mr.  Atwood,  who  was  expected  to  fill  the  place  left  vacant 
by  Mr.  Root's  death,  lacked  certam  qualities  needed  for  suc- 
cess in  commercial  undertakings.  Bom  in  Millbury,  Massa- 
chusetts, educated  at  the  Lawrence  Scientific  School,  Harvard 
University,  his  architectural  studies  began  in  the  Boston  office 
of  Ware  &  Van  Brunt,  a  firm  made  up  of  Professor  William 
R.  Ware  and  Henry  Van  Brunt,  men  both  scholarly  and  criti- 
cal. In  1875,  after  three  years  of  private  practice,  Mr.  Atwood 
was  drawn  into  the  service  of  Christian  H.  Herter  (the  firm 


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— ^  ■■'^    " 

^^ 

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i     \ 

CHARLES  ATWOOD 
From  a  caricature  by  Simmons 


CHARLES  B.  ATWOOD  85 

was  Herter  Brothers,  furnishers  and  decorators)  who  had  been 
commissioned  by  WiUiam  H.  Vanderbilt  to  build  the  double- 
houses  at  660  Fifth  Avenue.  Mr.  Atwood  designed  these 
houses  and  also  several  others  for  members  of  the  Vanderbilt 
family,  and  afterwards  spent  several  years  in  work  on  the 
estate  of  Mrs.  Mark  Hopkins  at  Great  Barrington.  Trained  in 
the  school  of  classic  design,  he  was  interested  primarily  in 
monumental  works;  and  although  occasionally  he  made  ex- 
cursions into  other  fields,  he  was  most  successful  when  he 
worked  in  Greek  forms  and  with  Greek  feeling.  His  design  for 
enlarging  the  City  Hall  in  New  York  (prepared  in  less  than 
twenty-four  hours  and  based  on  studies  made  casually  years 
before)  was  pronounced  superior  to  that  of  any  other  com- 
petitor; and  for  it  he  received  a  special  prize.  Mr.  Burnham 
admired  this  design  beyond  even  his  power  of  expression; 
while  he  also  gave  whole-hearted  approval  to  Mr.  Saint- 
Gaudens's  opinion  that  Mr.  Atwood's  Art  Building  at  the  Fair 
had  been  unequalled  since  the  Parthenon.^ 

WTiile  with  D.  H.  Burnham  &  Co.  he  designed  the  Ellicott 
Building  in  Buffalo;  but  during  the  last  two  years  of  his  con- 
nection with  the  firm,  the  condition  of  his  health  made  steady, 
concentrated  work  impossible,  although  his  mind  was  occupied 
with  architectural  problems.  Tall,  slender,  of  elegant  figure 
and  bearing,  with  a  head  remarkable  for  its  beauty,  with  gray, 
lustrous  eyes,  a  voice  with  rare  charm  and  a  diction  that  com- 
pleted the  spell,  Atwood  gradually  changed  from  one  of  the 
most  companionable  of  men  and  became  a  recluse.  At  the  age 
of  forty-six,  with  the  greatest  possibilities  before  him,  and  after 

'  MS.  of  D.  H.  B.  on  the  life  and  work  of  Charles  B.  Atwood.  See  also 
American  Architect,  December  28,  1895. 


86  PICKING  UP  THE  THREADS 

having  given  up  a  position  in  which  he  was  free  to  work  out 
his  conceptions  without  financial  worries,  he  succumbed  to  his 
only  enemy — himself.  He  died  in  Chicago  in  December,  1895. 
It  is  difficult  now  to  realize  the  change  that  came  over 
American  architecture  as  the  result  of  the  Chicago  Fair.  Nor 
is  it  possible  to  estimate  the  relative  value  of  the  influences 
that  were  at  work  to  bring  about  this  change.  From  the  East 
came  men  like  Charles  Eliot  Norton,  who  had  been  preaching 
the  pessimistic  gospel  of  the  "saving  remnant,"  and  who  saw 
a  vision.  If  such  things  were  possible  in  Chicago,  there  was 
yet  hope  for  a  country  steeped  in  commercialism,  crude  in 
manners,  and  brutal  in  the  use  of  sudden  wealth.  He  rejoiced 
that  he  had  hved  to  see  the  day  dawn  in  his  own  beloved 
country,  when  architect,  sculptor,  painter,  and  landscape  archi- 
tect could  be  brought  to  labor  together  to  produce  results  that 
recalled,  in  spirit  at  least,  those  triumphs  of  the  Middle  Ages, 
when  all  the  talents  of  a  community  united  to  produce  results 
which  expressed  civic  consciousness  reahzing  itseh  in  works  of 
enduring  nobility  and  beauty.  In  a  letter  to  Henrj'  B.  Fuller, 
chiding  him  for  the  pessimism  that  permeates  "The  Cliff 
Dwellers,"  Mr.  Norton  said:  "I  think  you  should  have  sym- 
pathetic admiration,  nay,  even  afTection,  for  the  ideal  Chicago 
which  exists  not  only  in  the  brain,  but  in  the  heart  of  some  of 
her  citizens.  I  have  never  seen  Americans  from  whom  one 
could  draw  happier  auguries  for  the  future  of  America,  than 
some  of  the  men  whom  I  saw  at  Chicago.  The  Fair,  in  spite  of 
its  amazing  incongruities,  and  its  immense  'border'  of  vulgar- 
ities, was  on  the  whole  a  great  promise,  even  a  great  pledge. 
It,  at  least,  forbids  despair."  ' 

'  Letters  of  Charles  Eliot  Norton,  vol.  ii,  p.  216. 


CRITICISMS  OF  THE  FAIR  87 

Mr.  Norton,  in  a  lecture  on  "Art  in  America,"  recorded  his 
matured  impressions  of  the  Fair.  Quoting  \s'ith  commendation 
an  article  by  Peter  B.  Wight  that  had  recently  appeared  in 
the  "Inland  Architect,"  he  said: 

Not  one  of  those  great  facades  was  an  expression  of  the  plan, 
construction  or  purpose  of  the  building  behind  it.  The  build- 
ings were  simply  masked  by  full-sized  models  of  decorative 
walls.  They  were  intended  for  scenic  efTect;  they  were  magnifi- 
cent decorative  pieces.  They  were  architecture  only  in  this 
sense,  and  in  this  sense  they  were  worthy  of  the  warmest  ad- 
miration. They  expressed  the  wealth,  the  ingenuity,  the  prac- 
tical capacity  of  the  people;  but  they  were  not  the  poetic  crea- 
tions in  which  the  vital  spirit  of  a  nation  expressed  itself  by 
means  of  noble  organic  structures  vitalized  by  its  own  super- 
abundant life. 

Their  mere  externaUty,  their  essential  unreality,  were  em- 
phasized not  only  in  their  design  and  the  material  used  in  their 
construction,  but  by  the  degrading  accessories  which  were 
allowed,  for  the  sake  of  the  profit  to  be  made  from  them,  to 
intrude  themselves  into  the  closest  relation  with  the  fine  edi- 
fices upon  the  very  Court  of  Honor  itself;  while  outside  the 
Court  of  Honor  the  multitude  of  State  buildings  gave  witness 
of  the  lack  of  harmony  and  of  union  in  the  States,  in  their  fail- 
ure to  adopt  a  common  scheme,  as  well  as  to  a  general  lack  of 
taste  and  of  imagination  in  the  designers  employed  by  many 
of  the  States  to  construct  the  buildings  which  were  to  represent 
the  dignity  and  interests  of  the  separate  Commonwealths. 

The  great  Fair  was  indeed  a  superb  and  appropriate  symbol 
of  our  great  nation,  in  its  noble  general  design  and  in  the  ine- 
qualities of  its  execution;  in  its  unexampled  display  of  indus- 
trial energy  and  practical  capacity;  in  the  absence  of  the  higher 
works  of  the  creative  imagination ;  in  its  incongruities,  its  min- 
gling of  noble  realities  and  ignoble  pretences,  in  its  refinements 
cheek-by-jowl  with  vulgarities,  in  its  order  and  its  confusion  — 
in  its  heterogeneousness  and  in  its  unity. 


88  PICKING  UP  THE  THREADS 

Here  was  the  United  States  on  show,  both  in  its  real  aspects 
and  in  its  potentialities.  It  was  an  exhilarating  spectacle,  far 
too  vast  to  be  comprehended  in  a  single  glance,  far  too  varied 
and  compUcated  to  be  of  easy  interpretation.  It  was  full  of 
material  promise.  Was  it  full  also  of  spiritual  promise  ?  Did  the 
way  through  it  lead  to  the  Celestial  City?  Was  it,  indeed,  but 
the  type  and  promise  of  the  New  Jerusalem,  or  was  it  rather 
like  the  great  city  of  the  Book  of  Revelation,  full  of  "the  mer- 
chandise of  gold,  and  silver,  and  precious  stones,  and  of  pearls, 
and  fine  Imen,  and  purple,  and  silk,  and  scarlet,  and  all  thyine 
wood,  and  all  manner  vessels  of  ivory,  and  all  manner  vessels  of 
most  precious  wood,  and  of  brass,  and  iron,  and  marble,  and 
cinnamon,  and  odours,  and  ointments,  and  frankincense,  and 
wine,  and  oil,  and  fine  flour,  and  wheat,  and  beasts,  and  sheep, 
and  horses,  and  chariots,  and  slaves,  and  souls  of  men"? 

No  spirit  of  prophecy  reveals  the  answer  to  this  question. 
It  will  be  answered  only  as  the  course  of  years  rolls  on.  If  the 
heterogeneous  millions  of  American  people  rise  slowly  to  the 
height  of  their  unexampled  opportunities;  if  gradually  they 
become  unified  in  sentiment,  with  common  ideals  of  noble  na- 
tional existence;  if  mastering  the  materializing  influences  of 
their  present  conditions,  they  assimUate  the  elements  of  ma- 
terial prosperity  so  as  to  make  them  contribute  to  spiritual 
growth;  if  they  turn  the  products  of  the  understanding  into 
nutriment  for  the  reason  and  the  imagination  —  then  we  may 
be  sure  that  the  bare  prose  of  our  actual  days  will  blossom  into 
poetry,  and  the  life  of  the  nation  find  natural  expression  in  an 
art  which  shall  be  a  fresh  revelation  of  the  highest  powers  of 
the  human  spirit,  and  in  which  the  beauty  of  those  new  ideals 
of  society  which  he  as  yet  vague  and  shapeless  in  the  heart  of 
our  democracy  shall  be  embodied  in  forms  of  enduring  delight 
and  inspiration. 

But  this  is  not  for  us.  We  are  on  the  top  of  Pisgah;  the  prom- 
ised land  lies  before  us,  but  we  shall  not  go  over  thither;  we  lift 
up  our  eyes  westward  and  northward  and  southward  and  east- 
ward, and  behold  it  with  our  eyes,  but  we  shall  not  go  over  tliis 
Jordan;  we  can  only  charge  our  cliildren,  and  encourage  them, 


CHARLES  ELIOT  NORTON 

1878 


SATISFACTIONS  IN  CIVIC  IMPROVEMENT    89 

and  strengthen  them,  that  they  may  go  over  and  inherit  the 
good  land  which  we  see  beyond.^ 

These  characteristic  words  of  Mr.  Norton,  that  pessimistic 
optunist,  written  in  1898,  are  to  be  taken  in  view  of  what  has 
happened  in  the  twenty-two  succeeding  years.  No  one  reahzed 
better  than  Mr.  Burnham  that  the  Fair  was  not  so  much  a  final 
accomplishment  as  a  training  for  further  work  along  the  lines 
laid  down  by  Mr.  Norton.  The  White  City  was  indeed  a 
dream,  having  elements  of  truth  and  yet  filled  with  all  manner 
of  inconsistencies  and  unsubstantialities.  But  the  improve- 
ment of  the  city  of  Washington,  the  plans  of  Cleveland  and 
San  Francisco,  and  Manila,  the  creation  of  Baguio,  and  the  stu- 
pendous plan  of  Chicago,  all  are  further  stations  on  the  steep 
ascent  of  Pisgah.  No  critic  knows  so  well  as  does  the  worker 
the  difficulties,  the  disappointments,  and  the  shortcomings  of 
his  own  work.  On  an  ai'chitect's  tomb  in  the  Pantheon  at 
Rome  is  this  epitaph:  "He  did  nothing  that  wholly  satisfied 
him."  All  that  a  sincere  worker  can  do  is  to  lay  foundations  on 
which  those  who  come  after  him  may  build.  Every  one  achieve- 
ment opens  ten  opportunities.  For  him  the  Promised  Land  ever 
recedes.  So  we  shall  find  it  was  with  Mr.  Burnham's  life ;  but 
no  one  can  say  truthfully  that  his  eyes  were  not  lifted  to  the 
westward  and  northward  and  southward  and  eastward,  or  that 
there  was  any  but  the  farthest  horizon  to  the  land  he  descried. 

President  Charles  W.  Eliot,  with  the  stern  optunism  engen- 
dered by  years  of  successful  struggle  to  change  bad  conditions  to 
better  ones,  rejoiced  in  the  Chicago  Fair  as  an  accomplisliment 
which  gave  every  promise  of  promoting  throughout  the  land 

1  "Art  in  America";  a  lecture,  by  Professor  Charles  Eliot  Norton. 
Manuscript  in  possession  of  Miss  Sara  Norton. 


90  PICKING  UP  THE  THREADS 

what  he  called  the  permanent  satisfactions  of  life.  The  appeal 
to  the  finer  and  higher  instincts  in  human  nature  had  been 
made  on  a  grand  scale  and  in  a  convincing  manner.  Both  he 
and  Mr.  Norton  were  quick  to  recognize  and  to  honor  the  leader 
in  this  movement.  They  became  IVIr.  Burnham's  personal 
friends,  and  shaping  influences  in  his  life.  President  EUot's  per- 
sonal contribution  to  the  Fair  was  a  series  of  inscriptions  on 
the  Water-Gate  prepared  at  Mr.  Burnham's  request,  some  of 
which  he  wrote  and  others  he  selected.  Among  those  selected 
was  the  text  from  Saint  Paul,  "Ye  shall  know  the  truth  and  the 
truth  shall  make  you  free,"  a  sentence  so  often  on  Mr.  Bum- 
ham's  tongue  that  it  might  well  be  taken  as  the  motto  of  his 
hie.' 

To  the  artists  of  America  the  Fair  meant  the  pubhc  recogni- 
tion of  their  work  in  conjunction  one  with  another.  Standards 
of  achievement  and  taste  had  been  created.  Eclecticism  and 
freakishness,  falsely  called  originality,  had  been  discredited; 
and  the  treasure-houses  of  the  past  opened  doors  long  closed 
to  Americans,  because  never  attempted.  Suddenly  we  became 
heirs  to  untold  riches  in  art.  Young  architects  trained  at  the 
Beaux  Arts  found  receptive  clients  where  they  had  feared  to 
encounter  opposition.  They  no  longer  spoke  a  foreign  lan- 
guage, but  made  their  appeals  to  imderstanding  ears.  And 
then  it  was  discovered  that  much  of  what  then  seemed  new  and 
unaccustomed  was  but  a  retxuTi  to  early  days,  when  the  tradi- 
tions of  Sir  Christopher  Wren  had  been  followed  in  the  colonial 
architecture  of  America  by  builders  who  by  no  means  changed 
their  natures  when  they  changed  their  skies.   So  they  eagerly 

'  American  Contributions  to  Civilization,  by  Charles  William  Eliot,  LL.D. 
(New  York:  The  Century  Co.  1897),  p.  383. 


THE  SOLUTION  OF  THE  PROBLEM  91 

sought  in  the  colonial  architecture  of  the  Atlantic  seaboard 
precedents  to  which  they  appealed  not  in  vain.  And  more  care- 
ful study  revealed  the  encouraging  fact  that  in  planning  the 
earliest  public  buildings  of  the  new  republic,  Washington  and 
Jefferson  had  insisted  on  classic  precedents.  So  that  in  the  last 
analysis  the  new  movement  was  but  a  return  to  our  better 
selves. 

AU  these  influences  were  at  work  in  Mr.  Burnham's  mind  to 
change  and  direct  the  course  of  his  thought.  But  he  never 
allowed  himself  to  forget  that  to  an  architect  the  solution  of 
his  problem  is  the  chief  consideration ;  and  that  clients  do  not 
employ  architects  primarily  to  create  works  of  art.  His  concern 
was  mainly  with  commercial  buildings,  in  which  a  return  on  the 
investment  was  of  first  consideration.  These  buildings  were 
henceforth  marked  by  a  large  degree  of  uniformity,  due  partly 
to  the  substantial  sameness  of  the  fundamental  problem  and  in 
part  to  a  restraint  in  style  brought  about  by  the  lessons  taught 
by  the  success  of  the  Fair. 

Mr.  Peter  B.  Wight,  in  summing  up  Mr.  Burnham's  work, 
explains  that  his  buildings  differ  from  those  done  by  contem- 
poraneous architects: 

The  main  exterior  piers  of  his  buildings  are  generally  carried 
down  to  the  ground  full-size,  so  that  they  have  that  substantial 
appearance,  the  want  of  which  has  so  often  been  criticized  by 
those  who  object  to  heavy  walls  built  on  top  of  plate-glass.  He 
seems  to  have  satisfied  the  demands  of  his  clients  for  big  win- 
dows by  building  his  main  piers  far  apart. 

It  would  be  useless  to  calculate  the  amount  of  money  ex- 
pended on  buildings  under  Mr.  Burnham's  direction.  The  suc- 
cess of  an  architect  does  not  depend  upon  the  quantity  of  work 
that  he  has  done;  but  rather  upon  its  freedom  from  errors  and, 
in  commercial  work,  its  paying  qualities.   If  he  has  satisfied 


92  PICKING  UP  THE  THREADS 

his  clients  \\ath  show  windows  and  at  the  same  time  carried  his 
large  piers  down  to  the  ground,  he  seems  to  have  solved  one 
problem  in  commercial  architecture  that  others  have  failed  in. 
I  do  not  wish  to  assume  that  any  one  man  could  have  designed 
so  many  large  buildings,  but  I  believe  he  planned  them.  When 
a  man  has  no  time  to  make  large  drawings,  he  has  to  make 
small  ones,  and  he  has  to  reduce  the  size  of  his  sheets  of  paper 
as  the  demands  upon  his  time  increase.  That  is  what  Burnham 
did.  He  could  lay  out  the  plan  for  a  large  office  building  on 
sheets  six  inches  square,  and  he  would  not  only  make  one  plan, 
but  would  use  sheets  enough  to  lay  it  out  according  to  every 
arrangement  he  could  conceive  of  until  he  found  the  best  one 
to  recommend  to  his  client.  That  is  what  I  have  seen  him  do. 
His  conceptions  of  such  things  were  always  on  such  a  large 
scale  that  few  are  broad-minded  enough  to  comprehend  them. 
He  could  keep  twenty  men  at  work  in  laying  plans  out  on  paper 
and  perhaps  not  one  of  them  understood  exactly  what  he  was 
driving  at;  but  when  the  drawings  were  completed,  they  ex- 
pressed just  what  he  intended.  Great  men  do  not  always  tell 
us  how  they  accomplish  things,  and  therefore  we  do  not  under- 
stand; but  somehow  they  get  there.  When  they  themselves 
do  not  do  the  plans,  they  are  smart  enough  to  know  where  to 
find  one  who  can  design  a  big  thing  on  a  few  suggestions,  such 
as  the  fellow  himself  would  never  dream  of  without  help.  And 
that  is  what  Burnham  did. 

To  this  just  characterization  one  other  element  should  be 
added.  To  Mr.  Burnham  cleanliness  seemed  not  next  to  godli- 
ness, but  on  a  par  with  it.  Hence  his  use  of  white  marble  and 
glass  in  corridors.  He  planned  so  that  every  spot  should  show, 
and  hence  the  building  must  be  kept  clean.  Maintenance 
might  seem  expensive,  but  the  expense  was  more  than  bal- 
anced by  earning  capacity.  For  this  reason  his  buildings 
usually  maintain  their  paying  qualities  long  after  the  tide  of 
commercial  fashion  has  turned  to  other  portions  of  the  city. 


ILLINOIS  TRUST  AND  SAVINGS  BANK,  CHICAGO 


McKIM'S  COMMENDATIONS  93 

It  is  not  to  be  assumed  that  all  commercial  buildings  are 
designed  purely  with  a  view  to  their  rent-paying  quaUties. 
Occasionally  a  client  can  be  induced  to  get  his  results  on  another 
basis  than  returns  on  floor-space.  One  such  client  Mr.  Bum- 
ham  either  found  or  made  in  the  Illinois  Trust  Company, 
whose  building  called  forth  a  letter  of  praise  from  Charles 
McKim. 

Dear  Daniel  [writes  Mr.  McKim,  on  November  15,  1897], 
In  the  midst  of  the  perplexities  of  existence,  and  a  table  full 
of  papers  (which  I  live  in  vain  to  dispose  of !)  it  was  a  pleasure 
just  now  to  have  placed  in  my  hand  a  copy  of  the  "Architec- 
tural Review,"  filled  with  all  manner  of  photographic  reproduc- 
tions of  works  of  architecture,  good  and  indiiTerent,  but  chiefly 
bad.  Just  as  I  was  about  to  toss  it  into  the  waste-paper  basket, 
where  I  felt  that  it  belonged,  I  caught  sight  of  the  last  page, 
containing  an  advertisement  of  the  Standard  Marble  Works, 
John  Mueller,  Proprietor,  who  was  wise  enough  to  recognize, 
in  the  creation  which  you  made  of  it,  in  the  Illinois  Trust  & 
Savings  Bank  Building,  a  masterpiece,  and  the  very  best  ad- 
vertisement they  could  have. 

It  is  hard  to  conceive  of  such  a  simple  and  beautiful  struc- 
ture, with  so  much  repose,  in  so  horrible  a  climate,  and  in  the 
midst  of  such  hellish  surroundings!  (Not  that  I  don't  believe 
in  the  Spirit  of  Chicago.) 

I  congratulate  you  upon  such  clients,  in  the  Directors  of  the 
Bank,  as  the  building  suggests  them  to  be,  and  I  have  pasted 
Mr.  Mueller's  advertisement  over  my  desk. 

Yours  faithfully 

Charles  F.  McKim 

In  another  letter,  equally  characteristic,  Mr.  McKim  writes 
of  "your  magnificent  design  for  the  Illinois  Trust  and  Savings 
Bank  Building,  which  I  assure  you  we  have  all  greatly  admired, 
and  take  pride  in.   In  the  midst  of  free  silver  and  sham  con- 


94  PICKING  UP  THE  THREADS 

struction  it  stands  for  sound  money  in  every  line,  and  is  an 
echo  of  the  work  of  '93.  It  will  remain  a  monument  long  after 
you  are  gone."  Unfortunately  for  Mr.  McKim's  reputation 
as  a  prophet,  he  was  unappreciative  of  the  rapid  growth  of 
Chicago,  the  consequent  appreciation  in  the  value  of  real  estate 
in  the  Loop  District,  and  the  expansive  forces  of  a  great  bank. 
This  beautiful  building  is  doomed  to  be  replaced  by  one  which 
will  tower  into  the  air  to  the  permissible  height  of  structures  in 
the  business  section  of  Chicago. 

After  their  marriage,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bumham  Uved  with 
Mr.  Sherman,  at  2100  Prairie  Avenue.  There  all  their  children 
were  born,  excepting  Daniel,  Jr.,  who  first  saw  the  light  in  a 
home  given  by  Mr.  Sherman  to  his  daughter  in  1880,  and  lo- 
cated at  the  southwest  corner  of  Michigan  Avenue  and  Forty- 
thu-d  Street.  There  the  family  lived  until  1886,  when  Mr. 
Bumham  bought  the  Evanston  property,  comprising  two  city 
blocks,  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Michigan.  This  estate  is  the 
home  of  the  Bumhams.  It  was  an  ideal  place  for  bringing  up 
a  family  of  children.  A  coal-dock  furnished  a  recreation  pier; 
the  sandy  beach,  which  then  covered  the  space  now  occupied 
by  the  broad  terrace,  supplied  opportunities  for  swunming;  in 
the  thicket  of  woods  that  stretched  across  the  property  the 
bloody  scenes  of  Indian  surprise  and  attack  witnessed  by  the 
older  residents  of  Chicago  were  reenacted  by  the  Bumham 
children  and  their  troop  of  companions;  towards  the  front 
were  croquet  grounds  and  tennis  courts;  and  the  already 
spacious  house  from  time  to  time  threw  out  the  extensions 
called  for  by  hospitality  and  neighborliness  and  permitted  by 
prosperity. 


CHAPTER  VIII 

PRESIDENT  OF  THE  AMERICAN  INSTITUTE  OF 
ARCHITECTS 

AT  the  twenty-seventh  annual  convention  of  the 
American  Institute  of  Architects,  held  in  Chicago 
in  July,  1893,  Mr.  Burnham  was  elected  president. 
On  the  part  of  the  architects  the  choice  was  a  recognition  of 
the  organizing  and  administrative  abilities  of  Mr.  Burnham. 
On  his  part  it  was  a  call  to  continued  activities  in  establishing 
his  chosen  profession  in  national  leadership  and  respect. 

In  February,  1893,  Congress  completed  the  legislation  known 
as  the  Tarsney  Act,  authorizing  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury 
in  his  discretion  to  obtain  plans  and  specifications  for  the  erec- 
tion of  public  buildings  in  the  United  States  by  competition 
among  architects  under  such  provisions  as  he  might  prescribe, 
and  to  make  payment  for  the  services  of  successful  architects 
out  of  appropriations  for  the  respective  buildings.  It  was 
provided  that  no  fewer  than  five  architects  should  be  invited 
to  enter  each  competition ;  that  the  successful  architect  should 
supervise  the  carrying-out  of  his  own  plans ;  but  that  the  gen- 
eral supervision  should  continue  to  be  performed  by  the  Office 
of  the  Supervising  Architect  of  the  Treasury  Department. 

This  legislation  had  been  persistently  sought  by  the  Insti- 
tute during  several  years.  They  had  shown  to  Congress  that 
the  earUer  and  better  Government  architecture,  such  as  the 
Capitol,  the  WTiite  House,  the  Treasury,  Post-Office  and  In- 
terior Department  buildings,  had  been  designed  by  private 
architects;  whereas  the  Supervising  Architect's  office  was  re- 


96    PRESIDENT  OF  INSTITUTE  OF  ARCHITECTS 

sponsible  for  the  State,  War  and  Navy  Building,  the  new  Post- 
Office  on  Pennsylvania  Avenue,  and  Federal  buildings  in  vari- 
ous cities,  which  represented  a  retrogression  in  taste  combined 
with  increased  expense,  as  compared  with  privately  constructed 
buildings.  The  Supervising  Architect,  at  first  a  designer,  had 
become  simply  an  administrator,  and  that,  too,  with  so  much 
work  in  his  office  —  from  fifty  to  sixty  buildings  a  year  —  that 
he  rarely  saw  a  building  in  course  of  erection  and  was  compelled 
to  leave  designing  to  clerks  who  copied  drawings  without  re- 
gard to  local  needs  or  conditions.^ 

No  sooner  was  the  Tarsney  Act  signed  than  Richard  M. 
Hunt,  Charles  McKim,  and  President  Kendall  of  the  Institute 
called  on  Secretary  Carlisle,  who  assured  them  that  henceforth 
every  Government  building  would  be  built  on  plans  selected 
through  competition  among  the  architects  of  the  country.  No 
action  resulted.  In  November  the  secretary  of  the  Institute, 
Alfred  Stone,  wrote  to  the  Supervising  Architect  to  inquire 
whether  it  was  "possible  to  find  some  way  to  overcome  the 
prejudices  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  if  he  is  prejudiced 
against  the  act,  or  of  finding  means  to  induce  him  to  institute 
competitions  on  several  of  the  very  important  buildings  ordered 
by  Congress."  The  use  of  the  word  "prejudice"  was  unfortu- 
nate. The  Supervising  Architect,  Jeremiah  O'Rourke,  seized 
upon  it,  and  remarked  in  reply  that  he  had  no  cause  to  beUeve 
that  the  Secretary's  reason  for  deferring  action  was  other  than 
that  his  time  had  "been  fully  occupied  by  public  business  of  a 
most  pressing  nature." 


'  House  Report  1078,  52cl  Cong.,  1st  Sess.,  by  Mr.  Tarsney  from  the 
Committee  on  Public  Buildings  and  Grounds.  The  bill  passed  the  Senate 
February  4,  1893,  and  was  approved  February  20. 


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THE  CONSULATE  OF  JEREMIAH  O'ROURKE    97 

One  structure  mentioned  specifically  by  Secretary  Carlisle 
as  being  open  to  competition  was  the  Buffalo  Federal  Building. 
Yet  after  the  act  had  been  in  force  a  year,  the  Supervising 
Architect  pubUshed  his  own  designs  for  the  Buffalo  building. 
The  Buffalo  chapter  having  called  the  matter  to  the  attention 
of  the  Institute/  a  protest  was  sent  to  the  Secretary  on  Jan- 
uary 9,  in  which  it  was  stated  that  the  Supervising  Architect's 
design,  if  carried  into  execution,  would  be  found  "  absolutely 
wanting  in  the  fundamental  elements  that  go  to  make  a  public 
building,  and  will  be  condemned  by  the  community."  ^  The 
Secretary  was  asked  to  prevent  the  construction  of  the  design. 
In  the  ordinary  course  of  business  the  protest  went  to  the 
Supervising  Architect,  who  took  it  upon  himseK  personally  to 
answer  it.  Mr.  O'Rourke,  referring  to  "a  rather  clumsily 
folded  communication,"  said  that  it  was  "of  such  unusual  and 
extraordinary  character. . .  and  so  at  variance  with  professional 
courtesy  and  good  breeding  that,  in  justice  to  the  A.I.A.,  I 
hesitate  to  beUeve  in  its  legitimacy."  He  asked  Mr.  Stone  to 
vouch  for  its  genuineness  and  assured  him  that  on  receipt  of 
his  reply  he  "would  give  the  matter  the  attention  it  may  de- 
serve." 

The  soft  answer  made  by  Secretar^^  Stone  failed  to  turn  away 
the  wrath  of  the  Treasury  officials.  On  February  6  the  Ex- 
ecutive Committee  of  the  Institute,  having  been  urged  thereto 
by  the  people  of  Buffalo  and  the  whole  architectural  profession, 
sought  an  interview  with  Secretary  Carlisle,  who  excused  him- 
self and  referred  the  com-mittee  to  the  Supervising  Architect. 

■  Letter  of  D.  H.  Burnham  to  Secretary  Carlisle,  February  14,  1894. 
Given  in  the  American  Architect,  April  7,  1894. 

^  The  protest  was  signed  by  D.  H.  Burnham,  president;  George  B.  Post 
and  Levi  P.  Scofield,  vice-presidents;  Alfred  Stone,  secretary. 


98  PRESIDENT  OF  INSTITUTE  OF  ARCHITECTS 

The  committee,  having  declined  to  meet  IVIr.  O'Rourke  until 
he  had  withdrawn  his  insulting  letter,  conferred  with  Assistant 
Secretary  WilUam  E.  Curtis,  who  told  them  that  four  objec- 
tions had  prevented  his  chief  from  taking  action  —  the  expense 
of  architectural  fees;  the  interference  of  Congressmen  who 
claimed  the  right  to  name  the  architects  for  competitions;  that 
to  begin  in  Buffalo  was  urgent  in  order  to  give  work  to  the  un- 
employed; and  that  no  machinery  had  been  created  to  carry 
out  the  act.  On  the  same  day  Mr.  O'Rourke  wrote  Mr.  Burn- 
ham  that  he  was  willing  to  meet  the  committee  in  a  friendly 
spirit.  Mr.  Burnham  replied  expressing  the  sincere  hope  that 
Mr.  O'Rourke  would  withdraw  his  offensive  letter  and  thus 
"gain  the  esteem  of  all  men  of  the  profession,"  and  saying  that 
he  was  engaged  in  formulating  an  answer  to  Mr.  Curtis's 
objections. 

On  February  14  Mr.  Burnham  wrote  to  Secretary  Carlisle 
giving  a  history  of  the  controversy,  with  the  documents,  and 
continued : 

I  now  have  the  honor  of  taking  up  the  points  brought  out 
in  the  interview  with  the  Honorable  Assistant  Secretary,  in 
Washington,  on  February  5.  The  gentlemen  of  the  committee 
of  the  Institute  who  were  present  on  that  occasion  were  Mr. 
George  B.  Post,  of  New  York;  Mr.  E.  H.  Kendall,  of  New 
York;  Mr.  Charles  F.  McKim,  of  New  York;  Mr.  Arthur 
Rotch,  of  Boston;  Mr.  WiUiam  W.  Clay,  of  Chicago;  Mr.  Sam- 
uel A.  Treat,  of  Chicago ;  each  of  them  would  be  regarded  as  a 
competent  critic  of  architecture,  and  there  can  be  no  doubt  as 
to  their  fairness. 

The  design  of  the  Buffalo  building  was  examined  by  them 
with  a  view  of  suggesting  changes  to  bring  it  up  to  the  proper 
standard  for  a  structure  of  that  nature.  Their  unanimous  con- 
clusion was  that  such  a  course  was  not  possible;  that  to  make 


THE  SUPERVISING  ARCHITECTS  OFFICE     99 

the  present  design  satisfactory  would  involve  changes  so  exten- 
sive as  really  to  produce  a  new  design;  that  it  would,  therefore, 
be  better  to  start  de  novo.  In  short,  it  is  the  opinion  of  the  com- 
mittee that  the  defects  in  the  design,  for  the  purpose,  are  radical. 

The  Government  paid  out  in  1893  for  its  buildings  and  re- 
pairs, apart  from  purchase  of  ground,  about  §3,200,000.  The 
total  expenses  of  the  Supervising  Architect's  Ofhce  for  1893 
were  $198,000,  or  six  per  cent  on  the  cost  of  the  work  actually 
done.  The  price  for  the  same  service  by  the  best  men  in  the 
country  in  private  life  is  five  per  cent,  or  one  per  cent  less  thaii 
the  actual  cost  to  the  United  States  for  the  same  thing  in  1893. 
This  one  per  cent  ought  to  very  much  more  than  cover  the 
cost  of  the  services,  which,  under  the  biU,  the  Supervising  Ar- 
chitect would  still  have  to  furnish,  i.e.,  that  of  estimating,  in- 
specting of  accounts,  auditing,  and  such  superintendence  as 
would  be  needed  to  supplement  that  done  by  the  architects 
themselves.  Any  reputable  architect  would  consider  it  ex- 
tremely extravagant  if  he  found  that  the  service  left  under  the 
bill  to  the  Supervising  Architect  had  cost  him  in  his  private 
practice  one  per  cent  of  the  value  of  the  buildings  themselves. 
Instead  of  its  costing  the  Government  more  for  architectural 
service  if  private  practitioners  be  employed,  the  cost  will  be 
reduced  and  there  will  be  a  considerable  saving. 

The  entire  profession  of  architecture  desire  to  have  the  pro- 
posed building  for  Buffalo  thrown  open  to  competition,  which 
shall  include  the  architects  of  the  country.  This,  I  am  informed, 
is  also  the  wish  of  the  profession  in  Buffalo.  From  what  little 
agitation  there  has  been  in  that  city,  it  is  evident  the  people 
there  are  quite  as  eager  that  this  course  should  be  pursued  as 
are  the  architects  themselves,  and  it  can  be  proved  to  you  that 
Congressmen  from  that  place  can  only  represent  their  people 
properly  by  advising  it. 

The  people  are  no  longer  ignorant  regarding  architectural 
matters.  They  have  been  awakened  through  the  display  of  the 
World's  Columbian  Exposition  of  1893,  where  it  was  generally 
remarked  that  the  Government  building  was  inferior  to  any  of 
the  other  large  structures. 


100    PRESIDENT  OF  INSTITUTE  OF  ARCHITECTS 

The  question  the  people  of  Buffalo  now  ask  is  not  "Can  the 
Act  of  Ninety-Three  be  improved?";  they  know  that  as  it 
stands,  you  have  the  power  to  order  a  competition  for  their 
building.  They  have  the  opinion  of  the  board  of  directors  of 
the  Institute  that  the  design  made  in  Wasliington  is  improper, 
and  they  believe  this  themselves.  They  ask  you  to  take  the 
step  which  the  law  authorizes,  thus  insuring  a  noble  monument, 
which  may  be  forever  a  pleasure  and  pride  to  the  city. 

And  to  this  end,  by  authority  of  the  executive  committee  of 
the  Institute,  I  have  the  honor  to  state  that  the  members  of 
the  American  Institute  of  Architects  \\i\\  compete  for  this 
Buffalo  building  without  pay,  except  to  him  whose  design 
shall  be  chosen. 

I  think  the  Assistant  Secretary  was  mistaken  about  the  ur- 
gency of  the  Buflalo  people  to  have  the  building  started  at 
once,  because  of  the  need  of  furnishing  emplo>Tnent  to  laborers. 
I  have  had  a  number  of  clippings  from  the  Buffalo  papers,  some 
of  them  being  editorials,  in  which  this  position  is  strongly  con- 
troverted. .  .  . 

The  competition  can  be  carried  through  in  an  exceedingly 
short  time  if  you  will  order  it.  The  exigency  of  the  case  would 
be  considered  by  the  architects,  and  they  would  be  willing  to 
prepare  plans  much  quicker  than  could  ordinarily  be  expected 
of  them. 

I  have  already  said  that  the  architects  themselves  will  agree 
to  furnish  a  full  and  satisfactory  competition  for  this  special 
case,  without  cost  to  the  Government.  We  are  also  ready  to 
assist  the  Government  in  the  arrangement  of  a  code  for  the 
competition.  This  matter  of  "competitions"  has  been  studied 
from  time  to  time  by  very  able  architects,  and  a  code  for 
conducting  them  has  more  than  once  been  printed. 

I  note  by  the  public  press  that  the  Super\ising  Architect 
recently  informed  Assistant  Secretary  Curtis  that  it  will  take 
three  years  and  a  half  for  his  office,  as  now  constituted,  to  de- 
sign the  buildings  already  authorized.  If  this  be  approximately 
true,  the  retaining  of  a  number  of  the  most  able  architects 
of  the  country  to  assist  him  is  imperative  and  urgent. 


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FUTILITY  101 

I  now  have  the  honor  to  request  you  to  name  a  day  when  the 
executive  committee  of  the  Institute  may  be  heard  by  you  on 
the  questions  covered  by  this  memorial.  We  offer  to  assist  in 
placing  its  architecture  upon  the  footing  demanded  by  the 
country.  We  will  serve  without  pay,  giving  our  best  endeav- 
ors to  the  work. 

I  have  the  honor  to  remain, 

Yours  faithfully  D.  H.  Burnham 

President,  A.I.A. 

After  waiting  nearly  a  month,  Secretary  Carlisle  replied  that 
Mr.  Burnham's  memorial  did  not  cover  the  points  raised  by 
Mr.  Curtis  and  intimated  that  further  legislation  would  be 
required.  The  letter  closed  with  the  statement  that  while 
another  interview  would  give  him  pleasure,  he  saw  no  need  of 
it  unless  Mr.  Burnham  was  prepared  to  propose  additional 
legislation.  Meantime  work  on  the  Buffalo  building  would  go 
on  according  to  the  O'Rourke  plan. 

Thus  the  work  of  the  Institute  and  the  Act  of  Congress  were 
to  go  for  nothing  because  of  pride  of  opinion  on  the  part  of  a 
Supervising  Architect  whose  plans  were  condemned  and  the 
indifference  of  a  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  who  was  more  used 
to  making  laws  than  to  obeying  them.^ 

More  in  sorrow  than  in  anger,  but  with  unconcealed  in- 
dignation, Mr.  Burnham  replied : 

I  am  astonished  at  the  contents  of  your  letter  of  March  6, 
just  received.  I  am,  however,  informed  that  it  was  prepared 
by  the  Supervising  Architect  of  the  Treasury,  and  I  observe 
that  it  was  signed  for  you  by  one  of  your  secretaries. 

Its  statements  are  very  inaccurate,  and  I  gladly  believe  that 
it  has  not  passed  your  scrutiny.  The  proposed  change  is  not 

'  In  the  same  way  Secretary  Carlisle  refused  to  put  in  force  the  law 
exempting  from  taxation  alcohol  used  in  the  arts. 


102    PRESIDENT  OF  INSTITUTE  OF  ARCHITECTS 

the  action  desired  by  the  Institute  of  Architects  alone.   It  is 
one  in  which  the  country  is  deeply  interested. 

You  yourself  inaugurated  it  when  you  sent  for  a  committee 
from  the  Institute  one  year  ago.  At  your  request  the  most  em- 
inent men  in  the  profession  visited  you,  headed  by  the  presi- 
dent of  the  Institute.  You  told  them  then  that  you  were 
in  accord  with  them  regarding  the  law  which  had  just  been 

passed. 

At  that  inter\dew  you  yourself  brought  up  the  Buffalo  Post- 
OfTice  as  a  case  in  which  the  law  might  first  be  tried.  The  ar- 
chitects of  the  country  favor  the  change,  as  do  all  intelligent 
citizens.  It  is  not  a  private  measure  of  theirs,  but  one  in  which 
you  yourself  took  the  initiative. 

I  quote  from  your  second  paragraph:  "The  difficulties 
briefly  stated  to  your  committee  by  Assistant  Secretary  Curtis, 
as  specified  on  the  eighth  page  of  the  memorial." 

I  do  not  understand  why  the  letter  juggles  with  words. 

Your  Department  stated  the  objections  and  they  are  WTitten 
in  the  memorial  on  page  eight  and  numbered  from  one  to  four 
inclusive.  You  now  say,  "The  memorial  is  confined  exclu- 
sively to  elucidating  a  plan  for  the  competition  only,  and  leaves 
without  discussion,  and  unsolved,  all  the  principal  obstacles 
in  the  way,"  etc. 

Page  eleven  of  the  memorial  starts  with  the  sentence,  "  I  now 
have  the  honor  of  taking  up  the  points  brought  out  in  the  inter- 
view with  the  Honorable  Assistant  Secretary,"  etc.,  and  then 
goes  on  to  carefully  discuss  each  of  them  and  solve  the  diffi- 
culty. 

I  will  emphasize  what  I  there  said.  .  .  . 

The  claim  that  the  memorial  does  not  discuss  or  solve  the 
principal  obstacles  is  absurd. 

There  is  no  business  reason  why  the  law  may  not  be  put  in 
force  at  once,  nor  has  there  been,  that  I  am  able  to  discover. 

The  working  of  the  Super\asing  Architect's  Office  is  not  a 
free-masonry  requiring  specially  trained  adepts  to  undertake 
it.  It  is  a  simple  organization  which  any  good  business  men, 
with  a  knowledge  of  building,  can  understand  and  operate,  and 


PLAIN  SPEAKING  103 

I  venture  to  assert  that  if  the  good-will  to  do  so  were  present  in 
your  Department,  the  organization  of  the  Office  on  the  basis 
of  the  present  law,  which  gives  you  the  right  to  employ  the 
best  designers  in  the  countr>%  could  be  brought  about  in  a 
few  weeks,  and  that  it  would  then  be  better  than  the  present 
one. 

I  do  not  forget  the  protestations  of  the  Supervising  Archi- 
tect of  his  readiness  and  anxiety  to  do  all  in  his  power  to  forward 
this  important  matter.  I  am  aware  that  you  yourself  stated 
to  the  gentlemen  of  the  Institute  that  you  were  in  hearty  accord 
with  them  on  the  subject;  I  am  also  aware  that  twelve  long 
months  have  since  passed,  during  which  nothing  whatever  has 
been  done  in  your  Department  looking  toward  the  carrying-out 
of  this  law,  except  at  the  eleventh  hour  when  Mr.  Secretary 
Curtis  stated  to  a  committee  the  four  principal  obstacles  which 
were  in  the  way. 

The  obstacles  are  not  real  ones,  and  never  were,  and  after 
carefully  looking  over  the  ground  I  can  see  no  others,  although 
I  am  tolerably  familiar  with  the  workings  of  the  Supervising 
Architect's  OfTice  in  Washington,  and  entirely  familiar  with  the 
law  on  the  subject.  You  now  inform  us,  in  effect,  that  the  law 
must  be  amended  before  you  will  act  under  it.  I  can  see  but 
one  amendment  which  is  needed  to  insure  the  satisfactory 
working  of  this  measure,  i.e.,  the  introduction  of  a  clause  order- 
ing the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  to  carry  out  its  plain  intent 
and  purpose,  and  not  leaving  it  to  his  discretion. 

I  have  the  honor  to  remain. 

Yours  faithfully  D.  H.  Burnham 

President,  A.I.A, 

To  this  letter  Secretary  Carlisle  made  reply : 

Washington,  D.C.,  March  12,  1894 
Mr.  D.  H.  Burnham, 
President  A.I.A. 

The  Rookery,  Chicago,  III. 
Sir,  —  Your  very  offensive  and  ungentlemanly  letter  of  the 
9th  instant  is  just  received,  and  you  are  .informed  that  this 


104    PRESIDENT  OF  INSTITUTE  OF  ARCHITECTS 

Department  will  have  no  further  correspondence  with  you  upon 
the  subject  to  which  it  relates,  or  any  other  subject. 

Very  respectfully 

J.  G.  Carlisle 

Secretary 

Mr.  Burnham's  letter  to  Secretary  Carlisle  may  be  criticised 
as  lacking  in  tact  and  in  respect  for  a  high  ofTicer  of  the  Gov- 
ernment. As  to  the  second  item,  even  a  Secretary  of  the  Treas- 
ury is  a  servant  of  the  American  people;  and  when  Congress 
dehberately  enacted  legislation  for  an  end  approved  even  by 
the  Secretary,  it  was  his  duty  to  carry  out  the  law  in  good 
faith.  As  to  the  matter  of  tact,  the  "American  Architect" 
aptly  says:  "We  now  feel  that  there  was  a  sort  of  rough-and- 
ready  propriety  in  using  the  unusually  plain  language  employed 
by  Mr.  Burnham,  as  it  was  the  means  of  bringing  to  the  view  of 
all  a  matter  which  has  been  too  long  conducted  in  the  depths 
and  labyrinths  of  ofTicialdom."  The  "Boston  Herald,"  then 
friendly  to  the  Administration,  was  of  the  opinion  that  "when 
Mr.  Burnham  found  that  the  matter  under  discussion  had  been 
deliberately  misrepresented  in  the  letter  from  Mr.  Carlisle,  he 
was  bound,  out  of  respect  to  his  position  as  ofTicial  head  of  his 
profession,  to  reply  as  he  did."  ^  At  any  rate,  the  thunder- 
storm cleared  the  air. 

After  Mr.  Burnham's  correspondence  with  Secretary  Car- 
lisle all  negotiations  between  the  Institute  and  the  Secretary  of 
the  Treasury  ceased.  In  May,  Bruce  Price  gave  a  dinner  at  the 
Union  Club,  New  York,  to  Assistant  Secretary  Curtis,  and  at 
the  suggestion  of  the  latter  a  bill  providing  for  a  commission  on 
public  buildings  was  prepared  by  George  Post,  was  revised  by 
'  American  Architect,  April  14,  1894. 


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SECRETARY  GAGE  ENFORCES  TARSNEY  ACT    105 

Secretary  Carlisle,  and  was  introduced  in  the  House  by  Repre- 
sentative McKaig.  Mr.  Burnham  was  one  of  the  dozen  archi- 
tects who  attended  the  hearing,  at  which  Richard  M.  Hunt 
presented  the  case  for  the  architects.  In  spite  of  all  efforts  the 
bill  failed.  Mr.  O'Rourke  charged  the  failure  to  the  unfortu- 
nate report  on  the  bill,  which  antagonized  members  of  Congress. 
Mr.  Carrere,  who  acted  as  manager  of  legislative  proceedings, 
related  a  sad  tale  of  discourtesy  and  opposition  on  the  part  of 
Chairman  Bankhead,  of  the  Public  Buildings  Committee,  in- 
stigated by  the  Treasury.^ 

In  1897,  however,  the  change  came.  Lyman  J.  Gage,  ap- 
pointed Secretary'  of  the  Treasury,  brought  to  the  office  all  the 
lessons  of  the  World's  Fair.  He  determined  that  so  long  as  he 
was  in  office  all  the  buildings  erected  by  the  Treasury  Depart- 
ment should  fairly  represent  the  art  of  the  country.  Acting 
under  the  Tarsney  Act,  competitions  were  ordered  for  the 
buildings  at  Norfolk,  Virginia,  Camden,  New  Jersey,  and  for 
the  Immigrant  Station  at  ElHs  Island,  New  York.^ 

Secretary  Gage  carried  on  his  reforms  by  asking  the  Insti- 
tute to  appoint  a  committee  to  examine  candidates  for  the 
office  of  Supervising  Architect.  President  Post  selected  Messrs. 
Burnham,  Peabody,  Chandler,  and  Carrere  to  act  with  himself 


'  A.I.A.  Proceedings,  1896,  p.  39.  Perhaps  it  is  due  to  Secretary  Carlisle 
to  say  that  he  ofTered  the  ofTice  of  Supervising  Architect  to  John  Carrere, 
who  declined  in  a  letter  which  traversed  the  entire  subject  and  concluded: 
"My  examination  of  the  office  and  its  possibilities  convinces  me  that  the 
underlying  principle  upon  which  it  is  based  is  radically  wrong,  and  that  it  is 
beyond  the  power  of  any  one  man  to  make  a  success  of  it.  The  system,  not 
the  man,  should  be  changed."    (See  A.I.A.  Proceedings,  1912,  p.  39.) 

2  Mr.  Post  and  Mr.  Burnham  acted  as  jurors  on  the  Norfolk  competition 
and  awarded  the  commission  to  Wyatt  &  Nolting.  Rankin  &  Kellogg  were 
successful  in  the  Camden  competition  and  Boring  &  Tilton  won  the  Immi- 
grant Station. 


106    PRESIDENT  OF  INSTITUTE  OF  ARCHITECTS 

in  the  matter,  James  Knox  Taylor  was  selected.  During  his 
term  of  office  he  worked  in  complete  sympathy  with  the  aims 
of  the  architectm-al  profession  and  raised  the  standard  of  Gov- 
ernment architecture  to  the  highest  point  attained  since  the 
construction  of  the  Treasury  Building. 

In  1912  Congress  repealed  the  Tarsney  Act,  "in  spite  of  the 
opposition  of  the  entire  architectural  body  of  the  country,  as 
well  as  all  other  art  associations  whose  attention  was  directed 
to  the  matter.  The  actual  reasons  for  the  repeal  are  not 
known,"  says  the  Institute  Report  for  1912,  "the  ostensible 
ones  being  so  capable  of  disproof  as  to  be  unworthy  of  consid- 
eration. As  the  matter  now  stands,  the  profession  of  archi- 
tecture is  under  the  Government  ban."  President  Walter 
Cook  in  his  address  brushed  aside  the  plea  of  economy  urged 
by  the  legislators  and  with  characteristic  irony  suggested  that 
the  Government,  having  resumed  control  of  architecture,  add 
factories  of  sculpture,  painting,  and  even  one  "to  turn  out  all 
odes,  sonnets,  or  lyric  verse  which  may  be  needed  to  celebrate 
the  achievements  of  our  enlightened  Republic." 

The  reports  show  that  the  real  reason  for  the  repeal  of  the 
Tarsney  Act  was  dissatisfaction  on  the  part  of  Congress  with 
the  fact  that  the  Government  was  paying  a  commission  of  six 
per  cent,  just  the  same  as  private  clients;  whereas  the  high 
value  of  materials  and  the  expensive  character  of  Government 
work  seemed  to  make  such  payments  exorbitant.^  The  Tars- 
ney Act  was  passed  after  a  full  discussion  at  which  the  archi- 
tects were  represented.  It  was  repealed  with  no  further  defence 


'  Hearings  before  the  sub-committee  of  the  House  Committee  on  Ap- 
propriations in  charge  of  the  Sundry  Civil  Bill  for  1913;  Part  1;  pp.  132- 
36,  208,  210,  216. 


REPEAL  OF  THE  TARSNEY  ACT  107 

than  that  of  James  Knox  Taylor,  the  Supervising  Architect, 
and  therefore  a  dependent  of  the  Appropriations  Committee. 
Mr.  Taylor  told  the  committee  that  the  prevailing  practice  in 
the  Supervising  Architect's  Office  was  to  submit  to  the  Com- 
mittee on  Public  Buildings  and  Grounds  an  estimate  of  cost 
for  a  public  building  in  a  given  town,  the  estimate  being  based 
on  the  needs  for  space  during  a  period  of  ten  years  in  the  future. 
The  building  having  been  authorized  and  the  limit  of  cost  hav- 
ing been  fixed  by  legislation,  an  appropriation  was  made  m  the 
Sundry  Civil  Bill.  Then  the  Supervising  Architect  had  plans 
prepared,  usually  in  his  own  office,  but  sometimes  by  outside 
architects.  Buildings  costing  less  than  half  a  million  dollars 
were  designed  in  his  office.  Under  the  Tarsney  Act  the  Secre- 
tary of  the  Treasury  selected  not  fewer  than  five  architects  to 
compete  for  the  commission  to  design  a  building,  the  selection 
being  based  on  ability.  The  programme  of  competition  was 
made  by  the  Supervising  Architect,  who  also  recommended 
the  jury  of  architects  to  make  the  award. 

The  chief  inquisitor  was  the  Honorable  Swagar  Sherley,  who 
had  a  number  of  grievances  against  prevaiUng  methods:  a 
marble  building  erected  in  a  brick  town;  interference  with 
plans  and  costs  on  the  part  of  senators  and  members  looking 
after  the  interests  of  their  home  towns;  double  supervision  by 
architects  and  Government ;  and  the  amount  of  the  commission. 
Mr.  Sherley  expressed  the  Congressional  attitude:  "WTiat 
struck  me  was  that  everywhere  else  in  life  a  man  who  gets  a 
job  of  very  large  proportions  is  wiUing  to  get  a  less  percentage 
on  it  than  on  a  small  job,  but  you  do  not  seem  to  think  that 
makes  any  difference  at  all." 

To  this  Mr.  Taylor  replied  that  the  Department  gave  out 


108    PRESIDENT  OF  INSTITUTE  OF  ARCHITECTS 

only  large  jobs,  so  that  there  were  no  small  ones.  The  Honor- 
able Joseph  Cannon,  who  acted  as  the  Greek  chorus,  inter- 
posed: 

"In  other  words,  the  organization  of  architects  met  and 
agreed  that  their  compensation  should  be  increased  from  five 
to  six  per  cent." 

Mr.  Taylor.  "That  is  it." 

Mr.  Cannon.  "And  you  pay  the  market  price." 

Mr.  Taylor.  "Yes,  sir." 

Mr.  Cannon.  "Or,  to  put  it  in  another  way,  that  is  the  union 
price." 

Mr.  Taylor.  "I  should  not  say  it  was  the  union  price." 

Mr.  Cannon.  "I  mean  the  organization  price." 

Mr.  Taylor.   "Yes,  the  organization  price." 

Mr.  Cannon.  "I  do  not  speak  of  it  in  any  criticising  way, 
but  the  fact  is  that  is  practically  the  union  scale  of  the  archi- 
tects." 

This  interchange  shows  the  working  of  the  Congressional 
mind  on  the  subject  of  employing  outside  architects  on  Gov- 
erimient  work;  and  there  are  no  indications  of  change.  The 
question  is  how  to  meet  a  recurring  situation. 

The  Honorable  J.  J.  Fitzgerald,  the  chairman  of  the  House 
Committee  on  Appropriations,  said  that  there  was  "a  rather 
general  universal  expression  of  opinion  that  the  Tarsney  Act 
should  be  repealed";  and  that  outside  architects  should  be 
employed  only  pursuant  to  specific  authorization  by  Congress, 
the  object  being  to  get  away  from  "the  system  of  paying  trust 
prices  for  services,  and  to  permit  the  Government  to  make 
contracts  with  architects  just  as  private  individuals  do."  For 
himself  he  favored  the  plan  under  which  the  Senate  and  House 
office  buildings  were  constructed.  The  work  was  placed  in 
charge  of  the  Superintendent  of  the  Capitol,  who  made  a  con- 


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GO  VERNMENT  WORK  DIFFERS  FROM  PRI VA  TE   109 

tract  with  Carrere  &  Hastings  to  design  the  buildings  at  a 
salary  of  310,000  a  year,  under  which  contract  they  received 
less  than  $30,000.  It  was  pointed  out  that  every  expense  was 
paid  from  the  building  fund;  and  that  the  310,000  a  year  rep- 
resented the  clear  profits  of  the  firm.^ 

Mr.  Taylor  advised  that  the  Tarsney  Act  be  modified  so  that 
the  Government  should  get  from  the  architect  drawings,  speci- 
fications, and  details,  and  such  inspection  as  would  enable  him 
to  see  that  his  ideas  were  being  carried  out,  leaving  the  actual 
construction  to  the  Government.  Such  is  the  general  basis  un- 
der which  work  is  now  being  done  in  cases  where  Congress 
authorizes  the  employment  of  expert  service. 

So  the  Tarsney  Act  was  repealed,  after  having  been  in  force 
since  1893  and  in  operation  smce  1897.  The  architects  received 
about  a  million  and  a  half  of  dollars  as  commissions  on  thirty- 
four  buildings  costing  over  twenty-eight  millions.  The  largest 
fee,  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  million,  went  to  Cass  Gilbert  for  the 
New  York  Custom  House.  Under  the  provisions  of  the  act 
authorizing  the  Washington  Post-Office  the  fee  of  D.  H.  Burn- 
ham  &  Co.  was  $120,000. 

The  controversy  between  Secretary  Carlisle  and  Mr.  Burn- 
ham  as  president  of  the  American  Institute  of  Architects  re- 
veals the  long-standing  and  as  yet  unsettled  fundamental 
dilTerence  in  opinion  between  the  Government  official,  whether 
legislator  or  executive  officer,  and  the  architect.  The  apparent 
rock  of  offence  is  the  fee.  The  Government  is  not  used  to  pay- 
ing for  personal  services  the  salaries  or  fees  usual  in  private 


'  The  first  arrangement  to  design  the  buildings  was  made  with  Peabody 
&  Stearns,  of  Boston,  who  stood  by  the  Institute  schedule  of  fees  and  so 
lost  the  commission. 


110    PRESIDENT  OF  INSTITUTE  OF  ARCHITECTS 

business,  save  in  the  lower  grades.  This  is  true  from  the  Presi- 
dent, Justices  of  the  Supreme  Court,  and  Cabinet  ofFicers 
down  to  heads  of  divisions.  Every  architect  who  undertakes 
Government  work  must  expect  to  take  part  of  his  compensation 
in  the  honor  and  prestige  such  work  brings,  and  also  he  must 
expect  to  serve  partly  from  a  sense  of  loyalty,  just  as  a  Sena- 
tor or  Congressman  does.  Plausible  arguments  may  be  urged 
against  such  a  view,  but  the  feeling  on  the  part  of  officials  that 
the  architect  should  serve  the  Nation  practically  without  profit 
is  pervasive,  widespread,  and  of  long  standing. 

Again,  the  Government  has  its  Office  of  Supervising  Archi- 
tect of  the  Treasury  on  which  it  depends  for  inspection  and 
accounting.  The  inspection  may  not  be  as  intelligent  as  in 
private  work;  but  it  is  more  rigid  and  less  open  to  compromise, 
which  involves  the  exercise  of  private  judgment  and  account- 
ability. The  accounting  also  is  involved  to  the  point  where  red- 
tape  seems  to  defeat  its  own  object;  but  experience  has  shown 
that  each  such  burdensome  requirement  is  devised  to  prevent 
fraud;  because  human  nature  is  prone  to  argue  that  it  is  no 
wrong  to  cheat  the  Government.  Not  that  the  cheating  would 
be  done  by  the  architect;  but  he  has  a  multitude  of  contractors 
whose  honesty  he  cannot  compel. 

Moreover,  in  monumental  buildings  such  as  the  Govern- 
ment requires  the  materials  have  comparatively  large  intrinsic 
value;  and  in  such  cases  a  fee  based  on  costs  seems  to  the  offi- 
cials excessive.  Here,  also,  the  argument  may  not  be  on  the 
side  of  the  Government,  but  to  officials  and  legislators  it  seems 
sound.  If,  therefore,  architects  desire  to  do  Government  work 
they  must  at  least  consider  the  official  point  of  view  and  be 
prepared  to  meet  it  in  one  way  or  another. 


BERNARD  R.  GREEN'S  WORK  111 

On  the  other  hand,  the  organization  of  the  Supervising  Ar- 
chitect's Office  has  been  uncertain  and  far  from  uniform;  so 
that  Congress  has  often  placed  the  control  of  construction  in 
the  hands  of  some  individual  who  has  shown  special  aptitude 
for  such  work.  Bernard  R.  Green  was  an  instance  in  point. 
For  more  than  fifty  years  he  superintended  the  construction 
of  one  building  after  another,  from  the  completion  of  the  Wash- 
ington Monument,  the  State,  War,  and  Navy  Building,  and 
the  Library  of  Congress  to  the  National  Museum.  It  was  in 
connection  with  the  latter  building  that  Mr.  Burnham  came  in 
contact  wdth  him. 

Mr.  Green  was  one  of  those  civil  engineers  who  appreciate 
the  architect's  —  or  artist's  —  point  of  view;  and  between  him 
and  the  many  artists  who  worked  with  him  from  time  to  time 
there  was  engendered  mutual  respect  and  consideration. 

Again,  the  Lincoln  Memorial  and  the  Arlington  Memorial 
Amphitheatre  have  been  constructed  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  Officer  in  Charge  of  Public  Buildings  and 
Grounds,  with  excellent  results  and  good  feeling  on  all  sides. 

Perhaps  a  system  as  near  the  ideal  as  this  world  permits 
would  be  found  in  the  preparation  of  the  programme  by  an 
expert  official  acquainted  with  the  requirements  of  the  Govern- 
ment in  relation  to  the  particular  structure;  then  the  selection 
of  an  architect  who  has  the  experience  and  equipment  neces- 
sary for  large  undertakings,  as  proved  by  executed  work.  The 
Government,  by  reason  of  meagre  salaries  paid,  cannot  expect 
to  obtain  from  its  employees  the  quahty  of  service,  in  either 
plan  or  design,  which  private  practice  develops.  Then  the 
general  contractor  may  well  be  displaced  by  a  specially  trained 
official,  whose  duty  it  should  be  to  obtain  the  maximum  of  qual- 


112  PRESIDENT  OF  INSTITUTE  OF  ARCHITECTS 

ity  and  economy.  This  would  relieve  the  architect  of  bickerings 
with  contractors  on  the  one  hand  and  on  the  other  from  the 
petty  details  of  business  management;  and  would  promote  the 
feeling  that  both  the  constructing  officer  and  the  architect  were 
actuated  by  the  common  aim  of  securing  for  the  Government 
the  best  returns  for  its  investment. 

The  one  essential  thing  that  the  architect  has  a  right  to  de- 
mand is  that  he  shall  be  permitted  properly  and  effectively  to 
put  his  creation  into  living  form.  Therefore  he  should  be 
charged  with  all  questions  of  location,  plan,  disposition,  and 
general  arrangement  of  buildings  and  grounds.  He  should  pre- 
pare preliminary  studies,  working  drawings,  details  and  speci- 
fications necessary  for  the  construction  of  the  building  in  ac- 
cordance with  Government  requirements.  He  should  furnish 
such  supervision  and  periodical  inspection  of  the  work  while  in 
process  of  erection  as  might  be  necessary  to  estabhsh  the  fact 
that  the  work  was  being  executed  in  conformity  with  the  design 
and  specifications.  The  superintendence  should  be  carried  on 
by  the  Government  constructing  official  who  would  practically 
fill  the  office  of  contractor.  This  official  also  should  be  charged 
with  engineering  problems,  except  such  portions  as  enter  into 
the  construction  of  the  building  and  require  the  collaboration 
of  the  architect. 

The  amount  of  the  architect's  fee  should  be  governed  by  all 
the  above-mentioned  considerations.  It  cannot  be  fixed  arbi- 
trarily for  all  Government  work.  Every  architect  should  be  left 
free  to  make  his  charges  reasonable  and  proper,  without  being 
held  to  the  Institute  schedule  for  private  work.  Loss  and  hu- 
miliation have  repeatedly  been  sulTered  by  eminent  architects 
who  held  out  for  Institute  schedule  fees  only  to  find  Govern- 


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THE  OLIVER  BUILDING,  PITTSBURGH 


CONCLUSIONS  113 

ment  work  taken  from  them  by  brethren  of  equal  professional 
standing,  but  of  more  elastic  moral  sense.  Other  architects 
have  reached  a  compromise,  have  obtained  the  work,  and  have 
been  satisfied  with  the  outcome. 

An  observation  of  more  than  thirty  years  of  Government 
building  leads  to  the  conclusion  that  when  the  mind  of  the  ar- 
chitect meets  the  mind  of  a  Government  official,  the  result  is 
apt  to  be  satisfactory.  There  must  be  good  faith  and  consider- 
ation on  both  sides. ^ 

The  1894  Convention  of  the  Institute  was  held  at  the  Fine 
Arts  Building  in  New  York  City,  beginning  October  15.  Mr. 
Burnham  in  his  opening  address  spoke  of  the  improvements 
in  the  methods  of  practice  during  the  past  twenty  years,  due 
largely  to  the  moral  support  of  the  Institute.  He  said: 

WTiile  the  Institute  has  from  tune  to  time  recorded  its  con- 
victions, it  has  refrained  from  insisting  too  rigidly  on  the  ob- 
servance of  its  rules.  Through  the  Institute  the  beliefs  of  the 
architects  have  been  crystallized,  while  each  man  has  been  left 
quite  free  to  pursue  his  own  course.  Though  as  individuals  we 
have  been  led  or  constrained  by  the  consensus  of  the  opinions 
of  the  Fellows  of  the  Institute,  we  have  been  moved  more  by 
a  desire  to  conform  to  the  established  standards  of  professional 
life  than  by  any  fear  of  discipline. 

Until  the  Schedule  of  Fees  was  published,  uniformity  of 
charges  did  not  exist,  and  there  was  no  authority  to  back  us 
in  our  demands  for  reasonable  remuneration.  Now,  however, 

'  The  Army  War  College,  designed  by  RIcKim,  Mead  &  White,  was  con- 
structed under  the  superintendence  of  Major  Sewall,  of  the  Engineer  Corps. 
The  general  lay-out  of  the  grounds  was  made  in  cooperation  with  Colonel 
William  M.  Black,  afterward  Chief  of  Engineers.  The  compensation  of  the 
architects  was  arranged  privately.  The  construction  of  the  Treasury  An- 
nex, designed  by  Cass  Gilbert,  was  superintended  by  the  Supervising  Archi- 
tect's OfTice.  The  compensation  was  arranged  between  Secretary  McAdoo 
and  Mr.  Gilbert. 


114    PRESIDENT  OF  INSTITUTE  OF  ARCHITECTS 

both  the  Federal  and  State  courts,  in  the  absence  of  agree- 
ments to  the  contrary,  accept  that  document  as  conclusive. 

In  the  long  run  men  are  dealt  with  according  to  their  estimate 
of  themselves,  and  if  we  seek  for  higher  standing  among  our 
countrymen,  we  must  live  up  to  the  ideals  of  our  more  unselfish 
moments.  Let  the  Institute,  therefore,  condemn  those  things 
which  we  have  all  called  wrong,  but  some  of  which  we  have  con- 
tinued to  do.  Let  this  condemnation  be  printed  on  the  Sched- 
ule of  Fees,  so  that  courts,  clients,  and  architects  hereafter  may 
not  fail  to  understand  our  views.  Let  the  publication  continue 
until  custom  shall  have  established  laws  too  rigid  to  be  broken 
and  until  all  men  have  learned  to  conform.  There  are  clients 
now  who  will  not  deal  with  architects  who  are  not  in  good 
standing  among  their  fellows.  This  is  a  growing  class  of  men. 
We  should  let  them  know  what  is  regarded  as  unprofessional 
conduct.  In  his  dealings  with  us,  I  believe  the  average  American 
will  readily  conform  to  the  standard  that  we  ourselves  set  up. 

If  clients  demand  and  easily  obtain  preliminary  services  for 
little  or  nothing,  it  is  our  fault,  not  theirs;  our  own  greed  and 
unfairness  to  each  other  enables  them  to  use  us.  We  know  this 
well  and  have  often  privately  spoken  of  it  among  ourselves. 
Let  us  put  a  stop  to  this  practice.  It  has  been  going  on  for 
hundreds  of  years,  but  it  has  always  been  productive  of  evil, 
and  the  time  has  come  to  say  so  publicly. 

A  young  man,  immature,  not  ready  for  independent  pro- 
fessional life,  makes  sketches,  or  goes  into  competition  without 
promise  of  pay.  In  an  evil  day  for  him,  his  design  is  accepted, 
and  at  a  bound  he  springs  into  full  practice.  Lie  makes  a 
financial  success  and  an  artistic  failure,  and  when  the  fever  of 
youth  is  past,  if  he  has  the  soul  of  a  real  architect,  he  looks 
back  with  bitter  sorrow  to  the  waste  of  his  best  possibihties. 
As  he  begins,  so  he  must  go  on,  not  knowing  enough  and  no 
longer  having  time  to  study;  his  last  work  is  like  his  first,  sug- 
gesting talent  or  mediocrity  according  to  the  nature  of  the  man, 
but  bearing  the  marks  of  weakness  due  to  arrested  develop- 
ment, and  stamped  with  the  author's  sad  consciousness  of  im- 
perfection or  conscious  insolence. 


DEATH  OF  RICHARD  MORRIS  HUNT        115 

The  custom  of  showing  designs  to  cUents  without  pay,  in  the 
hope  of  getting  a  job,  is  bad  for  the  architect,  worse  for  the 
Ghent,  and  worst  of  all  for  the  suffering  public,  who  must  be 
inflicted  with  the  crudities  of  our  youth. 

In  the  course  of  a  discussion  Mr.  Bumham  stated  his  con- 
victions as  to  the  province  of  the  Institute,  saying: 

I  do  not  believe  in  assuming  such  an  attitude  as  will  practi- 
cally result  in  men  feeling  that  unless  they  come  into  the  Insti- 
tute they  are  injured  before  the  public.  I  think  every  man 
must  be  left  independent.  There  are  plenty  of  practitioners 
who  do  not  desire  to  join  any  society;  their  bringing-up,  their 
theories  of  life,  are  opposed  to  society  life.  A  stigma  has 
already  unjustly  and  erroneously  been  cast  upon  this  society: 
it  is  said  that  we  are  a  trade-union.  Last  winter,  it  was  more 
than  once  said  in  print  that  the  architects  were  trying  to  force 
so-and-so  through  the  Institute.  We  do  not  want  to  be  a  trade- 
union.  We  do  not  want  power  in  the  sense  of  having  all  the 
architects  united  to  force  a  certain  conclusion  of  ours,  except 
through  moral  influence.  I  hope  that  this  will  ever  remain  a 
deliberative  professional  body. 

At  the  conclusion  of  the  Convention,  Mr.  Burnham  was 
again  elected  president,  the  constitution  permitting  one  reelec- 
tion. In  1895  the  Convention  w^as  held  at  St.  Louis  on  October 
15.  In  his  address  Mr.  Burnham  paid  tribute  to  "those  Fel- 
lows who  have  been  forever  removed  from  our  earthly  vision." 
Of  Richard  Morris  Hunt,i  he  said:  "When  the  door  of  the  fu- 

'  Richard  Morris  Hunt  and  Henry  Hobson  Richardson  for  many  years 
divided  the  personal  supremacy  in  American  architecture.  The  George 
Vanderbilt  house,  Biltmore,  North  Carolina,  seems  destined  to  keep  alive 
Hunt's  fame  as  Trinity  Church  is  to-day  the  enduring  expression  of 
Richardson's  genius.  Both  men  were  pupils  at  the  Ecole  des  Beaux  Arts, 
Hunt  being  the  first  and  Richardson  the  third  American  student;  both 
worked  in  offices  of  French  government  architects;  and  both  selected  for 
their  masters  men  whose  individualities  suited  their  own  peculiar  tem- 
peraments. Richardson  chose  Andre,  because  of  the  "bigness"  and  "stuff" 


116    PRESIDENT  OF  INSTITUTE  OF  ARCHITECTS 

ture  opened  and  let  this  giant  stalk  through,  we  almost  heard 
the  shout  of  welcome  from  the  mighty  masters  who  had  gone 
before  him.  They  must  have  recognized  at  once  his  right  to  a 
place  among  them,  by  his  lofty  bearing  and  the  noble  aspect  of 
his  countenance.  May  he  breathe  upon  our  souls  that  pure 
knowledge  of  law  which  he  is  now  enjoying,  that  through  us  the 
men  who  follow  may  be  enlightened." 

Mr.  Burnham  called  attention  to  the  fact  that  during  the 
year  1895  the  Beaux  Arts  had  first  issued  its  full  diploma  to 
Americans,  John  Van  Pelt  and  Herbert  Hale.  He  also  an- 
nounced the  establishment  in  Rome  of  a  school  for  those  who 
have  ah-eady  become  proficient  in  application  of  fundamental 
principles  of  architecture.  Although  it  had  been  in  operation 
only  about  one  year,  the  school  had  already  accomphshed 
valuable  work. 

in  his  designs  and  because  he  liked  great  round  arches  and  other  picturesque 
and  striking  features  of  Andre's  work.  Hunt,  because  he  preferred  the 
French  school  of  academic  architecture,  selected  Hector  Lefuel,  with  his 
splendor  and  monumental  feeling.  At  the  age  of  twenty-seven  Hunt  re- 
turned to  America  with  the  reputation  of  having  designed  the  Pavilion 
de  la  Bibliotheque,  a  portion  of  the  buildings  connecting  the  Tuileries 
with  the  Louvre;  and  Thomas  U.  "Walter  gave  him  work  on  the  comple- 
tion of  the  United  States  Capitol.  For  forty  years  he  practiced  his  pro- 
fession in  New  York  City.  He  was  impulsive,  quick-tempered,  an  un- 
flagging enthusiast,  fighting  always  for  what  he  believed  to  be  best,  and 
capable  of  enlisting  an  army  to  fight  with  him.  "His  genius  was  not  cre- 
ative and  he  did  not  strike  out  on  new  hues,  but  he  was  brimming  over 
with  vitality.  .  .  .  His  work  is  a  demonstration  of  the  value  of  authority, 
of  the  virtue  of  careful  training,  of  the  absolute  necessity  of  some  academic 
principles  on  which  a  work  of  art  can  be  based  with  consistency  and  yet 
with  the  flexibility  of  nature."  (See  American  Architect,  July-September, 
1895,  pp.  45,  70,  97.) 

The  author  has  often  walked  up  Fifth  Avenue  late  at  night  with  Charles 
McKim,  who  said  he  slept  better  for  enjoying  the  sight  of  Hunt's  W.  K. 
Vanderbilt  house;  and  having  taken  a  look  at  it,  he  was  ready  to  return 
home  for  another  cigar  before  going  to  bed. 


CHAPTER  IX 

EUROPE  FOR  THE  FIRST  TIME 
1896 

THE  Fiirst  Bismarck,  sailing  from  New  York  on  Jan- 
uary 28,  1896,  carried  Mr,  and  Mrs.  Burnham  for 
their  first  trip  to  Europe.  He  was  nearly  fifty  years 
old  and  had  earned  both  the  right  and  the  means  to  enjoy  the 
new  experiences.  In  every  sense  of  the  word  he  was  a  self- 
made  man.  The  schools  had  not  trained  him  for  his  life-work, 
nor  had  he  been  brought  up  among  masterpieces  which  with- 
out consciousness  on  his  part  shaped  his  thoughts  and  tastes. 
He  was  a  genuine  product  of  the  Middle  West,  ready  to  seize 
opportunity  as  fast  as  presented;  always  rising  to  the  situa- 
tion, mastering  and  dominating  it.  He  possessed  a  discrimi- 
nating mind  which  instinctively  recognized  the  high  things 
and  which  quickly  absorbed  from  both  persons  and  objects 
impressions  and  lessons.  He  never  ceased  to  be  a  student  and 
a  learner;  he  never  was  contented  until  he  had  considered  all 
possible  solutions  of  a  problem;  but  he  was  no  laggard.  He 
never  paused  in  hesitation  or  turned  back,  but  ever  drove  for- 
ward to  the  end.  Hence  it  was  that  his  life  was  a  record  not  of 
dreams  but  of  accomplishments. 

The  European  trip  was  to  be  a  holiday  in  a  busy  life,  indeed, 
but  it  was  also  to  be  a  means  of  feeding  a  nature  starved  for  the 
want  of  certain  amenities  of  living  which  it  craved.  The  Diary 
which  records  his  impressions  reads  like  a  record  of  discovery. 
He  had  read  and  thought  and  dreamed  of  the  Past  as  embodied 


118  EUROPE  FOR  THE  FIRST  TIME 

in  the  lands  beyond  the  sea;  and  now  he  was  to  test  his  impres- 
sions by  actual  experience  and  to  find  out  what  Europe  had  to 
offer  to  him  in  his  progress  through  Hfe. 

With  him,  besides  his  wife,  were  Mr.  and  Mrs.  J.  B.  Sherman. 
The  baggage  had  been  stowed  the  day  before,  and  they  were 
free  to  enjoy  that  most  exquisite  moment  of  a  hohdaj^  when  the 
lines  of  the  past  have  been  cast  off  and  the  bow  of  the  mind 
heads  for  the  open  sea  of  new  experiences.  Tliey  were  interested 
keenly  in  a  group  of  Italian  toughs,  who  had  come  to  the  dock 
to  give  a  send-off  to  a  niunber  of  their  fellows  returning  to 
Palermo,  and  who  expressed  their  exuberance  by  smashing  one 
another's  hats,  deriding  the  departing  ones,  and  advismg  them 
to  "shova  da  cola  under  dat  steam,  but  doan  shova  dat  ash." 
Free  of  the  noisy  tugs  chartered  by  friends  of  departing  travel- 
lers who  followed  the  ship  down  the  bay,  the  vessel  settled  her- 
self for  her  long  voyage,  and  "the  last  thing  we  saw  this  evening 
was  the  sun  setting  over  a  dark  sea  with  a  lowering  look  indi- 
cating plenty  of  wind  —  which  we  got  duly  the  next  day." 

On  February  4  the  travellers  reached  Funchal,  and  on  land- 
ing at  the  stone  pier  "were  instantly  in  fairyland."  The  Diary 
records: 

We  got  into  two  sleds  drawn  by  small  bro\Mi  oxen  and  were 
drawn  through  streets  more  charming  for  quaintness  than  I 
ever  beheved  could  exist  in  our  day.  We  then  took  the  railway 
and  went  high  up  on  a  mountain;  on  each  side  of  us  were  beau- 
tiful villas  and  gardens  covered  with  a  bewildering  succession 
of  rich  foliage,  many  of  the  trees,  shrubs  and  flowers  being  new 
to  us.  The  flowers  were  too  gorgeous  for  words.  In  the  villas 
there  were  people  on  the  terraces  and  looking  out  of  the  win- 
dows; a  priest  with  wide  shovel-hat,  a  group  of  women  with 
rich  colored  headgear,  many  children,  many  men  and  girls. 


ENTRANCE  TO  THE  BURNHAM  HOME,  EVANSTON 


FOURTH  OF  JULY  ON  THE  LAWN  AT  EVANSTON 


THE  AZORES  119 

As  we  climbed  we  looked  back  at  the  majestic  mountains  with 
their  superb  seal-browns  and  rich  greens,  all  laid  over  an  under- 
color of  red  ochre,  mingled  with  the  deep  blue  of  sea  and  sky. 
If  Europe  can  beat  this,  it  will  be  too  much  for  me !  We  came 
down  on  sleds  steered  by  men  who  held  the  front  runners  by 
ropes.  The  head  man  shouted  "Va,"  and  away  we  went  over 
the  steep,  narrow  streets,  just  wide  enough  for  two  sleds  to 
pass.  We  whizzed  down  at  a  dizzy  pace  over  the  fine  paving 
of  small  stones  set  crosswise  of  the  road  and  arranged  so  as  to 
form  a  sort  of  corrugation  or  flight  of  steps. 

On  each  side  were  walls  with  curious  old  doorways  opening 
into  fine  private  grounds  of  rich  people.  Occasionally  we 
crossed  other  streets,  also  very  narrow,  and  through  them 
caught  charming  vistas  of  picturesque  houses  and  towers,  with 
the  mountains  beyond.  Lower  do\STi  we  came  into  streets  of 
wine-shops,  tobacco-shops,  and  others  through  which  we  con- 
tinued to  run  rapidly;  the  men  shouting  at  every  step  with  a 
prolonged  cadence  at  the  end  of  each  short  sentence,  till  both 
said  "Va"  and  stopped  to  rest  at  a  wine-shop,  to  take  a  drink 
at  our  expense.  Then  "Va,"  and  down  we  came  fast  enough  to 
make  one  fear  a  smash-up.  The  road  turned  and  twisted  down 
to  the  beautiful  town,  its  narrow  width  still  bounded  by  the 
high  walls,  stained  many  colors  and  surmounted  with  great 
masses  of  flowers  —  cameUias  of  various  colors,  thousands  in 
a  bunch,  the  running  heUotrope,  then  roses,  honeysuckle,  then 
bougainvillia,  then  a  dozen  things  one  never  heard  of,  and  over 
all  the  dark  rich  foliage  of  the  magnolia,  the  queer  and  very 
beautiful  evergreens  and  many  trees  whose  names  I  never 
heard  before  and  cannot  remember  now.  The  men  who  ran  us 
were  old-fashioned  Portuguese  pirates,  their  heads  bound  in 
bandanas.  They  must  have  been  the  same  fellows  who  sailed 
the  Spanish  Main  in  buccaneer  days.  At  last  we  reached  the 
bottom  of  the  two  miles  of  slide  and  then  dined  in  a  funny  old 
hotel,  attached  to  which  is  a  garden  fit  for  Paradise.  Then  we 
started  on  a  walk,  the  like  of  which  I  did  n't  expect  to  come  to 
me  ever.  The  quaint  old  beauty  of  the  streets,  with  the  masses 
of  color  of  walls  and  flowers  will  never  be  forgotten. 


120  EUROPE  FOR  THE  FIRST  TIME 

February  7.  William,  our  little  German  steward,  called  me 
while  it  was  still  dark.  I  looked  out  the  porthole  above  my 
bunk  and  could  see  the  outline  of  the  African  land.  I  ran  out  on 
deck  just  before  sunrise.  We  were  approaching  the  Pillars  of 
Hercules,  the  gateway  to  the  Mediterranean  Sea.  The  African 
coast  was  very  beautiful.  The  sun  rose  and  tinted  the  land 
with  lovely  light  pink  madder.  The  harbor  of  Gibraltar  was 
filled  with  craft  large  and  small.  There  were  British  gunboats 
and  ships-of-war,  traders  and  plenty  of  lateen-rigged  luggers, 
their  masts  slanting  forward.  The  town  is  quaint  and  old;  its 
narrow  streets  are  lined  with  substantial  structures,  built 
mainly  of  stucco,  though  much  stone  is  used.  The  evening  was 
wonderful.  The  mountains  were  rich  rose  madder  below  and 
the  peaks  were  pale  rose,  and  the  sky  deep  blue  with  dusky 
shades  near  the  mountains.  The  peaks  of  the  Sierras  in  Spain 
and  of  the  gigantic  Atlas  Mountains  in  Africa  and  the  Coast 
Range  of  Portugal  and  Gibraltar  itself,  fourteen  hundred  feet 
high,  all  were  colored  with  the  wonderful  evening  glow.  I  do 
not  expect  ever  to  see  such  beauty  of  color  again. 

February  8.  I  was  out  of  my  berth  before  the  sun  came  up. 
Again  I  was  astonished  and  carried  away  by  a  total  surprise. 
I  had  thought  the  course  would  lie  near  the  African  coast. 
When  I  looked  out  I  saw  glorious  purple  mountains  about  five 
miles  away  to  the  north.  They  were  the  coast  of  Spain,  and  far 
above  and  inland  of  them  arose  the  majestic  Sierra  Nevada, 
the  snow-capped  mountains.  These  furthest  mountains  were 
rosy  with  the  first  light  of  morning.  Those  below  were  still  a 
beautiful  purple  in  the  coming  dawn.  For  hours  we  ran  along 
this  Spanish  coast,  while  dreams  swelled  big  by  imagination 
blotted  out  the  present  and  many  centuries  of  the  past.  Again 
the  Roman  fleet  swept  by,  only  to  melt  in  the  distance  and  so 
give  place  to  the  lateen-rigged  Moorish  ships  carrying  the  dark- 
skinned  warriors  of  Africa  to  Andalusia.  On  board  the  usual 
routine  life  went  on,  but  the  deck  and  the  people  were  unreal 
things.  We  were  bound  for  the  ports  from  which  these  very 
Moors  sailed  out  when  going  to  their  northern  conquest. 

February  9.   Up  early  and  out  on  deck.   The  African  coast 


NICE  AND  THE  RIVIERA  121 

in  view,  more  giant  mountains  and  most  reverently  welcome 
they  were.  How  noble  and  dignified  this  world  is  after  all. 
Power  and  struggle  were  before  us,  royalty  in  fact  clothed  in 
purple  with  the  golden  morning  cro\\Ti  of  high  peaks;  Africa 
saying  "good  morning,"  Aryan's  son  returning  to  the  gateway 
of  the  East  through  which  his  fathers  came.  As  Spain  looks 
do\\Ti  on  us,  so  did  Africa,  echoing  the  splendor  that  had  fallen 
on  "snowy  summits  old  in  story."  0,  day  never  to  be  for- 
gotten !  you  bring  glory  to  eyes  that  never  saw  you  except  in 
dreams,  and  dreams  hereafter  shall  be  wider  and  richer  because 
of  you. 

February  11.  The  Riviera  is  before  us.  In  the  harbor  are 
nine  large  French  battleships  and  as  we  come  to  anchor  the 
morning  gun  is  fired  from  the  Admiral's  ship  and  the  colors  are 
broken  out  on  all  the  vessels  in  the  port.  The  drive  to  Nice  is 
among  the  villas  that  rise  above  the  road  all  the  way  along. 
The  terraces  are  covered  by  fine  trees  and  shrubs  and  are  pro- 
tected by  very  fine  stone  balustrades  and  approached  by  stairs, 
more  or  less  magnificent.  We  took  a  carriage  to  Monte  Carlo, 
where  we  arrived  at  noon.  After  lunch  we  visited  the  Casino, 
where  there  were  five  hundred  people,  half  of  them  playing. 

February  13.  We  returned  to  Nice  by  the  upper  Corniche 
drive.  In  the  afternoon  we  took  a  carriage  trimmed  with  flow- 
ers and  a  big  basket  filled  with  bouquets  and  w^nt  out  on  the 
beautiful  promenade  of  the  Riviera  to  help  at  the  Battle-of-the- 
Flowers. 

February  17.  We  landed  and  took  cars  up  to  Carthage. 
There  we  saw  many  bits  of  old  architecture,  but  the  glory  of  it 
is  gone.  The  Romans  and  the  Moors  did  their  w^ork  too  well. 
They  are  excavating  now,  however,  and  are  beginning  to  show 
the  foundations  of  the  old  town.  We  saw  a  nearly  perfect 
Winged  Victory  of  Greece's  best  day,  evidently  of  the  old  Pen- 
telic  marble;  and  many  fragments  of  superb  carving. 

February  19.  We  arrived  at  Malta  early  in  the  morning. 
We  went  by  carriage  up  to  the  splendid  church  of  St.  John. 
A  grand  mass  was  going  on,  and  I  would  gladly  have  stayed 
through  it.   Hundreds  of  celebrated  Knights  of  St.  John,  the 


122  EUROPE  FOR  THE  FIRST  TIME 

Knights  of  Malta,  are  buried  beneath  chancel  and  aisles,  un- 
der the  sanctuary,  and  in  the  crypts  under  the  church.  Those 
in  the  chancel  and  aisles  have  each  a  slab  of  precious  marble 
inlaid  with  mosaic.  Some  of  these  slabs  are  so  fine  in  decora- 
tion one  can  scarcely  leave  them.  We  visited  the  old  palace, 
the  present  governor's  mansion  and  saw  the  armor  worn  by  the 
Commandery  of  the  Order  of  Malta  from  1250  down  to  our 
time,  each  having  the  Knights'  arms  quartered  with  those  of 
Malta. 

February  21.  We  did  not  come  in  sight  of  the  African  coast 
until  we  were  nearly  in  the  harbor  of  Alexandria.  There  we  saw 
the  low,  sandy  shore  much  like  our  owti  at  Evanston.  Indeed 
for  some  tune  it  was  hard  to  believe  we  were  on  the  Mediter- 
ranean and  not  on  Lake  Michigan.  The  landing  scene  was 
wonderfully  brilliant.  Fu-st  we  struck  into  and  passed  through 
a  turquoise  sea  so  exquisite  as  to  cause  every  one  to  hang  over 
the  rail  gazing  into  it.  The  pilot-boat  came  bounding  over  the 
crests  and  swoing  alongside,  riding  on  pale  blue  dreams  of 
waves,  then  we  ran  in  through  the  dark  channel  with  half  re- 
vealed rocks  here  and  there,  and  finally  ran  behind  the  old 
Heptasadium,  which  anciently  was  a  breakwater,  but  now  is 
a  broad  tongue  of  land  on  which  stands  the  summer  palace  of 
the  Khedive.  The  harbor  was  full  of  boats,  those  coming  to  the 
ship  had  Koptic  boatmen  with  red  coats  and  white  turbans. 
They  came  in  great  numbers  and  fought  for  first  place  at  the 
gangway,  chattering  like  monkeys  and  appearing  to  be  fighting 
with  one  another. 

February  22.  We  landed,  went  through  the  customs  officers 
by  the  help  of  a  few  cigars,  and  boarded  the  train.  In  our  car- 
riage were  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Harry  Oliver  and  his  niece.  On  each 
side  of  us  through  the  Delta  was  the  richest  land  in  the  world,  • 
splendid  in  color,  every  acre  under  cultivation.  We  saw  the 
ancient  operations  going  on,  raising  water  by  the  wheel;  camels, 
donkeys,  buffaloes,  and  thousands  of  people.  The  color  was 
varied  by  great  fields  of  mustard  and  blue  flowers,  by  red 
earths  and  a  thousand  greens.  We  ran  through  a  succession  of 
picturesque  mud  towns  bearing  names  old  in  history  before 


3 


H    5 

5  ^ 


EGYPT  123 

Caesar  came;  skirted  lakes,  arms  of  the  sea,  where  Cleopatra 
and  Antony  lived  and  loved.  We  reached  Cairo  about  noon. 
The  hotel  with  its  raised  terrace  coming  out  into  the  street,  the 
crowd  of  picturesque  dragomen  always  standing  in  groups  and 
waiting;  the  dress  and  ceremony  of  the  guests,  and  then  the 
street  scenes  with  the  running  cries,  all  formed  a  whole,  the 
animation  and  joyousness  of  which  was  delightful.  We  rode 
about  town  in  the  afternoon.  The  great  mosques  had  mighty 
little  interest  for  me,  but  the  winding  streets  had  much.  We 
retired  early  after  arranging  with  Edward  Ayer  to  go  to  the 
Pyramids  with  him  to-morrow.  We  found  numbers  of  people  we 
knew  —  Ayer  and  wife,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Porter,  IVIr.  and  Miss 
Cassatt,  and  many  others  were  there.  Arthur  Orr  had  just 
gone,  also  Charles  McKim. 

February  23.  Our  hrst  view  of  the  Pyramids  gave  us  the 
sight  of  Ghezeh  black  against  the  sands  of  the  Lybian  desert. 
We  lunched  at  a  hotel  built  as  a  private  house  by  an  English- 
man, and  then  each  mounted  a  camel  and  started  up  to  the  old 
stone  piles.  We  went  among  them  all,  by  the  Sphinx,  down  into 
the  tombs,  Ed.  Ayer  acting  as  guide,  and  such  a  guide  no  one 
ever  had.  I  thank  him  now  and  always  will  for  what  he  did 
that  day.  Here  for  the  first  time  the  past  came  and  enveloped 
me  fully  and  wholly,  and  I  lived  as  if  in  the  twenty-fifth  cen- 
tury before  Christ;  not  a  thing  of  the  present  but  our  dress  and 
the  words  we  spoke  to  each  other;  aU  else  was  as  it  had  been, 
even  the  face  on  the  coffin  case  which  gazed  up  at  us  from  the 
bottom  of  the  great  excavation.  The  views  of  the  Pyramids 
and  Ghezeh  and  those  back  of  old  Memphis  and  those  still  fur- 
ther south  are  wonderful.  The  architects  chose  that  high  bank 
of  sand,  the  commencement  of  the  Lybian  Desert,  because  it 
formed  an  architectural  base  or  terrace  for  the  mighty  monu- 
ment, and  because  they  would  not  here  be  in  competition  with 
the  mountains  themselves.  So  they  quarried  the  limestone 
from  the  Arabian  side,  hauled  it  across  a  plain,  across  the  Nile, 
then  over  another  plain  and  up  the  sandy  beach,  instead  of 
building  where  the  stone  was  found.  The  distance  must  be 
fifteen  miles.   I  honor  the  designer  who  chose  the  location  and 


124  EUROPE  FOR  THE  FIRST  TIME 

the  King  who  let  him  do  it.  They  have  enabled  men  forever 
to  feel  the  greatness  of  their  conception  and  execution.  Would 
that  moderns  could  follow  this  example !  We  came  back  in  our 
victoria  through  the  wonderful  Arabian  Nights  approach  to 
the  city,  through  the  winding  roads  in  the  town  bordered  with 
palaces  and  pakns  among  swarms  of  people  and  camels,  with 
the  beautiful  runners  skimming  ahead  to  clear  the  way  for 
their  masters. 

February  26.  We  met  IVIrs.  Anderson  ^  and  went  to  visit  the 
palaces  of  Three  Princes.  Margaret  and  Kate  ^  went  Lq  and 
talked  with  the  royal  ladies  while  I  cooled  my  heels  in  the  re- 
ception-rooms, drank  coffee,  smoked  cigarettes,  and  talked  with 
the  attendants.  We  dined,  then  went  about  with  the  Dalibas 
and  Mrs.  Ayer  and  saw  the  howling  Dervishes  and  then  came 
home,  Margaret  and  Mrs.  Ayer  first  visiting  the  dancing  girls. 

February  29.  Quarantine  at  Beyrouth.  Damascus  only  a 
few  miles  back  behind  the  mountains,  but  we  cannot  go  ashore. 
Beyrouth  is  a  town  of  nearly  100,000  people.  It  should  be  the 
most  delightful  place  on  the  East  coast.  It  is  under  Turkish 
dominion  and  that  settles  it.  It  is  very  dirty  and  uninteresting, 
and  the  people  are  dull  and  apathetic.  They  don't  seem  to  have 
any  energy  or  any  hope,  but  just  let  the  fleas  bite  them.  They 
don't  even  resent  the  operation  enough  to  scratch. 

March  5.  We  arrived  at  Jerusalem's  port,  Jaffa,  early  in  the 
morning,  and  put  off  for  shore  through  the  breakers  between 
the  rocks.  From  the  ship  one  can  see  the  mountains  where 
Jerusalem  is.  The  Valley  of  Sharon  is  a  dream,  the  land  of 
Judea  a  vision,  and  the  tribe  of  Dan  must  have  preferred  the 
location  of  its  south  division.  Joseph  the  guide,  a  wily  old 
Hebrew,  and  his  son  did  well  by  us.  Mrs.  Egan  was  in  our  com- 
partment and  Walter  came  in  every  other  minute  to  see  that 
she  was  not  lonesome. 

We  arrived  in  Jerusalem  at  noon,  took  our  luncheon  in  the 
new  hotel,  with  David's  tower  outside  and  the  roof  of  Uriah's 
house  below  us.  We  were  right  against  the  Jaffa  Gate  and  our 

1  Mother  of  Peirce  Anderson. 

"  Mrs.  Burnham  and  Mrs.  Sherman. 


PALESTINE  125 

feet  rested  on  David's  own  ground.   Then  we  took  our  way 
down  to  the  Holy  Sepulchre. 

March  6.  This  afternoon  we  visited  the  Mount  of  Olives, 
returning  around  the  walls  outside  the  town,  so  we  can  say  we 
have  been  clear  around  Jerusalem. 

March  8.  The  classic  lands  of  Greece  came  in  sight  early 
this  afternoon.  We  ran  through  glorious  islands  all  day.  The 
view  of  Rhodes  on  our  right  was  very  fine.  I  made  one  large 
water-color  of  Rhodes  —  poor  as  usual. 

March  9.  We  found  ourselves  in  the  harbor  of  Smyrna  early 
in  the  morning  and  again  in  the  presence  of  mountains  that 
come  to  the  sea.  There  is  one  grave  mountain  here  at  Smyrna, 
lying  east  of  the  town,  on  whose  top  a  scattered  snow-covering 
rests  —  a  noble  gentleman,  like  Bayard,  a  quite  strong  aristo- 
crat. Its  color  is  not  in  my  box,  a  clear,  silver  gray,  with  pink 
as  an  undertone.  In  the  strong  light  of  cloudless  day  it  main- 
tains its  dignity,  tenderness  and  deep  mterest  for  one  who  has 
the  good  fortune  to  see  it.  The  American  cruiser,  San  Francisco, 
was  in  the  roadstead,  and  many  of  our  people  visited  it.  Ad- 
miral Selfridge  and  Captain  Hunker  came  over  to  visit  our 
ship  before  we  sailed.  As  we  left  the  harbor  to-night  the  San 
Francisco  showed  four  very  beautiful  searchlights,  played  her 
signals  by  lanterns  and  gave  us  music  from  her  band. 

March  10.  About  noon  we  arrived  at  the  Bosphorus,  at  the 
mouth  of  which  through  a  sunbreak  shone  the  old  city  of  Stam- 
boul ;  then  we  passed  the  Golden  Horn  and  Pera,  and  went  on 
up  through  the  Hellespont  into  the  Black  Sea.  Here  the  clouds 
broke  away  and  the  most  glorious  picture  was  disclosed.  The 
fortresses  of  Asia  in  Europe  on  either  side  with  the  wonderful 
picturesque  mountains,  villages,  palaces,  ships  and  water,  all 
united  to  form  a  splendid  panorama.  In  the  evening  the  town 
was  beautiful  as  the  sun  set.  The  old  part  deep  purple,  the  new 
still  shining  white  in  the  light,  the  Horn  filled  with  shipping. 

March  1 1 .  We  landed  by  boat  and  were  driven  by  carriage  to 
Santa  Sophia.  I  had  pictured  it  as  splendid  in  color,  outside 
and  in.  The  exterior  is  nothing  and  the  interior,  though  noble 
and  imposing  in  size  and  general  form,  lacks  much  of  the  splcn- 


126  EUROPE  FOR  THE  FIRST  TIME 

dor  I  had  anticipated.'  We  put  on  shoes  and  marched  through 
it,  however,  and  enjoyed  it  much,  but  not  the  dirty  town  itself. 
"We  went  through  the  bedraggled  bazaars,  lunched  poorly  at  a 
cafe. 

March  12.  In  the  evening  the  Sultan,  havmg  just  married  a 
wife  for  the  nineteenth  time,  had  the  town  illuminated  and 
glorious  fireworks  set  ofT  for  tw^o  hours  or  more  just  above  us  on 
the  hills  in  the  palace  grounds.  The  effect  with  the  buildings 
was  magnificent. 

March  14.  Again  we  are  in  the  balmy  au",  briUiant  sunshine 
enveloping  us,  and  the  opalescent  islands  of  Greece  all  around 
us.  Again  the  sea  is  vivid  blue  and  the  poetic  land  of  this  whole 
globe  almost  within  touch.  In  the  afternoon  every  effect  pro- 
duced by  mountains,  skies  and  water  was  perfection  as  we 
coasted  close  to  Euboea  and  saw  temple-crowned  hills,  distant 
snow-clad  mountains,  great  islands  and  wondrous  Uquid  skies. 
A\Tien  we  rounded  to  the  first  vision  of  Attica,  Colonel  Stack- 
pole  leaned  against  me  and  whispered  the  whole  of  Byron's 
"Isles  of  Greece."  Margaret  and  I  stood  in  the  bows  till  we 
drew  close  in  the  channel  at  Piraeus.  There  is  nothing  hke  this 
spot  in  all  the  world.  The  islands  enclose  a  deep-blue  bay. 
High  mountains  cover  the  island.  The  Acropolis  rises  out  of  the 
centre  of  the  plain  like  a  jewel,  and  on  it  from  afar  shines  the 
Parthenon. 

March  15.  Here  we  were  in  Athens.  We  visited  the  school 
and  met  Mr.  Richardson ;  then  called  on  the  American  Minister. 
The  city  is  clean  and  beautiful ;  even  its  modern  buildings  are 
lovely.  The  spirit  of  old  Greece  has  not  departed.  It  still 
clmgs  to  nearly  everything.  In  the  two  days  we  visited  the 
Acropolis  and  saw  the  sun  set  from  it  once.  It  was  a  perfect 
evening  and  we  sat  entranced,  speechless  on  the  rocks,  amid 
the  fallen  columns. 

March  16.  Athens !  Athens !  The  Acropolis,  the  Mycene  col- 
lection, old  Agamemnon,  his  crown  crumbling  over  his  noble 
skull!  Then  the  delightful  ride  to  Eleusis.  The  wrae-shops,  the 

'  In  his  latter  years  Mr.  Burnham  learned  more  fully  to  appreciate  the 
Byzantine  architecture. 


J3 


EC 
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IN  ROME  WITH  CHARLES  McKIM  127 

farms,  the  Bay  of  Salamis;  the  Apollo  ruins,  hke  the  Parthenon 
in  style,  of  Doric.  The  ride  back !  The  search  in  a  rowboat  for 
the  ship !  Dinner,  enthusiasm  on  deck,  and  the  saiUng  away ! 

March  17.  I  have  the  spirit  of  Greece  once  and  forever 
stamped  on  my  soul.  It  is  the  blue  flower;  the  rest  of  life  must 
be  the  dream  and  this  land  of  Greece  the  reality.  It  has  all 
seemed  vtvy  familiar.  The  great  amphitheatre  in  which  Athens 
lies,  the  Acropolis,  the  view  from  it,  the  shapes  of  the  hills  and 
the  colorings  of  everything.  I  imagine  this  is  due  to  my  old  resi- 
dence in  the  mountains  of  Nevada,  but  at  times  I  have  felt 
sure  I  was  here  before. 

March  20.  Early  this  morning  we  arrived  at  Naples.  There 
was  the  smoking  mountain  just  as  we  had  imagined  it.  Every- 
thing was  familiar.  We  drew  inside  the  mole  and  went  ashore 
at  once  and  proceeded  to  enjoy  one  of  the  most  delightful  morn- 
ings of  our  trip.  We  went  to  the  Aluseum,  to  the  beautiful 
shore  drive  and  to  the  Aquarium.  We  boarded  the  train  at  2.10 
for  Rome,  arrived  there  at  eight  o'clock,  went  to  the  Continen- 
tal Hotel,  found  McKim,  Lord,^  and  the  Chevalere  del  Nero. 
It  was  altogether  too  delightful  to  find  Charles.  I  love  the 
man!  He  was,  as  he  has  ever  been,  most  grateful  to  me.  After 
settling  the  others  I  set  out  with  him  for  the  School  of  Rome  — 
our  school !  We  found  it  on  a  walled-in  space,  high  up ;  fine  old 
trees  about  it  and  just  the  spot  and  the  house  for  us.  The  men. 
Lord  and  pupils,  were  doing  well  and  were  all  delighted  with 
the  work  and  themselves.  We  saw  Professor  Hale  ^  and  had  a 
long  talk  with  him  in  his  quarters  until  one  o'clock  in  the 
morning. 

March  21.  Rome!  To  be  in  it,  to  wake  up  in  it!  What  a 
delight!  Every  nerve  in  one's  body  seems  to  take  a  separate 
delight  in  the  fact.  We  took  carriages  early  —  Del  Nero  acting 
as  our  guide.  He  drove  us  up  on  the  high  hillside  and  gave  us 
the  lay  of  Rome.  He  lunched  with  us  and  then  Margaret  and 

1  Austin  Lord,  director  of  the  American  School  [now  Academy]  in 
Rome,  1994-96. 

2  William  Gardner  Hale,  head  of  the  Latin  department,  Chicago  Uni- 
versity; first  director  of  the  American  School  of  Classical  Studies  in  Rome, 
1895-96. 


128  EUROPE  FOR  THE  FIRST  TIME 

I  went  to  St.  Peter's  and  the  Campagna  by  the  old  Appian 
Way. 

March  22.  Charles  McKim  and  our  great  afternoon  on  the 
Campagna ! 

March  23.  The  Pantheon  with  Charles  McKim,  a  visit  to  the 
school  and  tea  with  Mrs.  Hale. 

March  24.  At  the  new  Museum  with  Charles  Coleman  ^  to  see 
the  wonderful  new  running  figure  and  the  draped  woman. 
Start  for  Genoa  at  8.50;  all  on  hand  to  say  good-bye,  —  Del 
Nero,  Charles  Coleman  —  with  his  cocktails. 

March  27.  Wind  came  out  of  the  Gulf  of  Lyons.  The  sea  was 
heavy  and  the  sky  wild  —  a  new  condition  of  things  for  us 
favored  tourists.  We  struggled,  but  submitted  to  it,  and  all  day 
decks  and  dining-rooms  were  deserted.  But  in  the  afternoon 
the  sea  was  calmer,  and  again  the  tremendous  Spanish  coast 
loomed  up,  but  gray  and  sad  compared  with  the  splendor 
tlu-own  over  it  when  we  coasted  by  early  in  February. 

March  28.  W^e  saw  Gibraltar  like  a  swan  on  the  waters,  with 
blue  mountains  beyond.  We  sailed  at  one  o'clock  and  in  a  few 
hours  were  on  the  Atlantic  out  of  sight  of  land  —  the  last  view 
of  Europe  being  pale  pink  and  blue  —  a  most  lovely  farewell. 

'  Charles  Caryl  Coleman,  A.N. A.,  painter,  whose  home  was  on  the 
Island  of  Capri.  He  received  a  medal  at  the  World's  Fair,  in  1893. 


CHAPTER  X 
THE  IMPROVEMENT  OF  WASHINGTON  CITY 

1901 

WHEN  President  Washington  was  charged  by  Con- 
gress with  the  duty  of  superintending  the  creation 
of  a  capital  city  on  the  banks  of  the  Potomac,  he 
sent  Major  Andrew  EUicott  to  mark  the  metes  and  bounds 
of  the  Federal  territory*,  and  immediately  afterward  commis- 
sioned Major  Peter  Charles  L'Enfant  to  make  dra\\ings  "of 
the  particular  grounds  most  likely  to  be  approved  for  the  site 
of  the  Federal  town  and  buildings."  During  the  Revolution 
Count  d'Estaing  had  commended  L'Enfant  to  Washington, 
and  the  latter  had  formed  a  good  opinion  of  the  young  French 
engineer's  abihties.  WTien  peace  had  been  conquered,' L'En- 
fant settled  in  New  York  City,  where  he  was  enjoying  a  lucra- 
tive practice  when  Washington  summoned  him.  Such  was  his 
confidence  in  the  President  that  he  immediately  gave  up  his 
private  work,  and  threw  himself  heart  and  soul  into  the  task 
that,  while  it  won  for  his  name  enduring  fame,  brought  to  him 
personally  nothing  but  disgrace,  neglect,  and  poverty  pro- 
longed through  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  century. 

Arriving  in  Georgetown  in  March  of  1791,  L'Enfant  was 
soon  joined  by  Washington,  and  the  two  tramped  over  hills 
and  through  forests  to  discover  the  most  advantageous  sites  for 
the  Congress  house  and  the  President's  palace.  These  two 
points  having  been  located,  L'Enfant  began  his  congenial  task 
of  laying  out  a  city,  reporting  by  mail  twice  a  week  to  Thomas 


130      THE  IMPROVEMENT  OF  WASHINGTON 

Jefferson,  then  Secretary  of  State.  Calling  on  Jefferson  for 
maps,  he  received  large  and  accurate  ones  of  Strasbourg, 
Amsterdam,  Paris,  Milan,  Turin,  Frankfort,  and  other  cities 
visited  by  the  Secretary  during  his  travels  in  Europe.  On  the 
margins  of  these  maps  were  copious  notes  made  by  that  observ- 
ant traveller;  but  Jefferson  proffered  no  advice  beyond  a  few 
general  observations,  such  as  exhortations  to  adhere  to  classical 
models  and  those  modern  examples  of  architecture  which  had 
been  approved  by  persons  of  taste. 

A  lieutenant  in  the  French  provincial  service  when  he  came 
to  America  at  the  age  of  twenty-two,  L'Enfant  ^  must  have 
been  familiar  with  landscape  architecture  as  practiced  by  the 
great  Lenotre,  whose  work,  not  only  in  France,  but  also  in 
England  and  in  Rome,  is  still  unsurpassed.  Washington  was 
not  unacquainted  with  the  stately  art  of  landscape  gardening 
as  exemplified  in  the  capital  of  his  native  State  and  the  great 
plantations  laid  out  according  to  plans  brought  oversea;  and 
Jefferson's  taste  had  been  developed  by  actual  study  of  some 
of  the  world's  greatest  examples  of  civic  art.  Two  plans  were 
drawn  by  L'Enfant,  only  to  be  rejected  by  his  prmcipals;  but 
the  thu-d  was  accepted  and  adopted.  In  this  accepted  plan  un- 
doubtedly Washington  and  Jefferson  each  had  some  part,  and 
for  it  EUicott  made  valuable  suggestions;  but  the  origin  and 
development  of  the  general  scheme  belong  alone  to  L'Enfant.'^ 

The  commissioners  who  had  the  general  oversight  of  all 
matters  pertaining  to  the  District  of  Columbia  had  decided 

»  "The  Reinterment  of  Major  Pierre  Charles  L'Enfant";  Report  made  to 
the  Columbia  Historical  Society,  Washington,  by  James  Dudley  Morgan, 
May  11,  1909. 

«  "The  Origin  of  the  Plan  of  Washington,"  by  Fiske  Kimball.  American 
ArchUeci,  September,  1917. 


THE  LENFANT  PLAN  131 

on  a  system  of  streets  running  from  north  to  south  and  from 
east  to  west.  Upon  this  rectiUnear  arrangement  L'Enfant 
imposed  those  diagonal  avenues,  radiating  from  the  Capitol 
and  the  White  House,  which  give  to  Washington  its  distin- 
guishing feature.  He  also  made  disposition  of  the  public  build- 
ings so  as  to  secure  to  each  its  appropriate  landscape  setting; 
and  he  was  most  particular  to  preserve  the  axial  treatment 
which  is  the  cardinal  principle  of  Lenotre's  work.  In  a  word, 
he  planned  the  capital  city  as  a  work  of  art,  in  which  each 
feature  should  have  a  distinct  relation  to  every  other  feature; 
and  thus  he  gave  to  the  scheme  that  feeling  of  unity  which 
to-day  excites  the  interest  and  admiration  of  the  visitor  in 
Paris. 

In  L'Enfant's  plan  the  one  great  park  of  the  city  was  to  be 
the  space  connecting  the  Congress  garden  with  the  Presi- 
dent's park  south  of  the  White  House.  Here  a  grand  avenue 
four  hundred  feet  broad  and  about  a  mile  in  length,  bordered 
by  gardens  flanked  with  buildings,  was  to  dignify  the  approach 
to  the  halls  of  legislation;  and  where  the  axis  of  the  White 
House  intersected  the  axis  of  the  Capitol  was  to  be  placed  the 
equestrian  statue  of  Washington  voted  by  the  Continental 
Congress  in  1783.  The  twenty-five  springs  within  the  limits 
of  the  city  were  to  furnish  abundant  water-supply  for  foun- 
tains and  cascades,  and  Tiber  Creek  was  to  be  utilized  as  a 
canal  to  accommodate  commerce,  save  where  the  waters  should 
flow  through  the  public  gardens.^  In  this  manner  he  proposed 
to  overcome  the  arid  conditions  which  prevail  during  the  long 
Washington  summers,  or  at  least  to  mitigate  them.  The  canal 

*  History  of  the  United  States  Capitol,  by  Glenn  Brown.  56th  Congress; 
Senate  document  No.  6. 


132      THE  IMPROVEMENT  OF  WASHINGTON 

was  built;  in  its  day  it  served  its  full  commercial  purpose,  and 
even  now  a  small  portion  remaining  uncovered  is  still  in  use. 
The  cascades  were  never  realized;  and  the  most  urgent  need 
of  the  capital  city  to-day  is  fountains  as  numerous  and  as 
copious  as  those  which  give  life  and  beauty  to  Rome. 

L'Enfant  became  so  absorbed  in  his  plan  that  he  conceived 
an  exaggerated  idea  of  his  own  importance.  Fearing  lest  spec- 
ulators would  select  the  choicest  sites,  he  perversely  withheld 
his  map  from  the  commissioners,  who  needed  it  to  satisfy  pur- 
chasers at  the  sale  of  lots  which  was  to  supply  the  funds  for 
the  construction  of  the  public  buildings.  Washington,  who  had 
received  L'Enfant  "not  only  as  a  scientific  man,  but  one  who 
added  considerable  taste  to  professional  knowledge,"  and  who 
regarded  him  as,  by  all  odds,  the  person  best  qualified  for  the 
work  in  hand,  intimated  to  the  commissioners  that  the  feelings 
of  men  of  genius  "are  always  alive,"  and  that  it  is  policy  to 
humor  them,  or  "to  put  on  the  appearance  of  doing  so." 

Unfortunately,  however,  it  was  found  impossible  to  employ 
Major  L'Enfant  "about  the  Federal  city  in  that  degree  of  sub- 
ordination which  was  lawful  and  proper";  and  so  Jefferson 
dismissed  him  after  he  had  been  employed  only  a  single  year. 
The  President  urged  that  his  compensation  be  ample — twenty- 
five  hundred  or  three  thousand  dollars;  but  L'Enfant  placed 
the  value  of  his  services  at  fifty  thousand  dollars,  and  refused 
to  take  a  less  sum,  nor  would  he  accept  an  appointment  as 
Professor  of  Engineering  at  West  Point;  and  until  the  day  of 
his  death,  in  1825,  the  tall,  erect  figure  of  the  courtly  French- 
man trod  the  corridors  of  the  Capitol  as  he  vainly  pleaded  with 
Congress  for  the  reward  he  believed  to  be  his  due.^ 

'  James  Dudley  Morgan  papers,  in  the  Library  of  Congress. 


SLOW  DEVELOPMENT  133 

Washington  and  Jefferson  not  only  adopted  L'Enfant's  plan, 
but  so  long  as  they  were  in  power  they  protected  it  from  per- 
versions, just  as  they  also  guarded  Thornton's  plans  for  the 
Capitol  from  threatened  changes  by  builders  claiming  to  be 
architects;  and  by  the  time  these  two  worthies  had  passed 
from  the  scene  the  main  features  of  the  original  L'Enfant 
scheme  were  fixed  beyond  possibility  of  loss,  although  not 
beyond  neglect  and  encroachment.  Lack  of  money  in  the  Fed- 
eral treasury  at  first  prevented  a  full  realization  of  those  ele- 
ments which  made  for  beauty,  and  in  later  years  there  was 
a  marked  decline  in  public  taste. 

The  Civil  War  found  and  left  Washington  a  straggling  South- 
ern town,  ill-built,  unpaved,  with  cattle  and  swine  roaming  the 
streets  at  will.  During  the  war  the  poor  and  homeless  negroes, 
who  naturally  drifted  to  the  capital,  squatted  upon  its  vacant 
lands  and  built  a  cordon  of  huts  on  the  range  of  hills  that  com- 
mands the  city  on  the  north. 

Then  came  the  Shepherd  regime,  during  which  Washington 
was  improved  with  a  ruthless  hand.  Grades  were  changed, 
streets  cut  down  and  hastily  paved  with  wood;  Congress  was 
outwitted  and  defied;  judges  were  lured  on  excursions  from  the 
city  in  order  to  prevent  them  from  restraining  the  demolition 
of  unsightly  structures;  money  was  poured  out  like  a  Potomac 
flood;  taxes  were  doubled,  and  an  enormous  debt  was  piled 
up;  but,  after  all  has  been  said,  the  fact  remains-that  the  result 
was  amply  worth  the  cost. 

Meantime  two  great  works  had  been  accomplished.  The 
Capitol  extension,  planned  by  Walter,  had  been  finished  during 
the  war  by  the  completion  of  the  superbly  proportioned  dome ; 
and  in  1884  the  half -built  Washington  Monument,  which  had 


134      THE  IMPROVEMENT  OF  WASHINGTON 

been  an  eyesore  for  a  generation,  was  carried  to  its  present 
splendid  height.  Unfortunately,  however,  the  engineers,  de- 
spairing of  building  a  firm  foundation  at  the  intersection  of  the 
two  axes  as  planned  by  L'Enfant,  placed  the  monument  off 
centre  as  regards  both  the  Capitol  and  the  White  House.  More- 
over, the  space  where  was  to  have  been  the  grand  avenue  con- 
necting those  two  monumental  buildings  had  become  a  com- 
mon pasture,  watered  by  a  canal  Uned  with  wood-yards;  and, 
as  if  with  the  purpose  of  destroying  forever  L'Enfant's  con- 
ception, in  1870  the  citizens  invited,  and  Congress  sanctioned, 
the  location  of  a  railroad  across  the  Mall. 

It  is  true  that  the  parks  and  circles  which  L'Enfant  had  re- 
served for  improvement  by  the  States  came  to  be  adorned 
with  statues  of  heroes  of  the  Rebellion,  until  to-day  Washing- 
ton can  boast  of  more  bronze  horsemen  than  any  other  city  on 
the  globe  possesses;  that,  year  by  year,  the  small  parks  have 
been  improved,  the  streets  have  been  well  paved,  and  many 
excellent  residences  have  been  built;  and  that  large  park  areas 
have  been  either  purchased  or  reclaimed  from  malarial  marshes. 
The  one  thing  lacking  in  the  development  of  the  capital  was 
that  unity  for  which  L'Enfant  strove.^ 

On  December  12,  1900,  the  centenary  of  the  removal  of  the 
seat  of  government  from  Philadelphia  to  Washington  was  cele- 
brated at  the  \ATiite  House  by  a  company  invited  by  President 
McKinley  and  made  up  of  Senators,  Members  of  Congress, 
the  Supreme  Court,  ambassadors  and  ministers,  the  Governors 
of  the  States,  officers  of  the  Army  and  Navy,  and  many  private 
persons,  including  members  of  the  American  Institute  of  Ar- 

'  "The  Improvement  of  the  District  of  Columbia,"  Century  Magazine, 
February  and  March,  1902. 


■ 

V 

1/     ^1      *4, 

From  a  'inse  hy  Augustus  Saint-UawJens 


JAIMES  MCMILLAN,  U.S.S. 


ENLARGING  THE  WHITE  HOUSE  135 

chitects  then  in  annual  session  in  Washington.  The  President 
and  Mrs.  McKinley  gave  a  luncheon  at  noon,  and  during  the 
afternoon  the  three  addresses  made  at  the  White  House  in 
the  morning  were  supplemented  by  five  others  delivered  at  a 
joint  session  of  the  Senate  and  House  in  the  hall  of  the  House 
of  Representatives.  There  was  a  mihtary  procession  and  the 
city  was  decorated.  In  the  evening  a  public  reception  was  held 
at  the  Corcoran  Art  Gallery. 

Among  the  speakers  at  the  \Miite  House  was  Colonel  Theo- 
dore A.  Bingham,  the  Officer  in  Charge  of  Public  Buildings  and 
Grounds,  who  presented  a  plan  for  enlarging  the  President's 
House.^  From  a  fund  of  $15,000  appropriated  by  Congress, 
Colonel  Bingham  paid  for  the  WTiite  House  plans  and  also  for 
a  plan  of  the  Mall  from  the  Capitol  westward  to  the  Potomac, 
together  with  a  parkway  connection  with  Rock  Creek  Park. 
Senator  McMillan,  at  whose  instance  the  item  had  been  placed 
in  the  appropriation  bill,  expected  that  the  entire  sum  would 
be  used  for  a  much-needed  careful  study  of  the  park  system 
of  the  District;  and  naturally  he  was  chagrined  when  the  bill 
came  from  the  conference  committee  with  the  item  so  changed 
as  to  prevent  the  realization  of  his  hopes.  The  American  In- 
stitute of  Architects  strenuously  opposed  both  the  WTiite 
House  and  the  Mall  plans,  for  reasons  obvious  to  any  person 
trained  in  architecture;  and  the  schemes  found  no  popular 
favor. 

The  subject  of  the  improvement  of  Washington  was  already 
in  the  air  when  the  centennial  was  celebrated.  At  the  meeting 


*  Celebration  of  the  One  Hundredth  Anniversary  of  the  Establishment  of  the 
Seat  of  Government  in  the  District  of  Columbia,  p.  Gl.  Compiled  by  William 
V.  Cox.   Washington,  1901. 


136       THE  IMPROVEMENT  OF  WASHINGTON 

of  the  American  Institute  of  Architects  held  coincident  with  the 
celebration,  a  number  of  papers  on  that  subject  were  presented, 
according  to  a  programme  arranged  by  the  secretary,  Glenn 
Bro\Mi,  of  Washington,  a  profound  and  indefatigable  student 
of  Capital  history  and  lore;  a  man  of  historic  sense  and  feeling 
and  of  sound  taste;  and  withal  a  person  who  combined  modesty 
with  persistency.' 

Now  it  so  happened  that  among  those  who  shuddered  at  the 
proposed  mutilation  of  the  White  House  was  William  E.  Curtis, 
one  of  whose  letters  each  morning  occupied  the  first  column 
on  the  first  page  of  the  "Chicago  Record,"  no  matter  in  what 
part  of  the  world  the  writer  might  be.  Mr.  Curtis  had  been 
associated  with  Frank  Millet  in  the  pubUcity  work  of  the 
Chicago  Fair,  and  naturally  he  was  a  believer  in  Mr.  Burn- 
ham.  He  proposed  to  Colonel  Bingham  that  the  \Miite  House 
plans  be  submitted  to  Mr.  Bumham  for  suggestions.  The  im- 
pulsive Colonel  first  said  yes  and  then  said  no;  and  so  rode 
fast  to  a  fall  from  which  an  architect  would  have  saved 
him.  Mr.  Curtis  had  telegraphed  for  Mr.  Bumham  and  then 
had  been  forced  to  stop  him  on  the  way,  much  to  his  own 
chagrin. 

On  March  8,  1901,  the  Senate  adopted  a  resolution  intro- 

'  Glenn  Brown,  more  than  any  other  one  person,  stimulated  the  archi- 
tects of  the  country  to  take  an  interest  in  reviving  the  L'Enfant  plan  of 
Washington.  Later  his  indefatigable  pursuit  of  those  who  would  mutilate 
that  plan  has  caused  him  Congressional  disfavor,  indeed,  but  the  apprecia- 
tion of  those  sincerely  interested  in  the  right  development  of  Washington. 

The  papers  were  by  Robert  S.  Peabody,  president,  A. I. A.;  Joseph  C. 
Hornblower,  Frederick  Law  Olmsted,  Jr.,  C.  Howard  Walker,  Edgar  V. 
Seeler,  Glenn  Brown,  H.  K.  Bush  Brown,  Cass  Gilbert,  George  O.  Totten, 
Jr.,  and  Paul  J.  Pelz.  See  Papers  Relative  to  the  Improvement  of  the  City  of 
Washington.  Compiled  by  Glenn  Brown,  with  an  introduction  by  Charles 
Moore.   56th  Congress,  2d  Session,  document  94. 


SELECTING  THE  EXPERTS  137 

duced  by  Mr.  McMillan,  authorizing  the  Committee  on  the 
District  of  Columbia  to  consider  the  subject  and  report  plans 
for  the  development  and  improvement  of  the  entire  park  sys- 
tem of  the  District,  with  authority  "to  secure  the  services  of 
such  experts  as  may  be  necessary  for  a  proper  consideration  of 
the  subject,"  the  expenses  to  be  paid  from  the  contingent  fund 
of  the  Senate.'  The  day  after  the  resolution  passed.  Senator 
McMillan  asked  his  secretary  whom  he  wanted  as  an  expert 
and  the  reply  was,  Mr.  Burnham,  of  Chicago.  To  the  sugges- 
tion the  Senator  agreed,  saying  laughingly  that  several  years 
previously  he  had  been  involved  in  a  misunderstanding  over  a 
hotel  building  in  Detroit  for  which  Mr.  Burnham  had  prepared 
plans  at  the  behest  of  Mayor  Pingree.  The  latter  had  assumed 
that  Mr.  McMillan  would  furnish  the  money,  and  when  he  de- 
murred at  going  into  the  project,  Mr.  Burnham  rolled  up  his 
plans  and  departed.  However,  he  supposed  JVIr.  Burnham  had 
forgotten  the  circumstance. 

For  himself,  Senator  McMillan  said,  he  desired  Frederick 
Law  Ohnsted,  Jr.  He  did  not  know  Mr.  Olmsted,  but  pre- 
simied  that  the  young  man  was  as  able  as  his  father,  whom  he 
had  secured  to  design  Belle  Isle  Park  in  Detroit.  These  two 
were  to  select  a  third.  The  choice  of  Mr.  Burnham  and  Mr. 
Olmsted  was  made  in  accordance  with  the  rule  the  Senator  had 
laid  down  as  the  result  of  his  business  experience :  Whenever 

*  The  fact  that  this  resolution  was  passed  at  an  executive  session  of  the 
Senate  and  did  not  have  the  concurrence  of  the  House  was  the  occasion  of 
attacks  on  the  plans  by  Representative  Cannon  and  others.  Had  the  ex- 
penses incurred  been  limited  to  $15,000  as  anticipated,  the  contingent  fund 
would  not  have  been  depleted  as  it  was,  several  times  over.  Had  Senator 
McMillan  lived,  his  influence  would  have  been  able  to  prevent  the  attacks 
from  becoming  serious.  There  is  no  limit  to  the  possible  conjectures.  The 
fact  remains  that  the  plans  have  survived  and  are  being  carried  out. 


138      THE  IMPROVEMENT  OF  WASHINGTON 

the  task  is  important,  get  the  most  capable  advice  possible  — 
and  then  follow  it. 

At  the  request  of  Mr.  Moore,  who  was  acquainted  with  the 
White  House  episode,  Mr.  Curtis  asked  IVIr.  Burnham  to  come 
to  Washington.  Meantime,  the  legislative  committee  of  the 
Institute  was  informed  of  the  selections  and,  on  March  19,  a 
hearing  took  place  between  the  representatives  of  the  Insti- 
tute ^  and  Senators  McMillan  and  Gallinger.^  Mr.  McMillan 
outlined  the  undertaking  and  asked  for  recommendations. 
Mr.  Boring,  chairman  of  the  Institute  Committee,  thereupon 
recommended  Mr.  Ohnsted  for  landscape  work  and  Mr.  Burn- 
ham  as  one  of  two  architects.  Whereupon  Mr.  McMillan,  with 
a  twinkle  in  his  blue  eyes,  said:  "I  think  that  is  a  very  prac- 
tical suggestion,  and  I  may  say  that  you  could  not  suit  me 
better  personally. . . .  Those  gentlemen  can  study  the  question 
between  now  and  next  December  and  submit  privately  to  this 
committee  a  plan  which  will  cover  the  matter  of  parking  for 
the  city,  and  incidentally  suggest  where  the  public  buildings 
should  be  placed.  .  .  .  The  men  you  speak  of  would  be  the 
men  I  myself  would  have  selected,  if  I  were  asked  to  select 
them.  Mr.  Burnham  and  Mr.  Ohnsted  are  just  the  men  I 
would  have  selected,  from  my  experience  and  knowledge  of  the 
matter." 

•  Representing  the  American  Institute  of  Architects  were  Robert  S. 
Peabody,  president;  Glenn  Brown,  secretary;  William  A.  Boring,  chairman 
of  the  committee  on  legislation;  George  B.  Post,  of  New  York,  G.  F.  Shep- 
ley,  of  Boston,  E.  B.  Green,  of  Buffalo,  Frank  Miles  Day,  of  Philadelphia,  of 
the  committee;  and  Frederick  Law  Olmsted,  Jr.,  of  Boston,  J.  C.  Horn- 
blower  and  James  G.  Hill,  of  Washington.  See  Park  Improvement  Papers, 
No.  5.  Washington,  1903. 

2  The  sub-committee  that  handled  the  investigation  was  made  up  of 
Senators  McMillan,  of  Michigan,  Gallinger,  of  New  Hampshire,  and  Mar- 
tin, of  Virginia,  with  Charles  Moore  as  clerk. 


FREDERICK  LA^^   OLMSTED,  JR. 


BURNHAM,  OLMSTED  AND  McKIM  139 

On  March  21  Mr.  Burnham  arrived  in  Washington  about 
6  P.M.,  as  his  Diary  states.  "Was  met  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Wilham 
E.  Curtis;  dined  with  them  and  spent  the  evening.  Met  there 
Mr.  Charles  Moore,  private  secretary  of  Mr.  McMillan,  chair- 
man of  the  Senate  Committee  on  the  District  of  Columbia. 
Came  to  Washington  on  the  business  of  which  McMillan  has 
charge  —  beautifying  the  city."  That  night  he  was  offered  and 
he  promptly  accepted  the  chairmanship  of  a  commission  to 
consist  of  himself,  Mr.  Olmsted,  and  a  third  member  to  be  se- 
lected by  them.  "Who  has  been  considered  for  the  other  ar- 
chitect?" Mr.  Burnham  asked.  "That  is  for  you  and  Mr. 
Ohnsted  to  decide,"  was  the  answer;  "but  if  your  choice  should 
fall  on  Mr.  McKim  it  would  be  very  gratifying."  "Charles 
McKim,"  replied  Mr.  Burnham,  "is  the  man  I  had  in  mind. 
He  was  the  one  I  most  relied  upon  in  the  Chicago  Fair  work.  I 
will  talk  with  Olmsted  and  will  see  McKim  in  New  York  and 
report." 

The  next  day  Mr.  Burnham  spent  in  Washington  with  Sen- 
ator McMillan  and  Mr.  Ohnsted,  leaving  in  the  afternoon  for 
AnnapoHs.^  Recurring  to  the  Diary: 

March  23.  Took  the  train  about  6.50  a.m.  for  Baltimore; 
went  to  the  Continental  Trust  Building;  called  on  the  president 
of  the  B.  and  0.,  but  did  not  find  him.  Spent  the  rest  of  the 
forenoon  with  Mr.  Wariield  and  men  at  the  building;  took  noon 
train  for  New  York.  Went  to  the  Holland  House.  Dmed  at 
Century  Club  and  spent  the  evening  at  Charles  McKim's  with 
John  La  Farge;  bed  at  1.30  a.m. 

The  result  of  the  interview  IVlr.  Burnham  reported  in  the 
following  letters: 

'  Where  Hubert  Burnham  was  preparing  to  enter  the  Naval  Academy. 


140       THE  IMPROVEMENT  OF  WASHINGTON 

D.  H.  B.  to  Charles  Moore 

(No  date) 
Dear  Mr.  Moore:  Mr.  McKim  agrees  to  act  in  case  the 
work  be  not  done  in  Boston.  As  IVIr.  Olmsted  has  agreed  with 
me  that  it  shall  be  done  in  Washington,  that  point  is  covered. 
Please  send  copies  of  everything  you  think  we  can  use,  to 
each  of  us.  I  especially  desire  a  copy  of  the  Parsons  sugges- 
tions^ and  of  the  studies  made  long  ago  by  Bulfmch.^ 

D.  H.  B.  to  C.  F.  McKim 

March  27,  1901 
My  dear  Mr.  McKim:  I  have  your  formal  note  dated  at 
Philadelphia,  and  am  dehghted.  The  prospect  of  working  with 
you  adds  very  much  to  the  pleasure  of  living,  as  you  know. 
Your  influence  on  my  hfe  has  had  for  me  an  indescribable 
effect ;  one  for  which  I  have  always  felt  thankful. 

'  Plans  for  the  treatment  of  that  section  of  the  District  of  Columbia  situ- 
ated south  of  Pennsylvania  Avenue  and  north  of  B  Street,  S.W.,  and  for  a 
suitable  connection  between  the  Potomac  and  the  Zoological  Parks.  By 
Samuel  Parsons,  Jr.,  landscape  architect,  New  York.  See  Report  of  the 
Centennial  Celebration,  p.  324. 

»  Charles  Bulflnch,  Architect  of  the  Capitol  from  1818  to  1829. 


CHAPTER  XI 
THE  UNITED  STATES  SENATE  PARK  COMMISSION 

1901 

MR.  BURNHAAl  was  now  embarked  on  a  work, 
national  in  scope,  which  was  destined  to  occupy 
time  and  thought  and  energy  during  the  remain- 
der of  his  Hfe.  The  money  sacrifice  was  comparatively  unim- 
portant to  him ;  for  his  practice  and  his  investments  made 
him  independent.  But  the  demands  on  vitahty  caused  by 
travel,  the  intrusion  upon  home  life,  and  the  struggles  to 
overcome  opposition,  whether  ignorant  or  prejudiced,  were 
the  heavy  price  paid  for  serving  the  country  and  the  various 
cities  that  called  upon  him.  For  none  of  these  services  would 
he  accept  compensation;  for  one  reason  because  he  would 
never  put  forward  any  but  the  ideal  solution  of  a  civic 
problem,  and  if  he  gave  his  services  he  felt  that  he  had  the 
right  to  present  his  subject  exactly  as  to  him  appeared  best. 
If  compromises  were  expedient  at  the  time  of  execution,  at 
least  the  record  should  show  what  ought  to  be  done. 

Of  course  it  was  neither  possible  nor  necessary  that  he  give 
up  his  private  business;  but  henceforth  he  must  speed  the 
machine.  So  we  find  him  driving  ahead. 

March  24.  Took7.40  train  for  Philadelphia.  Called  on  Penn- 
sj'lvania  people  and  lunched  with  President  Cassatt.  Then 
called  on  Nicholson,  and  then  took  the  4.30  train  for  Chicago. 
Found  a  telegram  at  Altoona  asking  me  to  stop  off  at  Pitts- 
burgh. 

March  26.    Stopped  at  Pittsburgh  at  1.30  a.m.,  went  to 


142  THE  SENATE  PARK  COMMISSION 

Duquesne  Club.  Up  at  8;  went  during  the  day  to  see  Frick  and 
George  Oliver  and  the  Pennsylvania  depot;  also  saw  the  Com- 
mittee of  the  Exposition  Company,  Handy,  Winter,  Fitzpat- 
rick,  and  Ripley.  Dined  at  the  club  with  Oliver  and  took 
7,30  train  for  home. 

March  31.  (Sunday.)  At  home  all  day.  Went  with  Curtis 
Remy  to  Charles  Deering's  to  see  his  new  picture  by  Zorn. 

April  4.  Arrived  m  N.Y.  at  6.30  p.m.;  went  to  the  Plaza 
Hotel  and  there  found  Mrs.  Burnham  and  Margaret  and  the 
Burnets.  Went  with  Charles  McKim  and  Stanford  White  to 
a  ballet;  bed  at  12  p.m. 

April  5.  Arrived  in  Washington  at  2  p.m.  and  drove  to  the 
location  of  the  ObeUsk  [Washington  Monument],  and  then 
up  to  the  Senate  Committee  room,  but  was  too  late  to  get 
in.  Drove  on  East  Capitol  Street  and  back  to  the  Arhngton. 
McKim  and  Olmsted  came  in.  Spent  the  evening  at  the  Cosmos 
Club.  Commission  of  which  Burnham  is  part  drove  to  the 
Obelisk-Capitol  axis;  visited  the  Capitol  and  met  Moore;  then 
took  car  (private  trolley)  for  Anacostia  and  Cabin  John  Bridge. 
Evening  at  Cosmos  Club. 

It  is  not  the  habit  of  artists  to  approach  their  tasks  too  ab- 
ruptly. The  luncheon  hour  at  Cabin  John  Bridge  was  spent  al- 
most entirely  in  a  discussion  of  the  Harvard  Stadium,  which 
Mr.  McKim  had  designed,  while  Mr.  Olmsted  was  interested 
in  the  landscape  setting.  Mr.  Burnham  insisted  that  the  open- 
ing should  be  towards  Charles  River,  since  the  Greeks  always 
built  their  stadia  with  the  opening  towards  the  water.  On  the 
way  back  Mr.  Burnham  abruptly  said:  "I  have  talked  the 
matter  over  with  Senator  McMillan.  The  four  of  us  are  going 
to  Europe  in  June  to  see  and  to  discuss  together  parks  in  their 
relations  to  public  buildings  —  that  is  our  problem  here  in 
Washington  and  we  must  have  weeks  when  we  are  thinking  of 
nothing  else." 


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EUROPEAN  PRECEDENTS  143 

April  6.  Visited  Arlington.  McKim  and  B.  dined  with  Wil- 
liam E.  Curtis. 

April  7.  Burnham  and  friends  spent  all  the  morning  on  the 
Potomac.  Lunched  at  the  Congressional  Library  (at  Librarian 
Putnam's  Round  Table)  and  spent  the  afternoon  with  Secretary 
of  War  Root,  General  Dodge,  Senator  Wetmore  and  Colonel 
Bingham  (the  Commission  on  the  Grant  Memorial).  Visited 
Senator  McMillan  at  his  house. 

Apropos  of  the  trip  to  Europe,  Mr.  Burnham  wrote : 
D.  H.  B.  to  C.  F.  McKim 

April  10,  1901 

My  dear  Mr.  McKim  : . . .  You  may  remember  that  I  spoke 
to  you  about  going  abroad  this  summer.  I  don't  know  how  it 
will  be  possible  for  us  to  properly  do  this  enormously  important 
work  which  has  been  entrusted  to  our  hands  unless  we  make 
an  effort  to  refresh  our  minds  for  the  sake  of  it,  and  how  else 
can  we  refresh  our  minds  except  by  seeing,  with  the  Washing- 
ton work  in  view,  all  those  large  things  done  by  others  in  the 
same  line?  A  foreign  trip  would  be  less  necessary  to  you  than  to 
me,  but  even  in  your  case  it  cannot  fail  to  afford  you  inspiration; 
and  surely  the  Government,  and  especially  our  great  Uncle 
George,  has  the  right  to  expect  of  us  the  very  best  we  can  give. 
While  making  such  a  trip  we  probably  can  settle  many  of  the 
important  things,  and  I  have  no  doubt  that  our  time  will  be 
actually  saved  by  thus  journeying  together  for  six  weeks. 

I  should  like  to  leave  here  soon  after  the  first  of  June,  and  I 
suggest  that  you  obtain  transportation  for  all  four,  advising 
the  others  in  regard  to  your  action. 

I  am  not  a  very  good  sailor,  at  least  in  the  beginning  of  a 
journey  when  the  weather  is  bad  and  before  I  get  my  sea  legs 
on.  I,  therefore,  would  like  to  have  the  best  possible  quarters 
obtainable,  for  which  I  would  be  willing  to  pay  extra,  or  what- 
ever it  may  cost.  If  you  and  I  could  have  a  stateroom  to- 
gether, it  would  please  me,  not  alone  for  the  comfort  of  it  but 
because  it  would  insure  me  your  society,  which  is  a  thing  I 
look  forward  to  constantly. 


144  THE  SENATE  PARK  COMMISSION 

April  18.  Arrived  in  New  York  from  Pittsburgh,  with  Love- 
joy  and  Schwab;  went  to  Fuller  office,  met  Black  and  others 
and  saw  Frick  there.  Arrived  at  Philadelphia  at  11  p.m.  and 
met  Nicholson  at  his  office  in  Land  and  Title  Bank,  and  stayed 
until  11.45  P.M.,  taking  his  order  for  a  new  22  story  building  on 
the  site  of  the  La  Fayette  Hotel.  Took  train  for  Washington 
at  midnight. 

April  19.  Breakfasted  at  the  Arlington  with  McKim  and 
young  Olmsted.  Went  to  the  Senate  Committee  rooms  ^  and 
spent  day  and  dmed  with  Senator  McMillan  and  sixteen  others 
at  his  house. ^  Left  Washington  at  midnight  on  the  Lighthouse 
steamer  Holly,  Captain  Ross,  U.S.N.,  with  McKim,  Olmsted 
and  W.  E.  Curtis. 

The  trip  was  arranged  with  Lyman  J.  Gage,  Secretary  of 
the  Treasury,  by  Mr.  Curtis.  The  purpose  was  to  visit  some 
of  those  estates  in  Virginia  and  Maryland  which  furnished  the 
precedents  familiar  to  Washington  and  JefTerson,  and  thereby 
continued  in  this  country  the  architectural  traditions  estab- 
lished by  Inigo  Jones  and  Sir  Christopher  Wren  in  England. 

The  first  stop  was  made  at  Stratford  Hall,  a  firmly  set  brick 
structure  on  the  bank  of  the  Potomac  in  Westmoreland 
County.  The  Stratford  Hall  estate  of  four  thousand  acres  had 
been  patented  by  Sir  William  Berkeley  in  1663  to  Richard  Lee, 
and  at  his  death  it  descended  to  his  son  Richard,  a  graduate  of 
Oxford  and,  like  his  father  before  him,  a  man  of  first  account 
in  the  Colony.  His  son  Thomas  was  living  in  the  origmal  house 
when  it  was  burned  in  1729,  on  which  sad  occasion  "his  lady 

'  The  Senate  Press  Gallery  was  secured  as  a  draughting-room,  and  J.  G. 
Langdon  from  the  Olmsted  Brothers  offices  was  placed  in  charge. 

^  The  guests  included  Secretary  Gage,  Secretary  Root,  Henry  White, 
Secretary  of  Embassy  in  London,  several  Senators  and  men  prominent  in 
Washington  afl'airs,  the  idea  being  properly  to  introduce  the  Park  Commis- 
sion and  to  give  them  social  credit.  The  talk  was  entirely  informal. 


JAMES  RIVER  ESTATES  145 

and  child  were  forced  to  be  thrown  out  of  a  window,  and  he 
hardly  escaped  the  flames."  So  highly  was  he  considered  at 
court  that  Queen  Caroline  sent  him  a  bountiful  present  from 
the  privy  purse,  and  with  the  money  he  built  the  present 
manor-house,  probably  about  1730.  Lighthorse  Harry  Lee 
of  Revolutionary  fame,  Francis  Lightfoot  Lee,  and  General 
Robert  E.  Lee  were  born  in  this  house,  which  at  the  time  of 
]VIr.  Burnham's  visit  was  owned  by  Dr.  Richard  Stewart. 

The  next  day  the  party  put  in  at  Yorktown  and  drove  over 
to  Carter's  Grove  and  thence  to  Williamsburg,  founded  as  the 
second  capital  of  the  Colony,  because  Jamestown  was  too  ac- 
cessible to  an  enemy  coming  by  water.  "The  night  was  spent 
at  a  hotel  kept  by  S ,"  is  Mr.  Burnham's  laconic  com- 
ment, written  down  probably  with  the  intention  of  keeping 
alive  a  name  associated  with  as  many  kinds  of  discomfort  as 
can  be  packed  into  twelve  hours.  However,  Williamsburg  had 
its  lesson;  for  here  in  outline  is  the  plan  of  the  Mall  in  Washing- 
ton, with  the  Capitol  at  one  end  of  the  broad  parkway,  the  Col- 
lege of  William  and  Mary  at  the  other  end  of  the  main  axis,  and 
the  Governor's  Palace  at  the  head  of  the  cross-axis,  a  location 
similar  to  that  of  the  WTiite  House. 

Call  was  made  at  Upper  and  Lower  Brandon,  an  estate  which 
was  patented  by  James  Martin  in  1616  and  which  has  been  in 
the  Harrison  family  since  1698.  The  panelled  hall,  with  its 
three  arches  rising  from  Ionic  columns,  and  the  finely  propor- 
tioned drawing-room  were  filled  with  Chippendale  furniture 
that  came  straight  from,  the  makers  to  this  mansion.  The  next 
stop  was  at  "Westover,"  perhaps  the  stateliest  estate  in  all 
America,  once  the  home  of  that  fine  old  aristocrat  Colonel 
Byrd,  and  of  his  daughter,  the  beautiful  Evelyn,  who  mourned 


146  THE  SENATE  PARK  COMMISSION 

her  life  away  in  grieving  for  the  English  lover  she  had  met  at 
the  Court  of  St.  James,  but  whom  her  stern  parent  refused  to 
allow  her  to  marry. 

Last  came  Shirley,  the  seat  of  the  Carters,  where  Mrs.  Brans- 
ford  dispensed  a  hospitality  so  warm,  so  witty,  and  so  alto- 
gether charming  that  the  members  of  the  party  never  ceased 
talking  about  it.  There  they  found  a  negro  fishing,  and  on  be- 
ing asked  what  is  the  best  fish,  he  replied:  "Sho,  massa,  de  bes' 
fish  am  de  black  bass  —  always  'scusin'  de  white  shad"  — 
a  story  dear  to  Mr.  Burnham's  tongue. 

May  4.  H.  S.  Black  and  James  Forgan  met  in  this  office  at 
4  P.M.  and  practically  agreed  on  the  First  National  Bank  big 
scheme. 

May  6.  (Sunday.)  At  home  all  day  working  in  Den  on  the 
Washington  scheme;  took  little  walks  down  to  the  lake  and 
over  to  the  Burnets,  and  went  to  bed  at  8  p.m. 

May  14.  Arrived  in  Baltimore  (from  Uniontown)  at  7.30; 
took  train  for  Annapolis,  arriving  about  9;  found  Hubert, 
Captain  Ross,  U.S.N. ,  and  Messrs.  McKim,  Curtis,  and  Olm- 
sted; all  lunched  with  Captain  Wainwright,  Commandant  of 
the  Naval  Academy,  and  dined  on  the  Holly. 

May  15.  Sailed  for  the  Eastern  Shore  of  Maryland;  called 
at  Wye,  the  home  of  the  Lloyds,  and  at  Whitehall,  the  home 
of  the  Chases. 

May  16.  Took  noon  train  for  Washington.  Spent  after- 
noon and  evening  at  Capitol. 

May  17.  Commission  at  work  all  day  and  late  at  night.  Ely  ^ 
came  over  and  helped  us  out. 

May  18.  Worked  all  day  at  Capitol  and  on  shore  of  the 
Potomac. 

May  19.  Worked  up  to  2.30  p.m.  at  Capitol;  left  for  Phila- 
delphia at  4. 

'  Theodore  N.  Ely,  Chief  of  Motive  Power  of  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad, 
vice-president  of  the  Academy  in  Rome,  a  close  friend  of  both  Burnham 
and  McKim. 


J  ^Wtv^A^    ^CT"  <vA^  cTM-^t^^ —    wT"^ 


C?iVAiX>«-t__— J 


Av.^  H/'^°  f' 


A  LETTER  FROM  SAINT-GAUDENS 


SAINT-GAUDENS  INVITED  147 

May  20.  Saw  Mr.  Cassatt,  president  of  the  Pennsylvania 
Railroad,  and  from  him  received  the  commission  to  design  the 
depot  in  Washington.  ^  Took  Imiited  train  for  home  at  12.30 
and  joined  Lyman  J.  Gage  and  friends  at  Harrisburg;  he  was 
going  to  Chicago  with  the  remains  of  his  wife. 

May  23.  D.  H.  B.  and  wife  left  for  Baltimore  to  see  Hubert, 
who  has  to  have  slight  operation  at  Johns  Hopkins  Hospital. 

June  1.  With  Peirce  Anderson  saw  Senator  McMillan  m  his 
private  car  at  Michigan  Central  Station  in  Chicago  at  9  a.m.^ 

On  June  5  Mr.  Burnham  wrote : 

D.  H.  B.  to  Charles  Moore 

Dear  Mr.  Moore:  It  has  been  apparent  from  the  beginning 
that  we  should  add  a  sculptor  to  our  commission,  and  yet  I 
have  hesitated  to  do  so,  because  there  was  only  one  namethe 
owner  of  which  seemed  to  me  to  be  equal  to  the  occasion.  Ill 
health  seemed  to  make  it  impossible  for  him  to  join  us.  To- 
day, however,  Mr.  McKim  writes  that  Saint-Gaudens  is  Milling 
to  enlist  in  this  work,  and  therefore  I  have  written  to  Senator 
McMillan  saying  that  we  want  him. 

Hoping  this  may  meet  with  the  approbation  of  Senator 
McMillan,  I  remain,  etc. 

The  foregoing  letter  was  based  on  this  communication: 

C.  F.  McKim  to  D.  H.  B. 

June  1, 1901 
My  dear  BupiNHAM :  Saint-Gaudens  has  been  stopping  with 
me  since  his  return  from  Washington,  and  I  have  therefore  seen 

*  Mr.  Burnham  had  been  retained  by  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad  to  de- 
sign the  Washington  Station  before  he  was  selected  for  the  Park  Commis- 
sion.   The  actual  commission  was  given  at  the  time  mentioned  above. 

^  The  interview  was  to  arrange  for  models  showing  present  conditions 
and  proposed  plans,  to  be  prepared  by  G.  C.  Curtis,  of  Boston.  The  mem- 
bers of  the  Commission  financed  the  models  at  the  beginning  and  later  were 
repaid  by  the  Government.  This  was  the  most  expensive  portion  of  the 
plans.   The  models  are  now  in  the  National  Museum. 


148  THE  SENATE  PARK  COMMISSION 

more  of  him  than  for  a  long  time  past.  We  have  "reminisced," 
as  much  as  you  might  expect  from  two  old  fellows,  of  question- 
able health,  past  fifty,  and  have  gone  over  the  last  twenty-five 
years,  since  I  first  met  him,  an  obscure,  would-be  sculptor,  with 
his  first  commission.  Enough  of  histories,  as  you  can  imagine 
—  bright  and  tragic,  diverting  and  enthralling  —  to  pass  the 
time.  Such  a  lot  of  gossip  as  you  never  heard !  But  besides  this 
companionship,  his  visits  to  the  office,  and  keen  interest  in  the 
Washington  work,  have  been  invaluable,  and  this  leads  me, 
knowing  well  your  sentiments  towards  him,  to  make  the  propo- 
sition that  we  join  him  with  us,  in  the  work  of  the  Commission, 
in  order  that  he  may  assist  us,  not  only  for  the  value  of  his 
counsel  in  many  directions,  but  because  the  question  of 
"Sites,"  demanded  in  our  report,  is  one  which  refers  as  much  to 
sculptors  as  to  architecture,  and  should  be  determined  by  the 
highest  authority  in  the  land.  I  would  suggest  that  he  be  made 
a  full  member  of  the  Commission,  and  believe,  as  I  am  sure  that 
you  will,  that  the  addition  would  materially  strengthen,  and 
add  weight,  in  the  final  judgment  of  Congress,  as  well  as  that 
of  the  public,  to  the  forthcoming  report  of  the  Commission. 
Saint-Gaudens  has  already  so  deeply  manifested  his  interest  in 
the  outcome  of  this  enterprise,  that  I  feel  certain,  if  invited  to 
collaborate  with  us,  that  he  would,  without  hesitation,  accept. 
I  speak  thus  confidently,  having  sounded  him  on  the  subject. 
If  you  agree,  why  not  write  Senator  McMillan  at  once,  sug- 
gesting that  Augustus  Saint-Gaudens  be  invited  to  become 
a  full  member  of  the  Commission? 

I  will  write  you  further,  on  Monday,  in  regard  to  other 
matters. 

June  8.  D.  H.  B.  and  E.  R.  Graham  arrived  in  Philadelphia 
at  4  P.M.  and  went  to  the  Bellevue  Hotel.  James  Knox  Taylor 
called;  also  Rick  Ohnsted  and  Charles  Moore  and  wife.^ 

'  This  was  the  occasion  of  one  of  those  suppers  which  Mr.  Burnham  de- 
lighted to  give.  He  was  at  his  best  when  seated  at  the  head  of  a  table  dis- 
pensing an  abundant  hospitality,  telling  and  listening  to  stories  and  discuss- 
ing the  public  work  in  hand.  He  never  adverted  to  his  private  business :  this 
was  one  of  many  reticences.   He  had  a  hundred  or  more  sketches  for  the 


AT  SEA  149 

June  9.  D.  H.  B.  and  Graham  called  on  President  Cassatt 
and  Mr.  Pugh;  also  on  Mr.  Brown  (the  Chief  Engineer)  and 
Mr.  Ely.  Took  train  for  Washington  with  Charles  McKim: 
they  spent  part  of  the  evening  with  Secretary  Lyman  J.  Gage. 

June  10.  Burnham  and  McKim  spent  day  at  the  Treasury 
Department  and  Senate  Press  Gallery.  At  4  p.m.  Secretary  Gage 
went  up  in  the  Washington  Monument  with  party,  including 
Olmsted  and  Moore;  and  then  all  went  to  drive  and  to  locate 
the  building  for  the  Bureau  of  Standards.^ 

June  13.  Albert  Wells  and  D.  H.  B.  spent  the  morning  and 
went  to  the  Deutschland  together;  found  flowers,  telegrams, 
and  messages;  sailed  at  1  p.m.  exactly.  Spent  entire  afternoon 
and  evening  with  McKim  and  our  confreres,  Charles  Moore^ 
and  Frederick  Law  Obnsted,  Jr.,  U.S.  Commission  for  the  im- 
provement of  the  parks  of  Washington. 

June  17.  Played  shuflle-board  with  McKim.  Sea  not  very 
rough.  Bed  at  10  p.m. 

June  19.  Arrived  at  Pl>Tnouth  at  9  a.m.  The  mileage  longer 
than  usual.  Average  speed  on  the  voyage  23.38  miles,  being  a 
record-breaker.  Arrived  at  Cherbourg  at  2  p.m.  Took  train  for 
Paris  and  arrived  at  2  a.m.  Spent  an  hour  getting  baggage  in- 
spected and  at  3.30  we  found  ourselves  in  our  rooms  on  the 
fifth  floor  of  Hotel  Continental,  overlooking  the  Garden  of  the 

Washington  Station  as  a  part  of  the  new  plan.  The  idea  of  placing  the  sta- 
tion on  the  south  side  of  the  Mall  had  been  suggested  to  President  Cassatt, 
who  strongly  intimated  to  Mr.  Burnham  that  he  had  been  employed  to 
design  the  station,  not  to  locate  it.  The  design  was  for  the  old  site  at  Sixth 
and  B  Streets;  and  the  Commission  was  trj'ing  to  find  a  way  of  changing 
the  location  in  order  to  get  the  tracks  out  of  the  Mall,  where  they  were 
located  about  1872,  and  where  they  were  continued  in  legislation  then  just 
enacted  for  the  elimination  of  grade  crossings,  the  railroads  at  that  time 
having  refused  to  consider  a  change. 

'  Professor  S.  W.  Stratton,  the  director  of  the  newly  created  Bureau  of 
Standards,  conceived  the  idea  of  going  into  the  suburbs,  and  a  tract  of  six- 
teen acres  was  purchased  on  the  Pierce  Mill  road,  west  of  Connecticut 
Avenue,  where  a  great  institution  has  developed. 

2  Charles  Moore  was  not  a  member  of  the  Commission  —  which  con- 
sisted of  the  four  experts.  He  was  present  at  all  meetings;  was  consulted  on 
the  application  of  the  ideas  of  the  members  to  conditions  in  the  District  of 
Columbia,  and,  with  Mr.  Olmsted,  prepared  the  report  to  Congress. 


150  THE  SENATE  PARK  COMMISSION 

Tuileries.  From  D.  H.  B.'s  balcony  all  four  men  saw  the  dawn 
come  over  Paris,  a  sight  never  to  be  effaced  from  memorj'.  We 
then  took  coffee  and  rolls  and  went  to  bed. 

June  20.  Visited  the  Beaux  Arts  and  drove  about  Paris. 

June  21.  Spent  the  morning  in  the  Tuileries  Gardens,  the 
afternoon  in  the  Bois  de  Boulogne,  returning  from  Suresnes 
by  boat.  Took  the  10.25  train  for  Rome. 

June  22.  On  cars  for  Rome,  passing  over  the  Alps  by  day- 
light and  through  the  Mont  Cenis  Tunnel.  Dinner  in  the  cafe 
of  station  at  Genoa ;  then  a  wonderful  ride  by  the  sea. 

June  24.  Arrived  in  Rome  at  7  a.m.  and  went  to  the  Hotel 
Quirinal.  Found  delightful  rooms.  Weather  warm  out  of  doors, 
but  cool  wind  inside.   Drove  and  retired  early.  ^ 

June  27.  Went  to  Tivoli  by  the  nine  o'clock  train.  Visited 
Hadrian's  Villa  and  the  Villa  d'Este.  Breakfasted  and  dined  at 
the  cafe  that  hangs  over  the  great  chasm  in  sight  of  the  Tem- 
ple of  Vesta.  Poured  over  the  cliff  into  the  Anio  a  libation  to 
the  gods  and  took  the  nine  o'clock  train  to  the  city. 

The  Temple  of  Vesta  was  one  of  Mr.  Burnham's  delights  and 
his  fondness  for  its  form  was  not  disturbed  by  the  fact  that  it 
was  reproduced  for  a  chocolate  booth  at  the  Chicago  Fair.  The 
libation  to  the  gods  was  his  suggestion,  and  when  Mr.  Ohnsted 
with  true  New  England  thrift  expostulated  on  the  waste  of  good 
wine,  Burnliam  quickly  answered,  "What's  the  matter  with 
another  bottle?" 

June  29.   Party  including  Mr.  Breck,^  artist,  and  Pulsifer,^ 

1  It  is  true  that  Mr.  Burnham  often  retired  earlj-,  for  he  had  cultivated 
the  habit  of  making  up  the  sleep  that  travel  curtailed  and  disturbed.  But 
for  the  others  it  was  rare  that  the  lights  went  out  before  one  or  two  in  the 
morning. 

-  George  William  Break,  now  of  New  York,  first  winner  of  the  Lazarus 
scholarship  for  mural  painting,  thereby  becoming  a  student  at  the  American 
Academy  in  Rome  (1897-1902);  director  of  the  Academy,  1904-09.  At  this 
time  he  was  at  work  on  a  copy  of  Raphael's  School  at  Athens,  for  the  Uni- 
versity of  Virginia. 

^  Louis  Warren  Pulsifer,  Harvard,  1890;  Massachusetts  Institute  of 
Technology,  189-1;  died,  1905. 


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IN  ROME  151 

architectural  student,  breakfasted  at  the  Quirinal  Hotel,  and 
went  to  the  Villa  Albani,  but  our  permits  would  not  pass  us,  as 
the  day  was  a  festa.  Went  to  the  Villa  Madama,  breakfastmg 
alfresco  on  the  way. 

The  Villa  Madama,  a  Roman  villa  little  known  to  travellers, 
was  designed  by  Raphael  on  a  commission  from  Pope  Clement 
VII,  about  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century.  It  was  be- 
stowed upon  Margaret  of  Austria,  Duchess  of  Parma.  On  this 
day  the  winds,  unobstructed  by  door  or  glass,  were  sweeping 
through  the  great  structure  perched  on  a  steep  hillside  over- 
looking the  winding  Tiber.  The  frescoes  in  floral  arabesques 
by  Giovanni  da  Undine  and  Giulio  Romano's  frieze  of  cherubs 
were  slowly  disappearing;  wild  flowers  ran  riot  among  the  potato 
vines  in  the  once  unrivalled  gardens;  and  over  moss-covered 
pools  delicate  ferns  hung  caressingly.  Beauty  and  tragedy 
have  been  the  history  of  the  villa  for  two  and  a  half  centuries. 

The  next  day  the  party  had  the  good  fortune  to  be  admitted 
to  the  Villa  Albani,  that  treasure-house  of  antique  sculpture 
dug  from  the  ruins  of  Hadrian's  Villa.  During  their  stay  they 
visited  the  private  gardens  of  the  Vatican  and  spent  a  long  and 
happy  day  in  the  gardens  of  the  French  Academy,  the  Villa 
Medici,  which  Hawthorne  describes  in  "The  Marble  Faun." 
They  discussed  the  location  of  the  Memorial  Bridge  at  Wash- 
ington while  sitting  on  the  steps  of  the  circular  temple  in  the 
Villa  Borghese.  They  paid  several  visits  to  the  Villa  dell' 
Aurora,  then  the  home  of  the  American  Academy  in  Rome. 
Mr.  S.  A.  B.  Abbott,  the  director,  was  in  Venice  at  the  time; 
but  Mr.  Breck,  afterwards  the  director,  and  Mr.  Pulsifer,  who 
were  spendmg  the  summer  in  Rome,  accompanied  the  party 
on  various  excursions. 


152  THE  SENATE  PARK:  COMMISSION 

Juhj  1.  Arrived  at  Venice  at  2.30;  found  Mr.  Abbott  ^  wait- 
ing for  us  at  the  depot;  went  to  the  Hotel  de  I'Europe.  Dined 
in  our  beautiful  rooms  overlooking  the  Grand  Canal — the  lady 
on  the  ball  being  just  across  the  water  from  us.^  The  playing 
and  singing  on  the  canal  were  delightful.  Went  to  Piazza  San 
Marco. 

July  2.  Went  to  St.  Mark's  and  the  Public  Gardens,  At 
Salviati's  I  got  some  table  glass  and  at  another  place  some  chair 
covers  of  old  priests'  robes.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Abbott  dined  with 
us  and  afterwards  we  went  out  on  the  water  to  hear  the  singing, 
and  returned  by  St.  Mark's. 

July  3.  On  the  canals  all  day.  Dined  with  the  Abbotts  at 
the  Lido. 

July  4,  Final  shopping  in  Venice.  To-day  we  wore  red, 
w^hite,  and  blue  flowers  in  our  button-holes.^  Had  a  run  up  the 
small  canals  back  of  the  Grand  Canal,  then  to  Giudecca  and 
finally,  reluctantly  to  the  depot,  thinking  of  Tmtoretto,  Car- 
paccio,  Titian  —  and  the  Abbotts!  Left  at  3.10  for  Vienna; 
the  ride  up  through  Udine  was  most  magnificent. 

July  5.  Arrived  in  Vienna  quite  early  and  went  to  Hotel 
Bristol;  then  called  on  the  American  Minister,  Robert  S. 
McCormick,  but  found  he  had  been  compelled  to  run  back 
home  (Chicago).  He  left  a  letter  for  D.  H.  B.,  with  the  Secre- 
tary' of  Legation,  Dr.  HerdUska,*  who  took  us  in  charge. 

1  S.  A.  B.  Abbott,  of  Boston,  then  director  of  the  American  Academy  in 
Rome.  Through  his  courtesy  a  gondola  belonging  to  Mr.  Curtis,  formerly 
of  Boston,  the  owner  of  one  of  the  sumptuous  palaces  on  the  Grand  Canal, 
was  placed  at  the  disposal  of  the  party.  On  the  last  day  of  the  stay,  Mr. 
Burnham  said  to  one  of  the  big,  handsome,  brown-sashed  gondoliers,  "Your 
face  seems  ver>'  familiar  to  me."  "Yes,  Mr.  Burnham,"  was  the  reply  in 
fair  English,  "I  often  rowed  you  at  night  at  the  Chicago  Fair."  The  Curtis 
palace  abounded  in  sketches  by  Sargent,  who  has  painted  a  picture  of  the 
drawing-room,  in  which  old  and  new  are  happily  blended.  The  Curtis 
family  were  absent  from  Venice  at  the  time. 

^  The  figure  of  Fortune  standing  on  a  golden  ball  and  turning  in  the  wind, 
the  weather-vane  on  the  Custom  House.  Compare  decoration  of  John  La 
Farge's  stained-glass  window  in  the  Frick  Building,  Pittsburgh,  which  has 
a  similar  motive. 

'  There  were  many  little  American  flags  on  the  gondolas. 

*  Charles  V.  Herdliska,  who  devoted  his  entire  time  to  the  party,  giving 


VENICE  TO  VIENNA  153 

July  7.  Dr.  Herdliska  breakfasted  with  us  at  the  hotel  and 
saw  us  off  at  noon  for  Budapest.  The  scenery  in  the  mountains 
and  along  the  Danube  was  very  fine.  Arrived  about  7  p.m.  and 
went  to  the  Grand  Hotel,  where  our  rooms  on  the  second  floor 
overlooked  the  Danube. 

July  8.  Drove  through  the  parks,  called  on  the  consul;^ 
lunched  in  Margaret  Island  Park;  drove  to  the  Buda  side,  and 
had  a  most  delightful  time.  Took  the  midnight  train  (Orient 
Express)  for  Paris. 

July  10.  Arrived  in  Paris  at  7.30  p.m.  and  went  to  the  Hotel 
Continental,  where  our  rooms  were  on  the  rue  de  Rivoli,  over- 
looking the  Gardens  of  the  Tuileries;  breakfasted  and  had  the 
first  batch  of  letters  and  a  telegram  from  A.  J.  Cassatt.  Went 
to  the  Luxembourg  Gardens,  with  the  great  fountain  in  the 
centre;  dined  at  the  Cafe  des  Ambassadeurs. 

July  11.  Went  to  Versailles  by  train  and  spent  the  day. 

July  12.  McKim  and  Burnham  went  out  with  H.  C.  Frick 
to  see  the  pictures  at  Ivnoedler's;  drove  to  the  new  (Orleans) 
station;  went  to  the  opera  in  the  evening  —  "Romeo  and 
Juliet." 

July  13.  Went  to  Fontainebleau  and  spent  the  day,  lunching 
and  dining  at  the  cafe  opposite  the  palace;  arrived  at  the  hotel 
at  11.30  and  talked  over  McKim's  new  commission  —  the 
Governor's  Island-  work  till  1  o'clock. 
,    July  14.  Party  went  to  Hotel  des  Invalides  in  the  forenoon; 


a  dinner  in  the  Prater  in  Mr.  McCormick's  name,  arranging  with  the  major- 
domo  of  the  palace  and  the  superintendent  of  the  gardens  at  Schoenbrun 
for  a  long  day,  taking  the  party  to  the  EngUsh  Gardens  where  "The  Belle  of 
New  York"  was  being  given,  and  winding  up  the  night  at  a  garden  cafe, 
where  the  summer  population  was  out  in  force,  and  expressing  regret  at 
3  A.M.  that  the  party  were  "no  sports,"  because  they  sought  their  beds  so 
early!  At  his  instance  the  mayor  of  Vienna  received  the  party  in  his  rooms 
at  the  Municipal  Building.  Dr.  Herdliska  was  supplanted  soon  after  and 
finally  obtained  a  post  in  Peru,  where  he  committed  suicide  through  disap- 
pointment over  his  political  treatment. 

1  Frank  Dyer  Chester. 

"  Governor's  Island,  New  York  Harbor.  The  main  questions  were  the 
project  of  gaining  additional  land  by  filling  in  shallow  water,  and  the  pre- 
servation of  the  old  buildings. 


154  THE  SENATE  PARK  COMMISSION 

lunched  in  our  rooms  and  spent' the  afternoon  at  Versailles. 
D.  H.  B.  took  train  at  7.30  for  Frankfort,  taking  with  him  Ven- 
eUi,  the  courier. 

July  15.  Arrived  in  Frankfort  at  7  a.m.;  drove  in  the  park 
OVald)  and  inspected  the  magnificent  new  depot;  called  on  the 
consul;  but  found  only  the  chief  clerk  who  promised  to  send 
plans  of  the  depot.  ^  Took  train  for  Berlin  at  9.30. 

July  16.  Arrived  at  Berlin  at  7  a.m.,  and  w^ent  to  the  Hotel 
de  Rome ;  had  telegram  from  Graham  saying  that  stocks  were 
falling  fast.  Drove  through  Thiergarten;  called  on  Consul- 
General  Mason;  drove  to  the  Zoo  —  all  before  luncheon.  Left 
for  London  at  9.30. 

July  17.  D.  H.  B.  and  Venelli  arrived  at  Flushing  in  Holland 
about  10  A.M.  and  took  the  boat  for  Queensboro,  reaching  that 
place  about  7  p.m.  ;  took  train  for  London;  arrived  about  10  p.m. 
and  went  to  Berkeley  Hotel,  where  they  found  McKim  and 
Moore;  Burnham  and  Moore  took  a  walk;  all  three  retired 
after  midnight. 

July  18.  Called  on  Mr.  Cassatt  at  2.30  and  then  went  to 
Hotel  Cecil  to  call  on  E.  H.  Power  and  wife;  they  drove  to- 
gether in  Hyde  Park  until  5.30.  Moore  and  Burnham  dined  in 
their  rooms  and  Rick  Olmsted  arrived  at  12  p.m.,  when  all  went 
to  bed. 

The  interview  with  Mr.  Cassatt  was  momentous.  In  sub- 
stance he  told  Mr.  Burnham  that  since  the  Commission  left  the 
United  States  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad  had  acquired  a  con- 
trolling interest  in  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio;  that  if  Congress 
really  intended  to  improve  the  Mall,  he  would  be  willing  to 
give  up  the  present  advantageous  location  of  the  station  and 
build  a  rniion  depot  on  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  site  at  the  cor- 
ner of  New  Jersey  Avenue  and  C  Street,  provided  Senator 
McMillan  would  undertake  to  obtain  an  appropriation  of 

•  Mr.  Cassatt  had  asked  Mr.  Burnham  to  examine  the  Frankfort  station, 
which  Mr.  C.  regarded  as  the  flnest  in  the  world. 


GOOD  NEWS  IN  LONDON  155 

$1,500,000  in  part  payment  of  the  tunnel  under  Capitol  Hill, 
which  would  be  made  necessary  in  order  to  maintain  passenger 
connections  with  the  South.  The  proviso  seemed  to  the  Com- 
mission no  obstacle,  and  they  felt  that  the  foundation  was  now 
laid  for  an  ideal  development  of  Washington.  The  good  news 
was  duly  celebrated  at  dinner. 

July  19.  The  party  went  with  Mr.  Henry  WTiite  (Secretary 
of  Embassy)  to  call  on  the  American  Ambassador,  Mr.  Choate ; 
then  drove  to  Holland  House,  where  they  were  shown  through 
the  mansion  and  grounds  by  Lord  Ilchester,  the  owner. 
Lunched  at  the  Carlton  with  IVIr.  WTiite  and  a  member  of  the 
County  Council.  In  evening  D.  H.  B.,  with  Oknsted  and 
Moore  went  on  the  omnibus  down  Piccadilly  to  the  City. 
D.  H.  B.  lost  his  pocketbook;  notified  the  pohce;  bed  at 

1  A.M. 

July  20.  D.  H.  B.  went  to  Union  Bank  of  London,  and  thence 
to  Scotland  Yard,  where  he  found  his  pocketbook.^  Entire 
party  went  to  Oxford  and  spend  afternoon  there ;  reached  hotel 
at  11.30  and  talked  an  hour  or  more  about  President's  house 
and  grounds. 

July  21.  (Sunday)  Breakfast  (celebrating  the  finding  of  the 
pocketbook)  at  the  Star  and  Garter,  Richmond ;  then  to  Bushy 
Park  and  Hampton  Court,  finishing  the  day  on  the  Thames. 

July  23.  At  Oxford  and  Eton.  John  M.  Ewen  came  to 
dinner.  Went  to  the  play  in  the  evening. 

July  24.  D.  H.  B.  and  Charles  Moore  went  to  the  Tower  of 
London,  Westminster  Abbey,  and  the  Royal  Gallery. 

July  25.  Party,  with  Secretary  of  Embassy,  Henry  White, 
went  to  Hatfield  by  train;  were  met  by  Lord  Salisbury's  car- 
riage and  driven  through  the  grounds,  and  afterwards  were 
taken  through  the  house. 

July  26.    Took  boat  train  at  9;  Deutschland  sailed  from 

'  The  pocketbook  was  dropped  on  the  top  of  the  omnibus,  was  found  by 
the  conductor  and  turned  in.  The  conductor  received  more  than  the  fee  he 
was  legally  entitled  to  —  ten  per  cent  of  the  contents  up  to  five  pounds. 


156  THE  SENATE  PARK  COMMISSION 

Southampton  at  noon;  late  in  the  day  the  wind  came  up  and  it 
blew  hard;  retired  at  10  p.m. 

July  29.  D.  H.  B.  up  early  and  took  a  walk  on  deck;  read 
until  noon;  lunched  in  the  grill;  played  shufllc-board  with 
McKim  and  Olmsted;  then  with  them  worked  on  the  plan  of 
the  Mall,  returning  to  D.  H.  B.'s  suggestion. 

July  30.  Up  early  for  a  walk.  Spent  the  morning  with 
McKim  over  the  Mall  and  suggested  that  we  place  the  Presi- 
dent's House  on  the  site  of  the  old  (Naval)  Obser\'atory ;  all  of 
us  lunched  in  the  grill-room;  played  shuffle-board  with  McKim 
in  the  afternoon.  A  very  beautiful  day. 

August  1.  Arrived  in  New  York  at  10  a.m.  ;  went  to  the  Hol- 
land House  with  John  Burnham;  then  to  the  Fuller  Company; 
took  5.30  P.M.  Limited  for  home. 

The  European  trip  accomplished  the  purposes  intended.  For 
seven  weeks  the  party  kept  steadily  at  work.  Mr.  Ohnsted's 
tin  case  of  Washington  maps  and  plans  was  always  at  hand;  his 
ever-ready  kodak  missed  no  important  object;  and  his  file 
cards  recorded  heights  and  breadths  with  method  and  without 
end.  Everywhere  the  party  took  their  meals  together  in  their 
common  room,  where  they  would  sit  late  into  the  night  discuss- 
ing the  lessons  of  the  day.  Paris  revealed  itself  as  a  well-artic- 
ulated city  —  a  work  of  civic  art.  Versailles,  Fontainebleau, 
Hampton  Court,  examples  of  the  use  of  a  long  stretch  of  water, 
tree-Uned,  furnished  ideas  for  the  basin  between  the  Washing- 
ton Monument  and  the  Lincoln  Memorial,  and  the  latter  mon- 
ument took  its  place  as  the  completion  of  the  main  axis.  Vaux 
le  Vicomte,  Compicgne,  Schoenbrun,  Hatfield  House,  and  Vir- 
ginia Water  gave  inspirations  for  the  treatment  of  the  Mall. 
A  close  study  of  Lenotre's  work  in  France,  together  with  re- 
flections of  it  in  other  countries,  revealed  subtleties  and  per- 
fections appUcable  to  the  American  work.  In  Rome  the  mem- 


The  Chateau 


The  Gardens,  with  C.  F.  McKim  on  the  steps 
VAUX  LE  VICOMTE,  NEAR  MELUN,  FRANCE 


RESULTS  OF  THE  TRIP  157 

bers  were  brought  face  to  face  with  things  eternal.  All  that 
man  had  done  to  express  his  nature  in  highest  terms  had  been 
gathered  there  during  the  ages.  The  fleeting,  the  transitory,  the 
ephemeral,  the  self-assertive,  the  struggle  for  originality,  all 
seemed  to  drop  out  of  mind,  leaving  a  desire  to  discover  and  to 
use  in  the  work  of  a  new  nation  those  forms  which  have  satis- 
fied age  after  age  of  men.  For  Rome  itself  is  the  gathering- 
place  of  precious  fragments  of  civilizations  that  were  old  even 
before  the  city  of  Romulus  and  Remus  was  founded.  And  yet 
to-day  it  is  a  vital,  progressive  city. 

Over  and  over  again  during  these  days  there  would  come  to 
Mr.  Burnham's  lips,  as  he  looked  off  over  the  many  domed  city, 
the  words  that  seemed  a  summation  of  his  life-philosophy: 
"Ye  shall  know  the  truth  and  the  truth  shall  make  you  free." 

August  11.  (Sunday.)  D.  H.  B.  spent  the  morning  making 
a  water-color  on  the  beach;  and  in  the  afternoon  with  his  wife 
and  daughter  Margaret  went  riding  and  called  on  the  Harpers 
at  Glencoe,  the  Sears  at  Kenilworth  and,  after  tea,  on  Mrs. 
Burnet. 

August  15.  D.  H.  B.  and  Peirce  Anderson  arrived  in  Pitts- 
burgh; visited  Lovejoy  and  Kinch;  visited  the  Frick  Building, 
Oliver  Building,  the  depot,  the  new  Exposition;  lunched  and 
dined  at  the  Duquesne  Club;  took  automobile  drive  with 
Kinch  and  left  on  the  night  train  for  Washington. 

August  16.  Went  with  Rick  Ohnsted  to  Rock  Creek  Park 
and  to  the  Capitol  for  lunch.  D.  H.  B.  dined  with  Secretary 
Gage  and  Senator  Newlands  and  ladies  at  Woodley.  Took 
train  for  New  York. 

August  17.  D.  H.  B.  and  Anderson  breakfasted  at  the  Hol- 
land House,  then  went  to  the  Fuller  office  and  aften\-ards  to  see 
McKim.  D.  H.  B.  took  train  for  Webster,  Massachusetts: 
arrived  about  6  and  found  Albert  Wells  waiting  there;  went  to 
his  house  in  Southbridge. 


158  THE  SENATE  PARK  COMMISSION 

August  18.  Spent  the  day  with  the  Wells  people.  Fished  in 
the  pond  till  dark. 

August  19.  Took  9.30  train  for  Boston,  and  went  to  Con- 
cord to  see  the  Middlesex  School;  came  back  and  went  with 
McKim  and  Olmsted  to  see  the  Curtis  models  (of  Washington). 

August  20.  Went  with  Olmsted  and  McKim  to  Manchester 
to  lunch  and  dine  with  Senator  McMillan  and  came  in  about 

10  P.M. 

The  afternoon  was  spent  at  "  Eagle  Head  "  on  the  wide  ver- 
anda overlooking  the  sea,  where  report  of  the  European  trip 
was  made  and  plans  for  the  future  discussed.  Besides  the 
four  travellers  there  were  at  dmner  Mrs.  and  Miss  McMillan,^ 
Senator  AUison,  of  Iowa,  Chairman  of  the  Senate  Committee 
on  Appropriations;  and  IVIr.  T.  Jefferson  Coolidge,  a  neighbor, 
whose  son-in-law,  Mr.  Thomas  Newbold,  accompanied  the 
party  on  their  visit  to  Holland  House.  Senator  McMillan 
introduced  Mr.  Burnham  as  "General  Burnham,"  and  re- 
peated the  reference  in  spite  of  Mr.  B's  disclaimer  of  military 
rank.  WTien  the  dinner  had  well  progressed,  Senator  McMillan 
called  to  Senator  AUison,  saying,  "Senator,  perhaps  you  have 
noticed  that  I  have  persisted  in  calling  Mr.  Burnham  '  General.' 
He  does  n't  like  it;  but  I  want  to  say  to  you  that  a  man  who 
could  persuade  President  Cassatt  to  take  the  Pennsylvania 
Railroad  out  of  the  Mall,  deserves  to  be  a  general."  There  was 
much  more  than  a  joke  in  the  remark:  it  was  the  Senator's 
method  of  impressing  upon  his  all-powerful  colleague  his  own 
high  appreciation  of  the  work  Mr.  Burnham  had  already  ac- 
complished. 

September  6.  President  McKinley  was  shot  by  an  anarchist 
at  Buffalo  at  4  o'clock  to-day. 

•  Now  the  wife  of  Colonel  Sir  John  Harrington,  of  London,  former 
British  Minister  to  Abyssinia. 


WORK  AND  PLAY  159 

September  14.  D.  H.  B.  and  Peirce  Anderson  met  J.  G. 
Schmidlapp  at  his  home  (Kircheim)  m  Cincmnati  for  break- 
fast. They  with  Taylor  ^  and  Gest  ^  spent  part  of  the  day  at 
the  Art  Museum. 

September  15.  Arrived  in  New  York  and  spent  part  of  the 
day  at  McKim's  Washington  worlvroom  with  Partridge  ^  and 
Ohnsted;  took  midnight  train  for  New  Bedford. 

September  16.  Arrived  at  New  Bedford  and  took  the  Gay 
Head  for  Nantucket.  Went  to  J.  B.  Sherman's,  where  found 
IVIrs.  Burnham  and  Dan. 

September  17.  Went  saihng  in  Captain  Pease's  catboat  for 
bluefish,  but  without  luck.  Stayed  out  all  day,  and  on  return- 
ing found  Ethel  and  Margaret. 

September  21.  Spent  day  with  Hubert  in  Annapolis;  re- 
turned to  Washington  and  found  W.  H.  Harper  there. 

September  25.  Arrived  in  New  York;  found  Mrs.  Burnham 
and  Margaret  at  Holland  House.  Saw  the  Fullers  and  Miss 
Wliite;  they  and  the  Baldwins  dined  with  us.  McKim  and 
Saint-Gaudens  lunched  with  D.  H.  B.  and  Stanford  White 
came  in.  Margaret  went  to  Dobbs  Ferry  and  we  saw  the 
Fullers  aboard  the  Bismarck. 

September  26.  D.  H.  B.  and  wife  took  7.25  train  for  Phila- 
delphia; found  Graham  at  the  Bellevue;  B.  and  G.  met 
Cassatt  and  staff  at  his  office  and  settled  about  the  Wash- 
ington depot.  D.  H.  B.  and  wife  took  afternoon  train  for 
Washington. 

September  27.  D.  H.  B.  and  wife  took  drive  and  she  went 
wath  him  to  the  Press  Gallery.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Harper  dined 
with  us.  ^ 


'  William  Watts  Taylor,  president  of  the  Rookwood  Pottery. 

'  Joseph  Henry  Gest,  director  of  the  Cincinnati  Art  Museum. 

'  William  T.  Partridge,  under  whose  direction  the  Washington  drawings 
were  prepared. 

*  Mr.  W.  H.  Harper,  of  Chicago,  was  employed  by  Mr.  Burnham  to  pre- 
pare the  report  of  the  Commission  and  worked  faithfully  at  the  task.  Not 
being  familiar  with  Washington,  his  work  was  done  at  a  disadvantage;  and 
it  seemed  best  to  entrust  the  writing  of  the  report  to  Messrs.  Olmsted  and 
Moore. 


160  THE  SENATE  PARK  COMMISSION 

From  Washington,  Mr.  Burnham  wrote  this  report  of  the 
conference  referred  to  in  the  Diary: 

D.  II.  B.  to  Senator  McMillan 

Sir:  At  a  meeting  yesterday  with  IVIr,  Cassatt  and  his  staff, 
in  his  office,  the  Pennsylvania  Railway  passenger  station  in 
the  city  of  Washington  was  discussed. 

He  feels  the  great  advantage  of  the  location  on  the  Mall, 
which  his  company  has  obtained  only  after  ten  years'  constant 
work,  and  which  is  satisfactory  from  a  railway  point  of  view. 
He  says  that  he  could  not  consider  any  other  location,  were  it 
not  for  the  present  friendly  relations  between  the  Pennsylvania 
and  Baltimore  &  Ohio  Railway  Companies.  In  view  of  these 
friendly  relations,  however,  he  is  willing  to  consider  a  union 
passenger  station,  for  both  roads,  on  the  site  granted  by  Con- 
gress to  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  Railway  Company.  Pursuant 
to  his  order,  studies  for  such  a  station  were  made  and  were 
considered  in  the  meeting  referred  to  above;  and,  the  scheme 
being  found  practicable,  Mr.  Cassatt  authorized  me  to  state 
to  you  that  his  company  is  willing  to  adopt  it  and  give  up  its 
holdings  on  the  Mall,  provided  they  can  secure  the  proper 
compensations  and  enactments  on  the  part  of  the  Govern- 
ment. 

This  scheme  involves  a  tunnel  under  the  Government  plaza 
lying  between  the  Capitol  and  the  Congressional  Library; 
it  also  involves  the  condemnation  of  the  two  blocks  lying  be- 
tween the  said  plaza  and  C  Street  North,  on  which  latter  the 
new  station  will  face.  This  condemnation  is  necessary  because 
the  station  and  its  surroundings  should  be  treated  in  a  monu- 
mental manner,  as  they  will  become  the  vestibule  of  the  city 
of  Washington,  and  as  they  will  be  in  close  proximity  to  the 
Capitol  itself. 

A  meeting  has  been  arranged,  for  Saturday  morning,  for 
Mr.  Loree,  president  of  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  Railway  Com- 
pany; Mr.  BrowTi,  chief  engineer  of  the  Pennsylvania  Railway 
Company;  and  myself.  We  are  to  inspect  the  site  together  and 


A  PUBLIC-SPIRITED  CORPORATION         161 

report  to  Mr.  Cassatt,  and  I  do  not  anticipate  that  any  diffi- 
culties will  develop. 

Mr.  Cassatt  requests  that  you  will  have  the  proper  chief 
engineer  of  the  Government  meet  the  Pennsylvania  Company's 
chief  engineer,  Mr.  \V.  H.  Brown,  as  soon  as  possible,  in  order 
that  they  together  may  agree  on  the  details;  and,  as  soon  as  the 
engineers  report,  he  hopes  you  will  honor  him  with  a  meeting 
at  which  the  terms  of  the  bill  to  be  introduced  in  December 
can  be  agreed  upon  between  you. 

The  Pennsylvania  Railway  Company  have  showTi  in  this 
whole  matter  a  disposition  to  consider  pubhc  rights  which  is 
imusual;  and  I  know  of  no  precedent  on  the  part  of  a  great  rail- 
road company  which  equals  it.  We  are  to  be  congratulated  that 
we  have  had  Air.  Cassatt  to  deal  with;  and  I  have  felt  author- 
ized to  assure  him  that  you  mil  meet  him  in  the  same  spirit  of 
justice  and  liberahty  shown  by  himself. 

Yours  respectfully 

D.  H.  BURNHAM 

September  29.  Mclvim  came  in  at  breakfast  and  stayed  all 
day. 

October  12.  Arrived  in  Cincinnati;  saw  Schoepf  and  Mc- 
Gowan  at  the  Traction  offices  at  2.45  and  spent  the  rest  of  the 
afternoon  with  yoimg  Foraker  and  Schoepf  regarding  plans. 
Dined  at  the  St.  Nicholas  with  the  two  Forakers,  Schoepf,  and 
Warrington,  and  took  the  8.35  p.m.  train  for  Chicago. 

October  18.  On  train  to  New  York.  Worked  with  Anderson 
and  Harper  in  stateroom  on  Washington  documents.  Lunched 
with  Secretary  Gage,  Mrs.  Chatfield-Taylor,  and  Mrs.  Cole- 
man. 

October  19.  Left  New  York  for  Philadelphia  at  7.25  a.m.  ;  saw 
WiUiam  H.  Brown  and  President  Cassatt  and  Mr.  Nicholson. 
Arrived  in  Washington  at  6.30  and  met  Saint-Gaudens,  Mc- 
Kim,  and  Harper  at  the  New  Willard. 

October  20.  Saint-Gaudens,  McKim,  Anderson,  Harper,  and 
Buniham  spent  the  morning  at  the  B.  &  0.  site  and  in  the 
Senate  Press  Gallery. 


162  THE  SENATE  PARK  COMMISSION 

October  21.  Burnham  and  party,  including  Saint-Gaudens, 
McKim,  Olmsted,  Anderson,  Harper,  Waldo  Story,  and  S.  A.  B. 
Abbott,  spent  the  entire  day  and  evening  together.  McKim 
gave  the  dinner  at  the  New  Willard.  A  portion  of  the  day  was 
spent  in  an  informal  hearing  held  at  the  Senate  District  Com- 
mittee room,  on  the  subject  of  the  suburban  parks.  Mr.  Burn- 
ham,  Mr,  Olmsted,  and  IVIr.  Moore  discussed  with  the  president 
of  the  Board  of  District  Commissioners,  Mr.  H.  B.  F.  Mac- 
farland,  and  with  Mr.  S.  P.  Langley,  secretary  of  the  Smith- 
sonian Institution,  the  rectification  of  the  Rock  Creek  Park 
boundaries  and  the  need  of  a  new  National  Museum  building.^ 

October  22.   Same  party  dined  at  Mrs.  Henderson's.'^ 

October  23.  Three  of  us  settled  the  Agricultural  Department 
competition  and  wired  Olmsted,  who  had  gone  home.  Gave 
the  job  to  Lord  &  Hewlett,^  of  New  York. 

October  25.  Senator  Cullom  lunched  with  party.  McKim, 
Abbott,  and  Saint-Gaudens  left  in  the  afternoon.  Moore  dined 
with  me. 

November  17.  (Sunday.)  D.  H.  B.  stayed  at  home  all  day 
and  evening,  never  leavmg  the  house.  Theodore  Thomas  and 
wife,  Charles  Fuller,  and  Mrs.  Woodyatt  came  to  dinner  at  2.30. 
"  November  23.  In  Cincinnati  with  Messrs.  Schoepf  and  For- 
aker  from  9  till  11  a.m.;  and  from  3.30  till  5  p.m.  with  Schmid- 
lapp,  and  at  his  house  with  trustees  of  Museum  till  train  time. 

November  24,  Arrived  in  Pittsburgh  at  6.30;  spent  the  morn- 
ing in  the  Frick  Building  with  Kinch,  Clark,  and  White;  spent 
the  afternoon  with  Harry  Oliver  concerning  his  ground  on 
Wood  and  Sixth  Streets. 

November  26.  D.  H,  B.  moved  into  the  Union  League  Club 
for  a  week's  work, 

•  This  hearing  forms  Park  Improvement  Paper  No.  11. 

°  The  dinner  was  given  to  the  Commission  by  former  Senator  and  Mrs, 
John  B.  Henderson  at  their  home,  Boundary  Castle.  The  trustees  of  the 
Corcoran  Art  Gallery  were  present  and  arrangements  were  made  to  use  a 
portion  of  the  gallery  for  the  exhibition  of  the  drawings  and  models  illus- 
trating the  Washington  plans. 

'  Owing  to  one  of  the  usual  disputes  between  the  Government  and  the 
architects  as  to  fees,  the  commission  was  taken  from  Lord  &  Hewlett  and 
given  to  Rankin  &  Crane,  of  Philadelphia. 


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A  FAST  RUN  163 

November  28.  (Thanksgiving.)  At  the  office  all  day  and  at 
Mrs.  Lord's  for  dinner;  slept  at  home. 

November  29.  At  Union  League  Club  working  on  Oliver 
plans. 

December  1.  D.  H.  B.  and  Peirce  Anderson  spent  the  fore- 
noon in  Pittsburgh  with  Messrs.  Frick,  Clark,  Kinch,  White, 
and  others;  lunched  with  Mr.  Frick.  B.  saw  Mr.  H.  W.  Oliver 
in  afternoon  and  took  a  job  for  him;  80  x  240,  corner  of  Wood, 
Virgin  Alley,  and  Fifth  Street,  Pittsburgh. 

December  2.  D.  H.  B.  and  Anderson  spent  the  day  in  Wash- 
ington at  the  District  Commissioner's  office.  B.  went  to  Phil- 
adelphia at  4.10  and  spent  the  night  with  T.  N.  Ely  at  Br>'n 
Mawr. 

December  3.  D.  H.  B.  breakfasted  at  Ely's  house,  then  came 
in  and  boarded  President  Cassatt's  train  for  Washington, 
where  he  found  Mr.  Cassatt  and  Mr.  Brown.  They  ran  from 
8.10  A.M.  to  Washington  in  2  hours  and  25  minutes,  some  of  the 
way  at  80  miles  an  hour.  McKim,  Ohnsted,  and  Abbott  came. 
Party  met  Senator  McMillan  in  Senate  District  Committee 
room  and  then  inspected  the  new  depot  site. 

The  site  talked  about  for  the  union  station  was  at  the  corner 
of  C  Street  and  New  Jersey  Avenue,  the  land  between  the  Cap- 
itol and  C  Street  to  be  purchased  for  a  plaza.  This  location  in- 
volved carrying  through  Massachusetts  Avenue  (one  of  the 
great  thoroughfares  of  the  city)  in  a  tunnel;  and  Mr.  Burnham 
was  anxious  both  to  avoid  this  and  also  to  secure  a  location 
better  related  to  the  Capitol.  On  November  10  he  wired 
Charles  Moore: 

Feel  that  meeting  in  Washington  between  President  of  Rail- 
way and  Senator  McMillan  will  settle  depot  site  north  of 
Massachusetts  Avenue.   Can  you  bring  it  about? 

Mr.  Burnham's  hopes  were  justified,  and  at  the  meeting  on 
December  3  the  new  location  was  decided  upon,  subject  to  a 


164  THE  SENATE  PARK  COMMISSION 

solution  of  the  problem  of  grades.  The  diiTiculties  are  dis- 
cussed in  this  letter. 

D.  II.  B.  to  Charles  Moore 

Chicago,  December  13,  1901 

Dear  Charles  :  Since  we  returned,  the  question  of  the  loca- 
tion of  the  Pennsylvania  depot  was  again  to  the  fore.  The  en- 
gineers made  some  difTiculty  because  of  the  fill  required.  But 
Mr.  Anderson  went  back  to  see  Mr.  Cassatt,  and  has  returned 
this  afternoon,  and  everjlhing  is  now  in  good  shape.  I  again 
beg  that  the  District  engineers  shall  raise  no  questions,  and  that 
they  shall  heartily  assist  in  carrying  through  the  design. 

The  Government  is  to  fill  and  finish  the  Grand  Court  in 
front  of  the  depot.  Of  course,  this  will  cost  some  money,  but  it 
is  for  the  adornment  of  the  city,  to  produce  a  vestibule  in  keep- 
ing with  the  Capitol,  and  is  as  important  as  the  work  around 
the  Monument  in  the  Mall. 

The  railways  can  get  along  without  this  Grand  Court,  but 
we  cannot.  It  is  essential  to  the  broad  scheme  of  improvement, 
and  is  for  the  dignity  and  beauty  of  the  city,  and  should  be  pro- 
vided for  in  the  railroad  bill,  so  that  work  on  it  can  proceed 
early  this  year. 

Mr.  BrowTi,  the  chief  engineer  of  the  Pennsylvania  Company, 
proposes  to  have  an  interview  with  the  Engineer  Commissioner 
and  his  stall  at  once.  I  hope  there  will  be  no  hitch  in  their  meet- 
ing, on  which  will  depend  the  exact  details  of  the  bill. 

Mr.  Burnham  in  Chicago  was  working  on  the  designs  for 
the  railway  station  which  was  to  be  the  very  foundation  of  the 
improvement  of  Washington.  The  removal  of  railroad  tracks 
from  the  Mall  was  prerequisite  to  the  restoration  of  the  great 
conception  of  L'Enfant.  Moreover,  the  treatment  of  a  station 
as  one  of  the  monumental  public  buildings  of  a  capital  city  was 
novel  in  tliis  country  —  novel  to  both  the  pubUc  and  the  rail- 
ways. 


RENDERINGS  OF  THE  DRAWINGS  165 

Mr.  McKim  and  Mr.  Olmsted,  with  the  counsel  of  Mr. 
Saint-Gaudens,  were  supervising  matters  in  New  York,  where 
the  Curtis  models  and  the  drawings  were  being  completed 
under  the  direction  of  William  T.  Partridge.  The  strain  of 
getting  the  work  done  on  time  was  such  as  to  create  an  esprit 
de  corps  which  found  expression  in  niunerous  diversions  and 
in  caricatures  by  Githens  and  others.^ 

At  what  he  considered  the  proper  time,  Mr.  McKim  had 
launched  a  new  project.  Plans  and  drawings,  he  argued,  mean 
nothing  to  the  lay  observer,  and  not  much  more  to  the  pro- 
fessional. In  order  to  carry  conviction,  drawings  must  be 
rendered.  For  this  task  the  best  illustrators  in  the  country 
were  none  too  good.  But  they  were  working  for  the  monthly 
magazines,  and  the  art-editors  must  be  induced,  for  patriotic 
reasons,  to  give  them  their  time  to  do  a  national  work.  All 
this  McKim,  in  his  plausible  way,  explained  to  Senator 
McMillan,  one  September  day;  and  the  Senator  smiled  his 
appreciation  of  McKim's  clever  presentation  of  the  scheme, 
and  assented  to  it  in  a  phrase  that  had  become  customary 
with  him:  "Go  ahead.  If  the  Government  will  not  pay  for  it, 
I  wiU." 

Thereupon  Jules  Guerin  and  Otto  Bacher,  Carleton  T. 
Chapman,  Sears  and  Percival  Gallagher,  F.  L.  V.  Hoppin, 
Bacon,  Blum,  C.  Graham,  Curtis,  McCarter,  Rodeman,  and 
Ross,  called  from  their  regular  tasks,  were  set  at  work  render- 
ing architectural  drawings  and  making  models  to  create  an 
art  exhibition;  and  so  well  did  they  execute  their  subjects  that 


'  Those  employed  in  the  New  York  office  included  Messrs.  Baer,  Butler, 
Chapman,  Crow,  de  Gersdorff,  Elliot,  Harmon,  Johnson,  Kaiser,  Merz, 
Morris,  Mundy,  Shcphard,  Trueblood,  Walker,  and  Weeks. 


166  THE  SENATE  PARK  COMMISSION 

after  twenty  years  the  pictures  are  still  exhibited  with  satis- 
faction to  the  beholder. 

In  Washington  work  in  the  Senate  Press  Gallery  continued 
with  accelerating  speed  under  the  leadership  of  James  G. 
Langdon,  assisted  by  R.  A.  Outhet  and  E.  A.  Douglas.  In  this 
ofTice  the  outlying  areas  were  mapped  and  considered  with 
the  aim  of  making  throughout  the  entire  District  of  Columbia 
a  well-articulated  park  system,  and  even  extending  the  project 
to  Great  Falls  on  the  upper  Potomac  and  down  that  river  to 
Mount  Vernon. 

Meantime,  the  report  to  be  made  by  the  Park  Commission 
to  the  Senate  Committee  on  the  District  of  Columbia  was  be- 
ing prepared  by  Mr.  Olmsted  and  Mr.  Moore,  who  gathered  a 
wealth  of  photographs  of  significant  European  works  to  sup- 
plement the  reproductions  and  drawings.  The  report  of  the 
Senate  Committee  transmitting  the  Commission  report  to  the 
Senate  and  giving  a  history  of  the  undertaking,  together  with 
unqualified  approval  of  the  new  plans,  was  written  by  Mr. 
Moore,  and  was  unanimously  approved  by  the  Conunittee.^ 

The  question  of  a  suitable  place  in  which  to  hold  the  ex- 
hibition having  come  up  during  the  recess  of  Congress,  former 

*  The  Senate  Committee  on  the  District  of  Columbia  was  made  up  of 
James  McMillan,  Michigan  (chairman);  Jacob  H.  Gallinger,  New  Hamp- 
shire; Henry  C.  Hansborough,  North  Dakota;  Jeter  C.  Pritchard,  North 
Carolina;  William  M.  Stewart,  Nevada;  William  P.  Dillingham,  Vermont; 
Addison  G.  Foster,  Washington;  George  L.  Wellington,  Marj^land;  Thomas 
S.  Martin,  Virginia;  Stephen  R.  Mallory,  Florida;  Henr>'  Heitfeld,  Idaho; 
William  A.  Clark,  Montana;  Murphy  J.  Foster,  Louisiana. 

The  document  is:  57th  Congress,  first  session.  Senate  Report  No.  IGG, 
The  Improvement  of  the  Park  System  of  the  District  of  Columbia:  I.  Re- 
port of  the  Senate  Committee  on  the  District  of  Columbia.  II.  Report  of 
the  Park  Commission.  Edited  by  Charles  Moore,  clerk  of  the  Senate 
Committee  on  the  District  of  Columbia;  Washington:  Government  Print- 
ing Ofnce,  1902;  pp.  171;  with  illustrations  and  maps. 


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COAT-OF-ARMS  OF  THE  SENATE  PARK  COMMISSION 

1901 

(Saint-GiiiKlens,  IVIcKiin,  Burnham,  Olmsted) 

C.ariculure  by  A.  M.  Githens 


THE  PLAN  PRESENTED  167 

Senator  and  Mrs.  John  B.  Henderson  gave  a  large  dinner  at 
their  home.  Boundary  Castle.  There  the  members  of  the 
Park  Commission  met  the  trustees  of  the  Corcoran  Gallery  of 
Art,  and  during  the  evening  a  sufTicient  portion  of  the  Gallery 
was  offered  for  the  purpose;  and  the  offer  was  gladly  accepted. 
The  opening  took  place  on  January  15,  1902.  During  the  pre- 
vious night  almost  until  daylight  Charles  McKim  completed 
the  installation  of  197  separate  exhiljits.  Haff  the  night  he  was 
on  a  step-ladder,  giving  just  the  right  placing  or  inclination 
to  drawing  or  photograph.  In  the  center  of  the  floor-space 
stood  the  two  Curtis  models,  one  showing  existing  conditions 
from  Capitol  to  Lincoln  Memorial  site;  the  other  expressing 
in  striking  manner  the  entire  plan  for  the  great  central  com- 
position; and  there  were  small  models  of  the  Monument  Gar- 
den and  other  features. 

The  superb  renderings  in  color,  many  enlarged  photographs 
of  illustrative  scenes  and  the  drawings  themselves  made  an 
array  that  quite  carried  away  the  visitor.  No  such  presenta- 
tion had  ever  been  made  in  this  country. 

Senator  McMillan,  Senator  Gallinger,  and  other  members 
of  the  Senate  Committee  on  the  District  of  Columbia  received 
the  guests.  There  came  President  Roosevelt,  interested,  curi- 
ous, at  first  critical  and  then,  as  the  great  consistent  scheme 
dawned  on  him,  highly  appreciative.  Secretary  Root  had  been 
consulted  from  the  inception  of  the  work.  Secretary  John  Hay 
was  especially  interested  in  the  location  and  design  of  the 
,  memorial  to  Lincoln,  each  of  which  he  regarded  as  inevitable. 
Secretary  Hitchcock  was  particularly  interested  in  the  foun- 
tains, the  play  of  waters  recalling  Versailles  and  Peterhof. 
There  were  senators  and  members  of  the  House,  and  a  few 


168  THE  SENATE  PARK  COMMISSION 

other  invited  guests.   Thereafter  the  galleries  were  opened  to 

the  public. 

Mr,  Burnham  was  not  able  to  be  present  during  the  last 
days.  On  January  22,  1902,  he  wrote  to  Mr.  McKim: 

D.  H.  B.  to  McKim 

Dear  Charles:  The  display  in  Washington  was  beyond  my 
expectations,  and  although  I  realized  that  it  would  be  impres- 
sive I  was  unprepared  for  its  effect  on  me.  I  congratulate  you 
on  the  success  of  your  work.  It  is  greater  than  I  dared  hope  for. 
The  only  disappointment  arose  from  Curtis's  model  of  the  Mall 
as  it  is  proposed  to  be.  Its  unfinished  condition  is  responsible 
for  this.  He  could  in  a  day  bring  it  up  and  I  hope  he  has  done 
so  ere  now.  ...  I  notice  you  have  made  the  plaza  in  front  of 
the  station  a  half-circle.  I  should  have  liked  this  and  so  drew 
it  at  first,  but  it  is  impracticable,  and  no  other  form  out  of 
fifty  tried  meets  the  requirements  as  does  the  one  sent  the 
Engineer  Commissioner.  .  .  .  After  another  fit  of  fear  and 
trembling  I  asked  Mr.  Cassatt  to  let  me  lower  the  depot 
twenty-odd  feet.  It  was  in  the  bill  prepared  by  the  engineers 
-1-66,  the  Capitol  being  only  about  -|-86.  This  made  me  fear 
the  competition  of  the  two  structures.  Mr.  Cassatt  not  only 
agreed,  but  gave  us  praise  for  a  more  sensible  railway  solution. 
I  think  we  may  get  it  down  to  nearly  +40.  We  are  nearly 
there  now. 

Ely  said  that  you  and  he  felt  that  I  am  doing  too  much  for 
my  work  and  myself.  All  I  know  is  that  I  am  doing  better  work 
than  I  did  in  the  years  that  are  gone,  and  that  I  do  my  work 
easier. 

The  plans  submitted  to  the  Senate  District  Committee  and 
by  that  Committee  reported  to  Congress  were  professedly  and 
actually  a  reinstatement  of  the  L'Enfant  plan  of  1792,  so  en- 
larged as  to  bring  into  the  arrangement  Potomac  Park,  thus 
extending  the  main  axis  and  creating  a  central  composition 


A  COMPREHENSIVE  SCHEME  169 

dignified,  beautiful,  and  of  great  extent.  The  chief  element  was 
a  new  main  axis  rectifying  the  mistake  or  oversight  of  the 
builders  of  the  Washington  Monument.  This  was  accom- 
phshed  by  drawing  a  line  from  the  dome  of  the  Capitol  through 
the  Monument  and  prolonging  it  to  the  Potomac,  with  a  me- 
morial to  Abraham  Lincoln  as  the  terminal  feature.  The  cross- 
axis  from  the  WTiite  House  southward  was  re-created  by  the 
location  of  a  great  fountain  on  the  line  west  of  the  Monument, 
and  a  terminal  group  of  buildings  on  the  banks  of  the 
Potomac. 

The  new  plans  contemplated  not  only  the  improvement  of 
the  Mall  and  the  Monument  grounds,  but  also  driveways, 
boulevards,  and  park  connections  throughout  the  entire  Dis- 
trict of  Columbia;  the  reclaiming  for  park  purposes  of  the 
Anacostia  Flats;  the  acquisition  of  additional  park  areas  in 
those  portions  of  the  District  ill-provided  with  such  breath- 
ing-spaces, and  the  development  of  areas  already  possessed 
and  aw'aiting  improvement.  There  were  boulevards  to  Mount 
Vernon  and  Great  Falls,  and  park  treatment  for  the  Palisades 
of  the  Potomac. 

\Mien  one  recalls  the  setting  of  many  foreign  capitals  and 
their  flat  topography,  one  realizes  that  with  so  superb  a  begin- 
ning, and  with  the  majestic  Monument  in  a  vista  closed  by  the 
Potomac  and  the  Virginia  hills,  the  possibilities  for  beautiful 
treatment  of  Washington  were  unequalled.  The  plans  opened 
the  way  to  realize  these  possibilities. 

From  the  Capitol  Hill  to  and  up  the  Washington  Monument 
slope,  a  mile  and  a  hah  distant,  two  lines  of  stately  elms  march 
majestically  in  column  of  fom-s,  one  column  on  each  side  of  a 
carpet  of  greensward  three  hundred  feet  wide.   Buildings  of 


170  THE  SENATE  PARK:  COMMISSION 

white  marble  gleam  behind  the  rows  of  elms.  Thus,  by  a 
device  of  planting,  the  Monument  is  brought  into  the  vista 
of  the  Capitol. 

The  Monument  would  rise  from  a  plane  instead  of  a  mound. 
This  plane,  as  extensive  as  the  piazza  in  front  of  St.  Peter's  in 
Rome,  is  flanked  by  ehns  carried  on  terraces.  Broad  marble 
steps  on  the  western  side  lead  down  to  a  formal  garden  enclosed 
by  wooded  terraces;  and  from  this  garden  the  broad  opening 
leads  to  a  long  canal,  tree-bordered,  as  at  Versailles.  Nearly  a 
mile  away,  where  the  axis  meets  the  Potomac,  is  a  great  rond- 
point  surmounted  by  a  Doric  structure  commemorating  the 
one  man  in  our  national  history  who  is  worthy  to  stand  with 
Washington  —  Abraham  Lincoln. 

From  this  point  of  divergence  a  memorial  bridge  leads 
straight  across  the  Potomac  to  the  terraced  slopes  of  Arlington, 
surmounted  by  the  temple-like  mansion,  w^hich,  once  the  home 
of  Robert  E.  Lee,  now  stands  sentinel  among  the  thousands  of 
graves  of  Union  soldiers.  From  the  same  point  of  departure 
one  road  leads  up  the  river  to  the  valley  of  Rock  Creek,  and 
thence  to  the  great  park  which  takes  its  name  from  that 
stream;  while  a  second  drive  extends  down  the  Potomac  to  the 
park  formed  by  the  engineers  in  reclaiming  malarial  flats,  and 
now  devoted  to  the  sports  of  the  people. 

Agam,  from  the  portico  at  the  rear  of  the  WTiite  House  the 
eye  looks  off  over,  first,  the  circular  parade-ground,  and  thence 
over  the  garden  at  the  foot  of  the  Monument,  which  is  treated 
as  an  adjunct  to  the  towering  needle,  thus  estabUshing  the 
reciprocity  between  the  two  structures  that  now  is  missed 
by  reason  of  the  construction  of  the  Monument  off  the  axis. 
The  space  still  farther  to  the  south,  between  the  garden 


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EUROPEAN  PRECEDENTS  171 

and  the  Potomac,  is  arranged  with  basins  for  swimming  and 
boating. 

Fronting  on  the  WTiite  Lots,  as  the  parade-ground  is  called, 
pubHc  or  semi-pubUc  buildings  may  well  be  placed.  The  spaces 
fronting  on  Lafayette  Square  were  to  be  occupied  by  buildings 
for  the  Departments  of  State  and  of  Justice,  and  by  such  other 
monumental  structures  as  the  growing  needs  of  the  Republic 
may  demand. 

In  the  plans,  historic  Pennsj^lvania  Avenue  has  its  south 
side  lined  with  such  structures  as  the  municipal  building  of 
the  District  of  Columbia,  a  modem  market  in  which  the  space 
is  ample  to  accommodate  the  traffic  now  done  on  the  public 
streets,  and  a  hall  of  records  for  storing  in  safety  Government 
archives.  And  the  Capitol  grounds,  too,  should  be  faced  only 
by  pubUc  buildings,  of  which  the  number  already  built  or  pro- 
jected was  sufficient  to  complete  the  square  indicated  by  the 
Capitol  and  the  Library  of  Congress. 

The  return  to  the  original  tjT)e  of  treatment  for  the  develop- 
ment of  the  Mall  was  not  determined  without  most  careful 
consideration.  In  the  Borghese  Gardens,  on  the  broad  terraces 
of  the  Villa  d'  Este,  amid  the  still  splendid  ruins  of  Hadrian's 
Villa,  on  the  Grand  Canal  at  Venice,  on  the  magnificent  Maria 
Theresa  Platz  at  Vienna,  on  the  swift  Danube  curbed  between 
miles  of  stone  quays  at  Budapest,  in  the  Gardens  of  the  Luxem- 
bourg, and  amid  the  splashing  fountains  of  Vaux-le-Vicomte, 
the  Commission  threshed  out  many  a  perplexing  problem. 

The  plans  attracted  wide  attention  and  commanded  admira- 
tion. The  designs  were  published  in  this  country  and  in  Europe 
in  the  daily  newspapers,  popular  magazines,  and  architectural 
journals.  They  were  regarded  as  a  magnificent  vision,  a  New 


172  THE  SENATE  PARK  COMMISSION 

Jerusalem,  to  use  Charles  Eliot  Norton's  phrase.  The  most 
optimistic  regarded  them  at  best  as  something  to  be  attained  if 
at  all  in  a  dim  and  uncertain  future.  The  pessimistic  shrugged 
their  shoulders  at  the  cost  —  $200,000,000  they  figured  — 
and  predicted  that  the  magnificent  scheme  would  never  get 
beyond  the  pictures.  They  miscalculated  the  spirit  and  capa- 
bilities of  the  American  people,  and  the  inherent  capacity  of  a 
truly  great  plan  to  arouse  the  spirit  necessary  to  realize  it. 


CHAPTER  XII 

WASHINGTON  PROBLEMS;  THE  CLEVELAND  PLAN 

1902 

THE  Union  Station  in  Washington  began  to  take 
shape  early  in  1902.  Burnham  had  made  a  hundred 
or  more  quick  studies  for  a  station  on  the  old  site 
at  Sixth  and  B  Streets;  but  now  the  entire  conception  had 
changed.  President  Cassatt  had  asked  Mr.  Burnham  to  go 
to  Frankfort  to  study  the  station  in  that  city,  which  he  con- 
sidered the  finest  railway  station  in  the  world.  The  Washing- 
ton depot  was  to  be  still  finer,  because  of  larger  opportunities. 
Facing  one  of  the  great  avenues  of  the  capital,  it  was  to  have 
as  landscape  setting  a  plaza  capable  of  a  development  that 
should  rival  the  Piazza  di  Termini  in  Rome. 

Moreover,  the  new  station  by  reason  of  proximity  was  to 
bear  distinct  relations  to  the  Capitol  itself.  These  relations 
must  be  such  as  to  subordinate  a  building  of  less  intrinsic  im- 
portance, but  of  great  size,  to  the  chief  structure  of  the  Nation. 
The  dome  of  the  Capitol  must  dominate  without  question. 
There  must  be  no  repetition  of  the  architectural  oversight  made 
in  designing  the  Library  of  Congress,  where  a  golden  dome 
challenges  the  great  dome  of  the  Capitol,  like  a  child  breaking 
in  on  his  parent.  Also  there  were  nice  questions  of  grades,  of 
design,  and  of  material  Then,  too,  the  station  was  to  accom- 
modate the  seven  railroads  entering  the  District  of  Columbia ; 
in  fact  as  in  sentiment  it  was  to  be  the  gateway  to  the  capital 
of  the  United  States.   Special  arrangements  should  be  made 


174  WASHINGTON  PROBLEMS 

for  the  accommodation  of  the  President,  for  high  ofTicials  and 
distinguished  guests  of  the  Nation,  lest  there  be  a  repetition 
of  the  Garfield  tragedy,  which  occurred  in  the  old  Pennsylvania 
station.  Then,  too,  the  space  must  be  ample  for  handling  the 
military  and  naval  organizations  and  the  crowds  that  double 
the  population  of  Washington  with  each  recurring  inaugura- 
tion. The  problems  were  such  as  the  World's  Fair  experience 
presented.  Here  again  was  opportunity  for  the  exercise  of 
creative  imagination.  Burnham  saw  the  Washington  station 
taking  its  place  among  the  commanding  and  essential  public 
buildings  of  the  city.  The  concept  was  a  novel  one;  he  pon- 
dered it  in  his  mind  and  determined  to  realize  it. 

There  were  three  elements  to  deal  with.  First,  the  railroads, 
already  committed  to  an  expenditure  of  ten  millions  for  the 
elimination  of  grade-crossings  and  the  revision  of  freight  ter- 
minals, must  be  brought  to  add  another  four  millions,  only  a 
small  portion  of  which  expenditure  would  be  revenue-produc- 
ing. The  idea  that  railroads  should  expend  money  simply  for 
the  purpose  of  ornamenting  a  city  naturally  met  with  opposi- 
tion on  the  part  of  some  of  the  interests  involved.  Those  offi- 
cials openly  scofTed  at  the  idea,  and  proclaimed  that  their  ideal 
was  the  London  station  —  a  shed  for  sheltering  passengers 
from  the  elements.  The  interior  should  consist  of  billboards, 
yielding  revenue  to  cut  down  the  losses  suffered  from  passen- 
ger traffic.  However,  President  Cassatt  could  be  reUed  on  to 
take  care  of  his  railroad  associates. 

Then  there  was  Congress.  The  proposition  to  pay  the  rail- 
roads a  million  and  a  half  of  dollars  for  vacating  a  public  space 
which  they  used  by  favor  of  the  Government  found  opposi- 
tion, especially  among  those  who  thought  to  win  favor  with 


SENATOR  JAMES  McMILLAN  175 

their  constituents  by  posing  as  economists  in  Washington. 
There  was  opposition  to  a  tunnel  under  Capitol  Hill,  lest  the 
excavation  should  endanger  the  Library  of  Congress.  There 
was  some  opposition  also  to  the  Park  Commission,  but  as  yet 
this  had  not  become  formidable. 

Again,  the  people  of  the  District  raised  objections  to  paying 
damages  to  property  injured  and  for  property  purchased  in 
the  construction  of  the  plaza.  The  great  space  required  a  very 
considerable  fill,  thereby  changing  grades  on  adjoining  streets. 
These  objections  were  taken  to  Congress.  Here  Senator  Mc- 
Millan's wide  railroad  experience  was  potent.  He  had  built 
the  Duluth,  South  Shore  and  Atlantic  Railroad  and  when  he 
entered  the  Senate  he  was  its  president:  during  the  twelve 
years  of  his  senatorial  career  he  had  won  a  reputation  in  both 
houses  of  Congress  for  intelligent  and  disinterested  labors  on 
behalf  of  the  District.  All  the  influence  he  possessed  and  all  his 
patience  and  time  were  devoted  to  obtaining  the  consent  of 
Congress.  The  plans  were  in  his  committee  room,  and  one  by 
one  he  brought  Senators  in  to  see  them,  explaining  each  detail 
that  was  questioned. 

Senator  McMillan,  after  patient  and  persistent  labors  ex- 
tending over  a  period  of  ten  years,  had  secured  the  passage 
of  legislation  eliminating  grade-crossings  in  the  District  of 
Columbia.  That  he  was  willing  to  revise  his  own  project  and 
undertake  the  arduous  labor  of  carrying  new  legislation  through 
Congress  measures  his  estimate  of  the  excellence  of  the  plans, 
and,  incidentally,  his  devotion  to  the  interests  of  the  District 
of  Columbia. 

All  these  arrangements  and  adjustments  took  Mr.  Bumham 
to  Washington  frequently.  On  January  27  the  Diary  says: 


176  WASHINGTON  PROBLEMS 

.\rrived  in  Washington  at  8.30  and  went  to  the  Senate  to 
meet  Senator  McMillan  and  Moore;  then  to  the  WTiite  House 
to  meet  President  Roosevelt;  and  back  to  the  Senate  for  a  con- 
ference with  Senator  McMillan,  Moore,  and  Colonel  Biddle,^ 
Engineer  Commissioner  of  the  District  of  Columbia. 

Here  the  leading  question  was  of  grades,  the  District  being 
interested  in  keeping  grades  down  to  save  expense;  and  Mr. 
Burnham  being  wilUng  to  place  the  station  low,  so  as  to  sub- 
ordinate it  to  the  Capitol,  but  at  the  same  time  having  to  look 
out  for  a  sufficient  height  to  accommodate  railroad  activities. 

February  24.  Was  going  on  the  5.30  p.m.  train  to  New  York 
to  attend  the  breakfast  to  Prince  Henry  of  Germany ;  but  at  1 
P.M.  heard  that  Mr.  J.  B.  Sherman  was  low;  went  to  his  house 
and  spent  the  night. 

Mr.  Sherman  died  the  next  day.  His  death  removed  one 
of  Mr.  Burnham's  earliest  supporters,  with  whom  he  had 
sustained  close  and  confidential  relations  both  as  son-in-law 
and  as  friend. 

On  March  16  Mr.  Burnham  brought  the  revised  station 
plans  to  Washington  and  went  over  them  with  Senator  Mc- 
Millan. That  evening  he,  in  company  with  Peirce  Anderson 
and  Charles  Moore,  went  to  Philadelphia  for  a  conference  with 
Mr.  Cassatt.  In  the  evening  every  conceivable  angle  of  the 
situation  was  talked  over  at  a  Bellevue  dinner  which  lasted 
until  well  into  the  morning.  The  next  day,  in  his  office  in  the 
Broad  Street  station,  Mr.  Cassatt  assembled  Mr.  Loree,  pres- 
ident of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio;  Mr.  Brown,  chief  engineer  of 
the  Pennsylvania  Railroad;  Messrs.  Burnham  and  Anderson; 

'  Colonel  John  Biddle,  U.S.  Corps  of  Engineers,  who  was  the  Engineer 
Commissioner  of  the  District  of  Columbia  from  1901  to  1907.  He  was  after- 
wards major-general  and  acting  chief  of  staff,  U.S.A. 


PRESIDENT  ANDREW  J.  CASSATT  177 

Colonel  Biddle,  representing  the  District  of  Columbia;  and 
Charles  Moore,  representing  Senator  McMillan.  Mr.  Loree 
opened  by  opposing  any  change  from  the  B.  &  0.  location  to 
the  Massachusetts  Avenue  site;  he  was  vigorous  and  sarcastic, 
and  was  very  much  in  earnest.  Then  Mr.  Cassatt  asked  for  the 
suggestions  from  Washington  as  to  any  changes  in  the  general 
scheme.  Each  suggestion  he  referred  to  Mr.  Brown,  and  if  the 
engineer  said  that  the  change  was  physically  possible,  he  or- 
dered it  made.  Dignified,  quiet,  accommodating,  seeing  always 
the  end  in  view,  Mr.  Cassatt  quickly  disposed  of  the  various 
matters.  Then  he  led  the  way  to  his  luncheon-room,  where  a 
long  table  was  spread  daily  for  the  accommodation  of  such  vice- 
presidents  as  might  be  in  the  city,  and  those  persons  whose 
business  might  be  expedited  by  the  informal  talk  about  a  well- 
spread  table.  His  simple,  agreeable  manners  and  a  certain 
quiet  affabihty  readily  won  his  guests.  He  seemed  farthest 
from  the  typical  brusque,  incisive,  unyielding  railroad  presi- 
dent; and  perhaps  his  greatness  lay  partly  in  the  fact  that  he 
had  not  only  imagination,  but  also  the  ability  to  gain  his  ends 
without  creating  antagonisms. 

From  this  luncheon  Burnham  and  Moore  hurried  ofT  to  the 
neighboring  office  of  Theodore  N.  Ely,  where  Charles  McKim 
was  waiting  to  have  a  conference  on  American  Academy  in 
Rome  matters,^  the  immediate  object  being  to  raise  funds  for 
pressing  necessities.  The  object  being  attained  by  contribu- 
tions of  one  thousand  dollars  by  Messrs.  Burnham,  McKim, 
and  Ely,  and  the  other  affairs  of  the  Academy  having  been  well 
discussed,  the  way  was  cleared  for  a  good  dinner. 

»  Mr.  McKim  was  the  president  of  the  Academj';  Mr.  Ely  was  vice- 
president;  Mr.  Burnham  was  a  director,  and  Mr.  Moore  was  the  secretary. 


178  WASHINGTON  PROBLEMS 

On  the  10th  of  April,  Burnham  was  in  Washington  as  one  of 
the  jurors  in  the  competition  to  secure  a  sculptor  and  architect 
for  the  memorial  to  General  Grant,  for  which  Congress  had 
appropriated  $250,000,  up  to  this  time  the  largest  amount  ever 
set  aside  by  the  Government  for  a  work  of  sculpture.  The 
other  jurors  were  Charles  McKim,  Augustus  Saint-Gaudens, 
and  Daniel  Chester  French. 

In  the  course  of  the  discussion  of  the  many  models  assembled 
in  the  State,  War,  and  Navy  Building,  Mr.  Burnham  said  to 
Saint-Gaudens,  "  I  have  been  impressed  with  your  treatment 
of  the  hands  in  the  standing  figure  of  Lincoln  in  Chicago." 
"Yes,"  replied  Saint-Gaudens,  "good  hands  will  often  redeem 
a  bad  figure,  and  bad  hands  will  kill  a  good  one." 

One  model  took  the  fancy  of  Saint-Gaudens  to  the  exclusion 
of  all  others:  on  the  right  a  cavalry  charge  in  the  round;  on  the 
left  as  a  balancing  group,  a  battery  coming  into  action.  In  the 
centre  on  a  high  pedestal,  an  equestrian  figure  of  Grant,  his 
horse  keenly  alive  to  the  battle,  but  he  himseK  coolly  observ- 
ing the  combat.  So  carried  away  was  Saint-Gaudens  with  this 
conception  that  he  xmhesitatingly  placed  it  first  and  argued 
the  matter  with  much  vehemence.  The  others  readily  fell  in 
with  this  suggestion.  When  it  was  found,  on  examination  of 
the  sealed  envelopes,  that  the  successful  man  was  the  young 
and  ahnost  unknowTi  Henry  Merwin  Shrady,  of  Elmsford, 
New  York,  the  jurors  advised  that  his  ability  be  tested  further 
by  having  him  develop  his  idea  in  a  larger  model,  in  competi- 
tion with  Henry  Niehaus,  who  had  won  second  place.  Later 
the  jurors  were  satisfied  of  Mr.  Shrady 's  ability  to  carry  out 
his  design  and  the  commission  was  awarded  to  him.  The  asso- 
ciated architect  was  Edward  P.  Casey. 


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THE  EXECUTIVE  OFFICES  179 

The  jury  urged  that  the  Grant  Memorial  be  located  on  the 
west  front  of  the  Capitol,  at  the  head  of  the  Mall,  according 
to  the  new  plan,  instead  of  south  of  the  WTiite  House  as  called 
for  in  the  programme  of  competition.  This  was  eventually  done 
by  Congress,  and  the  location  became  and  to  this  day  has  con- 
tinued to  be  a  bone  of  contention. 

Charles  McKim  telegraphed  on  April  17:  "President  heartily 
approves  both  temporary  and  permanent  office  propositions." 
At  this  time  McKim  was  being  consulted  by  President  and 
Mrs.  Roosevelt  in  regard  to  putting  the  White  House  in  order. 
Mrs.  Harrison,  when  mistress  of  the  Executive  Mansion  (then 
the  pretentious  appellation  of  the  building  that  started  the 
nineteenth  century  as  the  President's  House),  had  plans  for  its 
enlargement  prepared  in  the  ofTice  of  Public  Buildings  and 
Grounds.  These  plans,  presented  by  Colonel  Bingham  in  1900 
at  the  celebration  of  the  centennial  of  the  removal  of  the  seat 
of  government  to  the  District  of  Columbia,  met  ahnost  unan- 
imous opposition  because  they  involved  building  wings  inhar- 
monious in  themselves  and  destructive  of  the  integrity  of  the 
historic  building.' 

Burnham  advocated  using  the  house  for  the  executive  offices 
and  building  a  residence  for  the  President  on  the  hill  to  the 
west,  the  site  of  the  old  Naval  Observatory  now  used  by  the 
Public  Health  Service.  McKim  had  such  a  reverence  for  the 
White  House  as  "a  gentleman's  home  of  its  period,"  that  he 
favored  retaining  it  as  the  residence  of  the  President  and  the 
construction  of  temporajy  offices  at  the  end  of  the  west  terrace, 
to  be  occupied  until  such  time  as  Congress  should  provide  for 
permanent  offices  to  be  located  in  the  centre  of  Lafayette 
Square.  During  the  session  then  in  progress,  Congress  provided 


180  WASHINGTON  PROBLEMS 

appropriations  for  the  restoration  of  the  White  House  and  the 
construction  of  temporary  offices  in  accordance  with  the  Mc- 
Kim  idea.^ 
To  McKim's  telegram  Burnham  replied: 

My  dear  Charles:  Have  just  received  your  telegram,  and 
as  you  know  I  am  extremely  pleased.  Nothing  could  be  better. 
I  wish  you  would  have  the  Secretary  of  War  bring  about  an 
interview  between  myseK  and  the  President  on  the  same  sub- 
ject, because  I  have  something  to  say  regarding  this  matter 
that  I  do  not  care  to  send  through  you.  An  analysis  of  the  con- 
ditions can  be  so  stated  as  to  leave  no  doubt,  and  no  alterna- 
tive other  than  building  in  Lafayette  Square. 

On  April  30  McKim  wTote  from  New  York  this  characteris- 
tic letter: 

Dear  Daniel  :  Your  note  from  Annapolis  smells  of  the  Spring, 
and  your  picture  of  the  blooming  maidens  and  the  slender- 
waisted  midshipmen  makes  me  miserable  —  the  more  so  that 
I  am  unable  to  take  the  train  down  to  Annapolis,  with  the  in- 
exorable conditions  of  fate  and  the  office  staring  me  in  the  face ! 
I  look  forward  to  Mead's  return  two  weeks  hence  for  a  chance 
to  break  away  for  a  few  days,  but  until  then,  a  day  off  for  golf 
now  and  then,  to  keep  in  condition,  is  the  best  I  can  do. 

Whether  this  will  reach  you  or  not  is  doubtful,  but  I  send  it 
on  its  way,  to  let  you  know  how  much  I  valued  your  congratu- 
lations on  the  Railway  Station  here,^  a  work  unsought,  and 
which  came  as  a  complete  surprise.  They  should  have  given  it 
to  you,  and  I  fully  expected  that  they  would.  Just  after  the 

1  "The  Restoration  of  the  White  House,"  article  by  Charles  Moore  in  the 
Century  Magazine,  April,  1903.  Also  Senate  document  No.  197,  57th  Con- 
gress. 

2  McKim,  Mead  &  White  received  the  commission  to  build  the  Penn- 
sylvania station  in  New  York.  Mr.  Cassatt  telegraphed  Mr.  McKim  in 
Washington  to  meet  him  in  Philadelphia.  "I  supposed,"  said  McKim,  "he 
wanted  a  new  stoop  to  his  house;  instead  he  asked  us  to  design  the  New 
York  station." 


THE  FLA  TIRON  B  UILDING  1 8 1 

interview  Newhall  (with  whom  I  lunched)  told  me  that  they 
employed  a  New  York  mail  as  a  question  of  policy,  and  I  as- 
cribe our  appointment  solely  to  this  cause. 

P.S.  I  expect  to  be  in  Washington  on  Sunday  and  Monday, 
and  write  in  case  you  can  get  away  from  the  young  men  and 
maidens  of  Annapolis,  do  come  over. 

P.P.S.  The  only  other  building  higher  than  your  Fifth 
Avenue  &  23rd  Street  building  that  I  have  ever  heard  of  is  the 
Tower  of  Babel.'  They  are  adding  at  the  rate  of  about  a  story 
a  day,  and  there  are  four  more  stories,  they  say,  to  go. 

The  McMillan  bill,  embodying  the  change  in  the  location  of 
the  station  from  the  Mall  to  the  Massachusetts  Avenue  site, 
passed  the  Senate  on  May  15,  much  to  Mr.  Burnham's  relief 
and  satisfaction.  "The  design,"  he  wrote  to  Senator  McMillan, 
"has  constantly  grown  and  is  now  pretty  nearly  satisfactory." 

Congress  adjourned  for  the  summer  without  the  House 
taking  action  on  the  bill.  To  McKim,  Burnham  wrote,  on 
July  11: 

You  are  right  in  supposing  that  I  am  overjoyed  to  obtain 
the  extra  six  months  on  the  Washington  station.  It  was  not  in 
the  least  a  disappointment.  I  wrote  to  Senator  McMillan  as 
soon  as  I  heard,  telling  how  I  felt  about  it.  It  would  give  me 
very  great  pleasure  to  have  you  go  over  the  drawings.  They 
are  not  ver>^  voluminous,  but  they  would  interest  you  because 
the  logic  of  the  entire  conception,  and  also  of  its  separate  parts, 
is  shown  in  the  continuous  studies.  I  do  not  think  I  shall  feel 
any  more  willing  to  begin  the  work  a  year  from  now  than  I  am 
at  the  present  time.  I  assure  you  the  national  character  of  it 
gives  me  a  constant  "fit  of  ague."  I  will  see  you  as  soon  as  I 
can.  It  may  be  in  a  few  days  or  a  few  weeks. 

1  The  Flaliron  Building,  the  first  of  New  York's  sky-scrapers,  and  for  a 
time  the  tallest  building  in  the  world.  Mr.  McKim's  office  at  160  Fifth 
Avenue  was  so  located  that  his  windows  commanded  a  view  of  the  work. 


182  WASHINGTON  PROBLEMS 

Mr.  Burnham  was  now  engaged  on  an  undertaking  so  large 
and  of  so  permanent  a  nature  as  to  call  out  the  very  best  that 
was  in  him.  He  felt  keenly  that  he  was  doing  service  on  behalf 
of  the  Nation,  and  that  there  should  be  no  compromises  for 
expediency's  sake.  Mr.  McKim,  too,  had  been  called  into 
national  service  not  only  in  the  matter  of  the  restoration  of 
the  WTiite  House,  but  also,  at  the  instance  of  Secretary  Root, 
in  planning  the  War  College  and  Engineers'  School  of  AppUca- 
tion.  Mr.  Burnham  had  been  commissioned  to  design  the 
station  before  he  became  a  member  of  the  Senate  Park  Com- 
mission; but  the  work  took  on  a  new  importance  by  reason  of 
the  Commission's  plan.  Mr.  McKim  came  into  Government 
service  by  reason  of  his  commission  work  and  his  personal  ac- 
quaintance with  President  and  JVIrs.  Roosevelt  and  Secretary 
Root. 

In  June  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Burnham  enjoyed  a  few  days  at 
Eagle  Nest,  near  Oregon,  lUinois,  with  the  Lords  and  Atken 
Burnet,  all  of  whom  were  guests  of  the  Grovers,  Lowdens,  and 
Clarksons,  with  Wallace  Hiclonan's  four-in-hand  as  vehicle  of 
passage  and  pleasure.  On  the  26th,  however,  Mr.  Burnham  was 
in  New  Orleans  discussing  with  J.  W.  Castle  a  building  for  the 
Southern  Trust  Company. 

Cleveland  having  taken  up  the  matter  of  creating  a  civic 
centre,  the  Mayor  and  the  Governor  of  Ohio  appointed  as  a 
plan  commission  Mr.  Burnham,  John  Carrere,  and  Arnold 
Brunner.  Mr.  Burnham  had  already  been  engaged  by  the  rail- 
roads to  plan  a  union  station  on  the  Lake  Front  to  be  built 
whenever  the  city  and  the  roads  should  reach  an  agreement  as 
to  property  rights;  and  Mr.  Brunner  had  won  the  competition 
for  the  Federal  Building,  which  was  to  form  an  clement  in  the 


THE  FULLER  (fLATIRON)  BUILDING,  NEW  YORK 

From  a  drawing  by  Jules  Guerin 


THE  FIELD  MUSEUM  183 

civic  centre.  The  Commission  met  on  July  15,  1902,  at  Cleve- 
land and  organized  by  the  election  of  Burnham  as  chairman 
and  Brunner  as  secretary;  the  commissioners  were  to  serve  two 
years  with  a  salary  of  five  thousand  dollars  each.  After  meet- 
ing representatives  of  the  Chamber  of  Commerce,  the  archi- 
tects and  various  pubhc  bodies,  for  the  purpose  of  securing 
data,  the  Commission  departed  to  study  the  problem.' 

Towards  the  end  of  July  Mr.  Burnham  snatched  three  days 
to  sail  on  the  Manitou  for  Charlevoix,  where  he  and  Mrs. 
Burnham  visited  E.  C.  Waller  and  family.  The  time  was  occu- 
pied in  sailing  in  the  Squaw  and  playing  golf.  The  first  week  in 
August  was  spent  in  conference  with  Flenry  G.  Foreman,  presi- 
dent of  the  South  Park  Commissioners,  Mr.  Higginbotham, 
Mr.  Dibble,  and  the  representatives  of  Marshall  Field,  on 
the  matter  of  the  location  of  the  Field  Museum.  On  the  4th 
Mr.  Jones,  Mr.  Field's  private  secretary,  turned  over  to  Mr. 
Foreman  Mr.  Field's  letter  accepting  for  the  museum  a  location 
either  in  Grant  Park  or  on  the  Lake  Front;  and  on  the  6th 
"H.  Dibble  came  over  and  we  settled  on  the  plan  of  the  Field 
Museum."  On  the  last  day  of  the  month  an  order  came  from 
Mr.  Field  for  a  warehouse. 

In  the  early  hours  of  August  11  Senator  McMillan  died 
suddenly  at  his  summer  home,  "Eagle  Head,"  at  Manches- 
ter, Massachusetts.  In  an  instant  the  originator  and  chief  sup- 
porter in  Congress  of  the  Park  Commission  was  taken  away. 
Henceforth  the  Plan  of  1901  would  have  to  stand  on  its  own 
intrinsic  merits  without  an  avowed  supporter  in  the  Senate  and 


•  The  Board  of  Supervision  of  Public  Buildings  and  Grounds  in  the  City 
of  Cleveland,  generally  known  as  the  Group  Plan  Commission,  was  ap- 
pointed by  Governor  Nash  on  June  20,  1902. 


184  THE  CLEVELAND  PLAN 

with  ]Mr.  Cannon,  the  chairman  of  the  House  Committee  on 
Appropriations,  as  its  determined  and  resourceful  enemy. 
Mr.  Cannon  always  took  deUght  in  thwarting  what  he  con- 
sidered raids  on  the  national  treasury.  His  special  grievance 
against  the  Park  Commission  was  that  it  was  created  by  the 
Senate  alone,  without  the  consent  of  the  House,  and  he  was 
fond  of  referring  to  it  as  an  illegitimate  child.  Perhaps  the  best 
explanation  of  Mr.  Cannon's  attitude  is  to  be  found  in  a  re- 
mark he  made  some  years  later  to  Colonel  William  \V.  Harts, 
the  executive  officer  of  the  Lincoln  Memorial  Commission: 
"The  trouble  with  you  fellows  is  that  you  begin  your  kinder- 
garten too  late! "  When  once  Mr.  Cannon  was  convinced  as 
to  the  fineness  and  logic  of  a  project,  he  was  ready  to  fight 
for  it. 

Mr.  Burnham  telegraphed  to  Charles  Moore: 

My  dear  Charles:  The  sad  news  of  Senator  McMillan's 
death  was  in  the  morning  papers.  I  am  thinking  of  you.  From 
my  own  attachment  to  him  on  a  slight  acquaintance,  it  is  plain 
that  yours  must  be  great,  and  I  deeply  feel  for  you.  Write  me 
when  you  can,  dear  Charles,  and  be  sure  of  lasting  sympathy 
in  this  and  all  other  things  that  may  touch  you. 

Affectionately 

D.  H.  Burnham 

Mr.  Burnham  went  over  to  Detroit  on  the  14th,  the  day  be- 
fore the  McMillan  funeral,  and  spent  the  day  with  Charles 
Moore,  planning  for  the  future.  At  the  request  of  the  McMil- 
lan family,  Moore  was  to  remain  as  clerk  of  the  Senate  District 
Committee  until  the  railway  legislation  should  be  completed,  so 
as  to  finish  the  particular  task  which  the  Senator  had  in  hand. 

On  October  27  Mr.  Burnham  wrote  to  Moore  that  he  had 
found  Mr.  Cassatt  only  too  willing  to  build  on  the  Massachu- 


A  PLAN  OF  CHICAGO  SUGGESTED  185 

setts  Avenue  site.  The  chairman  of  the  House  Committee  on 
the  District  of  Columbia,  Mr.  Babcock,  advised  that  the  bill  be 
passed  by  the  House  for  the  C  Street  site,  leaving  the  question 
of  the  exact  location  to  be  settled  in  conference.  This  would 
obviate  the  difTiculties  arising  from  the  fact  that  Mr.  Cannon, 
being  opposed  to  the  plaza,  could  and  probably  would  block 
consideration  of  a  bill  which  provided  for  the  Massachusetts 
Avenue  site.  Mr.  Burnham  explained  the  matter  to  Secretary 
Root,  who  agreed  with  Mr.  Babcock.^ 

Burnham  and  Anderson  were  in  Washington  on  October  23, 
where  they  had  two  interviews  with  Secretary  Root,  and  then 
with  Glenn  Brown  they  went  to  Rock  Creek  Cemetery  to 
see  again  the  Saint-Gaudens  sculpture,  with  the  architectural 
setting  designed  by  Stanford  WTiite,  as  a  memorial  to  Mrs. 
Henry  Adams. 

On  August  17  Mr.  Burnham  was  again  in  Cleveland  with  his 
colleagues  for  meetings  with  Mayor  Johnson  and  the  Common 
Council  relative  to  the  civic  centre.  On  September  3  Charles 
Norton,  Walter  Fisher,  and  Frederick  Delano  called  to  ask  him 
to  speak  before  the  Merchants'  Club  on  the  Washington  plan, 
evidently  with  the  ulterior  motive  of  getting  Burnham  to  do 
some  such  work  for  Chicago.  On  September  14,  while  on  the 
train  bound  for  Southbridge  to  visit  his  daughter.  President 
Bancroft,  of  the  Union  League  Club  of  Chicago,  discussed  with 
him  the  matter  of  a  new  club  building  and  they  decided  to 
put  the  project  on  its  feet. 

John  Wanamaker  appeared  in  Chicago  on  September  23; 
and  after  a  breakfast  at  the  club  and  a  visit  to  the  Art  Institute 

•  Representative  J.  W.  Babcock,  of  Wisconsin,  who  handled  the  railroad 
bills  in  the  House  with  tact  and  skill. 


186  THE  CLEVELAND  PLAN 

he  and  Mr.  Burnham,  accompanied  by  Ernest  Graham,  took 
the  train  for  Philadelphia;  and  the  next  day  Mr.  Wanamaker 
decided  to  build  his  Philadelphia  store  in  granite  and  urged 
haste  in  the  preparation  of  plans. 

On  September  26  Burnham  met  the  McKinley  Memorial 
Committee  in  Buffalo,  to  advise  them  as  to  the  site  of  the 
monument  to  be  erected  to  President  McKinley.  He  formu- 
lated his  suggestions,  and  sent  copies  to  McKim  and  Saint- 
Gaudens,  asking  them  to  reply  directly  to  George  E.  Mat- 
thews, secretary  of  the  committee.  McKim  wTote  on  Novem- 
ber 10  to  Matthews  that  after  a  careful  examination  of  the 
plans  and  photographs  of  Niagara  Square,  Buffalo,  together 
with  Mr.  Burnham's  reports  and  suggestions  regarding  the 
treatment  of  the  proposed  Mclunley  memorial  monument,  to 
be  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  square,  he  had  been  so  much  im- 
pressed by  IVIr.  Burnham's  views  that  he  had  no  additional 
suggestions  to  offer.  "Mr.  Burnham  has  given  the  subject 
evidently  careful  study,  and  I  should  place  imphcit  reUance  in 
his  judgment  in  this  matter." 

The  Diary  records : 

October  22.  Lunched  with  Wallace,  general  manager  of  the 
I.C.R.R.,  Foster,  superintendent  of  the  South  Parks,  and  John 
Olmsted  ^  over  the  Lake  Front  scheme ;  then  went  on  foot  to  in- 
spect Grant  Park. 

October  24.  Breakfasted  with  the  Commercial  Clubs  of 
Chicago  and  Cincinnati  at  the  Planters  Hotel,  St.  Louis; 

'  John  Charles  Olmsted,  son  and  partner  of  Frederick  Law  Olmsted,  and 
half-brother  and  partner  of  Frederick  Law  Olmsted,  Jr.  The  firm  designed 
the  park  system  of  Boston,  Essex  County,  New  Jersey;  Chicago  (South 
Parks),  BufTalo,  Rochester,  Hartford,  Louisville,  Milwaukee,  Seattle, 
Spokane;  and  the  grounds  of  the  expositions  at  Chicago,  Seattle,  Portland, 
Oregon;  and  Winnipeg.  John  Olmsted  died  February  24,  1920. 


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PEIRCE  ANDERSON 


THE  WANAMAKER  STORES  187 

lunched  at  the  Fair  Grounds  with  Director  of  Works  Taylor. 
Dined  at  the  St.  Louis  Club  as  guest  of  the  Fair  olTicials  and 
the  St.  Louis  Commercial  Club. 

October  27.  Judge  Grosscup,  John  M.  Clark,  and  Henry 
Foreman  lunched  with  me  regarding  the  Lake  Front. 

October  28.  Marshall  Field  called  and  looked  at  the  Lake 
Front  sketches  with  Henry  Dibble. 

October  29.  Saint-Gaudens,  Stanford  White,  John  M.  Clark, 
Commissioners  Best,  Walton,  and  Foreman  in  the  office  until 
noon  regarding  the  placing  of  the  Lincohi  statue  on  the  Lake 
Front. ^  Lunched  at  the  Chicago  Club  with  Deering  and  spent 
the  afternoon  with  the  above  committee  and  artists  in  South 
Park.  Dined  at  Club  with  John  M.  Clark,  Saint-Gaudens, 
Judge  Grosscup,  and  Stanford  WTiite,  and  rode  home  in 
Charles  Deering's  automobile. 

November  9.  D.  H.  B.,  E.  R.  Graham,  and  Peirce  Anderson 
spent  the  day  at  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad  offices;  lunched 
with  President  Cassatt.  The  latter  asked  again  our  terms;  told 
him  our  price  was  five  per  cent  on  cost  of  building  and  yard, 
and  in  addition  the  travelling  expenses  of  ourselves  and  our 
men.  He  said  that  was  his  understanding.  We  to  design  build- 
ings for  power-plant  and  express  and  mail  block,  as  well  as  all 
work  south  of  H  Street. 

November  17.  D.  H.B.,  Ernest  Graham,  and  Peirce  Anderson 
went  to  Wanamaker's  construction  department  office.  Mr. 
Wanamaker  accepted  the  exterior  (Florentine  style)  with  the 
exception  of  proposed  Chestnut  Street  doorway,  which  Burn- 
ham  was  to  change.  He  also  accepted  the  plan  xsdth  some  slight 
changes  around  rear  of  carriage  entrance,  said  changes  to  be 
made  that  night. 

November  18.  Bumham,  Graham,  Anderson,  Duell,  Had- 
dock, and  Hough  all  day  at  Wanamaker's.  W.  came  in  before 
lunch  and  accepted  the  work,  elevation,  and  plans  of  lower 
part,  except  as  to  sections  showing  the  sub-basement,  base- 
ment, and  basement  "entresol"  heights.  Burnham  and  Gra- 

*  The  seated  figure  of  Lincoln  for  which  Mr.  Crerar  left  a  bequest  of 
$50,000. 


188  THE  CLEVELAND  PLAN 

ham  lunched  with  Wanamaker  in  his  private  lunch-room. 
Young  Wanamaker  joined  them  at  lunch.  No  conversation 
occurred  at  lunch  regarding  details  of  the  building.  Young 
Wanamaker  said  to  his  father:  "You  do  the  merchandising  and 
I  will  do  the  building;  othen\'ise  I  want  nothing  to  do  with  it." 
This  was  the  only  reference  made  to  the  work  in  his  presence. 
In  the  afternoon,  the  sections  of  basement  were  made,  sub- 
mitted to  Mr  .Wanamaker  by  Graham  and  approved  of  by  W. 
December 2"^.  D.  H.  B.  at  home  all  day;  only  went  out  for 
half  an  hour  with  daughter  Margaret  to  buy  some  flowers. 
Reception  of  Mrs.  B,  and  Margaret,  occasion  of  M.'s  "  coming 
out"  —  375  people  called. 


CHAPTER  XIII 

THE  WEST  POINT  PLAN 

1902-1903 

ELIHU  ROOT,  when  Secretary  of  War  in  President 
Roosevelt's  Cabinet,  invited  Mr.  Burnham  to  enter 
a  competition  for  the  commission  to  design  the  new 
buildings  at  the  United  States  Military  Academy  at  West 
Point.  Secretary  Root  had  been  and  is  an  uncompromising 
promoter  of  the  Washington  Plan;  and  yet  Mr.  Burnham  felt 
constrained  to  decline  the  invitation.  In  a  letter  to  Mr.  Root, 
dated  October  29,  1902,  he  stated  his  objections  to  the  pro- 
gramme of  competitions  as,  fu-st,  because  the  selected  architect 
is  not  to  control  his  own  work;  and,  secondly,  because  the  fees 
proposed  are  much  below  those  paid  by  private  clients. 

I  do  not  see  how  an  architect  who  cares  for  his  reputation 
[he  wrote]  can  allow  himself  to  be  separated  from  the  carrying- 
out  of  his  designs;  and  in  justice  to  his  regular  clients  he  could 
not  do  the  work  for  less  than  is  invariably  paid  by  them.  Plans, 
details,  and  the  absolutely  necessary  supervision  which  an 
architect  must  give  in  any  case  are  charged  for  at  the  rate  of 
five  per  cent  on  the  cost.  I  see  nothing  in  the  act  which  pre- 
cludes the  payment  to  the  successful  man  of  this  regular  fee, 
if  the  Department  so  determines.  The  proposed  payment  of 
§5000  per  annum  for  supervision  is  ample. 

To  this  letter  Secretary  Root  made  answer: 

I  enclose  a  copy  of  the  letter  recently  sent  by  me  to  Colonel 
Mills,  to  enable  him  to  answer  some  questions  put  by  Carrere 
&  Hastings  regarding  the  West  Point  plans.  It  may  clear 
away  some  of  the  difficulties  which  you  see  in  the  way.  The 


190  THE  WEST  POINT  PLAN 

statute  under  which  we  are  proceeding  is  very  curiously  framed, 
as  statutes  which  are  altered  in  committee  are  apt  to  be.  The 
limitations  on  the  employment  of  architects  had  their  origin 
in  a  feeling  on  the  part  of  Congress  that  the  architect  at  the 
Naval  Academy  was  being  paid  too  much.  There  was  no  doubt 
that  Congress  intended  to  prevent  the  work  being  done  on  the 
five  per  cent  basis.  They  sought  to  accomplish  this  by  cutting 
the  process  of  improvement  into  two  perfectly  distinct  parts; 
first,  the  making  of  plans  which  was  to  be  completed  before  any 
work  was  done,  and,  second,  the  work  of  construction,  includ- 
ing, of  course,  all  superintendence,  which  was  not  to  begin 
until  the  plans  were  complete,  and  in  relation  to  which  no  ar- 
chitects were  to  be  paid  anything  except  $5000  a  year  for  the 
consulting  architect. 

We  are  now  engaged  in  the  effort  to  get  the  best  possible 
plan.  The  competition  now  proposed  in  the  submission  of  gen- 
eral preliminary  plans  is  really  a  way  of  selecting  the  architect 
who  shall  make  the  complete  plan. 

On  the  understanding  contained  in  the  letter  from  Secretary 
Root,  Mr.  Bumham  decided  to  enter  the  competition.  The 
other  competitors  were  Cope  &  Stewartson,  Philadelphia; 
Hines  &  La  Farge,  Carrere  &  Hastings,  Charles  C.  Haight, 
New  York;  Peabody  &  Stearns,  Cram,  Goodhue  &  Ferguson, 
Boston;  and  Fames  &  Young,  St.  Louis.  McKim,  Mead  & 
White  accepted  the  invitation,  but  did  not  compete,  possibly  be- 
cause, as  stated  in  a  letter  from  Stanford  White  to  Burnham, 
dated  November  24,  1902,  "a  certain  newspaper  critic  with 
intense  prejudices  and  predilections  appears  to  be  the  guiding 
spirit  in  the  affair,  and  this  critic  is  in  favor  of,  and  would  im- 
press upon  the  competitors,  the  adoption  of  the  style  of  the 
Library  and  the  surrounding  Gothic  buildings,  or  the  battle- 
mented  buildings  of  Richard  Hunt,  in  order  that  harmony  ot 
style  shall  prevail.  Of  course  it  goes  without  saying  that  har- 


EDWARD  H.  BENNETT  191 

mony  should  prevail;  but  that  an  architect  should  feel  on  enter- 
ing the  competition  that  he  would  suffer  if  he  made  his  build- 
ings in  harmony  with  the  Cullum  Memorial  and  Officers'  Mess 
and  Quarters,  or  the  West  Point  Battle  Monument,  or  his  own 
ideas,  would,  it  seems  to  me,  make  any  architect  of  independ- 
ence of  thought  withdraw  from  the  competition." 

After  mature  reflection  Mr.  Burnham  decided  upon  a  plan  of 
action  quite  in  keeping  with  all  his  pubhc  work.  He  would 
make  a  deliberate  study  of  the  entire  problem  and  present 
what  seemed  to  him  the  ideal  solution,  regardless  of  the  ques- 
tion of  winning  the  competition.  In  working  out  his  ideas  he 
needed  a  young  man  who  could  catch  his  spirit  and  fix  on  paper 
his  conclusions.  It  happened  that  Edward  H.  Bennett,  who  had 
been  a  friend  of  Peirce  Anderson  at  the  Ecole  des  Beaux  Arts, 
was  then  working  in  George  B.  Post's  office  in  New  York.  Ben- 
nett was  invited  to  accompany  Mr.  Burnham  to  West  Point. 

The  visit  was  made  on  a  glorious  spring  day  in  1903,  and  on 
the  way  up  from  the  ferry,  Burnham  called  attention  to  the 
stately  cedars,  which,  he  said,  were  characteristic  of  the  place 
and  should  be  considered  in  the  design.  Together  they  climbed 
the  hills  and  went  from  place  to  place  seeking  the  natural  axis 
of  the  site.  On  that  the  plan  was  based.  While  waiting  for  the 
return  train  Burnham  described  in  detail  one  of  the  Piranesi 
drawings,  which  he  believed  was  inspired  by  Gray's  "Elegy." 
The  day  was  a  fascinating  one  for  Bennett  and  made  him  de- 
sire to  work  with  Burnham.  The  connection  then  formed  lasted 
throughout  Mr.  BurnJiam's  life. 

Of  the  Burnham  plan  Stanford  WTiite  wTote,  on  May  8, 1903 : 

I  am  much  pleased  to  hear  that  your  scheme  contemplates 
the  removal  of  the  old  buildings,  and  even  the  moving  of  Cul- 


192  THE  WEST  POINT  PLAN 

lum  Hall.  I  think  we  all  ought  to  impress  on  the  Secretary  of 
War  that,  whatever  is  done,  there  should  be  one  great  whole 
concentric  scheme;  and  I  intend  WTiting  them  that  either  the 
CuUum  Memorial  and  its  group  should  be  torn  down  and  re- 
moved, or  that  the  old  Gothic  buildings  should  be  torn  down 
and  removed,  as  in  no  other  way  can  a  great  scheme  be  adopted 
for  the  Campus.  Please,  you  do  this  too,  because,  if  the  style  is 
not  to  be  classic,  I  think,  for  the  sake  of  the  whole  scheme,  the 
Cullum  Memorial  and  its  adjacent  buildings  should  be  taken 
away. 

Won't  you  also  say  that,  in  your  opinion,  the  OfTicers'  Mess 
has  been  finished  in  a  very  meagre  way,  and  not  in  accord, 
either  in  material  or  treatment,  with  the  dignity  of  the  Cullum 
Memorial,  and  that  you  recommend  that  if  the  Cullum  Me- 
morial be  retained,  the  Officers'  Quarters  to  be  built  on  the 
other  side  be  treated  in  accord  with  the  Cullum  Memorial,  and 
that  the  Officers'  Mess  be  faced  with  granite  to  make  it  balance 
with  the  Officers'  Quarters? 

The  more  Burnham  studied  the  situation  the  more  con- 
vinced he  became  that  compromises  were  impossible  if  the 
Military  Academy  should  be  made  consistent  in  appearance. 
He  therefore  went  on  with  the  work  to  satisfy  himself  rather 
than  the  jury  or  the  terms  of  the  programme.  His  report 
follows : 

A  study  of  the  ground  on  which  the  United  States  Military 
Academy  is  located,  leads  to  the  belief  that  there  is  one  main 
axis  superior  to  all  others  for  a  monumental  treatment  of  this 
post,  ^^^len  one  stands  on  the  balcony  of  the  Observatory^ 
from  which  is  obtained  a  broad  view  of  the  Government  do- 
main and  the  surrounding  country,  this  belief  is  confirmed,  for 
this  axis  is  the  natural  one  in  the  landscape.  It  begins  on  the 
east  side  of  the  river,  and,  passing  across  the  water,  bisects  the 
plateau  which  forms  the  parade  ground,  and  then  passes  up- 
ward toward  the  mountains  of  the  background  tlirough  a  dip 
between  the  foothills  that  lie  at  their  feet. 


FOLLOWING  NATURE'S  LEAD  193' 

It  has  seemed  \sTong  to  neglect  the  course  to  be  pursued 
when  Nature  herself  has  so  plainly  indicated  it.  It  therefore 
becomes  a  question  whether  one  should  adopt  any  compromise 
offering  an  inferior  solution  of  the  problem;  and  it  would  be  a 
compromise  to  attempt  to  retain  many  of  the  buildings  aheady 
erected,  when  an  ideal  design  is  plainly  possible  for  both  the 
practical  and  beautiful  sides  of  the  problem.  And  because  this 
work  is  to  be  for  all  time,  we  have,  after  much  hesitation,  come 
to  the  conclusion  that  we  should  present  that  scheme  which 
will  ultimately  bring  about  the  noblest  results,  rather  than  one 
which  at  best  must  ever  be  unequal  to  it.  The  main  reason  for 
this  choice  Ues  in  a  conviction  that  order  and  system  of  a  high 
quality  surrounding  a  young  soldier  will  strengthen  within  him 
a  respect  for  law,  so  far  as  environment  can  affect  him. 

The  design  has  three  principal  divisions: 

First:  The  centre  one,  having  to  do  most  directly  with  the 
life  and  training  of  the  cadets  of  the  United  States  Army. 

Second:  That  at  the  left,  having  to  do  with  the  life  of  the 
ofTicers  on  duty  and  with  visitors,  —  in  short,  with  the  social 
side  of  the  post. 

Third :  That  part  at  the  right,  which  has  to  do  with  enlisted 
men,  the  commissary,  and  the  more  essentially  working  parts 
of  the  post. 

These  three  divisions  have  been  made  in  order  that  the  men 
of  each  section  may,  as  far  as  possible,  carry  on  their  distinctive 
functions  without  interfering  with  the  necessary  activities  of 
others  whose  duties  do  not  commingle. 

These  three  divisions  obviate  to  a  great  degree  the  necessity 
for  using  the  parade  ground  and  the  avenues  in  front  of  the 
academy  and  barracks  for  carrying  suppUes  and  for  passing 
troops  of  men.  For  the  same  reason,  the  Cavalry  and  Artillery 
ground  has  been  placed  in  the  plain  on  the  northwest,  conven- 
iently near  this  section  of  the  scheme. 

The  centre  part  is  on  a  grand  axis  running  northeast  and 
southwest;  the  cadet  barracks  on  three  sides  of  a  square,  in 
the  centre  of  which  is  the  Academic  building.  The  extension 
of  the  cadet  barracks  is  to  be  used  on  one  side  for  the  Y.IM.C.A. 


194  THE  WEST  POINT  PLAN 

and  the  reception  room,  with  the  museum  and  lilDrary  on  the 
other.  These  extensions  complete  the  architectural  treatment 
of  the  southwest  end  of  the  parade  ground.  The  cadet  court- 
yard is  ample  for  all  formations  of  the  corps,  and  equally  ac- 
cessible to  all  the  barracks.  Behind  the  barracks  is  a  planta- 
tion bordering  on  the  drive  that  passes  back  of  it.  The  cadet 
court  is  dominated  by  the  Commandant's  headquarters  and 
those  of  the  ofTicer-of-the-day,  which  are  in  the  southeast  part 
of  the  Academic  building. 

From  the  cadet  court,  through  a  broad  arch,  the  way  opens 
into  an  amphitheatre  of  a  size  that  can  easily  be  canopied,  and 
where  can  be  held  large  formal  or  informal  gatherings  of  the 
cadets,  of  members  of  the  Army  or  of  mixed  companies  of 
military  men  and  civilians.  Tliis  amphitheatre  forms  a  sort  of 
lower  court  to  the  sacred  terrace  above,  on  which  terrace  stands 
the  House  of  God,  properly  placed  there  as  the  crowning  fea- 
ture of  the  grand  design,  high  above  all  other  buildings,  but 
kept  in  strict  relationship  with  them  and  upon  the  main  axis. 
This  church  is  reached  by  broad  stairs  and  by  a  walk,  furnish- 
ing easy  access  from  the  hotel  and  ofTicers'  town.  From  the 
cadet  court  under  an  archway  and  through  a  wooded  alley, 
access  to  the  mess  hall  is  had.  A  similar  passage  is  opened  to 
the  important  cadet  buildings  on  the  right,  the  gymnasium,  the 
riding  hall  and  the  store. 

The  administration  buildings  and  the  g^innasium  complete 
the  northwest  and  southwest  corners  of  the  framing  of  the 
parade  ground,  and  they  are  connected  with  the  main  buildings 
by  covered  porticos.  Behind  each  is  a  large  elliptical  fore- 
court. The  two  courts  are  arranged  so  that  the  finest  distant 
views  over  the  river  are  obtained  from  them. 

Commanding  the  superb  view  of  the  Hudson  River,  a  theatre 
has  been  arranged  on  the  northwest  slope;  this  is  adapted  to 
music,  drama,  and  athletics,  and  its  situation  is  like  that  of  the 
theatre  of  Dionysius  under  the  Acropolis  at  Athens.  It  is  this 
view,  across  the  theatre,  that  greets  the  visitor  at  the  main 
entrance  on  passing  tlirough  the  triumphal  arch  of  the  fore- 
court, at  the  southwest  corner  of  the  parade  ground. 


Copyriijlit,  i:Ml.i,  ),;{  Anuriran  Arrlitlfrirt  to. 

DESIGN  FOR  IMPROVEMENTS  AT  THE  UNITED  STATES  MILITARY  ACADEMY 

WEST  POINT 


ATTACKING  THE  PROBLEM  195 

It  will  be  remarked  that  the  orientation  of  this  axis  north- 
east and  southwest  presents  great  sanitary  advantages;  also, 
that  the  mess  hall  and  hospital  are  retained,  CuUum  Hall  being 
lowered  to  a  terrace  below  its  present  position. 

The  officers'  and  visitors'  part  is  naturally  sub-divided  into 
two  axes:  that  of  the  arrival  and  the  common  social  life  of 
officers  and  visitors,  and  that  of  the  more  intimate  and  ex- 
clusive life  of  the  post.  Passing  through  the  natural  landing 
place,  an  axis  traverses  successive  terraces  until  the  hotel  is 
reached.  The  visitor  is  thus  greeted  at  once  on  his  arrival,  and 
commands,  during  his  approach,  the  view  of  the  river;  and 
from  the  hotel  terrace,  a  view  of  the  parade  ground.  Grouped 
around  this  axis  on  terraces  are  the  houses  of  those  officers 
whose  interests  place  them  in  relation  with  the  outside  world. 

Here  is  the  heart  of  the  officers'  home;  it  is  placed  in  touch 
with  the  park  land  of  the  southeast  and  follows  in  successive 
terraces  and  gardens  the  natural  crest  of  the  ground.  Advan- 
tage is  taken  of  the  overflow  of  the  reservoir  to  form  a  cascade 
and  lake  in  the  centre  of  this  composition. 

The  soldiers'  town  we  have  grouped  around  one  court.  The 
band-practice  building  and  the  commissary  are  directly  below. 
Facing  the  recreation  ground  is  the  assembly  hall  for  enlisted 
men.  The  guard-house  is  on  the  axis  of  the  court  commanding 
the  approach  from  north  dock  and  also  a  new  freight  station, 
the  source  of  supplies.  To  the  northwest,  in  proximity  to  cav- 
ahy  and  artillery  barracks,  are  the  stables,  within  easy  reach 
of  riding-hall  and  cavalry  and  artillery. 

As  a  frieze,  the  proposed  scheme  skirts  the  Point.  In  the 
centre  is  the  Academy  proper,  to  the  south  its  command  and 
instruction,  to  the  north  its  service,  connected  the  one  by  the 
post-headquarters  and  the  other  by  the  athletic  group. 

Thus,  while  seeking  an  ideal  working  scheme,  the  aim  has 
been  to  preserve  and  enhance  the  natural  beauties  of  the  site 
(in  our  estimation  the  real  basis  of  historic  associations),  no- 
where obtruding  the  architectural  to  the  detriment  of  the 
natural.  We  have  chosen  a  background  of  hills  as  a  frame  for 
the  composition. 


196  THE  WEST  POINT  PLAN 

Built  largely  of  native  stone,  relieved  in  effect  by  smaller 
monuments  of  marble,  the  new  Academy  is  in  harmony  with 
Nature,  and  is  in  itself  a  perfect  organization. 

The  competition  was  won  by  Cram,  Goodhue  &  Ferguson, 
who  chose  to  adopt  Gothic  instead  of  classic  precedents.  The 
judges  who  made  the  award  were  Lieutenant-General  J.  M. 
Schofield,  Colonel  A.  L.  Mills,  George  B.  Post,  Walter  Cook, 
and  Cass  Gilbert.  The  architect  members  of  the  jury  (selected 
by  the  competitors)  were  unanimous  in  their  opinion,  "believ- 
ing that  the  character  of  the  design  is  such  that  it  cannot  only 
be  constructed  with  economy,  but  that  it  will  harmonize  with 
the  character  of  the  landscape,  and  that  it  can  be  readily  devel- 
oped into  a  satisfactory  and  complete  plan."  The  development 
into  a  satisfactory  and  complete  plan  is  still  in  the  dim  future. 
Indeed,  the  very  beauty  of  the  new  chapel  emphasizes  the  in- 
congruity of  the  other  elements  in  the  composition. 


CHAPTER  XIV 

THE   WASHINGTON   STATION   AND  THE   CLEVELAND 

GROUP  PLAN 

1903 

CONGRESS  completed  the  legislation  for  the  Wash- 
ington railway  terminals  in  February,  1903,  accord- 
ing to  the  plans  of  the  Senate  Park  Commission  in 
every  particular.  Representative  Cannon  made  a  gallant  fight 
on  the  floor  of  the  House  for  the  elimination  of  the  plaza ;  but 
on  being  beaten  yielded  with  good  grace,  and  probably  with 
secret  satisfaction. 

On  February  26  McKim  wrote  congratulating  Burnham  on 
the  passage  of  the  legislation  for  the  station,  which  "will  make 
Mr.  Cassatt  happy  as  well,  and  our  work  at  this  end  of  the  line 
a  little  easier."  He  urged  Burnham  to  come  in  to  see  the  New 
York  terminal  plans,  and  "if  you  have  an  extra  set  of  prints  of 
the  Washington  station,  do  let  us  have  a  look  at  them."  To 
this  cordial  letter  Burnham  replied  immediately  that  he  would 
let  McKim  know  the  next  time  he  was  to  be  in  New  York,  so 
that  they  might  get  a  day  together: 

I  very  much  wish  to  have  you  go  over  the  Washington  sta- 
tion with  me,  and  I  also  very  much  desire  to  see  your  New 
York  work.  The  year  and  a  half  of  constant  work  on  the 
Massachusetts  Avenue  site  have  been  of  great  benefit.  I  am 
only  sorry  I  cannot  have  another  year.  As  we  proceed  with  it 
problems  grow  in  number,  though  they  afTect  smafler  things, 
the  larger  elements  being  pretty  well  settled  by  this  time.  .  .  . 

I  wish  you  would  send  me  what  you  can  illustrating  the  War 


198  THE  WASHINGTON  STATION 

College.  I  have  been  deeply  interested  in  it  and  have  not  seen 
a  single  thing  except  the  newspaper  paragraphs.  I  supposed  of 
course  you  would  let  me  know  how  the  thing  was  going  ahead, 
because  of  my  deep  s>Tnpathy  for  you  in  everything  you  do. 

On  March  9  McKim  lunched  with  Burnham  in  New  York 
and  together  they  went  over  the  plans  for  the  Washington  sta- 
tion. For  several  months  they  had  been  trying  to  get  together. 
One  failure  is  recorded  in  the  following  letter  from  McKim: 

Holland  House.  February  6,  1903 
No  Burnham. 
No  message. 
No  nothing. 
10.20  P.M. 

Dear  Dan'l:  I  missed  you  at  dinner,  but  cheered  up  on  your 
telegraphic  assurance  that  you  would  be  here  at  nine  o'clock. 
I  got  four  tickets  and  enclosed  them  with  a  note  saying  I  would 
call  for  you  at  9.30.  I  fear  either  my  letter  or  you  has  gone 
wrong,  as  they  have  scraped  the  house  in  vain  and  at  last  in- 
formed me  that  you  had  "gone  out."  If  I  had  not  several  men 
at  work  on  Washington,  who  are  anxiously  waiting  on  you  and 
me  to  appear,  I  might  be  tempted  to  hire  a  detective  to  find  out 
where  in  the  devil  you  are.  I  am  highly  disappointed,  as  I  need 
your  individual  attention  and  hate  to  go  ahead  without  you. 
I  shall  expect  you  without  fail  on  your  return. 

Yours  disgustedly 

Charles 

These  httle  misunderstandings  were  unavoidable.  Both 
men  were  extremely  busy,  and  each  was  so  engrossed  with  the 
matters  and  people  connected  with  the  immediate  work  in 
hand  that  neither  had  time  for  amenities  that  require  leis- 
ure for  cultivation  and  expression.  Besides,  Chicago  and  New 
York  are  far  apart  when  men  are  particularly  interested  in 
local  problems. 


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IN  ANNAPOLIS  199 

The  chief  criticism  McKim  made  on  the  Washington  sta- 
tion plans  concerned  the  shape  of  the  plaza,  which  was  designed 
in  the  form  of  an  elhpse.  This  McKim  considered  a  weak  and 
unsatisfactory  form.  That  the  result  of  the  inspection  on 
March  9  was  satisfactory  is  indicated  in  a  letter  from  McKim 
to  Burnham,  saying: 

In  the  course  of  an  interview  last  week  with  Mr.  Cassatt,  I 
took  advantage  of  the  opportunity  to  refer  to  your  plans  for 
the  terminal  station,  over  which  he  expressed  much  pleasure 
and  satisfaction. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Burnham  were  enjoying  a  visit  with  the 
Schmidlapps  in  Cincinnati  when  a  telegram  came  to  tell  of 
Hubert's  illness  at  Annapolis.  Within  an  hour  they  were  on  the 
train,  and  on  arriving,  April  6,  they  found  that  Hubert  was 
in  the  Academy  hospital  with  typhoid  fever.  They  secured 
a  boarding-place  at  Mrs.  O'Lones'  house,  90  King  George 
Street;  and  as  Hubert's  temperature  quickly  went  down,  they 
enjoyed  the  hospitality  of  Admiral  and  Mrs.  Schroeder,  Mrs. 
Brownson,  Commander  and  Mrs.  Dodger,  and  others  of  the 
officers. 

It  was  not  until  May  20  that  Mrs.  Burnham  returned  to 
Chicago  with  Hubert. 

May  22.  John  La  Farge  and  Jaccaci  lunched  in  the  office 
and  looked  over  the  Lake  Front  scheme  and  the  First  National 
Bank  and  West  Point  drawings. 

May  25.  (Sunday.)  At  home  all  day.  The  Deerings,  Browns, 
Polks,  Mrs.  Lord  and  Kate,  Miss  Cole  and  Charles  Council, 
Mrs.  Fuller  and  Harriet  M.,  Mrs.  Gibnore,  the  Lakes,  the 
Woodyatt  boys,  Morley  and  Anderson  called.  The  Polks  left 
for  Europe. 

This  was  a  typical  Sunday  evening  in  summer  at  the  Burn- 


200  THE  WASHINGTON  STATION 

liam  home.  During  the  early  afternoon  there  was  tennis  on  the 
courts  near  the  house,  or  a  game  of  ball  in  which  both  boys 
and  girls  engaged.  Often  Mr.  Burnham  would  be  detained  in 
the  city  until  late  in  the  afternoon,  returning  to  find  visiting  in 
full  blast.  When  time  came  for  tea,  the  visitors,  often  from 
twenty  to  thirty  in  number,  would  stroll  along  the  narrow, 
winding  paths  through  the  native  forest,  thence  under  the 
trellis  that  traversed  the  vegetable  gardens,  and  so  to  steps 
leading  to  the  high  terrace,  the  width  of  a  city  block,  over- 
looking the  illimitable  expanse  of  Lake  Michigan.  There  a 
tea-house  was  built  for  service  and  as  a  refuge  in  case  of  sudden 
storms.  Among  the  groups  scattered  over  the  grass,  the  tea- 
cart  circulated  hospitably,  and  talk  went  on  long  after  the 
only  light  came  from  the  tips  of  the  men's  cigars. 
On  June  5  McKim  wrote : 

I  am  sailing  for  Europe  for  the  first  decent  vacation  I  have 
had  for  three  years.  I  am  sorry  to  think  that  I  shall  not  see  you 
before  I  go,  and  write  to  say  good-bye;  and  also  I  shall  be  of 
any  service  to  you  if  I  can  while  on  the  other  side.  I  am  taking 
with  me  some  photographs  and  prints  of  the  work  of  this  office 
for  the  R.I.B.A.  exhibition,  in  which  I  have  been  asked  to 
participate,  as  the  recipient  of  the  medal  for  1903,  as  you  may 
have  heard.  ^  ...  I  am  proposing,  with  your  approval,  to  take 

'  The  gold  medal  of  the  Royal  Institute  of  British  Architects.  A  dinner 
given  to  the  recipient  by  the  King  is  a  portion  of  the  ceremonies.  Mr.  Mc- 
Kim was  entertained  by  Edward  VII  at  Windsor  Palace,  and  after  the 
dinner,  as  the  King  and  Mr.  McKim  were  walking  in  the  gardens,  the  for- 
mer said:  "I  have  always  wanted  to  repeat  my  visit  to  the  United  States, 
where  I  had  so  much  pleasure  in  1860.  There  are  so  many  things  I  want  to 
see  —  for  example,  the  Flatiron  Building  in  New  York."  McKim  used  to 
tell  this  story  as  a  joke  on  himself,  sky-scrapers  being  his  pet  architectural 
abomination. 

It  was  on  this  occasion  that  he  cabled  in  reply  to  a  highly  congratulatory' 
telegram  from  his  American  friends:  "Thanks;  I  still  wear  the  same  sized 
hat." 


LAKE  MICHIGAN  PARKWAY  201 

with  me  and  present  as  the  gift  of  the  Park  Commission  the 
photographs  of  the  Washington  scheme,  made  by  Miss  John- 
ston; also  a  copy  of  the  report  of  the  Senate  District  Commit- 
tee on  the  same  subject.  I  have  half  a  dozen  of  the  best  pho- 
tographs, showing  the  Capitol  and  Washington  Monument, 
enlarged  to  give  a  better  idea  of  the  scheme  of  the  Commission, 
and  would  take  a  set  of  lantern  slides  were  I  lecturer  enough  to 
undertake  the  job.  .  .  .  The  coming  winter  is  full  of  work  and 
worry  and  for  one  thing  a  controversy  with  the  Government  on 
the  question  of  remuneration  is  surely  before  us.  For  two  years 
I  have  had  no  let  up,  and  in  view  of  all  ahead  I  feel  that  it  has 
reached  a  time  when  it  is  important  for  me  to  take  it.  Wishing 
you  a  happy  summer,  etc. 

During  1903  the  Lake  Front  Parkway  in  Chicago,  which 
Bumham  had  taken  up  directly  after  the  Fau-,  at  the  sug- 
gestion of  James  W.  Ellsworth,  was  never  out  of  mind.  There 
were  luncheons  with  General  Manager  Wallace  of  the  Illinois 
Central,  the  tracks  of  which  road  were  an  obstacle  to  be  sur- 
mounted; talks  before  the  people  of  Evanston  and  Chicago  on 
the  plans  for  Washington,  with  more  than  incidental  reference 
to  the  schemes  for  Chicago,  which  were  fast  growing  in  the  well- 
cultivated  soil  of  his  mind.  On  June  4  he  spoke  to  the  Com- 
mercial Club  on  the  subject  of  the  beautification  of  Chicago. 
The  meeting  was  attended  by  Franklin  MacVeagh,  J.  V,  Far- 
well,  Jr.,  Leslie  Carter,  Harley  Bradley,  and  others,  who 
passed  resolutions  asking  Bumham  to  make  a  report  on  the 
subject  to  the  club  in  October. 

On  August  17  the  report  on  the  Cleveland  Civic  Centre  was 
presented  to  Mayor  Tom  Johnson  and  the  Directors  of  Public 
Service,  and  was  formally  accepted  by  them  for  the  city.  Dur- 
ing the  first  year  of  the  existence  of  the  Group  Plan  Commis- 
sion they  devoted  themselves  to  the  discussion  of  the  main 


202  THE  CLEVELAND  GROUP  PLAN 

scheme  and  tried  various  solutions  of  the  problem.  They  had 
a  special  office  in  New  York  where  the  drawings  were  made. 
Mr.  Burnham  constantly  visited  this  office  and  held  consulta- 
tions there. 

The  first  important  discussion  centred  on  the  position  of 
the  railway  station,  which,  it  was  finally  decided,  should  be  in 
the  centre  of  the  composition,  on  the  Lake  Front.  Mr.  Burn- 
ham  felt  very  strongly  about  this  and  compared  the  Group 
Plan  with  the  buildings  in  Chicago  at  the  World's  Fair.  He 
told  his  fellow-commissioners  how  Mr.  McKim  finally  decided 
that  the  buildings  on  the  Lake  Front  had  to  be  connected  by  a 
colonnade  with  a  great  central  feature,  and  said  that  in  the 
case  of  Cleveland  the  scheme  required  similar  treatment. 
Accordingly  the  position  of  the  railway  station  was  definitely 
fixed  and  agreed  upon. 

For  over  a  year  [writes  Mr.  Brunner]  we  worked  at  the 
drawings  and  constantly  conferred  about  the  details  of  the 
plan,  Mr.  Burnham  always  adding  fresh  inspiration  and  prov- 
ing himself  to  be  a  designer  as  well  as  a  more  than  intelligent 
critic.  In  writing  the  report,  which  contained  reproductions 
of  our  drawings,  Mr.  Burnham  contributed  largely  to  its  pres- 
entation. 

Looking  over  the  minutes  of  the  following  years,  up  to  1911, 
the  time  of  the  sad  death  of  Mr.  Carrere,^  it  is  interesting  to 
note  the  various  activities  of  the  Commission.  Probably  the 
most  popular  service  our  commission  rendered  to  Cleveland 
was  to  show  that  $7,000,000,  the  proposed  cost  of  the  new 
County  Court  House,  was  excessive;  and  after  careful  calcula- 
tions the  Board  found  that  the  building  need  not  cost  more 
than  half  that  amount  —  a  recommendation  enthusiastically 
received. 

•  John  Carrere  was  instantly  killed  in  an  automobile  accident  in  the 
streets  of  New  York. 


a 
z 

< 

> 


o 

OS 


THE  CLEVELAND  COMMISSION  203 

The  City  Council  passed  a  resolution,  on  June  18,  1902, 
giving  the  Board  control  of  the  location  of  all  municipal  and 
county  buildings  erected  in  Cleveland,  besides  control  of  their 
size,  style,  and  general  appearance.  Accordingly,  we  were  con- 
sulted not  only  about  the  design  of  the  Court  House  and  the 
City  Hall,  in  which  we  suggested  numerous  modifications,  but 
also  about  many  minor  public  buildings,  such  as  schools, 
branch  libraries,  markets;  projects  for  the  treatment  of  several 
miles  of  Lake  Front;  for  the  terminus  of  the  High  Level  Bridge 
and  the  proposed  Lake  Shore  Boulevard.  In  fact  we  performed 
in  part  the  function  of  an  art  commission  for  the  city. 

The  Commission  passed  resolutions  recommendmg  the  use 
of  granite  for  the  Federal  Building,  for  which  Mr.  Arnold  W. 
Brunner  was  the  architect,  and  granite  was  finally  used  much 
to  Mr.  Bumham's  personal  delight,  as  it  was  the  material  he 
wished  to  use  for  all  the  buildings  in  the  Group  Plan. 

During  all  these  years  Mr.  Burnham  conscientiously  at- 
tended the  meetings  except  when  he  was  in  Europe.  He  gave 
much  time  to  them  and  his  hearty  enthusiasm  was  delightful. 
He  was  unquestionably  our  leader.  Later,  when  he  designed 
the  railway  station  and  submitted  his  drawings  to  the  Com- 
mission, we  naturally  approved  the  project,  which  was  splen- 
didly worked  out  and  in  which  he  was  tremendously  interested. 

After  Mr.  Carrere's  death,  Mr.  Frank  B.  Meade,  of  Cleve- 
land, was  appointed  in  his  place,  and  in  1912  Mr.  Olmsted  was 
appouited  to  succeed  Mr.  Burnham,  Mr.  Brunner  being  elected 
chairman. 

The  Commission  is  still  in  existence  [continues  Mr.  Brunner], 
but  is  not  active.  The  members  are  called  to  Cleveland  from 
time  to  time  to  decide  upon  various  buildings  to  be  erected  in 
the  Group  Plan,  such  as  the  Auditorium  and  the  addition  to 
the  Court  House.  The  Post  Office,  the  Custom  House  and 
Court  House  (or  the  United  States  Federal  Building,  as  it  is 
called),  the  Cuyahoga  County  Court  House  and  the  City  Hall 
all  have  been  completed.   A  large  portion  of  the  ground  re- 


204  THE  CLEVELAND  GROUP  PLAN 

quired  for  the  Mall  has  been  acquired  by  the  city,  but  no  steps 
have  been  taken  to  demoHsh  the  buildings  that  now  occupy  it 
so  that  the  visitor  to  Cleveland  does  not  readily  see  the  prog- 
ress that  really  has  been  made.  Unfortunately,  the  railway 
station  has  not  been  built,  and  it  appears  that  the  present 
intention  of  the  railroads  is  to  abandon  the  site  upon  which 
all  agreed,  and  to  erect  a  station  in  the  PubUc  Square.  This 
leaves  the  future  completion  of  the  Group  Plan  undecided  and 
in  an  unsatisfactory  condition,  a  state  of  affairs  that  would 
probably  not  have  existed  if  Mr.  Bumham,  with  his  splendid 
enthusiasm,  his  force  and  personality,  were  here  to  plead  for 
the  execution  of  the  plan  on  which  he  had  set  his  heart. 


CHAPTER  XV 

THE   STRUGGLE  TO   PRESERVE   THE   MALL   IN 
WASHINGTON 

1903-1904 

THE  legislation  for  the  removal  of  the  Pennsylvania 
Railroad  station  from  the  Mall  was  put  through 
Congress  during  the  time  when  the  new  plans  for 
Washington  were  still  fresh  in  the  minds  and  imaginations  of 
all.  The  railroads,  having  consented  to  make  the  changes. 
Congress  was  made  to  see  the  advantage  of  spending  the 
money  necessary  to  accomplish  the  changes;  and  the  people  of 
the  District  were  surprised  and  gratified  over  the  prospective 
fulfilment  of  their  long-cherished  dreams  of  getting  the  rail- 
roads out  of  the  parks  —  visions  that  with  every  year  had 
seemed  to  become  more  and  more  unsubstantial  as  those  cor- 
porations confirmed  their  hold  on  public  property. 

With  the  death  of  Senator  McMillan  came  the  test  of  the 
Plan  of  1901.  He  had  said,  in  reply  to  a  pessimistic  remark 
as  to  the  obstacles  in  the  path  of  the  new  plan:  "If  the  plan 
shall  prove  to  be  as  good  as  we  think  it,  then  it  will  be  carried 
out;  but  if  it  is  not  a  good  plan,  it  will  fail,  and  will  deserve  to 
fail."  It  is  not  fair  to  say  that  with  the  passing  from  the  scene 
of  Senator  McMillan,  the  plan  had  no  friends  in  Congress.  It 
is  quite  within  bounds,  however,  to  say  that  the  plan  had  lost 
the  unflinching  support  and  championship  of  the  one  man 
whose  influence  and  pertinacity  would  have  overcome  the 
particular  kinds  of  opposition  that  developed  in  and  out  of 


206  THE  MALL  IN  WASHINGTON 

Congress,  and  whose  disinterestedness  would  have  rallied  to 
his  aid  a  body  of  supporters.  After  him  came  the  deluge;  and 
nothing  but  the  inherent  logic  and  worth  of  the  Plan  of  1901 
enabled  it  to  survive  the  attacks  made  upon  it  when  left  with- 
out a  sponsor  in  Congress  who  understood  its  elements  and  was 
able  to  maintain  its  integrity.^ 

On  Jime  24,  1903,  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  LesUe  M. 
Shaw,  wrote  Mr.  Burnham  that  Congress  had  provided  for 
the  purchase  of  the  block  bounded  by  E,  F,  Eighteenth,  and 
Nineteenth  Streets  (where  the  Interior  Department  is  now 
located)  for  a  hall  of  records.  President  Roosevelt,  the  Sec- 
retary stated,  was  anxious  not  to  do  violence  to  the  scheme 
outlined  in  the  Park  Commission  report.  Friends  of  the  site 
argued  that  it  was  not  out  of  harmony  with  the  plan,  and  so 
the  question  was  referred  to  Mr.  Burnham.  To  this  letter  Mr. 
Burnham  replied: 

There  are  two  sorts  of  architectural  beauty,  first,  that  of  an 
individual  building;  and  second,  that  of  an  orderly  and  fitting 
arrangement  of  many  buildings.  The  relationship  of  all  the 
buildings  is  more  important  than  anything  else.  Realizing 
this,  the  Commission  made  a  plan  of  which  the  Agricultural 
building  and  a  hall  of  records  formed  a  part.  Neither  of  these 

*  James  McMillan,  Senator  from  Michigan  from  1889  till  his  death  in 
1902,  was  born  in  Hamilton,  Ontario,  of  Scotch  parents.  In  1855,  as  a  lad 
he  went  to  Detroit  and,  after  a  railway  experience,  became  the  active  part- 
ner of  the  firm  of  Newberry  &  McMillan,  builders  of  freight-cars.  He  was 
interested  in  shipbuilding,  in  the  navigation  interests  of  the  Great  Lakes,  in 
building  and  managing  railroads,  in  banking  and  in  public  utility  com- 
panies. On  entering  the  Senate,  he  virtually  retired  from  business  and  gave 
his  attention  to  public  duties,  especially  to  the  improvement  of  the  District 
of  Columbia;  its  schools,  charities,  street  railways,  water-supply  and  filtra- 
tion, and  all  other  matters  of  civil  economy.  The  development  of  the  park 
system  he  regarded  as  his  culminating  work  for  the  District;  but  it  was  only 
a  portion  of  his  senate  tasks,  for  he  was  one  of  the  leaders  among  the  Re- 
pubhcans  in  the  Senate. 


CONTROVERSY  WITH  SECRETARY  SHAW    207 

buildings  could  be  omitted  from  the  plan  or  its  location 
changed  without  a  serious  loss  to  the  design  as  a  whole.  The 
questions  to  be  decided  by  the  Executive  seemed  to  be :  Is  any 
plan  of  locating  buildings  worth  while;  or,  on  the  contrary, 
shall  the  judgment  of  individuals  be  allowed  to  determine 
each  case  as  it  arises  and  without  any  reference  to  others? 

If  the  Executive  decides  that  the  Senate  was  wise  in  going 
to  the  trouble  and  expense  of  laying  out  a  plan  for  the  improve- 
ment of  the  Capital,  then  that  plan,  or  some  other  which  is 
satisfactory,  should  be  adopted  and  adhered  to  and  no  monu- 
mental structure,  such  as  a  hall  of  records  or  the  Agricultural 
building,  should  be  allowed  to  proceed  unless  in  accordance 
with  the  plan ;  for  if  they  are  built  without  reference  to  future 
conditions,  it  may  be  impossible  to  make  future  conditions 
harmonize  with  them.  One  has  but  to  notice  the  unfortunate 
competition  of  the  dome  of  the  Congressional  Library  with 
that  of  the  Capitol,  or  to  see  the  effect  of  the  Post  Office  roof 
and  tower,  in  order  to  understand  the  danger  of  disregarding 
general  effect  and  of  ignoring  everything  except  the  building 
immediately  to  be  dealt  with. 

The  question  of  location  will  arise  whenever  any  building 
is  to  be  dealt  with,  and  pressure  will  inevitably  be  brought  to 
bear  to  change  from  the  general  plan.  No  plan  can  be  carried 
out  unless  the  Executive  enforces  it,  and  one  or  two  precedents 
against  adhering  to  the  general  plan  will  make  it  impossible  for 
the  people  to  realize  any  good  scheme  whatever  for  public 
beauty  in  Washington. 

Secretary  Shaw  answered  that  he  did  not  believe  that  the 
report  could  be  carried  out  in  all  its  details,  if  each  public 
building  must  be  located  on  the  site  selected  by  the  Park  Com- 
mission. He  asked  for  another  expression  of  opinion  as  to 
whether  the  site  selected  for  a  hall  of  records  would  be  a  prac- 
tical abandonment  of  the  report  or  whether  it  would  be  in 
measurable  harmony  with  it. 

To  this  question,  on  July  16,  Mr.  Burnham  replied: 


208  THE  MALL  IN  WASHINGTON 

The  United  States  Government  is  soon  to  erect  two  monu- 
mental buildings  of  the  first  class.  The  sites  for  them  have  been 
arranged  as  part  of  the  general  plan  for  the  improvement  of 
the  city.  This  general  plan  will  result  in  convenience  and 
beauty  if  it  can  be  carried  out.  It  can  be  carried  out  if  the 
Executive  is  willing  to  enforce  it.  It  cannot  be  carried  out  if 
indixdduals  are  allowed  to  disarrange  it  by  shiftmg  the  sites  or 
by  forcing  the  adoption  of  those  that  have  no  relationship  with 
each  other  or  which  may  even  conflict.  The  most  important 
of  the  materials  from  which  this  general  plan  is  to  be  realized 
are  such  buildings  as  those  already  mentioned.  If,  therefore, 
the  hall  of  records  and  the  Agricultural  building  be  not  erected 
in  accordance  with  the  general  plan,  then  the  plan  will  un- 
doubtedly sutler  by  disarrangement.  But  this  is  not  all.  Sup- 
pose that  individuals  who  care  nothing  for  general  order  and 
beauty  be  allowed  to  have  their  owti  way  this  once,  is  it  not 
sure  that  the  very  same  urgency  will  be  brought  to  bear  on 
every  future  occasion?  Is  it  not  sure  that  some  one  will  in- 
variably try  to  change  each  of  the  locations  when  the  time 
comes  to  build? 

If  the  Executive  yields  now,  it  will  be  much  more  dilTicult 
to  refuse  in  the  future,  because  it  will  then  have  not  alone  the 
urgency  of  personal  interest,  but  precedent  as  well  to  contend 
with.  On  all  future  occasions  the  claim  will  be  set  up  that  the 
Plan  was  abandoned  by  the  Administration  and  was  dropped 
definitively.  Therefore,  I  believe  that  unless  you  now  adhere 
to  the  general  plan  it  will  be  lost  and  the  w'ork  done  upon  it 
thrown  away.  It  will  never  again  be  so  easy  as  it  now  is  to 
stem  the  tide. 

You  ask  me  if  the  new  site  suggested  by  you  is  in  itself  a 
good  one.  Do  you  desire  an  answer  ignoring  the  present  or 
any  other  general  plan?  If  you  do,  it  is  easily  made.  If,  how- 
ever, you  feel  that  it  would  not  be  wise  to  select  a  site  for  such 
an  important  building  without  being  sure  that  such  a  building 
on  such  a  site  will  agree  with  everything  around  it,  then  it 
would  seem  that  a  new  general  plan,  including  a  hall  of  records 
on  that  particular  spot,  should  be  made  before  absolutely  de- 


THE  HALL  OF  RECORDS  209 

termining  to  place  it  there.  But  what  would  this  new  plan 
avail,  unless  you  have  the  assurance  that  it  will  be  carried  out. 
Would  not  the  same  question  of  changing  the  location  of  build- 
ings shown  upon  it  come  up  in  any  case? 

I  do  think  the  present  plan  will  sufTer  if  the  great  hall  of  rec- 
ords be  taken  out  of  it,  and  I  also  believe  that  this  or  any  other 
general  plan  will  thereby  be  made  impossible  of  realization. 

There  is  no  one  in  Washington  whose  duty  it  is  to  defend 
this  plan.  You  are  therefore  most  likely  to  hear  one  side,  when- 
ever the  question  of  a  site  arises  —  the  side  backed  by  local, 
individual  interests. 

It  gives  me  great  pride  to  know  that  in  the  midst  of  your 
great  and  urgent  duties  you  are  giving  thought  to  the  aesthetic 
side  of  the  Government  activity,  and  that  you  wish  to  discuss 
it  with  a  private  citizen.  Unless  you  object,  I  desire  to  say  a 
word  or  two  on  this  topic  with  my  fellow  architects,  who  will 
be  pleased  and  gratified  when  they  know  the  deep  interest 
you  show  in  the  matter. 

Secretary  Shaw,  who  prided  himself  on  being  a  "practical" 
man,  took  advantage  of  Mr.  Burnham's  slip  in  saying  "the 
Executive"  when  he  meant  the  Government  —  an  error  into 
which  he  fell  because  of  the  impUcation  in  the  original  letter, 
that  before  proceeding  with  a  hall  of  records,  Mr.  Burnham's 
advice  was  sought  by  the  President.  Moreover,  no  appro- 
priation for  a  building  had  been  made.  On  July  18,  the  Sec- 
retary wrote: 

I  am  in  receipt  of  your  letter  of  the  16th,  from  which  I 
quote  "this  general  plan  will  result  in  convenience  and  beauty 
if  it  can  be  carried  out.  It  can  be  carried  out  if  the  Executive 
is  willing  to  enforce  it."  A  similar  statement  was  contained 
in  your  former  letter  which  I  showed  to  the  President.  I  join 
with  him  in  the  opinion  that  you  do  not  fully  appreciate  the 
situation.  The  only  way  the  Executive  can  enforce  the  erection 
of  pubUc  buildings  on  certain  sites  is  to  veto  the  bills  for  erec- 


210  THE  MALL  L\  WASHLXGTOX 

tion  elsewhere.  Even'  administration  for  twenty  years  has 
begged  and  pleaded  for  a  hall  of  records.  For  the  first  time 
opportimity  is  offered  to  erect  one,  but  imder  the  law  it  can  be 
erected  only  upon  one  site.  By  authorizing  its  erection  in  a 
certain  place,  Congress  has  taken  the  responsibihty  (and  with 
Congress  the  responsibihty  rests)  of  gi^'ing  the  Executive  no 
discretion  as  to  site.  It  does  clothe  the  Executive  with  the  dis- 
cretion of  erecting  it  where  specified  or  not  at  all. 

My  inquiry-  was  not  whether  this  was  a  site  suggested  by 
your  Commission.  I  know  it  was  not.  But  I  did  desire  to 
know  whether  the  erection  of  a  dead  building,  a  warehouse, 
on  the  site  proposed  would  in  your  opinion  do  such  \iolence 
to  the  report  as  to  render  it  inad\"isable  to  cany*  out  the  re- 
maining suggestions. 

I  doubt  if  any  Executive  would  take  the  responsibility  of 
vetoing  a  bill  for  the  erection  of  a  much  needed  public  building 
simply  because  it  was  not  on  the  site  that  had  been  recom- 
mended by  a  commission. 

Mr.  Bumham  repUed,  on  July  21,  with  restraint  and  dignity: 

I  am  aware  that  the  President  has  no  power  of  substitution 
imder  the  act  authorizing  the  selection  of  a  site  for  a  hall  of 
records,  and  I  do  appreciate  the  difficulties  of  the  situation. 
Senator  Stewart  ^  sent  me  a  copy  of  the  statement  which  was 
recently  mailed  to  you,  from  which  it  appears  that  the  great 
departments  of  the  Government  beheve  that  block  143  is  lo- 
cated conveniently  for  a  hall  of  records.  It  would  be  out  of 
place  for  me  to  question  the  judgment  of  the  departments,  even 
if  I  differed  from  them,  which  I  do  not.  There  is  no  reason 
why  this  building  should  not  be  located  on  block  143,  except 
the  one  stated  before,  that  this  action  would  take  it  out  of  the 
composition  already  made  and  create  a  precedent  against  the 
cany  ing  out  of  any  general  plan. 

I  have  no  doubt  that  we  could  find  some  treatment  for  the 
ground  whereon  we  had  proposed  to  place  the  hall  of  records, 

'  Senator  William  M.  Stewart,  of  Nevada,  who  owned  a  portion  of  the 
land  included  in  the  site  sold  to  the  Government. 


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PRESIDENT  ROOSEVELT S  CORDIALITY     211 

in  case  it  does  not  go  there.  But  I  feel  that  the  failure  of  the 
Government  to  carry  out  our  plan  when  the  first  opportu- 
nities arise  for  doing  so  will  be  a  practical  abandonment  of  it. 

In  the  last  paragraph  of  your  letter  you  express  a  doubt 
which  should  be  a  certainty,  for  I  am  sure  that  no  one  expects 
the  Executive  to  take  a  responsibility  you  mention  "because 
of  the  recommendation  of  a  commission."  If  the  President 
backs  this  or  any  other  plan  for  public  improvement  in  Wash- 
ington he  ought  to  do  it  solely  on  the  ground  that  the  plan 
itself  is  a  good  one,  which,  if  followed,  will  result  in  that  order 
and  beauty  which  is  to  be  so  much  desired. 

If  the  Executive  cannot  take  the  site  shown  on  the  general 
plan  for  the  hall  of  records,  will  it  not  nevertheless  be  possible 
to  direct  matters  so  that  some  fixed  scheme  of  good  order  shall 
be  endorsed  and  carried  out  in  the  future?  Should  the  Presi- 
dent see  fit  to  make  the  systematic  improvement  of  the  Capital 
an  executive  measure,  he  would  have  the  enthusiastic  support 
of  the  whole  press  and  people. 

Secretary  Shaw  replied  in  a  letter  clearly  indicating  his  ani- 
mus towards  the  Plan: 

At  the  suggestion  of  the  President  I  enclose  you  herewith 
his  letter  to  me  relative  to  the  hall  of  records.  I  think  you  will 
appreciate  the  President's  cordiality  to  you  and  your  commis- 
sion, but  what  we  are  after  is  assistance  in  getting  the  best 
possible  results.  Personally,  I  do  not  believe  that  any  Congress 
will  ever  pay  the  least  attention  to  the  report  of  the  Commis- 
sion. Personally  I  would  follow  any  plan  rather  than  erect 
buildings  with  no  general  plan,  but  Congress  is  a  practical  and 
not  a  theoretical  body.  The  question  on  which  we  want  your 
opinion  is  this :  if  we  should  erect  this  building  where  Congress 
has  designated,  would  it  thereafter  be  worth  while  to  press 
the  report  upon  the  attention  of  Congress,  or  would  it  mean  a 
practical  abandonment  of  the  scheme  outlined  in  the  report? 

In  reply  to  this  hypothetical  question  Mr.  Burnham  wrote, 
on  July  24 : 


212  THE  MALL  IN  WASHINGTON 

In  answer  to  your  specific  question:  I  believe  that  it  would 
be  a  good  thing  to  press  the  report  upon  the  attention  of 
Congress  even  though  the  hall  of  records  shall  have  been 
placed  upon  block  143,  instead  of  where  shown  by  the  general 
plan. 

I  do  understand  the  situation  perfectly,  as  I  wrote  to  you 
yesterday,  and  I  sjTnpathize  with  the  President.  I  know  very 
well  that  he  takes  an  interest  in  the  report  made  by  us  and 
that  he  would  like  to  see  it  carried  out,  and  I  hope  he  will  feel 
that  it  is  proper  for  him  to  make  an  active  effort  in  its  behalf, 
although  it  is  well  known  that  at  least  one  man  prominent  in 
Washington  is  opposed  to  everything  which  carried  the  ap- 
proval of  the  Commission. 

The  location  of  the  hall  of  records  does  not  make  so  much 
difference  to  the  Plan,  as  does  the  building  of  the  Department 
of  Agriculture. 

General  Washington  himself  dictated  the  Plan  of  the  Mall 
in  all  its  essential  features :  First,  a  grand  avenue  in  the  centre 
of  the  Mall;  second,  a  line  of  white  palaces  on  each  side  of  the 
avenue,  extending  along  its  entire  length. 

This  arrangement  cannot  be  surpassed,  and  after  advising 
with  every  one  whose  judgment  we  found  of  value  we  incor- 
porated Washington's  arrangement  into  our  plan,  or  rather 
we  considered  his  plan  best  and  adopted  it.  When  we  did  this 
we  had  before  us  a  schedule  of  public  buildings  to  be  erected  in 
the  next  few  years  on  the  Mall.  All  of  them  will  be  museums,  or 
semi-museums,  for  public  use,  and  they  will  be  eminently 
fit  to  carry  out  Washington's  plan.  If  one  of  these  buildings 
be  now  erected  upon  the  Mall,  but  not  upon  its  true  axis,  then 
a  state  of  disorder  will  have  been  made  permanent  and  a  sys- 
tematic arrangement  of  this  public  space  will  have  been  made 
impossible  thereafter. 

The  railroads  through  Mr.  A.  J.  Cassatt,  President  of  the 
Pennsylvania  Company,  gave  up  their  location  on  the  Mall 
after  a  long  contest.  This  location  was  an  admirable  one  for 
the  railroads  themselves,  but  Mr.  Cassatt  agreed  to  leave  the 
location  because  he  was  convinced  that  remaining  there  would 


SECRETARY  WILSON  INTERVENES         213 

form  a  barrier  which  would  thereafter  stand  in  the  way  of  the 
general  improvement. 

And  therefore,  the  railroads  have  gone  to  the  place  selected 
for  them  by  the  Commission  and  have  begun  the  erection  upon 
it  of  a  station  which  will  cost  two  or  three  times  as  much  as  was 
proposed  to  expend  on  their  present  site  on  the  Mall.  I  mention 
this  fact  in  order  to  show  how  strong  public  sentunent  is  in  the 
matter. 

The  President's  position  is  just.  The  place  to  fight  was  in 
Congress  when  the  bills  were  up.  For  one,  I  knew  nothing 
about  this  part  of  the  work.  Saint-Gaudens,  McKim,  Olmsted, 
and  I  worked  over  the  thing  without  pay  for  the  better  part  of 
two  years,  and  reported  a  year  and  a  half  ago,  supposing  that 
the  Senate  District  Committee  would  follow  up  the  matter; 
but  the  death  of  Senator  McMillan  seems  to  have  left  a  va- 
cancy which  no  one  else  cares  to  fill. 

If  the  President  will  give  us  a  hint,  however,  we  will  try  to 
anticipate  for  the  future.  Meanwhile,  must  the  Agricultural 
building  go  on  without  reference  to  any  future  plan? 

On  August  3,  the  Secretary  of  Agriculture,  James  Wilson, 
wrote  to  Mr.  Burnham : 

Your  letter  of  July  24  to  Secretary  Shaw  reaches  me  by  way 
of  the  President.  I  am  amazed  at  several  of  the  statements 
you  make.  It  is  very  easy  to  read  between  the  lines  whom  you 
mean  when  you  speak  of  the  Department  of  Agriculture  build- 
ing being  put  in  some  wrong  place.  I  cannot  understand  one  of 
your  expressions,  and  I  hope  you  will  give  me  some  information 
about  it.  You  say,  "if  one  of  these  buildings  be  now  erected 
upon  the  Mall,  but  not  upon  its  true  axis  then  a  slate  of  disorder 
will  have  been  made  permanent  and  a  systematic  arrangement 
of  the  public  space  will  have  been  made  impossible  thereafter." 

Will  you  kindly  tell  me  to  what  axis  you  have  reference? 
Some  busybody  who  meddles  in  other  people's  affairs  has  been 
giving  you  a  great  deal  of  misinformation.  We  have  not  come 
to  the  location  of  the  building  and  will  not  for  several  months. 
Who  has  told  you  that  anybody  proposes  to  have  the  Agricul- 


214  THE  MALL  IN  WASHINGTON 

tural  building  go  on  "without  reference  to  any  future  plan," 
as  you  speak  of  in  the  closing  paragraph  of  your  letter? 

On  August  5,  Mr.  Burnham  relumed  a  soft  answer,  with  the 
intention  of  turning  away  the  wrath  of  the  Secretary  of  Agri- 
culture : 

Your  valued  favor  of  the  third  instant  is  duly  received  and 
contents  carefully  noted.  In  answer  to  your  first  question,  I 
have  the  honor  to  send  you  a  copy  of  the  general  plan  made  by 
the  Senate  Conunission,  on  which  I  have  marked  the  true  axis 
referred  to.  This  plan  carries  out  General  Washington's  plan, 
which  is  L'Enfant's.  The  essence  of  this  design  is  the  avenue, 
on  each  side  of  which  is  to  be  a  line  of  white  buildings.  Unless 
these  buildings  on  each  side  be  centred  on  the  same  east  and 
west  line,  the  beauty  of  the  general  arrangement  will  be  en- 
tirely lost,  and  it  will  be  exactly  true  that,  as  I  said  to  Secretary 
Shaw,  if  one  of  these  buildings  be  now  erected  upon  the  Mall, 
but  not  upon  its  true  axis,  then  a  state  of  disorder  will  have 
been  made  permanent  and  a  systematic  arrangement  of  this 
public  space  will  have  been  made  impossible  hereafter. 

Much  uneasiness  has  been  felt  regarding  the  placing  of  these 
two  important  buildings,  namely,  the  Agricultural  and  a  hall 
of  records,  as  I  have  fully  explained  in  answer  to  the  question 
Secretary  Shaw  did  me  the  honor  to  ask. 

It  gives  me  great  pleasure  to  know  that  you  resent  the  im- 
plication that  you  might  be  a  party  to  placing  the  Agricultural 
buildmg  anywhere  else  than  in  its  proper  relationship  with 
the  plan  for  the  future  development  of  the  city. 

Every  intelligent  American  is  taking  a  deep  interest  in  this 
question,  and  all  are  looking  to  Washington  in  the  hope  that 
an  example  may  be  set  in  the  Capital,  which  shall  result  in 
greater  order  and  better  harmony  in  all  the  cities  throughout 
the  country. 

Mr.  Burnham's  feelings  after  this  his  second  skirmish  with 
a  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  are  expressed  in  a  letter  to  Charles 
Moore,  dated  September  17,  1903: 


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A  QUESTION  OF  COMITY  215 

My  Dear  Moore:  Several  drafts  were  made  of  letters  to 
you.  Each  of  them  was  destroyed,  because  when  I  came  to 
read  it  over  in  cold  blood  some  coloring  of  my  own  seemed  to 
have  crept  in.  I  now  send  you  copies  of  the  correspondence, 
except  of  the  President's  letter  to  Secretary  Shaw,  which  I  re- 
turned to  the  latter  without  keeping  a  copy.  In  this  letter  the 
President  spoke  of  us  as  "his  Commission"  [meaning  D.  H. 
Bumham's]  and  as  though  we  were  a  set  of  fellows  who  were 
trying  to  exploit  our  private  hobbies.  ...  He  seemed  to  forget 
that  I  was  writing  in  response  to  his  request.  However,  I  hope 
he  understands  us  better  now. 

The  President  wanted  to  know  why  the  architects  did  not 
go  before  the  Committees  of  Congress  to  make  their  fight.  An 
answer  to  this  you  will  see  in  one  of  my  enclosed  letters. 

Congressman  Mercer  called  on  me  a  week  ago  and  talked 
over  this  matter.  I  told  him  that  the  hall  of  records  location  on 
block  143  was  not  bad  in  itself,  but  that  the  precedent  was. 
Incidentally  I  showed  him  the  avenue  on  the  Mall  and  ex- 
plained the  arrangement  of  the  buildings  on  each  side  of  it. 
He  expressed  the  conviction  that  nothing  should  be  allowed  to 
interfere  with  it. 

Block  143  is  Senator  Stewart's  old  home.  The  hall  of  records 
will  be  placed  there.  Every  one  in  Washington  seems  to  think 
so  while  saying  that  it  is  indecent  on  the  part  of  the  old  man 
to  urge  it.  Disgust  and  comity  seem  not  inseparable  in  Wash- 
ington. Nice  word,  "comity." 

I  sent  a  beautiful  map  of  the  Mall  to  Secretary  Wilson  and 
one  to  the  President.  These  had  movable  facings  of  tissue 
paper  on  which  strong  red  hues  indicated  the  east  and  west 
axis  of  the  buildings  beside  the  Avenue,  thus  explaining  to  the 
Secretary  the  meaning  of  "its  true  axis."  These  drawings  are 
about  two  feet  by  two  feet  six  inches  and  will  make  many 
things  clear  to  the  President  and  his  Cabinet. 

You  know  whether  or  not  it  has  cost  me  an  effort  to  keep 
my  temper.  I  hope  that  the  correspondence  shows  that  I  have. 
I  strongly  wished  and  tried  to  leave  all  the  gentlemen  warm- 
hearted and  glad-handed  toward  the  Commission. 


216  THE  MALL  IN  WASHINGTON 

By  the  bye,  I  recently  came  across  a  fact  that  will  interest 
you.  While  with  Josiah  V.  Thompson  in  Southwestern  Penn- 
sylvania, he  told  me  of  a  towTi  near  Connellsville  which  was 
laid  out  by  Washington  in  the  1750's,  the  plan  of  which  is  sim- 
ilar to  that  of  the  Capital,  having  streets  radiating  from  central 
points.  Now!  whose  was  the  plan  adopted  by  Congress  in  1791? 
A  great  man,  our  Uncle  George,  and  magnanimous  withal. 
Did  he  care  who  took  the  credit?  Not  if  the  thmg  "got  itself 
done,"  as  Carlyle  would  say.^ 

Yours  as  ever  D.  H.  B. 

This  correspondence  proved  to  be  the  prelimmary  skirmish 
preceding  the  battle  for  the  preservation  of  the  Mall.  Mr. 
Burnham  did  not  refer  to  Secretary  Wilson  but  to  Represen- 
tative Cannon,  when  he  spoke  of  "the  one  man  known  to  be 
opposed  to  the  Commission  plan."  Mr.  Cannon's  opposition 
was  entirely  open  and  above  board.  This  correspondence 
closes  with  the  President  uncertain,  the  Secretary  of  the  Treas- 
ury sceptical,  and  the  Secretary  of  Agriculture  protesting  too 
much.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  the  hall  of  records  was  not  built  on 
the  site  purchased  for  it,  nor  has  it  been  built  on  any  site.  The 
need  for  such  an  institution,  long  urgent,  now  (1920)  seems 
about  to  be  realized,  and  the  location  will  probably  be  selected 
in  accordance  with  the  Plan  of  1901.  Meanwhile,  on  the  land 
which  Congress  was  induced  to  purchase  ostensibly  for  that 
purpose  an  ofTice-building  has  been  erected  and  is  being  occu- 
pied by  the  Interior  Department,  to  the  detriment  of  the  Plan. 

The  first  great  struggle  came  early  in  1904.  The  issue  was 
joined  when  B.  T.  Galloway,  chau-man  of  the  building  com- 
mittee charged  with  the  construction  of  the  new  building  for 
the  Department  of  Agriculture,  wrote  to  the  architects,  Ran- 

'  Mr.  Burnham's  informant  was  incorrect.  Washington  laid  out  no  sucli 
town. 


NARROWING  THE  MALL  217 

kin,  Kellogg  &  Crane,  of  Philadelphia,  that  Secretary  Wilson 
and  the  sixteen  members  of  the  House  Committee  on  Agricul- 
ture had  called  upon  President  Roosevelt  to  lay  before  him  the 
matter  of  the  location  of  the  building.  They  took  with  them 
the  L'Enfant  plan  of  the  Mall  and  also  the  Plan  of  1901. 

The  latter  plan  contemplated  a  width  of  eight  hundred  feet 
between  the  buildings  on  the  north  side  of  the  Mall  and  those 
on  the  south  side,  the  distances  to  be  measured  from  an  im- 
aginary axial  line  drawn  from  the  centre  of  the  dome  of  the 
Capitol  to  the  centre  of  the  Washington  Monument.  Inas- 
much as  the  monument  was  located  more  than  a  hundred  feet 
south  of  the  L'Enfant  axis,  the  efforts  of  the  Bumham  Com- 
mission to  obtain  an  axis  for  the  great  central  composition  re- 
sulted in  contracting  the  building  space  on  the  south  side  of 
the  Mall.  The  Secretary  and  the  House  Committee  therefore 
proposed  to  narrow  the  width  of  the  space  between  buildings 
from  eight  hundred  feet  to  six  hundred  feet.  That  is  to  say,  a 
body  of  laymen,  without  technical  advice,  and  \\ithout  regard 
to  the  considerations  which  led  to  the  estabUshment  of  greater 
width,  proposed  to  overturn  that  plan  and  to  disarrange  the 
entire  Mall  scheme. 

President  Roosevelt,  after  Ustening  to  the  explanations, 
asked  if  the  Secretary  and  the  Committee  were  mianimous  in 
their  opinion  that  the  Agricultural  Department  building  should 
be  moved  out  to  the  six  hundred  feet  Une.  They  repUed  that 
they  were  not  only  unanimously  in  favor  of  such  action,  but 
they  were  enthusiastic  over  it.  The  President  thereupon  stated 
that  the  matter  must  stand  that  way.' 

'  Letter  dated  February  6,  1904,  B.  T.  Galloway  to  Rankin,  Kellogg  & 
Crane. 


218  THE  MALL  IN  WASHINGTON 

The  architects  sent  a  copy  of  Dr.  Galloway's  letter  to  Mr. 
McKim,  who  wrote  to  President  Roosevelt  on  February  10: 

Dear  Mr.  President:  Knowing  your  deep  interest  in  the 
right  development  of  the  MaU,  and  your  desire  that  each  step, 
as  time  goes  on,  shall  be  wisely  taken,  but  fearing  from  the 
enclosed  letter,  received  this  morning  from  Messrs.  Rankin, 
Kellogg  &  Crane,  architects  for  the  new  building  of  the  De- 
partment of  Agriculture,  that  action  is  about  to  be  taken, 
which,  once  taken,  will  result  to  the  injury  of  the  development 
of  the  Mall  as  a  whole,  I  venture  to  ask,  in  the  name  of  the 
Park  Commission,  that  before  your  authority  is  finally  given 
to  any  change  from  the  plans  accompanying  the  report  of  the 
Commission,  they  may  be  heard,  either  officially  or  unofficially, 
as  you  may  deem  best. 

Since  the  Commission's  report  was  made  at  the  instance 
of  the  Senate,  without  the  concurrence  of  the  House,  and  has 
aroused  some  feeling  in  the  House,  shared  by  Mr.  Camion,  per- 
haps you  will  deem  it  best  to  avoid  a  formal  hearing. 

After  meeting  Mr.  Cannon,  while  last  in  "Washington,  I  can 
state  positively  that  he  has  no  objection  to  the  individual  mem- 
bers of  the  Commission.  On  the  contrary,  it  was  clear  to  me, 
and  is,  I  beheve,  generally  admitted,  that  his  real  opposition 
arose  from  the  Senate's  independent  action  in  going  ahead 
without  the  concurrence  of  the  House. 

What  would  seem  most  important  now  is  the  appointment 
of  some  recognized  authority,  or  committee,  charged  with  the 
questions  involved  in  the  laying-out  of  buildings  and  grounds 
between  the  Monument  and  Capitol,  and  other  questions  af- 
fecting the  development  of  the  Mall  system.  Such  a  com- 
mission should  be  one  acceptable  to  yourself  and  both  houses 
of  Congress. 

Meantime,  when  it  is  considered  that  our  Commission  is 
made  up  of  men  who  did  not  seek  their  appointment,  who  gave, 
without  compensation,  nearly  a  year  of  their  time,  and  who 
were  unanimous  in  the  adoption  of  the  plan  submitted  by 
them,  is  it  too  much  to  ask  that  this  plan,  and  the  arguments 
which  led  to  its  adoption,  be  fairly  discussed  on  their  merits? 


^SMIPEJE- 


THE  MASOMC  TEilPLE,  CHICAGO 


THE  NEWLANDS  BILL  219 

The  architects  of  the  country,  moved  by  the  efTorts  of  Glenn 
Brown,  secretary  of  the  American  Institute  of  Architects,  con- 
ferred with  Senator  Newlands,  of  Nevada,  who  thereupon  in- 
troduced in  the  Senate  a  bill  providing  that  no  building  should 
be  erected  on  the  Mall,  within  four  hundred  feet  of  the  central 
line  stretching  from  the  centre  of  the  dome  of  the  Capitol  to 
the  centre  of  the  Washington  Monument.  McKim  wrote  to 
Bumham,  asking  his  aid  to  preserve  the  Mall  plan.  Mr.  Burn- 
ham,  doubtless  having  in  mind  his  correspondence  of  the  pre- 
vious year  with  Secretary  Shaw  —  a  correspondence  of  which 
apparently  Mr.  McKim  was  ignorant  —  made  this  equivocal 

reply: 

Chicago,  March  8,  1904 

Dear  Charles  :  You  are  paying  the  penalty  for  doing  pub- 
lic work.  Public  work  should  be  avoided  by  men  who  care  for 
their  own  peace  of  mind,  because  one  cannot  give  satisfaction 
to  a  dozen  different  masters,  especially  when  most  of  them  are 
very  deficient  in  taste  and  the  rest  of  them  will  undo  any  one 
who  cannot  be  governed. 

Back  of  the  Senate  hubbub  is  a  very  persistent  effort  from 
department  officials  to  keep  out  "intruders,"  which  is  the  word 
used  so  frankly  by  Senator  Hale  in  his  late  address  regard- 
ing architects. 

If  I  did  not  honor  you  before,  I  should  do  so  now  when  I 
find  you  being  abused  from  the  floor  of  the  Senate.  They 
think  they  are  bowling  terrible  "twisters"  do-wn  there,  but 
they  cannot  touch  your  wicket.  .  .  .  Not  even  by  a  hair's 
breadth. 

My  love  to  you,  as  always 

D.  H.  BURNHAM 

Nevertheless,  Mr.  Burnham  was  on  hand  at  the  hearing  on 
the  Newlands  bill,  called  at  the  instance  of  the  Washington 
Architectural  Club,  and  held  by  the  Senate  Committee  on  the 


220  THE  MALL  IN  WASHINGTON 

District  of  Columbia  on  March  12.  Senator  Gallinger,  chair- 
man of  the  Committee,  Senators  Foraker,  Dillingham,  Foster, 
of  Washington,  Scott,  Martin,  and  Mallory,  were  present.  Of 
the  seven  Senators,  Messrs.  Foraker,  Foster,  and  Scott  were 
not  members  of  the  District  Committee  that  reported  the  Plan 
of  1901.  Senators  Wetmore  and  Newlands  appeared  as  friends 
of  the  proposed  legislation;  McKim,  Saint-Gaudens,  and  Ohn- 
sted  were  present  to  hold  up  Burnham's  hands. ^ 

The  first  person  to  be  heard  was  B.  T.  Galloway,  of  the  De- 
partment of  Agriculture,  who  stated  that  $1,500,000  had  been 
appropriated  for  buildings  for  the  Agricultural  Department, 
and  that  the  Secretary  was  directed  to  use  his  own  authority 
and  judgment  in  the  selection  of  plans  and  in  the  location. 
Rankin,  Kellogg  &  Crane  were  secured  as  architects.  After  the 
work  had  progressed  the  question  of  location  came  up  and  the 
plan  of  the  Park  Commission  had  necessarily  to  be  considered. 
The  architects  prepared  schemes  for  both  the  north  and  the 
south  side  of  the  Mall,  they  themselves  favoring  the  north  side. 
Secretary  Wilson  personally  favored  going  out  of  the  Mall  al- 
together, so  that  the  space  could  be  reserved  as  a  park,  and  also 
so  that  he  could  get  more  room  for  the  natural  expansion  of  the 
Department. 

Secretary  Langley,  who  followed  Mr.  Galloway,  stated  that 

the  Smithsonian  Building  as  it  now  stands  is  included  in  both 

'  The  American  Institute  of  Architects  was  represented  by  W.  B.  Mundie, 
of  Chicago;  George  B.  Post,  of  New  York;  W.  S.  Eames,  of  St.  Louis;  Frank 
Miles  Day  and  Thomas  M.  Kellogg,  of  Philadelphia;  Leon  Dessez,  Glenn 
Brown,  J.  C.  Hornblower  and  George  Oakley  Totten,  of  Washington.  James 
Knox  Taylor,  the  Supervising  Architect  of  the  Treasury  Department; 
Samuel  P.  Langley,  secretary  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution;  Charles  C. 
Glover,  president  of  the  Riggs  National  Bank;  Franklin  W.  Smith,  owner 
of  the  Halls  of  the  Ancients;  and  Blair  Lee,  afterwards  Senator  from  Mary- 
land, also  were  present. 


MAKING  A  PLAN  FOR  WASHINGTON        221 

the  six  hundred  and  the  eight  hundred  feet  width;  and,  in  reply 
to  a  question  by  Senator  Wetmore,  said  that  he  presumed  the 
building  could  be  moved  if  necessary. 
Mr.  Bumham,  on  being  called,  said : 

Mr.  ChauTnan,  you  would  naturally  expect  me  to  stand 
for  the  element  of  beauty  in  public  buildings  and  grounds.  I 
also  stand  for  a  system,  so  that  in  the  future  buildings  shall 
be  erected  with  reference  to  their  grouping  as  a  whole.  The 
World's  Fair  illustrated  the  beauty  which  is  produced  by  the 
grouping  of  buildings.  There  a  systematic  plan  was  first 
evolved,  so  that  the  general  result  would  be  one  of  beauty. 
The  beauty  of  the  whole  composition  was  far  superior  to  that 
of  any  individual  building.  The  people  saw  the  World's  Fair 
and  it  had  its  effect.  One  of  the  effects  seems  to  have  been  a 
desire  on  the  part  of  the  people  to  have  a  general  plan  made  for 
their  capital  city. 

This  feeling  must  have  been  brought  home  to  Senator 
McMillan.  He  appreciated  the  fact  that  not  only  does  this 
sentiment  prevail  among  professional  men,  but  that  there  is  a 
steadily  growing  and  strong  sentiment  for  architectural  beauty 
among  the  people  of  the  United  States. 

We  members  of  the  Park  Commission  were  asked  to  come 
here  to  take  up  the  question  of  a  general  plan  for  the  beautifi- 
cation  of  Washington.  It  seemed  our  opportunity  to  perform 
a  public  duty  as  well  as  a  public  work  —  an  opportunity  that 
does  not  often  come  to  an  architect.  With  the  feeling  that  it 
would  occupy  but  a  few  months,  it  gave  us  pleasure  to  devote 
that  much  time  to  the  pubUc  service.  We  declined  compensa- 
tion for  our  work,  believing  that  in  a  spirit  of  service  we  our- 
selves would  be  led  to  do  our  best. 

The  Commission  began  by  making  a  survey  —  an  optical 
survey  —  of  the  District,  in  order  to  familiarize  ourselves  as 
much  as  possible  with  the  lay  of  the  ground  within  the  city 
boundaries.  We  went  up  the  Potomac  as  far  as  Great  Falls,  to 
examine  the  character  of  the  water-supply  as  well  as  to  get 
the  general  appearance  of  the  scenery  along  the  river.  We  en- 


222  THE  MALL  IN  WASHINGTON 

circled  the  city  on  the  hills,  keeping  our  minds  open  as  far  as 
possible,  before  going  to  the  documents  or  attempting  to  ex- 
amine what  had  abeady  been  planned.  We  went  to  Arlington 
and  down  the  river  to  Alexandria.  It  was  then  suggested  that 
it  would  be  wise  for  us  to  see  the  old  estates  in  Virginia  from 
which  Washington  and  Jefferson  drew  their  ideas  of  planning. 
In  this  way  we  familiarized  ourselves  with  the  very  source  of 
the  original  inspiration.  We  went  down  the  Potomac  River 
and  up  the  James  and  York  Rivers,  visiting  Williamsburg 
and  such  old  Colonial  estates  as  the  Brandons,  Westover,  and 
Shirley. 

After  completing  these  surveys  we  examined  the  documents, 
especially  the  well-known  L 'Enfant  Plan,  which  was  prepared 
under  the  direction  of,  and  in  participation  with,  General 
Washington.  Washington  himself  selected  this  location  and 
then  employed  L'Enfant  to  carry  out  his  ideas.  The  L'Enfant 
Plan  dealt  with  an  axis  —  I  am  speaking  now  strictly  of  the 
Mall  —  from  the  Capitol  to  a  Washington  Statue.  An  eques- 
trian statue  of  Washington  was  authorized  by  the  Continen- 
tal Congress,  but  the  Monument  was  not  begun  until  1848. 
The  plan  of  L'Enfant  was  approved  by  President  Washington 
in  1791,  so  that  it  was  at  that  time  and  so  far  as  I  can  find 
has  remained  officially  the  plan  of  the  city  of  Washington. 
We  do  not  find  that  there  has  been  any  reversal  of  the  ac- 
tion taken  by  Washington  under  authority  of  Congress.^ 

After  making  an  examination  of  existing  material,  it  was 
evident  that  our  duty  was  to  visit  the  various  capitals  of 
Europe  in  order  to  familiarize  ourselves  with  principles  and 
features  in  the  Old  World  which  might  be  utilized  to  advantage 
and  profit  in  our  own  country.  We  craved,  of  course,  all  sug- 
gestions which  the  intelligent  minds  of  the  past  had  to  give  us 
in  regard  to  the  landscape  setting  of  public  buildings.   It  was 

»  Mr.  Burnham  was  entirely  correct.  The  L'Enfant  Plan  covered  the 
area  from  the  Potomac  to  Florida  Avenue  and  from  Rock  Creek  to  the 
Anacostia.  In  1888  Congress  extended  the  plan  to  the  entire  District  of 
Columbia;  and  in  1895  Congress  extended  the  city  of  Washington  to  cover 
the  entire  area  of  the  District  of  Columbia  as  then  constituted  —  about 
seven  square  miles. 


__     iiiiiPi^*!! 


ORCHESTRA  HALL,  CHICAGO 


THE  MALL  SYSTEM  223 


^ 


at  very  great  inconvenience  to  each  one  of  us  that  we  made  the 
journey.  We  studied  all  the  important  and  grand  arrange- 
ments in  the  suburbs  as  well  as  in  the  closely  built  sections 
of  great  cities.  We  saw  the  notable  avenues  and  streets;  we 
visited  both  public  and  private  parks  of  notable  beauty. 

Having  made  this  investigation,  it  was  plain  that  the  L 'En- 
fant scheme  for  Washington  City  could  not  be  improved.  The 
great  feature  of  this  scheme  was  a  grand  park  connection  be- 
tween the  grounds  of  the  Capitol  and  those  of  the  White 
House.  Having  determined  that  this  feature  was  fundamental, 
the  width  became  the  burning  question.  WTiat  width  should  a 
parkway  be,  which  was  a  mile  and  a  half  long  in  the  midst  of 
one  of  the  great  capitals  of  the  world?  We  made  a  thorough 
examination  of  every  notable  plantation  where  trees  were 
used  and  an  open,  grass-covered  space  left  between  them.  We 
found  that  the  nearest  approach  to  the  one  in  the  Mall  in  its 
dimensions  was  Bushy  Park,  near  London,  and  the  parkway 
of  greensward  at  Hatfield  House,  the  seat  of  the  IVIarquis  of 
Salisbury. 

In  order  to  make  more  sure  and  to  check  ourselves,  as  we 
felt  the  very  grave  importance  of  the  reconmiendations  to  the 
Senate,  we  had  flagpoles  erected  through  the  Mall  so  that  we 
could  see  them  from  the  steps  of  the  Capitol  and  from  the  Mon- 
ument itself.  We  tried  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  then  four 
hundred  feet,  then  three  hundred  feet,  and  the  three  hundred 
feet  space  was  plainly  the  best. 

The  question  then  came  up  as  to  whether  the  Commission 
should  recommend  to  you  the  very  best  thing  they  were  ca- 
pable of  finding,  or  whether  something  less,  something  of  in- 
ferior grade  or  quaUty,  should  be  reconunended.  We  had  no 
doubt  that  you  would  expect  us  —  and  certainly  we  felt  our- 
selves that  it  was  the  proper  thing  —  to  recommend  the  very 
best  treatment  for  this  piece  of  ground. 

Having  determined  that  a  three  hundred  foot  opening  is 
necessary  between  the  greatest  monument  in  the  world  and 
one  of  the  greatest  domes  in  the  world,  the  discussion  went  to 
supporting  it  by  trees  on  each  side.  There  again  we  examined 


224  THE  MALL  IN  WASHINGTON 

every  notable  avenue  in  Europe.  We  found  that  not  less  than 
four  trees  constituted  an  avenue.  Three  trees  produced  a  bad 
effect,  because  no  space  is  left  in  the  centre  and  the  composi- 
tion becomes  lop-sided.  People  walk  either  on  one  side  or  the 
other,  whereas  with  four  trees  there  is  a  valley  under  the  trees 
with  a  great  promenade  on  either  side. 

Then  the  distance  apart  for  planting  elms  was  considered, 
and  many  hundreds  of  ehn  trees  were  measured  in  order  that 
we  might  not  make  a  mistake  in  the  distance  which  the  trees 
should  be  placed  apart,  lengthwise  or  crosswise ;  and  the  result 
(fifty  feet)  represents  our  conclusion  after  a  careful  study.  The 
effect  of  four  trees  is  rich.  There  are  some  notable  avenues  in 
England  which  have  six  or  even  more,  and  there  is  a  certain 
richness  and  beauty  that  convinced  us  of  the  propriety  of  rec- 
ommending not  fewer  than  four  trees  on  each  side  of  the  cen- 
tral parkway  vista.  We  felt  that  the  scheme  had  better  not 
be  executed  if  only  two  trees  on  the  sides  were  planted.  It 
would  be  better  not  to  attempt  the  development  because  the 
line  of  trees  would  be  so  thin  and  ineffective  as  to  make  this 
city  a  laughing-stock,  instead  of  obtaining  such  an  effect  as 
the  entire  country  has  the  right  to  expect  of  Congress. 

I  will  say  nothing  of  the  general  features  of  the  scheme,  other 
than  to  call  attention  to  the  fact  that  because  the  Washington 
Monument  was  pushed  over  by  the  engineers  in  order  to  find  a 
better  foundation,  it  became  necessary  to  deflect  the  actual 
line  of  the  axis  slightly  to  the  south.  In  the  report  of  the  Com- 
mission the  recommendation  was  made  that  the  Government 
buy  all  of  the  land  between  Maryland  Avenue  on  the  south  and 
Pennsylvania  Avenue  on  the  north.  It  has  been  evident  from 
the  start  that  the  building  space  on  each  side  of  the  Mall  would 
be  inadequate  for  the  buildings  already  in  sight,  and  that  in  the 
future  the  Government  would  have  to  possess  a  great  deal 
more  land  in  order  to  accommodate  its  buildings. 

In  regard  to  Secretary  Wilson's  feeling  that  the  treatment 
of  the  Mall  should  be  natural  instead  of  formal,  that  is  a  ques- 
tion of  taste.  It  is  a  question  for  educated  men  to  settle  for  this 
country.  It  is  a  question  for  this  Committee.  It  is  a  question 


STRIVING  FOR  THE  IDEAL  225 

for  the  Committee  to  settle,  whether  they  will  have  the  most 
beautiful  thing  that  man  can  conceive  or  whether  the  park 
shall  remam  in  its  natural  state.  We  do  not  feel  that  it  can  with 
propriety  be  left  in  its  natural  state.  We  do  not  think  that 
in  the  midst  of  a  great  city,  with  formaUty  all  about  it,  in- 
formality should  become  the  rule.  We  think  with  the  Cap- 
itol at  one  end  and  the  Monument  at  the  other  (two  of  the 
most  formal  things  in  the  world)  the  treatment  between  these 
structures  should  be  equally  formal.  It  is  not  proposed  by  us, 
and  never  has  been  proposed  by  us,  to  build  in  the  Mall  a 
central  avenue  for  traffic.  We  propose  a  great  open  vista  and 
that  vista  is  the  great  architectural  feature  if  we  may  speak  of 
landscape  work  as  architectural.  The  centre  is  to  be  grass,  hke 
a  green  carpet,  with  roadways  on  each  side,  overhung  by  trees. 
The  width  of  the  Mall  from  building  to  building  is  a  httle 
greater  than  the  length  of  the  Capitol,  as  it  should  be.  The 
Mall  buildings  form  the  architectural  lines  which  lead  up  to  the 
Capitol. 

I  want  to  say  once  more,  in  order  to  impress  it  upon  the  Com- 
mittee, that  the  great  height  of  the  Monument,  555  feet,  and 
the  dome  of  the  Capitol,  influenced  us.  Things  must  be  in  pro- 
portion. If  the  Mall  were  short,  a  narrow  parkway  two  hun- 
dred feet  in  width  could  be  made,  but  such  a  narrow  parkway 
would  appear  mean  and  insignificant  in  a  park  of  the  length  and 
magnitude  of  the  Washington  Mall. 

The  Smithsonian  Institution  can  be  moved.  To  carry  out 
our  scheme  would  result  in  moving  back  the  building,  which 
now  projects  into  the  composition.  I  do  not  suppose  there  is  a 
possibility  in  any  city  of  the  world  of  accomplishing  a  great 
purpose  without  some  destruction.  In  Paris  under  Napoleon 
III  they  destroyed  entire  neighborhoods,  and  what  was  the  re- 
sult? The  cost  of  his  entire  work  is  returned  in  profits  from 
outsiders  who  go  to  visit  Paris  each  year  since  the  improvements 
were  begun. 

["Mr.  Burnham,"  asked  Senator  Gallinger,  "do  you  think 
the  Agricultural  building  should  be  located  on  the  north  side 
of  the  Mall?"] 


226  THE  MALL  IN  WASHINGTON 

I  do,  most  emphatically  [was  the  reply].  If  I  could  locate  it 
where  I  wish,  I  would  prefer  the  corner  of  Fifteenth  Street  and 
Pennsylvania  Avenue.  It  should  be  placed  in  connection  with 
other  great  governmental  buildings  having  to  do  with  the 
Executive  department. 

["Your  idea,"  inquired  Senator  Newlands,  "is  to  place  Ex- 
ecutive department  buildings  all  around  the  White  House?"] 

Yes  [replied  Mr.  Burnham],  just  as  all  the  lands  fronting  the 
Capitol  should  be  purchased  and  used  as  the  location  of  build- 
ings relating  to  the  Legislative  branch  so  the  lands  around  the 
White  House  should  be  devoted  to  Executive  buildings.  Lafay- 
ette Square  should  be  surrounded  by  Departmental  buildings. 

George  B.  Post,  of  New  York,  spoke  briefly  in  favor  of  the 
Park  Commission  plans  for  the  Mall,  and  W.  S.  Eames,  of  St. 
Louis,  and  Frank  Miles  Day,  of  Philadelphia,  argued  in  favor  of 
the  Washington  plans  as  an  object  lesson  for  the  country.  Mr. 
Homblower  explained  that,  so  far  as  the  north  side  of  the  Mall 
was  concerned,  his  experience  with  the  foundations  of  the  new 
National  Museum  proved  that  there  was  no  difTiculty  in  getting 
foundations  on  that  side  of  the  Mall.  Mr.  Mundie  and  Mr. 
Ohnsted  spoke  briefly.  Mr.  KeUogg,  for  the  architects  of  the 
Agricultural  building,  said  that  it  was  perfectly  feasible  to 
place  the  new  buildings  either  on  the  north  or  the  south  side, 
but  that  the  north  side  was  preferable. 

The  chairman,  having  appealed  to  IVIr.  McKim  and  Mr. 
Saint-Gaudens  to  state  whether  narrowing  the  space  between 
the  buildings  on  the  Mall  could  be  done  without  irreparable 
injury  to  the  future  beauty  of  the  Mall,  Mr.  McKim  replied 
that  to  narrow  the  space  by  a  foot  would  be  a  fatal  step,  de- 
structive of  a  great  composition.  "We  have  studied  this  enter- 
prise very  carefully,"  he  said,  "and  have  given  our  tune  and 
thought  to  it.  We  are  firmly  of  the  opinion  that  a  greater  rather 


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THE  AGRICULTURAL  BUILDING  227 

than  a  less  width  is  desirable,  and  that  not  by  a  single  inch 
should  it  be  narrowed." 

Acting  on  the  McKim  letter  and  the  favorable  report  to  the 
Senate  on  the  Newlands  bill,  following  the  hearing,  President 
Roosevelt  wrote  to  Secretary  Wilson  asking  him  to  locate  the 
Agricultural  building  in  accordance  with  the  Park  Commission 
plan  of  the  Mall,  and  the  newspapers  printed  the  fact  that  such 
a  request  had  been  made.  On  the  verification  ^  of  the  report  as 
to  the  President's  action,  the  battle  seemed  won.  Unfortunately 
the  President's  orders  were  disregarded  by  Secretary  Wilson. 

The  tale  of  the  subsequent  proceedings  was  told  by  Presi- 
dent Taft,  who  was  Secretary  of  War  at  the  time  of  the  in- 
cident. 

The  Mall  [said  President  Taft]  was  Mr.  McKim's  chief 
anxiety  lest  Congress  should  forget  that  important  part  of 
the  plan  of  the  improvement  of  Washington.  The  cellar  and 
the  foundation  for  the  Agricultural  Department  building  had 
been  begun,  and  some  $8000  or  $10,000  expended  when  it  came 
to  Mr.  McKim's  knowledge  that  the  building,  if  erected  accord- 
ing to  that  plan,  would  be  a  few  feet  too  high  and  a  few  feet  too 
near  the  centre;  and  he  came  to  prevent  it.  The  Secretary  of 
Agriculture  was  not  disposed  to  regard  that  variation  from  the 
plan  as  substantial,  and  was  very  much  opposed  to  the  change. 

Mr.  McKim  came  to  me,  after  Mr.  Root  left  the  Cabinet,  as 
his  only  true  sympathizer  and  friend,  and  asked  me  to  speak  to 
the  President,  whom  he  also  regarded  as  a  friend  and  sym- 
pathizer, but  one  who  at  times  needed  convincing.  So  I  went 
to  see  the  President  and  explained  to  him  the  situation,  and 
he  at  once  agreed  that  we  ought  to  change  it.  "But,"  said  he, 
"the  trouble  is  with  Uncle  Jimmy,  who  has  a  real  cause  of  com- 
plaint. He  says  that  these  architects  have  delayed  too  long, 

•  Telegrams  exchanged  between  Charles  Moore  and  William  Loeb,  Jr., 
Secretary  to  the  President,  dated  April  18,  1904. 


228  THE  MALL  IN  WASHINGTON 

and  the  public  money  cannot  be  wasted  and  expended  in  this 
way." 

"Well,  "  said  I,  "can't  we  call  a  council,  or  something  of  that 
sort,  and  solemnly  sit  on  the  subject,  and  then  finally  reach  the 
right  conclusion?" 

He  said,  "  We  can,  and  we  will,"  and  we  did.  Mr.  McKim  was 
of  counsel  and  Mr.  Green  ^  and  two  or  three  others.  The  Presi- 
dent took  Mr.  McKim  to  task  at  once  on  the  audacity  of  archi- 
tects who  wait  thirty  and  sixty  days,  until  plans  have  been  com- 
pleted, and  then  come  in  and  attempt  to  make  a  change.  Well, 
that  was  not  a  very  good  beginning,  and  I  am  afraid  that  our 
brother  McKim  thought  the  jig  was  up.  But  it  so  suited  the 
Secretary  of  Agriculture  that  when  there  appeared  a  suggestion 
from  an  engineer  that  possibly  not  $10,000,  or  $5000  would  be 
sacrificed,  but  an  economy  might  be  introduced  in  another  way, 
the  Secretary,  at  the  suggestion  or  the  invitation  of  the  Presi- 
dent, said  that  he  thought  possibly  it  might  be  worked  out  that 
way,  but  the  President  insisted  that  if  we  did,  we  did  not  in- 
tend to  waive  the  criticism  that  we  had  to  make  against  the 
profession  of  architects  by  reason  of  their  delay.  And  so  we 
separated. 

The  Agricultural  building  was  moved.  McKim  and  I  walked 
up  the  steps  of  the  War  Department.  I  said,  "Mr.  McKim, 
I  congratulate  you  on  your  victory."  He  tm-ned  and  looked 
at  me  a  moment  and  said,  "Was  it  a  victory?  Another  such 
and  I  am  dead."  But  it  was  a  victory,  and  it  illustrates  his 
character  in  quietly  pushing  and  pushing  and  pushing  for 
the  highest  ideals  of  his  art,  and  insisting  on  everything  that 
was  best,  and  in  yielding  in  nothing  that  seemed  to  him  a  detri- 
ment and  a  retrograde  step.^ 

After  the  conference,  Mr.  McKun  sent  to  the  President  a 
memorandum  suggesting  that  authority  be  granted  through  the 

'  Bernard  R.  Green,  Superintendent  of  the  Library  of  Congress,  and 
Captain  Sewell,  U.S.  Corps  of  Engineers,  were  present. 

=  Address  of  President  Taft  at  the  McKim  memorial  meeting  of  the 
American  Institute  of  Architects,  held  at  the  Corcoran  Gallery  of  Art, 
Washington.  December  15,  1909. 


THE  CONSULTATIVE  BOARD  229 

Secretary  of  War  that  questions  arising  during  the  coming 
summer  in  reference  to  the  location  of  the  buildings  of  the  De- 
partment of  Agriculture  and  the  National  Museum  be  referred 
to  representatives  of  the  Government  in  collaboration  with 
the  Senate  Park  Commission.  Acting  on  this  suggestion,  the 
President  appointed  as  a  Consultative  Board  the  former  Sen- 
ate Park  Commission  with  the  addition  of  Bernard  R.  Green. 
The  authority  of  the  Senate  Commission  was  held  by  some  to 
be  defective  for  lack  of  the  concurrence  of  the  House;  the  au- 
thority of  the  Consultative  Board,  which  was  simply  an  ex- 
tra-legal creation  of  the  President,  rested  on  the  willingness  of 
those  Government  officials  charged  with  erecting  buildings  to  be 
guided  by  such  expert  advice.  Congress  might  have  put  an  end 
to  this  anomalous  condition  by  creating  a  suitable  commission; 
but  there  were  to  be  six  years  more  of  uncertainty  before  Con- 
gress created  such  a  body. 


CHAPTER  XVI 

FAR  WEST  AND  FAR  EAST:  SAN  FRANCISCO 
MANILA,    BAGUIO 

1904-1905 

WILLL\M  H.  TAFT,  Secretary  of  War,  summoned 
IVIr.  Burnham  to  Washington  on  April  24,  1904, 
and  asked  him  to  go  to  the  PhiUppines  to  make 
plans  for  the  old  city  of  Manila  and  for  the  new  summer  cap- 
ital at  Baguio  —  a  service  he  agreed  to  consider  and  finally 
accepted.  On  May  1,  accompanied  by  Mrs.  Burnham  and 
their  daughter  Margaret,  he  arrived  at  San  Francisco  to  carry 
on  the  work  of  making  a  plan  for  that  city. 

In  February,  1902,  Mr.  Burnham,  accompanied  by  Willis 
Polk,  visited  San  Francisco  to  confer  with  a  committee  of  the 
Merchants  Exchange  with  a  view  to  making  a  plan  for  San 
Francisco,  and  a  contract  was  entered  into.  In  October  he 
made  a  second  trip,  with  his  son  John,  for  the  same  purpose. 
In  January,  1903,  the  Association  for  the  Improvement  and 
Adornment  of  San  Francisco  was  formed  by  about  thuiy  of  the 
leading  citizens.  The  object  of  the  Association  was  to  promote 
the  beautifying  of  the  streets,  public  buildings,  and  parks 
of  San  Francisco,  to  stimulate  civic  pride  in  the  improvement 
and  care  of  private  property,  and,  in  a  word,  to  make  San 
Francisco  a  more  agreeable  city  in  which  to  Uve  and  work. 
The  Outdoor  Art  League  and  the  California  chapter  of  the 
American  Institute  of  Architects  cooperated  with  the  Associa- 
tion. As  a  preliminary  step  Mr.  Burnham  was  invited  to  pre- 


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THE  SAN  FRANCISCO  PLAN  231 

pare  a  comprehensive  plan  for  the  adornment  of  San  Fran- 
cisco. He  accepted  the  task,  did  the  work  without  payment, 
the  Association  defraying  his  actual  expenses  and  the  salaries 
of  those  who  worked  with  him. 

At  Mr.  Burnham's  request  a  bungalow,  designed  by  Willis 
Polk,  was  built  on  a  spur  of  Twin  Peaks.  From  this  point  of 
vantage  he  commanded  an  outlook  over  the  entire  city,  and 
also  he  secured  intervals  for  uninterrupted  study.  ^  This  brief 
visit  was  devoted  to  a  series  of  dinners  calculated  to  stir  the 
community  to  zeal  for  a  plan  of  their  city;  and  on  the  21st  the 
party  were  back  in  Chicago. 

On  July  1 1  Burnham  was  in  Washington  with  Peirce  Ander- 
son, Frederick  Law  Oknsted,  and  W.  S.  Fames,  of  St.  Louis, 
president  of  the  American  Institute  of  Architects,  to  consult  as 
to  the  plans  for  the  new  National  Museum  Building,  designed 
by  Hornblower  &  Marshall,  of  Washington,  for  a  site  on  the 
Mall.  As  this  was  to  be  the  first  building  to  be  located  and 
constructed  on  the  Mall  according  to  the  Plan  of  1901,  natur- 
ally the  design  was  a  matter  of  serious  concern.  Mr.  McKim 
had  worked  out  suggestions  for  changes,  as  appears  from  this 
letter : 

•  The  Association  comprised  James  D.  Phelan,  president;  William  G. 
Invin,  vice-president;  Leon  Sloss,  treasurer;  Thomas  McCaleb,  secretary; 
E.  R.  Taylor,  WiUiam  Grier  Harrison.  E.  W.  Hopkins,  Henry  J.  Crocker, 
Charles  E.  Green,  Alan  Pollock,  R.  J.  Taussig,  A.  H.  Pason,  Walter  S. 
Martin,  L.  M.  King,  Fred  Patek,  John  Partridge,  N.  B.  Greensfelder, 
T.  Cary  Friedlander,  W.  A.  Bissel,  Herbert  E.  Law,  Willis  E.  Da\'is,  E.  0. 
McCormick,  P.  N.  Lilienthal,  Frank  J.  Symmes,  W.  J.  Br>'ne,  F.  W.  Dohr- 
mann,  Bruce  Porter,  Captain  R.  H.  Fletcher.  The  original  membership 
was  afterwards  expanded  to  more  than  400.  See  Report  of  a  Plan  for  San 
Francisco,  by  Daniel  H.  Burnham,  assisted  by  Edward  Bennett,  presented 
to  the  Maj'or  and  Board  of  Supervisors  by  the  Association  for  the  Improve- 
ment and  Adornment  of  San  Francisco.  Edited  by  Edward  F.  O'Day, 
September,  1905. 


232  FAR  WEST  AND  FAR  EAST 

Chicago,  1904 
My  dear  Charles:  I  am  vcr>'  sorr>'  to  hear  that  you  are  out 
of  health.  You  need  a  vacation  and  will  be  wise  if  you  go  soon. 
WTiy  not  do  my  stunt?  An  athlete  comes  and  knocks  at  my 
door  at  7.30  a.m.  He  puts  me  through  for  fifteen  minutes  and 
then  gives  me  a  cold  shower  from  a  sprinkler.  WTien  he  leaves 
me  every  morning  I  can  jump  over  the  house.  The  beauty  of 
it  is  that  he  never  fails,  and  I  have  to  turn  out  and  do  it  regu- 
larly. 

Saint-Gaudens  wTites  that  you  have  a  scheme  for  the  Mu- 
seum doorway.  I  hope  it  does  not  project  above  the  classic 
pediment  line.  We  want  the  very  best;  more  this  time  than 
hereafter,  because  this  precedent  will  rule  in  the  future,  and  do 
so  with  an  iron  hand.  Don't  let  us  have  any  self-assertion.  Old 
George's  serene  spirit  should  rule  throughout ;  let 's  have  no 
jig-step  in  his  minuet. 

Yours 

D.  H.  B. 

Stopping  at  Philadelphia  to  do  business  with  John  Wana- 
maker,  Bumham  retiuned  to  Chicago  in  time  to  join  a  party 
going  by  special  train  to  Nebraska  City  to  celebrate  Paul  Mor- 
ton's appomtment  as  Secretary  of  the  Navy  in  President  Roose- 
velt's Cabinet.  An  old-fashioned  stage-coach  was  requisitioned 
to  convey  the  party  to  Arbor  Lodge,  Mark  Morton  doing  the 
driving.  For  two  days  the  large  party  celebrated,  and  then  re- 
turned to  Chicago  by  special  train.  Next  followed  a  family 
party  at  Edward  Ayer's  home  at  Lake  Geneva,  with  calls  by 
motor-boat  on  the  Charles  Hutchmsons  and  the  Martm  Ryer- 
sons  and  supper  in  a  log  cabin  at  Indian  Mount.  The  first  of 
August  found  the  family  at  Charlevoix  as  guests  of  the  E.  C. 
Wallers,  with  fishing,  golf,  and  cards  for  recreations. 

The  Philippine  decision  was  announced  in  this  telegram: 


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THE  PHILIPPINES  233 

D.  H.  B.  to  Charles  Moore 

August  26,  1904 

Dear  Charles:  I  am  going  to  the  Philippines,  sailing  on  the 
MongoUa,  on  the  13th  of  October.  Why  can  you  not  come 
along?  It  would  be  fine  to  have  the  old  set.  I  may  take  Ander- 
son. The  first  work  is  to  be  in  San  Francisco  from  the  middle 
of  September;  then  we  sail.  Bennett  will  be  in  the  San  Fran- 
cisco planning  and  will  develop  the  things  while  I  am  in  Luzon, 
and  be  ready  to  render  them  when  I  return.  The  work  now  in 
hand  is  dehghtful.  Can  you  come  over  and  spend  a  day  soon 
and  go  into  it  all  —  Chicago,  San  Francisco,  and  Manila. 

Yours  ever 

D.  H.  BURNHAM 

On  hearing  that  Bumham  was  willing  to  undertake  the  work 
in  the  Philippines,  Charles  McKim  wrote  an  enthusiastic  let- 
ter to  Secretary  Taft,  expressing  satisfaction  thereat.  This 
called  out  a  response: 

D.  H.  B.  to  Charles  McKim 

Chicago,  September  14,  1904 

My  dear  Charles  :  I  have  no  doubt  but  that  your  letter  to 
Secretary  Taft  will  strengthen  me  in  his  mind  as  an  artist  and 
a  man  of  good  taste,  although  he  has  been  cordial  beyond  my 
deserts  already.  I  have  not  failed  to  notice  that  whenever  you 
come  in  contact  wdth  any  of  my  friends,  they  seem  aften^-ards 
to  have  an  accession  of  faith  in  me.  It  is  a  fine  thing  in  this 
world  to  have  some  one  strengthen  your  hands  behind  your 
back  as  you  do  for  me.  I  assure  you  that  I  appreciate  it. 

WTiat  you  say  to  me  is  always  heard  with  a  keen  ear.  I 
should  be  disappointed  in  any  large  undertaking  of  mine,  if 
I  did  not  get  your  word  sooner  or  later. 

The  San  Francisco  work  has  been  to  the  fore  about  one  year 
and  the  Philippine  work  about  six  months.  I  should  have 
\sTitten  to  you  before  had  I  not  heard  that  you  were  in  Europe 
when  I  returned  from  the  west  four  months  ago. 


234  FAR  WEST  AND  FAR  EAST 

You  had  evidently  forgotten  that  you  wrote  to  me  before 
concerning  the  Walters  proposition.'  It  is  a  generous  thing  on 
his  part  and  should  surely  be  followed  by  large  gifts  from  others. 

I  am  leaving  here  for  San  Francisco  on  Sunday  and  expect 
to  sail  for  the  Orient  on  the  Mongoha  on  October  13.  Mr.  An- 
derson will  be  my  assistant  in  Luzon  and  Tvlr.  Bennett  in  San 
Francisco.  The  latter  is  the  man  who  was  on  the  West  Point 
design  which  Stanford  White  has  praised  for  its  beauty  in  all 
companies  and  places.  What  a  bully  fellow  Stanford  White  is! 
His  sort  warms  the  cockles  of  one's  heart. 

We  are  ver>'  far  advanced  now  with  the  Field  Museum. 
I  have  been  wishing  you  could  see  it  and  hope  you  can  on  my 
return.  1  feel  pretty  confident  you  are  going  to  like  the  work. 
With  best  regards,  and  good-bye, 

Yours  as  ever 

D.  H.  B. 

The  Diary  records : 

September  20.  D.  H.  B.  and  Edward  Bennett  en  route  for 
San  Francisco  over  the  new  way  through  Salt  Lake ;  aknost  the 
first  train  to  cross  this  unprovement.  It  was  afternoon  and  the 
scene  w-as  one  of  superlative  beauty,  the  foreground  pure  white 
salt  and  the  lake  and  mountains  like  a  dehcate  opal,  the  clouds 
matching.  1  never  agam  expect  to  see  a  scene  of  such  unearthly 
beauty.  Great  white  pehcans  were  floatmg  on  the  pinkish,  sil- 
very water. 

September  21.  No  hay  fever  to-day. 

September  22.  Went  out  with  Willis  Polk  to  see  the  new 
shanty  on  Twin  Peaks.  McCaleb  met  us.  Keith  came  to  lunch. 

September  27.  D.  H.  B.  dined  with  Pollock  and  friends  in 
honor  of  Charles  Schwab. 

September  28.  Up  quite  early  and  at  noon  started  up  for 
permanent  residence  at  Twin  Peaks.  The  afternoon  and  eve- 
ning of  surpassmg  beauty ;  our  shanty  a  charmer ;  Polk  came  with 
a  Jap,  Polk  cooked.  Had  soup,  steak,  salad,  and  omelet,  with 

■  Henry  Walters  bought  the  Villa  Mirafiore  for  the  American  Academy 
in  Rome  and  held  it  till  the  Academy  could  pay. 


ON  TWIN  PEAKS  235 

good,  red  wine ;  the  best  dinner  we  ever  had.  We  all  three  sat  on 
the  east  porch  until  10  o'clock  and  saw  the  moon  rise  over 
Diable  in  the  distance  and  shine  on  the  China  basin  far  below 
us.  We  reluctantly  retired  at  last,  each  on  his  cot,  without 
sheets  or  pillows. 

September  29.  Up  at  7  a.m.  Polk  cooked  breakfast;  then 
came  IVIcFadden  and  others;  then  the  new  Jap,  who  calls  him- 
self Fred.  We  are  to  try  him  at  §30  per  month.  Lunch  at 
shack,  Bennett  and  I;  Polk  came  to  dinner  and  we  three  slept 
in  the  shack. 

September  30.  Burnham  and  Bennett  breakfasted  at  the 
shack  7  a.m.;  very  good;  went  to  see  Schwerin  of  the  Pacific 
Mail  and  lunched  with  him;  then  to  Keith's^  and  Dr.  Taylor's, 
and  all  three  went  up  to  the  shack  and  lunched  with  Mr.  Ben- 
nett ;  then  sat  on  the  hill  to  talk  over  the  landscape.  The  house 
is  being  ceiled  inside;  heavy  fog  and  wind.  Bumham  and  Ben- 
nett dined  together  at  shack;  very  good.  Bed  at  10  after  read- 
ing and  talking  before  the  fire. 

October  2.  Up  at  7  a.m.  breakfast;  went  to  Rev.  Joseph 
Worcester's  church;  then  back  to  lunch.  Afternoon  and  eve- 
ning spent  on  the  problems  of  the  end  of  the  Panhandle;  Bum- 
ham  making  many  arrangements  of  this  with  his  own  hands; 
dinner  at  shack  and  bed  at  10.30. 

'  William  Keith,  known  as  "the  prophet  painter,"  was  born  in  Aberdeen- 
shire, Scotland,  in  1839;  he  came  to  New  York  with  his  mother  in  1851,  and 
became  a  wood-engraver  for  Harper  &  Brothers  and  others.  In  1859  he 
went  to  California  and  began  to  paint  landscapes.  At  the  age  of  thirty  he 
studied  at  the  Diisseldorf  Academy,  from  whose  influences  he  slowly  liber- 
ated himself.  A  great  mimic,  he  enjoyed  vastly  the  visits  of  congenial  friends 
to  his  studio  on  Montgomery  Street,  in  the  heart  of  Old  San  Francisco.  A 
daily  visitor  was  the  Reverend  Joseph  Worcester,  whose  home  on  Russian 
Hill  always  welcomed  Mr.  Keith.  John  Muir,  the  naturalist;  Edward  Robe- 
son Taylor,  poet;  Theodore  Hit  tell,  historian,  and  a  multitude  of  other 
San  Francisco  personages  frequented  the  Old  Studio,  where  Keith  painted 
dazzling  peaks  and  misty  valleys,  and  taught  boys  and  girls  to  love  nature 
and  to  attempt  to  paint  it.  On  one  of  his  visits  to  California  George  Inness 
shared  the  Keith  studio.  Mr.  Burnham  was  in  and  out  of  the  studio  during 
his  various  visits;  he  was  an  ardent  admirer  of  Keith's  work  and  owned  a 
number  of  his  paintings.  Keith  died  in  Berkeley,  California,  in  1911.  His 
fame  is  such  as  to  bring  many  spurious  Keiths  into  the  market. 


236  FAR  WEST  AND  FAR  EAST 

October  3.  Lunched  at  the  Union  League  Club  with  Schwerin 
and  his  friends;  saw  Senator  Newlands  and  others  and  came 
back  to  Twin  Peaks  where  we  dined,  and  spent  the  evening. 

October  4.  Up  at  6.30;  breakfasted,  and  took  walk  on  the 
highest  peaks  studying  lay  of  the  ground;  Phelan  called;  spent 
day  at  work. 

October  11.  Went  to  Fort  Mason,  picked  up  Captain  Feisen, 
who  drove  us  over  to  see  Colonel  Pitcher  of  the  28th  Infantry 
at  the  Presidio;  dinner  at  the  Bohemian  Club  as  guest  of  Mr. 
James  Phelan.  There  were  fifteen  or  sixteen  others. 

October  12.  Gave  luncheon  to  friends  in  San  Francisco  at  the 
Pacific  Union  Club;  Mayor  Phelan,  Edward  Ayer  of  Chicago, 
Edward  Eyre  of  San  Francisco,  Alan  Pollock,  Willis  Polk, 
Edward  Bennett  of  Chicago,  McCaleb,  Edward  Hopkins  of 
San  Francisco,  Colonel  Pitcher,  U.S.A.,  William  Bourn.  Din- 
ner with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Polk. 

October  13.  Went  on  board  the  Mongolia  for  Honolulu  and 
Yokohama;  saw  the  three  boys  on  the  roof  as  we  left,  —  Polk, 
Bennett,  and  Dutton;  lunch  on  steamer;  party  D.  H.  Burnham 
and  wife  and  daughter  Margaret,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Edward  E. 
Eyre,  General  and  Mrs.  Corbin. 

October  16.  General  Corbin  and  D.  H.  B.  attended  divine 
worship  together. 

October  19.  Landed  at  Honolulu  about  11  a.m.  and  w'ent  out 
to  the  Beach  Hotel. 

October  23.   Crossed  the  180th  and  lost  this  day. 

October  30.  Arrived  at  Yokohama  at  noon ;  took  j  inrickshaws 
for  Grand  Hotel. 

October  31.  Burnhams  and  the  Ayers  went  to  Tokio  by  rail, 
took  rooms  at  the  Imperial  Hotel,  rickshawed  around  wonder- 
ful walls  covered  with  pine  trees;  dined  at  the  American  Minis- 
ter's, Lloyd  Griscom's;  guests  —  Lieutenant-General  Sir  Wil- 
liam Nicholson,  English  Minister  MacDonald  and  wife,  Belgian 
Minister  and  wife,  Japanese  Ministers  of  War  and  Navy  and 
Foreign  Affairs,  Countess  Oyama  and  daughter,  Messrs.  Wil- 
son, Robson,  and  others. 

November  1.   Burnham  and  Eyre  called  at  the  Legations; 


WILLIAM  KEITH 


JAPAN  237 

dined  with  Huntington  Wilson  and  wife  at  the  house  of  the 
First  Secretary. 

November  2.  Party  rickshawed  all  day;  lunched  at  Mano 
Park  Restaurant  on  the  border  of  the  Lotus  Lake;  then  Sheba, 
guide,  said :  "Sho  Gun  buried  here,  but  they  keep  his  spirit  over 
there  in  that  Temple." 

November  3.  All  went  to  a  review  of  the  Japanese  troops 
(8000  men  in  line)  by  Mikado  and  Crown  Prince;  luncheon 
with  Ferguson,  Second  Secretary  of  the  Legation  at  his  house; 
coffee  in  the  garden;  met  Miller,  our  Consul-General  at  New 
Chwang;  then  Eyre  and  Burnham  went  to  the  Sheba  Temples 
by  rickshaw. 

November  7.  Party  at  hotel  in  Nikko;  went  to  see  the  Tem- 
ples and  waterfalls. 

November  9.  Lunched  with  the  Griscoms  and  went  to  the 
lawn  party  of  Sir  Charles  and  Lady  MacDonald,  who  are  the 
British  Legation  people.  Dined  at  the  hotel  as  it  was  Mrs. 
Burnham's  birthday;  she  had  Mr.  Priestley  as  guest,  as  it  was 
also  his  birthday. 

November  1 1 .  Went  to  large  garden  of  Marquis  "  Someone  " ; 
then  to  Huntington  Wilson's  for  lunch;  then  to  Mikado's  gar- 
den party  where  we  saw  him  and  his  family;  dinner  at  Marsh's, 
Naval  attache  of  the  Legation. 

November  19.  Katayama,  the  Imperial  architect,  took  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Burnham  to  the  Imperial  Gardens  after  lunching 
with  us. 

November  23.  At  the  Yaami  Hotel  at  Kioto  where  we  found 
the  Eyres;  went  to  Chouin  Temple;  saw  geisha  dancing. 

November  24.  Saw  the  temples,  and  in  the  evening  saw  the 
great  Japanese  wrestling  matches. 

November  27.  Mrs.  Burnham  and  Margaret  went  on  board 
the  Mongolia,  bound  for  Honolulu. 

December  L  D.  H.  B.,  the  Ayers,  Captain  Moss,  and  Peirce 
Anderson  started  South  early  in  the  morning  on  the  S.S.  Doric, 
saw  the  Great  Archipelago  and  the  Inland  Sea  all  day. 

December  3.  Burnham  and  Anderson  worked  over  city  prob- 
lems; weather  beautiful. 


238  FAR  WEST  AND  FAR  EAST 

December  5.  Heavy  storm  at  night;  slight  qualm  which 
passed  away  as  soon  as  in  bed. 

December  7.  Manila.  Up  early,  all  packed ;  young  Hathaway, 
the  secretary  of  Mr.  Forbes,  came  out  early  on  the  Government 
launch  to  take  us  to  shore.  Anderson  and  I  were  given  the 
courtesy  of  the  port  of  Manila,  which  meant  that  our  baggage 
was  not  examined.  Went  at  once  to  the  house  of  Commissioner 
W.  Cameron  Forbes,^  who  has  charge  of  commerce  and  the  con- 
stabulary of  the  Philippines. 

December  8.  D.  H.  Burnham  and  Anderson  at  the  house  of 
W.  Cameron  Forbes;  Mr.  Forbes  arrived  from  a  trip  up  the 
Islands  with  Governor  Wright  ^  and  spent  the  day  driving 
around  the  city  with  Burnham  and  Anderson.  D.  H.  B.  dined 
at  the  Corbins'  with  the  Ayers  and  Robinsons.  General  Corbin 
and  stall  and  our  three  went  to  Camp  McKinlcy  by  river  on 
the  Government  launch  in  the  afternoon  and  saw  a  wonderful 
sunset  coming  back. 

December  9.  Drove  around  the  city  with  Mr.  Forbes  and 
went  out  to  the  battleship  Wisconsin  to  dine  with  the  Captain, 
the  Corbins,  the  Tuckers,  and  others.  Admiral  Sterlmg  also  at 
the  dinner  on  board,  as  it  is  his  flagship;  minstrel  show  in  the 
evenmg  and  supper  on  board  at  midnight. 

December  10.  Arrived  home  at  1.30  a.m.  and  slept  until  7.45, 
then  had  shower  and  breakfast  and  took  carriage  with  Ander- 
son for  the  city  where  the  morning  w^as  spent  seemg  members  of 
the  Navy  and  working  over  the  problems  of  the  new  city  plan; 
lunch  at  Mr.  Forbes's;  General  Allen,  Colonel  Harbin,  and 
another  colonel,  all  of  them  being  officers  of  the  constabulary, 
were  present.  In  the  evening  Forbes,  Anderson,  and  Burnham 
called  on  Governor  Luke  E.  Wright.  As  we  were  coming  away, 

'  W.  Cameron  Forbes,  of  Milton,  Massachusetts,  a  grandson  of  Ralph 
Waldo  Emerson;  member  of  the  Philippine  Commission,  and  secretary  of 
commerce  and  police  in  the  Philippino  Government,  1904-08;  vice-gover- 
nor, 1908-09;  governor-general,  1909-13.  Mr.  Forbes  is  unmarried  and  the 
men  kept  bachelors-hall  with  him. 

*  Luke  E.  Wright,  of  Memphis,  Tennessee,  president  of  the  Philippine 
Commission;  governor-general,  1904-06;  ambassador  to  Japan,  1906-07; 
Secretary  of  War  in  President  Roosevelt's  cabinet,  1908-09. 


IN  MANILA  239 

Governor  Wright  cut  his  finger  on  a  creese  which  the  Sultan 
of  Sulu  had  just  given  him. 

December  11.  Up  at  5.45  a.m.  Forbes,  Anderson,  and  Bum- 
ham  took  Navy  tug  up  the  river,  then  to  the  lake  and  across, 
then  up  the  river  to  the  falls;  two  la\\yers.  Colonels  Baker  and 
Harbin,  General  Allen,  all  aboard ;  also  several  others.  Going 
up  to  the  falls  we  went  in  a  dug-out,  each  man  paddled  by  two 
Filipinos;  went  to  Pasig  Town  at  9  p.m.,  as  we  were  coming 
down,  and  called  on  Governor  Daneil  of  that  provmce,  who  had 
a  fiesta  that  day.  Found  him  expecting  us  and  we  sat  down  to 
a  sumptuous  dinner  at  10  p.m.  Reached  home  at  12  o'clock. 

December  14.  All  up  early;  drove  to  Billibid  Prison  and  sur- 
veyed the  town  from  the  tower;  dropped  Forbes  at  the  fort 
offices  and  Anderson  and  I  went  to  our  offices  in  the  Municipal 
Building.  We  had  a  victoria  and  span  to  ourselves  all  the 
time,  and  a  China  boy  body  servant  for  the  two  of  us.  Spent 
afternoon  over  the  plan  of  Manila;  dined  on  battleship  Wis- 
consm  with  Admiral  Sterling,  the  Eyres,  Corbins,  and  others. 
The  Ayers  and  Corbins  left  on  their  launch  to  take  the  Ingalls 
for  a  trip  among  the  Islands. 

December  15.  Went  with  Dean  Worcester,^  one  of  the  Com- 
missioners, to  the  insane  hospital  and  inspected  it;  then  to  their 
own  offices  in  the  IMunicipal  Building;  dined  at  home  with 
Forbes,  Admiral  Sterling,  Captain  Cotton,  who  stayed  all 
night,  also  several  Filipinos. 

December  18.  D.  H.  B.  sick  at  Forbes's;  Doctor  Strong  called, 
said  no  danger,  and  gave  medicine. 

December  19.  Went  to  dinner  at  house  of  Governor  Wright  as 
guest  of  honor,  about  20  men  being  present. 

December  20.  Up  at  4.30  a.m.  Took  special  train  for  the 
North  with  Commissioners  Forbes  and  Worcester  and  Mrs. 
Worcester,  Higgins  the  railroad  manager,  and  Major  Carter; 

'  Dean  Conant  Worcester,  member  of  the  Steere  Scientific  Expedition  to 
the  Philippine  Islands,  1887-88;  one  of  the  two  conductors  of  the  Menage 
Scientific  Expedition,  1900-03;  professor  in  Michigan  University,  1895- 
99;  member  of  the  Philippine  Commission  and  secretary'  of  the  Insular 
Government,  1901-13.  Now  secretary'  to  the  president  of  Visayan  Refining 
Company;  resides  at  Cebu,  P.I. 


240  FAR  WEST  AND  FAR  EAST 

arrived  at  the  end  of  the  road  at  noon  and  lunched  under  the 
station  shed.  Took  two  four-horse  teams,  changing  horses 
once,  and  arrived  at  Camp  "4,"  Colonel  Kennon's,  at  about  7; 
were  delightfully  entertained  at  dinner  and  by  the  native  band. 
Mrs.  Kennon  a  very  delightful  woman  and  hostess.  Forbes, 
Worcester,  and  Burnham  occupied  the  same  room  on  separate 
cots  at  the  Kennons'  for  the  night. 

December  21.  Forbes  and  Worcester  went  ahead  from  the 
Kennons'  to  Baguio  early  in  the  forenoon.  Burnham,  Ander- 
son, and  Dr.  C.  went  after  lunch  very  regretfully.  They 
walked  over  new  road  and  took  horses  at  the  base  of  the  moun- 
tain trail  and  reached  Baguio  Sanitarium  at  7  p.m.  Dined  in 
the  latter  place  and  slept  in  Wright's  summer  house. 

December  22.  Breakfasted  at  the  Sanitarium  at  Baguio;  then 
went  up  on  the  proposed  Governor's  location  near  Wright's 
dwelling  house;  also  walked  around  the  town  site  below; 
lunched  at  the  Sanitarium,  dined  at  oiu*  own  house,  our  China 
boys  having  arrived.  Bed  9  p.m.,  D.  H.  B.  slightly  uneasy 
inside. 

December  25.  Christmas.  All  three,  Burnham,  Forbes,  and 
Anderson,  spent  the  day  at  Baguio  at  the  Governor's  house; 
Colonel  Knight  and  Major  Penn  of  General  Corbin's  staff  were 
with  us. 

December  28.  D.  H.  B.  in  house  all  day. 

December  30.  D.  H.  B.,  Peirce  Anderson,  and  Governor  Pack 
went  down  to  the  Big  Spring  in  the  morning,  and  at  1  p.m., 
Burnham,  Anderson,  Hayw'ood,  the  engmeer,  and  Mrs.  Wor- 
cester started  for  Kennon's  Camp  "4";  went  to  the  bottom  of 
the  Big  Zig-Zag,  walked  dow^n  near  the  bottom,  took  horse, 
rode  to  Kennon's,  reached  there  at  7  p.m.,  after  six  hours  ride 
(and  a  very  hard  one)  on  the  way  down  to  the  Zig-Zag. 

Saw  far  away  over  the  mountains  the  Langayen  Gulf  out  at 
sea,  a  most  magnificent  sight;  found  Forbes  at  the  Kennons', 
dined  delightfully  with  him  and  his  wife,  the  band  playing, 
went  to  bed  at  10.30,  but  D.  H.  B.  did  not  sleep  all  night  —  too 
tired. 

December  31.   D.  H.  B.,  Forbes,  Anderson,  and  Mrs.  Wor- 


*- 

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»»*     ^in^^P^^v    ■ 

BAGUIO,  PHILIPPINE  ISLANDS 


BREAKFAST  PORCH,  W.  CAMERON  FORBES  S  HOUSE,  BAGUIO,  P.I. 


BUSINESS  AND  PLEASURE  241 

cester  were  called  at  4.30,  breakfasted  at  5.30  and  took  wagons 
at  Camp  "4"  and  started  down  the  road  for  Dagupan,  the  head 
of  the  railway,  and  reached  the  latter  town  at  1  p.m.,  after  a 
very  fatiguing  journey;  found  special  train  there  with  Higgins, 
general  manager,  in  charge.  Had  lunch  on  board.  Arrived  at 
Manila  at  7  and  dined  at  home,  Forbes's  house. 

January  2,  1905.  D.  H.  B.  and  Anderson  along  river  front 
looking  at  same  in  the  city;  called  on  Mrs.  Corbin  and  Governor 
Wright,  who  were  holding  receptions. 

January  5.  Spent  until  noon  over  the  transportation  house 
and  drawing  money  from  the  Government  for  expenses;  Henry 
Peabody  of  Boston  at  luncheon;  went  out  to  the  Rainbow, 
flagship  of  Admiral  Train,  and  spent  the  evening. 

January  6.  Up  at  5  a.m.,  breakfasted  with  the  Corbins  at 
6  A.M.  Drove  to  Camp  McKinley  with  General  Corbin  and 
came  back  with  him  in  the  launch,  landing  at  the  Monument 
at  9.30;  thence  Burnham  went  to  City  Hall  where  he  spent  the 
morning  with  Anderson. 

January  8.  Drove  to  Monvmient  and  met  General  Corbin  on 
the  Government  launch  and  went  over  to  Cavite. 

January  11.  Went  out  on  hand-cars;  spent  afternoon  with 
the  commissioners. 

January  12.  Forbes  breakfasted  early  and  disappeared; 
Burnham  and  Anderson  breakfasted  at  8.30,  went  to  the  State 
building  and  spent  some  time ;  came  home  to  lunch  with  Forbes 
and  Major  Anderson.  Dinner  at  General  Corbin's;  Governor 
Wright  and  Admiral  Sterling  were  present,  also  General  Ran- 
dall and  Captain  Clover  of  the  battleship  Wisconsin. 

January  16.  At  three  went  to  Monument  dock  and  found 
Forbes;  boarded  launch  and  General  Corbin  came  aboard.  We 
left  Manila  at  4  p.m.  for  good,  to  take  S.S.  Fremont.  Mr. 
Forbes  came  on  board  and  left  us  at  9  on  his  own  launch.  We 
slept  on  board  ship;  noise  of  loading  hemp  all  night. 

January  17.  Up  at  7.30;  had  a  good  sea-water  bath,  took 
breakfast,  went  on  deck;  ship  went  over  to  Maravales  and 
anchored  in  the  bay  to  take  on  men  and  complete  the  quaran- 
tine, then  sailed  at  10.45  a.m.  for  Hong  Kong;  beautiful  day 


242  FAR  WEST  AND  FAR  EAST 

on  the  China  Sea,  cahn  weather,  found  Mr.  Bcechboard  of 
Hudson,  Michigan,  on  board.  We  had  met  him  at  Governor 
Pack's  at  Baguio. 

January  18.  On  board  Fremont  in  China  Sea,  out  of  sight  of 
land;  weather  beautiful,  water  entirely  smooth;  evening  air 
grew  cooler  and  we  enjoyed  it;  still  wore  white  flannels;  Ander- 
son worked  on  General  Corbin's  house;  not  a  ship  in  sight  all 
day.  This  is  the  fiftieth  anniversary  of  the  arrival  of  Edwin 
Burnham,  wife,  and  five  children  in  Chicago,  where  they  ar- 
rived on  the  evening  of  the  18th  of  January,  1855,  at  the  old  dock 
of  the  Michigan  Central  Railroad,  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Street; 
Daniel  H.  Burnham  then  eight  years  and  four  months  old. 

January  19.  We  were  coming  into  magnificent  harbor  of 
Hong  Kong;  scene  was  most  interesting;  went  ashore  in  launch, 
found  a  Chinese  guide,  then  went  up  on  the  mountain  by  rail 
and  chair  and  to  China  town;  then  to  the  ship  on  a  sampan. 

January  20.  Watched  the  loading  and  the  harbor,  especially 
life  in  the  sampans.  Up  anchor  at  1  and  started  for  Japan; 
many  men-of-war  in  the  harbor.  This  was  my  wedding  day. 

January  21.  Worked  on  Baguio  in  the  afternoon  and  eve- 
ning. 

January  22.  Worked  on  Baguio  scheme  all  day. 

January  24.  Arrived  at  Moji;  worked  on  Baguio  and  amused 
ourselves. 

January  26.  Finished  coaling  and  started  for  Inland  Sea 
and  Kobe;  spent  afternoon  going  through  the  Inland  Sea. 

January  27.  Landed  at  Kobe  early  in  the  forenoon;  took 
lunch  at  Oriental  Hotel,  then  cars  to  Osaka,  then  to  the  old 
castle  of  Hideoshe;  then  cars  to  Kyoto  and  put  up  at  the 
Yaama  Hotel. 

January  28.  Visited  the  Temple  and  the  Mikado's  summer 
palace,  the  cloisonne  makers  and  the  National  Fencing  and 
Wrestling  School.  Anderson  went  to  Osaka  for  a  photographic 
kit  and  did  not  return  at  night. 

January  29.  Visited  the  very  splendid  palace  in  town  and 
again  the  cloisonne  makers;  this  is  a  perfection.  Read  in  the 
evening  while  the  young  men  went  to  the  theatre. 


BACK  IN  JAPAN  243 

January  30.  D.  H.  B.  and  Anderson,  with  the  guide, 
"Sano,"  went  to  the  great  new  temples  at  Tokio  and  then  to 
the  Bishop's  house,  which  is  Hideoshe's  old  palace. 

January  31.  Arrived  at  Tokio  at  9  a.m.  and  went  to  the  Im- 
perial Hotel;  Huntington  Wilson  met  Bumham  with  his  car- 
riage and  took  him  to  the  Club;  they  rickshawed  to  see  the 
Stairs,  then  to  the  train  for  Nikko,  where  we  arrived  at 
8.30  P.M. 

February  2.  Went  to  the  Greay  Avenue,  took  train  for  Tokio 
at  9  A.M.  Spent  night  at  the  house  of  Hon.  Huntington  Wilson, 
dinmg  there  with  Marchioness  Oyama  and  daughter  and  other 
guests. 

February  4.  Went  aboard  Siberia  with  Sano ;  Anderson  came 
in  the  afternoon;  ship  sailed  about  6.30  p.m.  About  60  passen- 
gers, among  others  about  a  dozen  young  Russian  officers  pa- 
roled from  Port  Arthur,  which  fell  a  month  ago.  Very  com- 
fortable quarters. 

February  6.  On  board  Siberia.  Ashmead-Bartlett  and  Mr. 
Hamilton  of  Tokio  with  us  at  the  Captain's  table. 

February  7.  Met  the  buyers  of  Marshall  Field  &  Company, 
Carson-Pirie-Scott&  Company;  played  cards  in  the  smoking- 
room. 

February  8.  We  were  called  by  Ah  Sin,  who  comes  in  and 
valets  us,  bringing  coffee,  and  who  takes  care  of  our  clothes; 
altogether  a  good  servant. 

February  13.  Arrived  at  Honolulu  and  went  to  the  hotel  to 
find  Mrs.  Bumham  and  Margaret;  visited  the  gardens  and 
aquarium. 

February  19.  Saw  land  at  sea  and  by  8  o'clock  health  officer 
of  San  Francisco  came  on  board;  at  dock  at  10  o'clock,  going 
through  the  customs,  and  in  the  afternoon  D.  H.  B.  and  Ander- 
son moved  up  to  Bennett's  shack  on  Twin  Peaks,  where  they 
dined  and  slept. 

February  20.  D.  H.  B.,  Anderson,  and  Bennett  breakfasted 
at  Twin  Peaks  and  spent  the  day.  Mrs.  Bumham  and  Mar- 
garet came  up  in  the  afternoon  and  lunched  with  the  gentle- 
men. 


244  FAR  WEST  AND  FAR  EAST 

February  21.  James  D.  Phclan  came  up  and  stayed  to  lunch- 
eon; D.  H.  B.  went  down  with  him  in  his  automobile  and  re- 
turned at  dinner  time  with  the  ladies. 

February  22.  D.  H.  B.,  Anderson,  and  Bennett  breakfasted 
together  at  T\san  Peaks,  after  which  Bennett  went  down  in 
auto  and  called  at  the  offices  of  D.  H.  Burnham  &  Company 
and  met  the  two  brothers  Stern,  who  gave  him  an  order  for  a 
tall  building  on  Union  Square,  San  Francisco;  then  met  Lloyd 
and  others  and  gave  them  figures  on  the  cost  of  the  proposed 
Masonic  Building;  then  saw  De  Young  and  Dutton  about 
De  Young's  new  additions  to  the  Chronicle  Building;  then 
went  up  to  Twin  Peaks  in  auto  with  Willis  Polk,  Anderson, 
and  Keith,  the  artist,  all  of  whom  lunched  and  dined  at  the 
shack,  Bennett  and  Anderson  going  dowoi  town  to  leave  room 
enough  for  the  three  others. 

February  23.  Worked  with  the  boys  all  day  and  evening; 
went  to  bed  and  then  got  up  again  and  went  to  walk  until 
morning  with  Bennett  and  Anderson,  a  dark  mood  giving  away 
to  light. 

February  24.  Mrs.  Burnham  and  Margaret  came  in  auto 
and  took  D.  H.  B.  to  Uncle  Joe  Worcester's  and  Mr.  Keith's; 
returned  to  Twin  Peaks  with  Mrs.  Burnham,  who  stayed  to 
lunch.  Ed  Hopkins,  Babcock,  and  other  gentlemen  came  to 
see  us  at  Twin  Peaks,  and  late  in  the  day  Anderson  left  for  the 
city,  proposing  to  go  home  Saturday  morning. 

February  26.  D.  H.  B.  excused  himself  to  De  Young  from 
going  to  his  house  to  dine  because  of  sore  foot;  stayed  in  shack 
all  day  and  in  bed  quite  early. 

February  27.  Called  on  De  Young  and  others  and  came  back 
to  Twm  Peaks  to  dme;  lunched  with  Keith  and  Polk  at  the 
restaurant  near  the  studio;  but  Muir  did  not  come. 

March  2.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Burnham  dined  at  Mrs.  Crocker's. 

March  9.  D.  H.  B.,  wife,  and  daughter  reached  Chicago  at 
9  A.M.  Went  to  the  office  and  stayed  all  day. 

March  12.  (Sunday.)  At  home  all  day.  Margaret  and 
George  Lord,  Peabodys,  Ewens,  Woodyatts,  Curtis  Remy,  and 
others  present  during  the  day. 


THE  DIVE  INTO  THE  ORIENT  245 

Looking  back  over  the  Philippine  work,  Mr.  Bumham  felt 
that  it  was  good.  These  feelings  he  summed  up  in  this  letter: 

D.  H.  B.  to  Charles  Moore 

March  13,  1905 

The  dive  into  the  Orient  has  been  like  a  dream.  The  lands, 
the  people,  and  their  customs  are  all  very  strange  and  of  ab- 
sorbing interest.  It  surprises  me  to  find  how  much  this  trip 
has  modified  my  views,  not  only  regarding  the  extreme  East, 
but  regarding  ourselves  and  all  our  European  precedents.  It 
will  take  time  to  get  a  true  perspective  of  it  all  in  my  mind. 

I  have  thought  of  you  constantly  on  my  trip,  though  more 
particularly  while  in  San  Francisco.  The  scheme  of  streets  and 
parks  for  that  city  is  on  paper  and  is  a  superb  thing.  We  come 
now  to  the  compilation  of  the  Report.  ...  I  have  n't  even  a 
faint  hope  that  you  can  join  me  in  this;  but  if  it  were  possible  it 
would  make  my  skies  clear. 

The  Manila  scheme  is  very  good.  The  Baguio  scheme  is 
emerging  and  begins  to  warrant  a  hope  of  something  unusual 
among  cities. 


CHAPTER  XVII 
THE  HARVARD  YARD  — A  DIP  INTO  THE  WILDERNESS 

1905 

IT  was  Mr.  Burnham's  practice  each  day  to  note  briefly 
in  his  Diary  the  people  he  met,  the  topics  discussed,  the 
decisions  reached,  and  any  circumstances  the  date  of 
which  might  be  important.  This  he  did  for  his  omti  protection 
against  people  who  either  from  bad  memory  or  design  might 
make  misstatements  as  to  past  occurrences.  These  diaries, 
hastily  'vsTitten  as  they  are,  give  quick  glimpses  of  the  hfe, 
both  social  and  professional,  of  a  surpassingly  busy  man,  and 
also  reveal  his  method  of  work.  The  Diary  for  1905  has  this 
brief  record: 

March  24.  D.  H.  B.  breakfasted  at  A.  B.  Wells's  house  in 
Southbridge,  and  later  joined  Anderson  at  the  Touraine  Hotel 
in  Boston.  Went  with  Anderson  out  to  Harvard,  where  we  met 
Frank  Millet;  spent  the  day;  dined  with  Professor  Norton  and 
others  at  Norton's  house;  and  took  midnight  train  for  New 
York. 

Thereby  hangs  a  tale.  Of  the  visit  to  "  Shady  Hill,"  the  Nor- 
ton home,  Mr.  Bumham  left  no  further  record.  Miss  Sara 
Norton  \sTites  that  her  father  "had  a  real,  a  great  admiration 
for  Mr.  Bumham;  his  work  in  Chicago,  his  attitude  to  his  pro- 
fession, his  aims,  his  large  and  generous  intelligence  —  if  I  can 
so  describe  it  —  and  when  they  met  it  was  on  terms  of  cordial 
understanding  and,  I  believe,  general  agreement.  I  remember 
clearly  the  pleasure  Mr.  Burnham's  visits  (not  frequent  and 


r;c):fJy£  vroNiy  on 


DANIEL  H.  BURNH.\M  AND  FRANTv  D.  MILLET 
From  a  drawing  by  Simmons 


CHARLES  FRANCIS  ADAMS  247 

usually  combined  with  some  committee  business  or  the  like) 
brought  to  my  father.  It  was  partly  through  acquaintance 
with  Mr.  Burnham  that  my  father  came  to  have,  in  his  later 
years,  such  a  warm  belief  in  the  destiny  the  West  was  carving 
for  itself,  through  its  energy  and  high  civic  purposes,  which 
men  like  Mr.  Burnham  embodied." 

The  particular  business  of  this  visit  was  to  devise  means  to 
bring  back  to  the  Harvard  College  Yard  that  sense  of  order 
and  unity  which  the  early  builders  so  clearly  understood,  but 
which  their  successors  during  the  past  seventy-five  years  have 
carelessly  or  ignorantly  disregarded. 

On  October  12,  1904,  Charles  Francis  Adams  had  written 
to  Mr.  Burnham  that  it  was  the  practice  of  the  Board  of  Over- 
seers of  Harvard  University  annually  to  appoint  from  their  own 
body  and  from  the  community  at  large  committees  to  visit  the 
diiYerent  departments  and  courses  of  instruction.^ 

The  organization  of  these  committees  [he  wrote]  devolves  on 
me  as  chairman  of  the  standing  committee  on  Reports  and  Res- 
olutions. Among  these  committees  is  one  which  has  given  me 
a  great  deal  of  trouble.  I  consider  it  the  most  important  of  all 
the  committees.  The  chairman  is  Professor  Charles  Eliot  Nor- 
ton and  its  province  relates  to  all  questions  of  art  and  archi- 
tecture connected  with  the  University,  whether  courses  of  in- 
struction or  architectural  results  projected  or  achieved. 

The  most  glaring  failure  in  connection  with  Harvard  Univer- 
sity administration  during  the  last  seventy  years  has  been  the 
efforts  at  architecture.  The  Yard,  as  we  call  it,  is  a  standing 
reproach  to  us  and  to  the  generation  which  preceded  us.  An 
architectural  crazy-quilt,  about  every  educated  architect  for 

'  Mr.  Millet  and  Mr.  Anderson  were  Han-ard  College  graduates;  and 
Mr.  Burnham's  degree  of  Master  of  Arts,  bestowed  by  Harvard  in  1893, 
entitled  him  to  all  the  powers  and  privileges  of  a  graduate,  including  the 
right  to  vote  for  members  of  the  Board  of  Overseers. 


248  THE  HARVARD  YARD 

the  last  fifty  years  has  tried  his  hand  at  it;  and  each  one,  speak- 
ing generally,  has  left  it  a  little  worse  than  it  was  before. 

The  only  possible  remedy  is  to  agitate  the  matter  and  thus 
gradually  to  work  out  a  more  satisfactory  result. 

Professor  Norton,  since  he  became  a  member  of  the  Board 
of  Overseers,  has  had  this  matter  in  charge.  You  are  one  of 
those  to  whom  the  credit  belongs  of  having  achieved  the  great 
result  worked  out  in  the  Chicago  Exposition  of  1893.  You  have 
since,  I  believe,  been  connected  with  the  Plan  for  the  perma- 
nent improvements  at  Washington.  I  write  on  behalf  of  the 
committee  having  the  matter  in  charge  to  ask  if  you  will  con- 
sent to  serve  on  the  committee  to  visit  the  course  m  Fine  Arts 
and  Architecture,  of  which  Professor  Norton  is,  as  I  have  said, 
the  head.  This  would  involve  no  active  labor  on  your  part 
other  than  a  visit  to  Boston  and  Cambridge  during  the  present 
academic  year. 

As  the  time  approached  for  a  meeting  of  the  Committee, 
Professor  Norton  arranged  a  dinner  at  "Shady  Hill,"  on  the 
24th  of  March,  1905.  The  other  members  of  the  Committee 
were  Frank  D.  Millet,  Francis  Bartlett,  S.  D.  Warren,  and 
Edward  Robinson,^  of  Boston.  Mr.  Norton  stated  that  the 
chief  duty  of  the  Committee  was  to  attempt  to  improve  the 
system  of  building  —  a  system  which  had  resulted  in  practical 
chaos.  The  preparation  of  the  report  fell  to  Mr.  Burnham  and 
Mr.  Millet.  Mr.  Millet  ventured  to  say  that  in  the  prepara- 
tion of  the  report  they  should  state  the  case  as  frankly  and  as 
directly  as  they  could,  even  if  they  might  be  charged  with 
brusqueness  approaching  brutality.  "They  need  to  have  a 
lesson  read  them;  they  deserve  a  hit  straight  from  the  shoulder 

«  Francis  Bartlett,  of  the  class  of  1862;  Samuel  D.  Warren,  of  the  class 
of  1875;  and  Edward  Robinson,  of  the  class  of  1879,  then  director  of  the 
Boston  Museum  of  Fine  Arts;  since  1910  director  of  the  Metropolitan 
Museum  of  Art,  New  York  City. 


THE  BURNHAM  REPORT  249 

—  that's  the  only  thing  that  will  touch  them  at  all."  Both 
Mr.  Burnham  and  Mr.  Millet  prepared  reports.  On  April  24, 
Mr.  Millet  sent  his  draft  to  Mr.  Burnham,  saying:  "You  will 
see  mine  is  quite  different  from  yours  and  more  brutal.  Do 
with  it  what  you  like.  You  know  I  have  no  false  pride  and 
I  have  the  greatest  confidence  in  your  judgment." 

The  report,  signed  by  Burnham  and  Millet,  was  addressed  to 
Professor  Norton  and  is  as  follows : 

The  undersigned,  members  of  the  Committee  on  Fine  Arts 
and  Architecture,  after  visiting  Cambridge  and  examining  the 
buildings  and  grounds,  in  compUance  with  instructions  ac- 
companying their  appointment  by  the  Board  of  Overseers,  beg 
to  submit  the  following  statement : 

Fifty  years  ago  Harvard  College  possessed  buildings  of  srni- 
ple  construction  and  unpretentious  character,  built  of  sunilar 
material,  of  the  same  style  and  color,  and  so  located  with  refer- 
ence to  one  another  as  to  present  the  appearance  of  a  well- 
ordered  group.  Harvard  College  now  possesses  many  buildings 
of  expensive  construction,  but  of  unrelated  architecture,  and 
so  located  with  reference  to  one  another  as  to  give  an  impres- 
sion of  uicongruity.  Lack  of  reciprocal  arrangement,  coupled 
with  absence  of  uniform  style,  color,  and  scale,  has  produced 
this  condition.  Each  of  the  buildings  erected  in  recent  years 
has  seemed  to  assert  itself  and  clash  with  its  neighbor,  so  that 
in  spite  of  the  architectural  excellence  of  certain  of  them  in- 
dividually considered  the  total  effect  is  disorderly. 

The  unfortunate  results  of  this  condition  are  obvious.  That 
the  college,  viewed  as  a  national  mstitution,  should  present  an 
exterior  out  of  harmony  with  its  high  functions  is  unfitting; 
that  the  college,  viewed  in  its  more  intimate  relation,  should 
leave  in  the  minds  of  its  graduates  a  memory  of  inharmonious 
surroundings,  is  more  regrettable;  yet  even  these  drawbacks 
are  small  compared  with  the  positive  disorderly  and  lasting  in- 
fluence exerted  by  such  surroundings  on  the  undergraduate 
mind  in  its  most  formative  period.   In  the  regular  ordering  of 


250  THE  HARVARD  YARD 

the  intellectual  life  of  its  students,  in  the  methodical  grouping 
of  the  collections  contained  in  its  museums  and  libraries,  the 
university  shows  its  belief  that  sound  teaching  rests  on  order 
and  system.  But  should  not  the  definite  work  of  the  lecture 
room,  the  museum,  and  laboratory  be  supplemented  by  proper 
material  environment?  In  the  upbuilding  in  the  minds  of  its 
students  of  those  ideals  for  which  the  university  desires  to 
stand  w^ho  can  overestimate  the  value  of  beautiful  surround- 
ings, silently  but  surely  instilling  their  lesson  of  good  order? 
If  order  and  system  are  requisite  in  intellectual  work,  are  they 
not  equally  so  in  those  material  conditions  amidst  which  the 
work  is  done?  It  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  while  only  cer- 
tain of  the  students  enter  deeply  enough  into  the  intellectual 
life  of  the  university  to  reap  the  full  benefit  of  its  training,  yet 
all  of  them,  by  the  mere  fact  of  their  residence  in  Cambridge, 
are  subjected  to  the  insistent  teaching  of  their  material  en- 
vironment. The  one  perv^asive  influence,  in  short,  that  is  com- 
mon to  the  lives  of  all  Harvard  men  is  that  of  the  outward 
aspect  of  the  university. 

That  the  condition  outlined  above  has  arisen  in  spite  of  the 
employment  by  the  university  of  able  and  experienced  archi- 
tects is  proof  enough  that  no  good  results  can  be  achieved 
through  building  operations  uncontrolled  by  a  general  plan. 
Beautiful  buildings,  if  inharmonious,  will  never  constitute  a 
beautiful  group;  and  no  beauty  of  general  effect  will  result  from 
the  casual  work  of  architects  separately  employed  in  the  design 
of  buildings  bearing  no  fixed  relation  to  one  another  in  a  general 
scheme.  Even  a  well-meant  efTort  on  the  part  of  a  thoughtful 
architect  to  follow  a  plan  of  his  own  devising  for  a  part  of  the 
general  scheme,  will  fail  through  the  employment  of  his  suc- 
cessor. 

Lack  of  order  in  our  American  cities  and  universities  has 
been  the  rule.  With  a  few  notable  exceptions,  such  as  the  city 
of  Washington  and  the  University  of  Virginia,  all  of  them  have 
developed  the  evils  to  be  expected  from  the  lack  of  a  systematic 
plan  and  unlil  very  recently  there  has  been  no  sign  of  better 
things.  However,  the  last  decades  of  the  nineteenth  century 


<  - 

a  ■- 

H  = 

^  -^ 

IS  » 

S  a 


a  "2 

E     O 


A  PLAN  NEEDED  251 

have  made  possible  a  broader  education  in  America,  of  which 
one  of  the  most  notable  indications  is  a  desire  for  good  order 
which  has  recently  expressed  itself  in  a  definite  movement  to- 
ward the  methodical  grouping  of  public  buildings  in  connec- 
tion with  good  settings.  Among  universities  the  Johns  Hop- 
kins, Chicago,  Columbia,  and  Stanford  have  comprehensive 
plans  for  organic  growth.  Among  cities  Cleveland,  New  York, 
San  Francisco,  and  Washington  have  plans  providing  for  im- 
mediate improvements  as  well  as  future  development.  Each  of 
these  universities  and  cities  may  thus  hope,  in  the  course  of 
time,  to  possess  the  higher  beauty  and  convenience  of  well- 
organized  grouping.  The  desire  for  a  beautiful  and  practical 
arrangement  has  made  itself  felt  as  a  governmental  necessity 
at  the  capital,  where  the  President  has  entered  actively  into 
the  work.  Should  not  Harvard  University  foster  this  move- 
ment by  its  own  example? 

The  creation  of  new  buildings  and  settings  worthy  to  stand 
as  examples  of  consistent  architecture  is  now  made  possible 
through  the  recent  acquisition  by  the  university  of  large  tracts 
of  land  on  both  sides  of  the  Charles  River.  Existing  conditions 
in  the  Yard  and  adjacent  territory,  while  more  difficult  to 
treat,  are  yet  susceptible  of  much  improvement  at  compara- 
tively small  cost. 

The  undersigned,  therefore,  believing  that  improvement 
does  not  come  except  as  the  result  of  a  design  worked  out 
logically  in  obedience  to  an  initial  governing  plan,  have  the 
honor  to  recommend  that  such  a  plan  be  made  and  adopted  by 
the  university. 

April  27.  1905 

The  reports  seem  to  have  produced  the  effect  on  the  Over- 
seers counted  on  by  Mr.  Adams,  who,  in  a  letter,  dated  June 
14,  1905,  to  Mr.  Millet,  says: 

The  reports  were  read  in  a  very  effective  manner  before  the 
Board  of  Overseers  by  Professor  Norton  at  the  last  meeting  of 
the  Board  and  listened  to  with  an  attention  which  was  impres- 


252  THE  HARVARD  YARD 

sive.  They  evidently  went  home.  They  were  ordered  to  be 
printed  at  once  and  Professor  Norton  yesterday  told  me  that 
he  had  corrected  the  proof-sheets.  They  have  not  yet  been  cir- 
culated among  the  Overseers. 

I  would  like  very  much  to  see  you  and  Bumham  on  this  sub- 
ject. When  you  come  on  here  next  with  him,  you  must  arrange 
both  of  you  to  dine  and  pass  a  night  with  me.  The  fact  is  Nor- 
ton is  now  engaged  in  what  is  for  him  the  work  of  a  lifetime; 
that  is,  he  is  trying  to  repair  the  abnost  irreparable  damage 
which  has  been  done  to  Harvard  in  an  architectural  way  within 
the  last  forty  years.  The  most  that  can  now  be  done  is  to  start 
the  work  of  reform.  It  will  occupy  at  least  a  century  and  a 
half.  In  the  first  place,  however,  the  foundations  have  got  to  be 
laid,  and  they  must  be  laid  deep  down. 

As  you  and  Bumham  intimate  in  your  two  reports,  the 
building  results  at  Harvard  during  the  last  forty  to  sixty  years 
amount  to  nothing  more  nor  less  than  an  architectural  crazy- 
quilt.  It  is  a  disgrace ;  and  I  imagine  that  Eliot's  long  admin- 
istration will  hereafter  be  judged  by  it.  We  have  had  several 
debates  on  the  subject  in  the  Board  of  Overseers  and  not  one 
word  has  been  said  in  defence  of  what  has  been  done.  Never- 
theless, further  abominations  have  since  been  perpetrated  and 
yet  others  are  now  in  contemplation.  These,  Norton  is  trying 
to  influence  and  arrest;  and  you  and  Burnham  are  his  agents  — 
the  prophets  of  the  new  dispensation!  An  elaborate  report  of 
the  most  aggressive  character  would  now  be  of  almost  inesti- 
mable value.  Do  not,  therefore,  for  a  moment  suppose  that 
your  work  is  inefTective  or  otherwise  than  fruitful  of  results. 
It  is  educational  and  elementary,  but  none  the  less  necessary. 

Mr.  Millet's  separate  report  took  the  form  of  a  letter  to  Mr. 
Norton.  Being  himself  a  graduate  of  Harvard,  Mr.  Millet  was 
under  no  restraints  such  as  those  which  Mr.  Burnham  felt 
rested  upon  him  as  the  holder  of  an  honorary  degree.  He  was 
ready  to  be  plain,  but  impersonally  so.  In  his  letter  to  Mr. 
Norton,  Mr.  Millet  said: 


THE  MILLET  REPORT  253 

We,  who  have  been  out  of  college  some  years,  always  think  of 
Harvard  as  the  group  of  simple  brick  structures,  beginning 
with  Dane  Hall,  and  ending  with  Holworthy,  and  with  Uni- 
versity Hall  across  the  Yard  as  the  focus  of  a  partly  completed 
composition.  These  buildings  are,  to  the  public,  exactly  what 
they  are  to  us  —  the  real  Harvard.  They  were  designed  with 
taste  and  were  located  in  accordance  with  a  plan  which  evi- 
dently contemplated  the  future  development  of  the  group  on 
orderly  lines.  Within  the  last  few  decades  the  growth  of  the 
university  has  been  so  rapid,  and  the  preoccupation  with  the 
immediate  necessities  and  the  practical  questions  has  been  so 
great,  that  all  considerations  of  order,  system,  and  plan  have 
been  ignored. 

From  the  orderly  beginnings  in  the  Yard  a  disorder  has 
spread  and  straggled  in  every  direction,  until  the  buildings, 
most  of  them  representing  ephemeral  fashions  in  architecture, 
suggest  in  grouping  and  in  detail  the  competitions  of  conomer- 
cial  enterprises.  They  distort  the  vision  and  distract  the  mind, 
and  some  of  them  are  ill-adapted  to  the  uses  for  which  they 
w-ere  intended.  A  stroll  across  the  Yard  is  an  object  lesson  in 
architectural  discord. 

While  I  believe  that  something  could  be  done  to  rectify  the 
mistakes  of  the  past,  I  am  sure  the  future  development  is  a  more 
important  problem.  This  does  not  now  present  great  difficul- 
ties. 

The  imiversity  expansion  will  doubtless  be  to  the  south;  to 
the  river  and  across  it.  This  extension  of  university  grounds,  if 
properly  carried  out,  will,  by  the  force  of  a  logical  design,  bring 
back  to  the  university  what  it  has  lost,  and  establish  for  all  time 
its  high  position  in  art  as  well  as  in  education. 

The  natural  focus  of  this  extension  is  the  library,  which,  if  it 
be  rebuilt  and  properly  located,  will  dominate,  as  it  ought  to 
dominate,  by  its  character  and  its  position,  the  whole  composi- 
tion. The  slope  of  the  land  to  the  river-bank,  and  the  broad 
open  plain  beyond,  with  its  background  of  distant  hills,  offers 
a  wide  area  particularly  suggestive  of  monumental  treatment, 
admitting  of  practically  unlimited  extension.  Such  a  develop- 


254  THE  HARVARD  YARD 

ment  will  carry  out  on  large  lines  the  original  intentions  of  the 
founders  of  the  university;  it  will  be  of  great  practical  advan- 
tage in  the  work  of  the  university,  establishing  a  centre  of  ac- 
tivity and  interest;  it  will  be  a  good  investment  because  public 
taste  is  rapidly  improving  and  w^ealth  will  surely  flow  to  an  in- 
stitution which  shows  a  purpose  to  meet  the  public  demand  for 
the  best  there  is  in  art. 

If  the  university  recognizes  the  value  of  an  orderly  arrange- 
ment of  its  buildings  in  a  manner  which  shall  give  the  impres- 
sion of  a  great  institution  of  learning,  it  will  adopt  a  course 
which  has  been  thoroughly  tested  and  found  efTective  in  vari- 
ous cities  of  this  country,  and  which  has  long  been  employed 
abroad.  A  commission  of  experts  should  be  appointed  to  decide 
on  all  questions  of  taste,  and  their  decision  on  these  points 
should  be  final.  This  comjnission  should  be  instructed  to  select 
a  plan  to  provide  for  immediate  development  strictly  in  the 
direction  of  future  accomplishment  of  a  consistent  and  orderly 
scheme.  The  character  of  the  buildings  recently  erected,  or 
now  in  process  of  erection,  is  a  cogent  reason  for  the  immediate 
appointment  of  such  a  conmiission. 

It  is  now  fifteen  years  since  these  reports  were  submitted, 
and  during  this  period  matters  have  gone  on  from  bad  to 
worse.  There  is  still  no  plan,  and  no  efTective  feeling  for  one, 
although  the  Harvard  departments  of  architecture  and  land- 
scape architecture  are  leading  influences  in  the  promotion  of 
city  planning  throughout  the  country  and  in  training  the  men 
who  are  domg  the  work  elsewhere.  The  disorder  noted  by  Mr. 
Burnham  and  Mr.  Millet  has  been  multipUed  by  the  erection 
of  an  immense  library,  which  throws  out  of  scale  all  other 
buildmgs  in  the  Yard.  With  unconscious  irony  Frank  Millet's 
friends  have  placed  a  small  bronze  bust  of  him  in  one  of  the 
vast  spaces  of  this  building,  —  a  voice  crying  in  the  wilderness, 
as  yet.  Excellent  as  is  the  group  of  freslmian  dormitories,  still 


THE  NATIONAL  MUSEUM  255 

this  group  is  unrelated  to  the  Yard.  In  his  day  Charles  McKim 
put  forth  his  best  endeavors  to  bring  the  university  back  to 
colonial  "bricks  and  mortar";  but  he  was  unable  to  accom- 
plish a  general  plan  for  the  future  development  of  his  alma 
mater.  With  the  death  of  the  men  who  have  felt  the  necessity 
for  a  logical  and  harmonious  development  of  the  university  on 
its  physical  side,  Harvard  now  stands  almost  alone  among  in- 
stitutions of  learning  in  adhering  to  the  practice  of  the  Ameri- 
can dark  ages  by  continuing  to  build  without  either  a  plan  or 
the  sense  of  the  need  of  a  plan. 
WiUiam  R.  Mead  wrote  to  Burnham,  September  5,  1905: 

McKim  has  had  a  temporary  knock-out,  the  result  of  hard 
and  continuous  work  and  interest  in  many  things  outside 
of  his  ofTice.  I  saw  him  on  Saturday  at  Narragansett  Pier, 
where  he  is  resting,  and  his  doctor  assured  me  that  it  is  only 
temporary,  and  that  he  will  be  about  again  in  a  few  days,  al- 
though we  intend  to  send  him  off  on  a  long  vacation  immedi- 
ately on  his  return.  Meantime,  one  of  the  things  that  worries 
him  is  the  design  for  the  National  Museum. 

The  difficulty  arose  over  the  change  in  design  from  the 
French  to  the  classic  style,  which  was  finally  accomplished  by 
the  cooperation  of  the  architects,  Hornblower  &  Marshall, 
with  Burnham  and  McKim;  but  the  quadrilateral  correspond- 
ence among  the  Washington  architects  and  the  superintend- 
ent, Bernard  R.  Green,  and  Burnham  in  Chicago  and  McKim 
in  New  York  and  elsewhere  did  not  conduce  to  good  temper, 

A  week  later  Mead  wrote: 

My  dear  Burnham:  McKim  is  getting  along  very  well, 
but  we  do  not  intend  to  let  him  come  back  to  the  office  for  real 
work  until  he  has  had  a  proper  vacation.  He  expects  to  come 
back  next  week  for  a  day  or  two,  and  about  the  first  of  October 


256  A  DIP  INTO  THE  WILDERNESS 

will  go  off  somewhere  for  some  shooting.  He  has  always 
longed  for  some  prairie-chicken  shooting,  and  thinks  you  may 
know  where  it  could  be  had  to  advantage.  If  you  could  put  hrni 
in  the  way  of  it  you  would  be  doing  him  a  lasting  benefit.  As  he 
explained  to  me,  he  should  want  to  find  some  man  who  could 
provide  the  dogs.  Dr.  Hitchcock,  who  is  not  only  his  physi- 
cian, but  his  lifelong  friend,  and  who  has  had  a  hard  summer's 
work  at  Narragansett  Pier,  would  go  off  with  him  for  a  rest, 
and  it  would  be  an  ideal  combination.  McKim  thinks  you  have 
had  experience  in  this  line  and  can  suggest  something  which 
would  be  agreeable. 

I  have  written  McKim  that  you  were  off  in  San  Francisco, 
but  that  you  would  return  so  as  to  be  in  New  York  the  28th 
to  see  your  daughter  oil.'  He  will,  likely,  be  here  at  that  time, 
but  if  he  should  not  I  shall  be  and  hope  you  will  give  us  a  call. 

On  October  7  a  party  consisting  of  John  Cowles,  McKim 
and  Dr.  Hitchcock,  Fred  Coleman  and  Burnham  arrived  at 
the  little  town  of  Cable  in  Wisconsin,  where  they  were  met  by 
George  Buchanan  and  his  dogs.  Early  next  morning  the  party 
embarked  on  four  wagons  for  Crescent  Camp,  arriving  about 
dark  and  after  dinner  going  to  bed  in  the  open  air.  The  record 
of  the  trip  is  found  in  two  letters  wTitten  by  Burnham  to 
Charles  Moore : 

October  17,  1905 
Your  favor  of  the  6th  came  during  my  absence  in  the  woods. 
McKim  turned  toward  me  in  his  recent  nervous  trouble  and 
we  have  been  off  together,  taking  Dr.  Hitchcock,  McKim's 
friend  and  physician.  Our  whole  party,  including  servants, 
being  nine  men,  has  been  in  the  woods  about  fifty  miles  from 

»  Miss  Margaret  Burnham  sailed  for  Europe  September  28,  whither  her 
brother  Hubert  had  preceded  her  on  July  15,  to  enter  the  ficole  des  Beaux 
Arts.  Daniel  H.  Burnham,  Jr.,  had  just  entered  Harvard.  After  seeing 
Margaret  off,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Burnham  went  to  South  Yarmouth,  Massachu- 
setts, to  visit  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Albert  Wells  at  their  summer  home. 


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DOCTOR  OF  LAWS  257 

Ashland,  Wisconsin,  for  ten  days.  I  came  in  this  morning. 
McKim  will  arrive  Thursday  morning.  He  will  probably  stay 
with  me  two  or  three  days  before  going  East.  He  is  in  very 
much  better  shape  since  he  came  out.  We  have  slept  in  an 
open  tent  with  a  log  fire  at  the  end,  having  for  beds  the  boughs 
of  the  balsam  trees  covered  with  mattresses.  We  have  breathed 
the  northern,  frosty  night  air  of  October  with  very  great  bene- 
fit to  ourselves. 

October  23, 1905 

McKim  has  been  with  me  about  three  weeks,  leaving  my 
house  last  Saturday  night.  We  have  not  gone  deeply  into 
topics  interesting  to  us  both,  because  he  was  not  in  a  state  of 
health  to  follow  them,  but  we  have  had  the  happiest  time  of 
our  lives,  at  any  rate  of  mine,  and  I  hope  also  of  his,  and  he  has 
gone  home  much  refreshed.  He  is  not  strong  and  it  will  take 
many  months  of  good  sleeping  and  freedom  from  care  to  bring 
him  around  to  his  normal  state.  I  am  expecting  to  see  some- 
thing of  him  later.  He  is  not  in  good  enough  form  to  take  up 
your  matter  at  the  present  time.^  It  will  have  to  be  deferred. 

On  October  18  Burnham  attended  the  installation  of  Presi- 
dent James  at  the  University  of  Illinois,  on  which  occasion  he 
received  the  degree  of  Doctor  of  Laws.  The  next  day  he  re- 
turned to  find  that  McKim  and  Dr.  Hitchcock  had  come  out  of 
the  woods  and  were  ready  for  three  days  of  goK. 

From  the  train  McKim  wTote: 

Dear  Dan:  When  I  think  back  over  the  past  two  weeks  and 
all  that  you  have  done  to  set  me  on  my  feet  I  find  it  as  hard  to 

»  A  plan  for  the  improvement  of  Detroit,  Michigan.  In  1911  the  matter 
was  again  taken  up  with  Mr.  Burnham,  who  wrote:  "I  am  charmed  with 
your  letter  in  regard  to  the  Island  in  the  River.  The  place  will  surely  speak 
to  us.  We  will  dream  and  the  vision  will  be  the  thing  that  should  be  done. 
Before  going  there  with  others  I  would  like  to  spend  a  day  on  the  spot  with 
you  alone.  If  you  do  want  me,  I  am  more  than  ready."  Mr.  Burnham 
made  one  visit  in  connection  with  the  Detroit  plan.  After  his  death  the 
work  was  taken  up  by  Edward  H.  Bennett.  At  the  time  Mr.  Moore  was 
chairman  of  the  Detroit  City  Plan  and  Improvement  Commission. 


258  A  DIP  INTO  THE  WILDERNESS 

put  down  what  I  feel  of  eternal  obligation  to  you  as  to  speak 
it  in  words. 

What  gives  me  most  happiness  is  the  reflection  that  fifteen 
years  of  cooperation  in  the  several  campaigns  in  which  we  have 
both  been  so  deeply  interested  and  always  united  has  made 
you  feel  that  my  existence  is  still  of  some  consequence  to  you. 

How  proud  I  am  of  this  last  evidence  of  your  confidence  and 
affection  I  cannot  tell  you.  I  can  only  assure  you  of  my  ap- 
preciation and  reciprocation  to  the  full  length  of  my  mortal 
tether.  It  is  hard  to  use  my  head,  and  you  will  have  to  read 
between  the  lines.  There  will  be  much  to  tell  our  friends  in 
the  East  of  the  princely  hospitality  you  extended  to  us.  We 
talk  of  it  constantly  —  to  the  smallest  details. 

Camp  Burnham  on  the  lake  was  indeed  a  rounded  experi- 
ence. I  shall  probably  never  see  it  again,  but  I  hope  that 
Camp  Burnham  in  Evanston  may  take  up  its  headquarters 
at  9  E.  35th  St.  early  and  often  henceforth.  I  have  an  empty 
house  and  can  offer  you  and  yours  little  beside  a  first  class 
grand  piano  and  four  Keiths,  unless  it  be  a  "wee  bit  o  por- 
ridge." 

With  warm  remembrances  to  your  sister  and  regrets  to  have 
missed  Mrs.  Burnham, 

Yours  faithfully 

Charles  F.  McKim 

Christmas  was  spent  at  home ;  in  the  morning  exercises  with 
Carver,  followed  by  a  session  with  the  dentist.  Mrs.  Burn- 
ham was  ill  all  day,  but  appeared  at  dinner,  with  the  Fullers, 
Mrs.  Townsend,  the  Sidney  Burnets,  and  the  Woodyatts.  Dr. 
Fuller  brought  his  lantern  and  Burnham  showed  pictures  of  the 
Manila,  Baguio,  and  San  Francisco  plans.  The  year  closed  with 
a  conference  with  Paul  Morton  on  the  New  York  Equitable 
Life  building  plans. 

Meantime,  McKim's  illness  was  progressing  in  spite  of  his 
own  hopefuhiess,  as  appears  from  this  letter: 


ILLNESS  OF  McKIM  259 

Pallachucolo  Gun  Club,  Garnett,  S.C. 

December  17,  1905 

My  dear  Daniel:  While  I  have  telegraphed  and  written 
you  one  or  two  apologies  for  letters  since  we  parted,  I  feel 
conscience-stricken  to  think  that  your  letter  of  November 
15th,  enclosing  the  photographs,  has  never  been  adequately 
answered.  You  will  have  to  ascribe  it  to  the  continuance  of 
the  old  conditions  now  happily  disappearing,  so  that  I  am  able 
to  take  up  my  correspondence  this  week  for  the  first  time.  Our 
friend  Hitchcock,  who  still  sticks  to  the  illusion  that  he  can 
cure  me  of  my  infirmities,  has  come  do\\Ti  to  Garnett  with  that 
object  chiefly  in  view. 

Incidentally  he  is  destroying  too  many  of  our  quail  and  I  not 
enough,  but  after  a  week  made  up  of  three  half-days  and  three 
whole  days  in  the  saddle,  I  feel  sufficiently  encouraged  to  hope 
that  in  one  of  those  remaining  I  shall  "wipe  his  eye"  and  learn 
to  sleep  without  medicine. 

I  have  gained  steadily  and  enjoyed  a  great  deal,  but  nothing 
as  much  as  the  perusal  of  your  letter  on  the  subject  of  our 
friend  Cowles.  Both  Hitchcock  and  I  have  shouted  over  it  as  a 
master  effort.  That  alone  would  make  up  for  the  fifty  miles  of 
corduroy  road. 

By  the  way,  at  your  suggestion,  I  sent  this  mighty  Nimrod 
one  dozen  bottles  of  fine  old  whiskey  to  the  address  printed  on 
the  card  which  he  gave  me,  but  have  not  yet  heard  from  him. 
May  the  consignment  inspire  him  with  still  broader  views  as  to 
his  paradise  of  gain  in  Northern  Wisconsin.  Barring  him  out 
of  the  experience,  we  constantly  look  back  to  it  as  a  rare  pleas- 
ure in  every  way,  thanks  to  you.  For  me  it  turned  the  corner, 
and  the  doctor,  who  was  out  of  order,  came  here  much  better 
for  it. 

Though  your  mantle  (sent  by  Fred)  can  never  descend  to 
my  shoulders  in  any  proper  sense,  its  amplitude  reflects  the 
extent  of  your  hospitahty  and  makes  my  golf  cape  "a  wee  bit- 
of-porridge."  After  another  week  here  we  expect  to  return  in 
time  for  Christmas,  and  I  depend  on  you  to  pass  your  next 
visit  in  New  York  under  my  roof. 


260  A  DIP  INTO  THE  WILDERNESS 

Dr.  Hitchcock  sends  his  best  regards. 
I  telegraphed  you  this  morning  with  regard  to  the  Central 
Pavilion  of  the  Museum,  to  determine  that  problem  with 
Green  according  to  your  best  judgment. 

With  many  messages  to  your  family  and  best  wishes  for  the 
New  Year, 

Yours  faithfully 

C.  F.  McKiM 

The  next  time  I  will  try  to  WTite  in  my  own  hand.  I  have 
been  dictating  all  the  morning  and  my  head  is  tired. 


END  OF  VOLUME  I 


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